Thomann SP5500 Digital Piano Keyboard fix part 1

[@vasquezitosanchezito]

Wow this is going to be an interesting project! Well done Vio!

[@viocaia]

Hope so!

[@marios852]

I have the same piano. An error occurred once. When I press a piano key, the 4 next to it also sounds. There are 12 keys on the entire keyboard. Do you know what the problem could be?

[@viocaia]

These kinds of keys are prone to mechanical decay, the hammer's plastic are effectively rotten in time. It can be a problem like that... But you may check for any shorts on the keys sensors or cables, it's possible a screw to ruin the cables between keyboard and module.

[@antoniovilchesmartin9524]

Hello. I have taken out the hammers and I don't remember where each type of model goes. I identify which are the black and white keys. But not where they go because of the different weight. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank you so much.

[@viocaia]

I will make a small video soon...let you know.

[@antoniovilchesmartin9524]

Thank you so much

[@viocaia]

Here you are, let me know if any other questions kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKitaoWGbJh8js0

[@barbarai.8072]

Is there any chance to contact you via mail? Same problem same piano

[@viocaia]

@@barbarai.8072 [e-mail]

[@pvc988]

I have DP-85 and it has exactly the same problem. I also think that it was the grease that degraded the plastic. I contacted Thomann but they don't have these parts anymore so I need to make some myself. One of the hammers is curing right as I type :) I am using two-part polyurethane, since I think it was the original material. I've also made some 3D printed replacements. They work but PLA and ABS are too hard and rattle too much and my Ender 5 doesn't really like to print with TPU with required precision. So overmolding it is.

[@viocaia]

Molding it's the best way, I couldn't find a proper resin though so my hammers are kind of noisy, but I did it. So I'm sure you'll make it too. Let us know the progress.

[@pvc988]

@@viocaia I've installed that one replacement hammer I was talking about yesterday. I think two-part polyurethane (Shore A 70 hardness) is the material I am going to make all the replacements with. It sticks to painted metal perfecly and separates from silicone easily. Even that little clip thingy came out fine. If mistake is made, IPA can be used to soften and remove the material. The key is quiet and moves just as good as new.

[@viocaia]

@@pvc988 Nice you could find a proper material. I did my best with regular automotive repair resin... I believe your solution is much better. Keep on trying and let us know.

[@pvc988]

@@viocaia Hello, I have an update. I was upset by how long it takes for polyurethane to cure and decided to change the material. You won't believe what I used. Turns out that plain old hot melt glue was the perfect material I was looking for. Two part, 3D printed preform was needed to keep everything rigid and aligned. Then the actual form is just usual silicone. I pour some very hot glue in one part of the mold then position (slightly preheated) metal part of the hammer, apply some more glue on top and squeeze excess with the other half of the mold. It takes about 5 minutes per piece and comes out perfect almost everytime. You have to work fast because the glue sets quickly. There is also a little bit of cleanup of the part required but that's easily done with a scalpel. Ohh… and I modified that little clip for easier molding by removing those two little springy bits and replacing them by one larger in the middle.

[@kreicisJ]

Same as i have all hammers dead. Can i order them somewhere online?

[@viocaia]

Nowhere to order, but there are ways to solve it. I saw a somebody did a 3D printing...check the comments.