Live: Building the MPCNC! (2 - Z-Axis)

It's time - the MPCNC (Burly edition) is getting built!
In the daily livestreams, together we build the MPCNC step-by-step In the end, it will be a fully functional CNC multitool, but mostly a light-duty CNC router suitable for plastic, wood or even aluminum.
Parts list go.toms3d.org/mpcnc
V1 Engineering assembly instructions www.v1engineering.com/assembly/
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[@allted]

Thank you. That was actually pretty fun. Lots of positivity and lots of things to change and improve.

[@shaunwhiteley3544]

Ryan - V1 Engineering Inc Thanks Ryan for sharing the MPCNC, I love mine! Lowrider next 🙏😊. Cheers

[@allted]

@@shaunwhiteley3544 Awesome, thank you. Thank you for trying it out!

[@mattchumoore4214]

Ryan - V1 Engineering Inc oh how things have changed between you two

[@lylyluvda916]

Damn, I’m excited for this project.

[@RSteel517]

Ill be watching and saving this whole live feed series for when i start my MPCNC. I watched the lowrider build by TeachingTech and am now excited to watch Tom build the normal MPCNC. Thanks V1 Engineering for putting this out into the world!

[@JohnOCFII]

I’m enjoying the build. Great that Ryan is here to watch and learn and assist. I love how you casually throw in fantastic info about load on bearings, etc. I appreciate the education.

[@neilgower2558]

Every day a school day that what I love about KZbin.... nice build keep it coming

[@yassinelessawy6101]

A this old tony fan right here😌.

[@artmcnamera7984]

Just a trick from the construction site: Instead of drilling holes into stainless tubing, use a round file and with some long and strong strokes (don't go too fast) you get perfect and nicely smoothed holes exactly where you want them. You also save the step of flattening and center punching. Stainless is actually rather soft, but fast cutting tools will easily harden it right where you want to cut. And while the rest is still soft you kinda get like a hardened washer around your drill bit embedded in softer material which acts like spiral spring choking on your drill bit.

[@jerbear7952]

There more I learn, the more I realize I have a long way to go. Thanks for the tip 😊

[@almostanengineer]

That comment on the colour scheme, there's nothing wrong with the colour scheme, it reminds me of the late 80's, early 90's, especially with clothing :D

[@olegvelichko1659]

At 1:03:05 you say “You buy cheap, you buy twice.” I can’t remember the proper German saying, but it pretty much works in Russian. We say “The stingy one pays twice.” Love your channel, Thomas! Thanks for the great content!!!

[@lloydrmc]

I suggest you try Wiha bits the next time you're forced to use Phillips screws.

[@kleingarrett55]

Great call on the DC spindel, wish I had done that! The ac DeWalt router mpcnc was designed around is pretty loud. Love the adaptability if the system though.

[@lukasdon0007]

Ahh the joy of handdrilling stainless.

[@michaeloxlong]

Tip for drilling into stainless steel: low speed, high pressure. Once the bit has made a little divot and stops walking, press down nice and hard, while keeping the drill going at a low speed. If you have multiple speed settings, put it on the lowest. The moment you make 1 tight squeeze and the drill goes fast...you might as well grab a new bit because you just dulled yours. Also, if you can put it in a drill press, that should be your first choice, and use carbide tipped bits if possible. I'm an electrician, and I drill into stainless all the time. I've burned up many drill bits. Lol

[@HerrRausB]

You are not the only This Old Tony fan - and there seems to be a vivid connection between him and guys like Adam Booth (abom79), Stefan Gotteswinter and other KZbin machinists... The guy is simply hillarious - there is that one episode, where he makes all of those guys appear somehow - plus having virtual phone calls with Chris from ClickSpring. And as it is about ingenious KZbinrs with high level educational contents - there are also ppl like Frank Howarth (Frank Makes) and as for the german community I also would recommend having a look at Michael Truppe (Let's Bastel) or the Post Apocalyptic Inventor who even had some nice appearences on a DMAX show, and ZeroBrain and BitBastelei, who rather do the electronic and IT related stuff :-) And last but not least: Martin from Marble Machine X - he combines everything what makes the Maker Scene for me: Art, 3D printing, machining, wood working, international collaboration, nice music and a great sense of humor :-) Anyway - greetings from the capital :-) and keep on the very good work on high level content :-) Axel PS: From a subscriber's view you already are long time on an even level with all these ppl - just german channels simply don't get the necessary and well-deserved attention from overseas... To say the least: Its' a shame, but I wont expand on that any further... :-)

[@howardjones543]

(Don't forget ToT's time-travelling lathe, and life hacks :-) ) Marco Reps is another good German channel, also with some strange humour.

[@ryebis]

Tip: don't use couplers with screws digging into the motor shaft. Over time, they grind away material and become hard to remove and they also concentrate the force on a small area. Use coupler with flexture - one that has cutout that compresses evenly around the shafts as you tighten the nut. They transmit the torsional force evenly and are easier to remove.

[@Neslekkim]

I have loads of Sortimo boxes to organisze stuff, the T-boxx, with screws and nuts :)

[@franktkalcevic5342]

Video suggestion - import an STL into Fusion360 so you can modify it (without parametric information)

[@loggercrawler]

I used torx drive button head 6-32 screws for mine from mcmaster-carr

[@adibbins]

Try keeping your superglue in the fridge, and take it 1 hour before you need it, use it then return it to the fridge, it'll help it last.

[@wmgilliland2582]

You need cobalt drill bits to drill stainless effectively.

[@darrellennor1763]

just use open ended spanner to hold the nuts

[@joey1_]

I Just got the notification, thanks KZbin.

[@alexandert-moss7187]

What jumper were you wearing in the video a year ago on 5 ways to ruin your 3D filament and how to fix it

[@MrCubflyer]

You may want to check out the everlast brand for tig they do tig ac and dc mig and stick I dont know what the shipping would be to you but they are a good welder if your not doing commercial welding.

[@jesondag]

This series is making me want to custom design and fabricate a large CNC router with linear rails, ball screws, and nema 23 motors.

[@matthewbucknall8350]

You're in the engineering capital of Europe and pan head screws are a specialist item?

[@Penofhell]

Yes because they're no good for propper engineering. Cheers from Switzerland, another center of precision engineering and machine tool making ;)

[@davidtaylor6870]

Just an additional comment: Please look at the periodic table of elements. Aluminium is the 13th element, and is the oldest form of the word. Also, just to bring up another word, 'solder'. Somehow it is now pronounced, sodder, but is spelt correctly,.....Hmm, is that odd?

[@mikeman230]

Drill stainless at very slow speed to reduce head which leads to hardening

[@michaeloxlong]

Low speed, high pressure. The moment you squeeze that trigger hard and go fast, might as well replace the bit because it's done. Also, carbide tips are your friend. Lol

[@davidtaylor6870]

Zee Zed, it is also like aluminium, which is the correct spelling on the table of periodic elements. Aluminum, is just a lazy way of the US language

[@michaeloxlong]

Actually, first it was called Alumium, then Aluminum. Aluminium is a new pronunciation and spelling. So aluminium is the Brits trying to sound different than Americans.

[@angel1138thx]

good video and good explanations but ... electric screwdriver as a hammer? Seriously? 1:21:12

[@YukonK9]

Thomas, do people ever mention you kinda look like Jurgen Klopp?

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

It's a Zed because that how it is pronounced in English. Aluminium was incorrectly translated by Americans who can't speak any English at the best of times, so it is pretty simple......................take all pronunciations from English and not whatever Americans think they're speaking :-)

[@michaeloxlong]

First it was Alumium, then it was changed to Aluminum, then the Brits added extra letters (like they always do) and started calling it aluminium. So it was you guys trying to sound different than your cooler cousins across the pond on that one. Lol Also, sing the ABCs. G, P, V, and Z all rhyme. Zed makes it sound like one of those crappy internet haiku's. 😆

[@user-vd1oc9zj4n]

Michael Oxlong The Americans used the ~ium spelling until the 1860s when the ~um spelling was reintroduced. It was not until the early 1900s that the ~um spelling became more common in America. The ~ium spelling is now the scientific international standard with ~um an accepted variant. Zed / Zee - I guess it makes sense if you need to make it rhyme for a song. The English language identifier is Zed. Non Americans know that Americans are special and need to do things differently to maintain that they are special. The fact that America lists the International Metric measurement system as its National Standard and then universally uses Imperial measurement is a classic example.