This will make you look like a woodworking master! (Sliding Dovetail Tutorial)

[@knowsittobetrue8566]

This was a good video for me to see how much of a novice I am. Because I got lost halfway through and the more it went on the more confused I got. I'm more of a visual learner anyhow. One day I hope to be able to come back and completely understand what's being said in the vid.

[@rentonchappell5966]

Only my second yt comment ever but I felt compelled to express my gratitude James. This video is great because of your optimistic encouragement. Previously I would probably not have attempted this. I don't know what it is but your tone and delivery just inspire confidence. Thanks!

[@barthuijpen592]

thats beautiful

[@scotttovey]

Two things. If you need to move the edge guide. clamp a piece of square stock behind it first. Then, you can use a spacer to insure you move the edge guide the correct amount, and back again for repeatable cuts. Tear outs should be an easy one, just clamp a similarly thick, square dowel that is long enough for the board you are cutting the dovetails in. If you are making multiple boards with the same cuts, the square dowel will become a template to set up any subsequent boards giving you repeatability.

[@paulvandriel2344]

Nice tip, too.

[@befmx31]

Ditto Paul's comment. Especially the edge guide tip.

[@gleggett3817]

Alternatively one could locate the edge guide in place and clamp a spacer to its face. Route the first part of the joint, remove the spacer and route again. Depends on the availability of suitable spacers/shims though...

[@johnpreston2786]

@@paulvandriel2344 9

[@johnpreston2786]

Ready after you

[@rickreed123]

Tapered sliding dovetail is my favorite joint.

[@ipick4fun27]

I wish I watched this video before I start cutting some dovetails. I did not know about cutting it with a smaller straight bit 1st. So I did it in one go. I think I burnt out the bit and that was the 1st time using a brand new bit too. Live and learn.

[@boomerangfreak]

I just used your guide here to successfully cut some long sliding dovetails. I'm using them as drawer slides for router bit storage on my router table. Purposefully made them a tad loose. This video was of great help as I wasn't sure where to start. Thanks!

[@TaylorTheOtter]

Very nice! A shouldered tapered sliding dovetail is one of the few wood joints that can be water tight and it was used in early european bathtubs. The watertightness comes from the fact that the sliding piece swells up with moisture so it is essentially self sealing.

[@christopherhinterman9532]

Great video as always, James. I just finished a simple table for my church's children's ministry and used sliding dovetail joinery throughout. It was so easy and looks amazing. I used a 3/8" dovetail for the mortise and tenon joints on the skirt and then switched to a 1/2" for joining the 2 x 2 supports on the legs. I did cheat the whole process by having an Incra Fence and Jessem router lift on my router table. With that set up it was quick and simple to get really tight connections. Can't believe it took me so long to discover this, but will certainly do it again! Thanks for videos. You have been one of my best mentors.

[@AlMai222]

Great points. I think it should be mentioned also that if you want to prevent tear out, and have ALL of your dovetails nicely exposed (not just the front like said in the video) just clamp a thin small piece of stock at the end of where your router bit will exit on the piece of wood you are dovetailing. The router will pass through the end of your project wood and will tear out the random piece of stock instead

[@prspastor]

Thank you James. What an excellent tutorial. I’ll use this when I build our TV and media center later this year. I appreciate your work as you’ve inspired a lot of confidence in me as I’ve learned the craft.

[@MichaelDreksler]

That was great - James did a really good job of making the dovetail more approachable. I am sure we have all had dovetail disasters that put us off using them for ages. I know I have. Thank you KZbin album for suggesting this older episode!

[@paulwestlake4278]

Re tearout at the end of the cut... a stopped dovetail would both eliminate the tearout and give a cleaner line at the front I think. I used this to make some towel rail fittings with hidden attachment scews just last week. A nice little video though James. Thanks.

[@jradwick2]

Thanks for that totroral, I needed your expertise I'm planning a shaker shelf with dove tail joinery

[@MrEyesof9]

You and Paul sellers are my woodworking heros! The fact you are a third (or were it 4th?) generation woodworker is PROOF all were not create equal. In fact you are a creature of WW... or, as I like to say dubaya dubaya privileged. Seriously though thank you for sharing you time, knowledge and yourself. There isn’t enough said about those who only look to ADD to, and positively enhance others lives, ❤️

[@cloudspinwoodworks4813]

Very helpful! I’m going to use shouldered dovetails on my next set of chairs.

[@jeanginomiele7690]

You’re such a good teacher, James. I’ve learned so much from you. Thank you! 🙏🏼👍

[@jimaspinii7579]

This is a great approach. This is the first time I’ve watched a video on making these and went away wanting to try it!

[@timmorse8146]

I make guitar stands and need a strong joint at the head stock. The head stock is where the guitar hangs with a dove tail joint, connecting to the upright. I used the dove tail there to keep the stock nail and screw free. I cut tail with a tenoning jig on the upright to repeat consistent depth and thickness. The head stock is slot is cut before I shape the piece. The advantage using the tenoning jig is you never have to adjust the cutter, since the tail and slot are a consistent depth on the router table.

[@PhoenixRevealed]

If you need to cut wider dovetail slots without moving your fence for a second cut you can replace your router base plate with an eccentric rectangular one. Each of the four edges is at a slightly different distance from the center of the bit. All you need to do is make your first pass with the baseplate edge closest to the bit, then rotate the router to one of the other baseplate edges with the correct additional spacing to expand your dovetail to the correct width. If your dovetail needs to be REALLY wide you can even use all four edges of your eccentric baseplate in sequence, with each rotation and pass widening the cut a specific amount from the previous pass, say 1/4". If you've only got a couple of slots to cut it probably isn't worth the time to make the base, but if you have more than a few this method can save a lot of time moving your fence incrementally.

[@billybobjoe198]

Or set your fence for the close cut and just add to the face of the fence to space it off for the far cut.

[@federicochini5093]

Martin Green wonderful idea thank you!!!

[@IAmKyleBrown]

The tapering makes so much sense and looks easy enough with your edge guide jig. I did a set of ten drawers with sliding dovetails. The 6 inch drawers were tight, but the 12 inch ones were a nightmare to assemble.

[@rickreed123]

I had three to make with one router, so I set up all the edge guides, cut the dados,changed bit to dovetail bit, then cut the dovetail sockets.

[@Charlesredporsche]

You've turned into a favorite site of mine for woodworking.

[@barryirby8609]

When you assemble the joint, put the glue on and then slide it together fairly quickly. If it seizes up on you, use a bar clamp to pull it the rest of the way. The glue acts as a lubricant under gentle pressure, but really resists hammer blows. Thanks for a wonderful video.

[@thomasdickson35]

Dont't to forget to only gleaux the first bit of the joint, it will self-lube without squeeze out yet not get all clammy.

[@norm5785]

Thank you for sharing this joint with us, stay safe from Henrico County Virginia

[@paulvandriel2344]

James, great video! And all that in under 10 minutes. It makes you not only look like a woodworking master, also look like a master teacher and video maker. A little gem to keep. :-)

[@watermain48]

Thanks James. I think I'll be able to attempt this after another times watching the video.

[@jasondoust4935]

Thank you James! As always, your instruction is clear and comprehensive. I'm building a display shelf for our mid century modern fixer upper out of recovered 100 year old Australian Cedar door jambs (it was all logged out before I was born) and I think that this is the detail that will see the project doing justice to the timber. Can't wait to smell that stuff being worked again! (Of course, I'll go practice on some pine first...) :-)

[@patrickbink4617]

I just made a small project with dados. Then I saw this video. Wish it had been the other way around. Great video, James!

[@robertkb64]

Instead of moving your edge guide, get a second edge guide and lock it in place on the opposite side of the cut. Then you simply follow each edge guide after the other to get the appropriate width. This also helps if you’re making multiple slides and want them to be interchangeable as it ensures that each piece is cut at exactly the same point, keeping in mind you’ll also need additional fixed clamp points to ensure you’re placing each piece in the same spot. Useful trick I learned in metalworking to make lots of modular tooling for types of cuts them simply rearranging them for the given work at hand.

[@guynonesuch8485]

Superb video. Even Ron Davis should enjoy this one.

[@Otto-W]

I need to go back and watch your hinged router fence build, I'm sure it is a big help in laying out precise joints like the dovetails.

[@StumpyNubs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKeuZHeQnZdqpq8 :)

[@foreignercatracho]

You are a master man.

[@bobclifton8021]

Clear and Concise instructions. Thanks Stumpy.

[@jlh5995]

Hey James, thank for another great lesson on dovetail router joints.

[@CuriousCaine]

Great video! One thing that would have helped me would be if you had mentioned how far from the edge of a 3/4" drawer front the dovetail should be placed before it is so close to the edge that it weakens. I can reason that out for myself but I wonder if there's a rule of thumb?

[@optimistichorizon]

*I don't know why you don't have over a Million Subscribers?*

[@jzvetter]

Preach!

[@9and7]

He will don't worry.

[@mytoolworld]

No kittens!

[@JarlSeamus]

@@mytoolworld Or Bacon.....

[@maxwang2537]

Let me add one.

[@tooljunkie555]

Ironically I'm building a round single pedestal pub table and could definitely use that shoulder dovetail to connect the feet to the base.thanks for the info saved to one of my playlist

[@thomasdickson35]

I know he knows what's up but backing up a piece is worth mentioning (again). If you use a decent stripperoo you can trim it when changing bits/settings and she'll back you up for far longer than a Tinder date. For the most part.

[@rjtumble]

love it, I'm making a little bathroom cabinet out of some old rough barnwood. I'm going to give this a try, though the rough edges of the wood might make it more challenging. Also, who would skip part of a stumpy nubs video?

[@garyschmidt7320]

If the old barn wood is cupped, that could severely complicate sliding dovetails.

[@rjtumble]

Thanks, I'll check for that. I don't think they're cupped, they just have a very rough surface. Problem is they're painted and I like the aged "finish" they have, so I'm trying to do as little as possible to them. I may end up just doing butt joints or something simple to keep the look the way I want them.

[@wb_finewoodworking]

Very well done. I can now see me trying some sliding dovetails in an upcoming project. The tapered dovetail as you explained it isn’t as daunting as I thought it would be. Thanks.

[@chrisdiggs2237]

Great tip on the shouldered joint. :)

[@Yawles]

Thanks for educating me, again! I appreciate your style and delivery. Keep up your great work!

[@steveperkins1776]

This is the 3rd video of yours I have watched. Each one has been very informational, easy to understand, Clean, and just over all well done. I subscribed. Thank you for doing these Videos.

[@glenngoodale1709]

Your Videos are as always extremely informative and entertaining

[@TomKaren94]

James, at 3:00 I was thinking, "why doesn't he suggest using two routers?" Then, a minute later, you do. You're always one step ahead!!

[@roofermarc1]

I need to cut 20 of these sliding DT's in a project I'm doing and both boards are 2'' by 1 1/2''. I'm having a hard time setting this up. I'm gonna try to use my RAS with a dado blade to clean out the waste first then use my router table to cut the dovetails. The bit I have is huge, it's 1'' and 14 1/2 degrees. It's not looking to promising. Then the hard part is standing the small boards on end against the router table fence to cut those pieces

[@ΠαναγιώτηςΠαπάς-ε9ζ]

Excellent! So what you say about Dovetail joining of pieces for table top and glue. Also dovetail for the base.

[@rickreed123]

You could also use a backer piece of wood to manage tear out on exit.

[@jbb5470]

Thanks Stumpy. Another great tip and on the variations of this bit. Very helpful. I will use this on a project I am currently on, a bike stand.

[@foreignercatracho]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge

[@timpedzinski230]

This is a totally awesome video! Excellent comprehensive information to make me a better woodworker. Have your self a cold one my friend because you have earned it

[@pwhsbuild]

Woodworkers - giving mere mortals something to aspire to! Lol, great video!

[@dougguest6454]

Thanks for another great video. I'm a big fan of yours!

[@MarcRiedel]

Do you have any suggestions for how to make dovetails on pieces that are too long/unwieldy to run on the router table?

[@sinasdad2644]

Can you make a slightly loose sliding dovetail that is held in place with a removable wedge, often called a tusk?

[@UnicornMeat512]

Legend as always

[@PaulMichael1084]

I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS STUMPY NUBS

[@PaulMichael1084]

Thanks for liking this comment. It was left by my youngest son (8 years old), and seeing your like of it made him really happy. You are a Gent!

[@Umpire20NM]

Good job James. Thank you

[@brianlasch144]

Great informative video James, you are one of my favorite content providers on youtube. We haven't seen your dad in a while hope that Mustache Mike is doing well.

[@ArmyVet76]

awesome tutorial. This will definitely help me out. Thanks for sharing....

[@tomhoyer2313]

Check out Bill Hylton's videos about French or sliding dovetails. He uses 5/16 deep dove tails.

[@viscache1]

Power tools!? I find myself weak with aghast! Hardly a shell of the heartier, better looking laborer that oft haunts my shop!

[@nickdarbenzio1681]

I’m putting sliding dovetails to contain drawer on my daughter’s desk. Bottom of table is pretty flat but not as flat as top. That going to be ok? Maybe a shouldered sliding dovetail? Or do I need to totally flatten bottom? Thanks James!

[@HeavyTone66]

Stumpy, you mention using two routers, if you have one, use the dt bit.. whatabout using a dado plane, surely you have one in that collection behind you

[@johnslaughter5475]

Regarding using 2 routers: Don't they have to be the same make/model? Routers have different size base plates. Somewhere along the road I also heard that router bases are not necessarily perfectly round. It is necessary to make sure you always keep the same edge of the base against the guide. What do you think? Thanks on the video. I'll certainly give it a try.

[@patricktatten]

EXCELLENT VIDEO! I just subscribed, and thank you so much for the well-articulated information

[@joedance14]

Always enjoy your videos. Hope your hand is doing well, and you have a very Merry Christmas!

[@tylerkrug7719]

I love your videos, there awesome, I always learn something. You are a very knowledgeable guy. Great videos!

[@woodywood1951]

the dovetail obsession!

[@BlessedLaymanNC]

I'm "stronger, better looking and more versatile." :) Thanks!

[@rick91443]

Am going to watch this a couple times....and thanks...rr

[@Blueridgedog]

For tear out and for table saw marks, I have gotten in the habit of leaving things wide by 1/8th or so in order to have room for either hand planing down or a few passes through the joiner. The more I do, the more I just hate sanding and really want a plane finish.

[@738polarbear]

Great tutorial James . I truly am surprised at the lowish number of subscribers when you look at YOUR content compared to the CRAP out there. Keep it up .

[@chapbix12158]

To eliminate tear out on the back side, could we not also use a sacrificial backer piece at the exit point?

[@redrockcrf4663]

Been watching Ishitani, and he seems to use these to attach table tops. But to avoid tear out, he is using "blind" version, so he only routers so far along, and glues in a piece along the edge.

[@nightcatarts]

Thanks, very useful; especially the tapered info.

[@michaelgoddard1435]

noobie here, I have a wood draw slide that is toast and needs to be redone. From watching this it looks like a just need a dovetail bit to match the angle of the part attached to the drawer. Or is there a specific 'set' that I need to purchase so that it slides. Thanks in advance

[@crafts_avenue]

great video as usual.

[@jay-2556]

Hello and great video. I see this being a great addition to a cabinet shelf, what is your opinion or the consensus about using this type of joint for the front of a cabinet drawer? If its doable for some reason i can't picture it, in my mind a half blind would be more useful but i would like to incorporate it if possible. Thanks for the education!

[@johnlalko2735]

Awsome video! can't wait to try it out

[@fiwoodart]

Nice one. Keep them coming.

[@stretch757]

How tight is too tight for a sliding dovetail. I had to lightly wax the tongue part if the joint and tap patiently with a mallet. My concern was to slack and the joint will not be strong enough to keep the adjoining piece flat like a breadboard application. It the board is on without splitting, would it want to split while attached if it was too tight?

[@markschneider1366]

Great video as usual , well explained . Thank you !!!

[@emm_arr]

Another great one. Thank you.

[@TigerCarpenter]

I'm planning to run the shoulder sliding dovetail along the grain of the middle board of my table top. the purpose for that is to keep the table top from sagging = flat over time. is it ok to insert the dovetailed beam underneath the board, along the grain? I'm concerned about the long board splitting. I want to do this, to skip installing the rectangular frame under the table top, I just want that "invisible" single beam under the middle board = stiffener, to keep the top flat. the ends of the table will have bread boards. in most applications I can see the sliding dovetails running across the grain = perpendicular to the grain.

[@joeyleerobbins]

Thank you for this video it is extremely informative!

[@gabrieleg6384]

This video is awesome! Thanks

[@hazembata]

I dig it. BTW, why don't you have any furniture builds? I think you'd be great at that.

[@bowhunter7485]

Very informative, every word has it's exact meaning, you miss one of them and you screwed. Thank you

[@whosaidthat5236]

And here I cut my dovetails with saws and chisels. even though I do have router dovetail bits

[@paulfowler3416]

Very helpful, trhank you

[@vincentgranacher2034]

I understand moving the guide to create the sliding dovetail but am confused about only doing the movement to one side of the joint. When cutting the tail, how do you keep track of which side you are tapering on the board if you need the tail on both ends such as for a shelf on a book case?

[@StumpyNubs]

Do it on the back side. Move the edge guide away from the back end of the socket, and attach the shim near the back end of the tomgue.

[@iamchillydogg]

I've been trying to think of a way to machine cut a full blind mitered dovetail or box joint. Any thoughts?

[@andrebourque2165]

I can't believe I never noticed the outrageous number of pushsticks in the background.

[@rickreed123]

Another option is to make stopped sliding dovetail, where the dovetail section is only a few inches long.

[@chriscunicelli7070]

Great video, thanks

[@MartinMosman]

Another great video! Cheers!

[@benzampino5248]

I'm making bookshelves out of solid Cherry and I want to use sliding dovetails to connect the top to the sides. I have looked on Amazon for your favorite router bit to no avail. The wood is about 11/16 thick any suggestions? Also can I use a ¼" down spiral bit to make my first grove instead of a straight router bit? What is the recommended depth of the cut and the angle for the dovetail bit? All the shelves will be connected with a dado.

[@StumpyNubs]

You don't need an 11/16-inch wide dovetail bit. Just something narrower than the board's thickness. Perhaps 1/2-inch.

[@michellegatz7077]

Excellent

[@evashiker12]

How do you do the tongue if you don’t have a table router?