How far can I upgrade this toy 3D printer?

[@Levkin]

Reminds me of the good old Ender 3 times. Upgrades far exceeding the cost of the printer 🤣

[@padraigv]

im still in those days😂 og ender 3 with a bambu a1

[@garramiro]

​@@padraigvyes half the world (probably morel is still rocking ender 3s

[@RedRavenRuler]

I'm just about to to retire my two Ender 3 pros that have been highly modded and turn them into parts for other projects.

[@thegamercanine5127]

Never again, it was never worth it 😭

[@KnexJunkie]

I do like his attempt of making this better i mean it shows if you know how to make the machine better its gone print better but stil money wise its not worth it.

[@333donutboy]

This seems like it would make a great modding contest. It would be awesome to see one of these printers put out a 5 minute benchy.

[@Mr_Lyric]

I mean an ender3 currently holds the wr speedboat so definitly possible

[@SCKWorld-vv7te]

The 3D printer of Theseus: how much of it can you replace before it becomes a whole new printer?

[@lassikinnunen]

I have one of those, it was sold as a bukobot clone. As long as theres an original aluminium extrusion in there somewhere its still the same printer.

[@CraigTrader]

I have a Prusa Mk2 (now a Mk2.5) where the only stock parts from the original kit are (a) the vertical frame, (b) the printbed frame, (c) some of the threaded frame rods, (d) the stepper motors, and the (e) mainboard -- everything else has been replaced or upgraded.

[@SamuelDoesThings]

According to Creality, all you need is a bltouch

[@VadoVoodoo]

Here in the UK it would be compared to 'Trigger's Broom'..

[@littlenyancat5754]

11:30 There are commands for doing those two things, actually. The FORCE_MOVE command does exactly what it sounds like, and it ignores the homing state of the printer, as well as software endstops as far as I can tell. With it you could do say, FORCE_MOVE STEPPER=stepper_x DISTANCE=-250 VELOCITY=10 to ram the X gantry back 250mm, even if it does end up crashing into the frame. Afterwards, the SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION lets you tell "hey printer, you're at XYZ now" and after being issued, klipper allows you to move the printer normally as if you had homed it.

[@WAINTDEIR]

I once needed this command to recover a print job after idle timeout hit me at filament runout, but it has to be enabled in the config --> it was not there, so the print was a fail, but it was fun trying this stuff out and now i am prepared for it 🙂

[@darkempress7637]

Dougcode ?

[@bigobigo5045]

This feels like something a quirky engineering teacher would do as a class project.

[@Kalvinjj]

So sad I never had any of those, just the kind that thinks their subject and line of research is the center of the world, and everyone taking the entire course are just there to turn into his researchers and academics in general...

[@LeftJoystick]

That’d be nice, but might be only possible at a private or boarding school. The teacher would sooner get fired than be allowed to do anything cool at most highschools in the USA lol.

[@DesignMeSilly]

14:23 commenting specifically because of the scanner idea, never thought of that and it's awesome! Totally need to remember this for future projects

[@lassikinnunen]

Once you got your scanning settings good(found the right mode) you don't need the ruler, the scale will be in the metadata right when putting into inkscape or whatever floats your boat. (Inkscape is handy for turning scanner into a vector as well to import into tinkercad etc if you're just doing as simply as possible). For a bit irregular shapes that have some regularity still you can use paper plus dirty finger method of getting an impression too

[@MegaChickenPunch]

@@lassikinnunen or just measure one dimension, use scale option in any CAD and you have 1:1

[@ckitching2]

I've used this technique before, and it's the only reason I still have a 12 year old USB scanner around. It works best for colourful or white objects because you'll usually have to leave the scanner lid off which turns the background black. It's possible to do it with black objects, but only if they're relatively flat or if you have some way of making the edges visible. Alternatively, you can trace around an object with a mechanical pencil or something that can get as close to the edge of the object as possible and then scan the page. It's less accurate, but useful for objects that won't scan well.

[@David_Antos]

Holy moly, you're running the machine harder than I do my Rat Rig V-Core 3 ;)

[@barrettdent405]

You need to take this all the way with a new lightweight hotend and cooling setup. As you said, the low mass is a major advantage. This isn’t about whether it’s sane to do it. You’ve done it and it was awesome! Go on!

[@jeffm2787]

Good to see you've had a change of heart about klipper. I was a duet fan boy until I discovered klipper, now my Duet's are driven with Klipper. It's just so much more configurable and the input shaping actually works.

[@garramiro]

I don't if much more configurable . I can do pretty much anything klipper can on my duet wifi.

[@Daepilin]

That duet is much more expensive than any klipper style Mainboard though. ​@@garramiro

[@Graine01]

He got a chnge of heart because they threw a bag a him with a euro sign.

[@HvdHaghen]

First time I saw this printer I thought of using the parts to build a delta printer. Three times the same mechanism. I love this kind of project. Thanks.

[@federicocalvone9688]

I think you can force the printer to move without homing, it's called something like force_move. If I remember correctly you should add a block [force_move] force_move = true I don't have to tell you why this is not an advisable thing to do, but it could have been helpful in the early stages of configuration

[@julianschill]

Exactly. When force_move is active you can use SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION to set the current position.

[@nuy6n6nn]

I wish you made videos more frequently. I know it's hard but I really look forward to them

[@andyspoo2]

All this stuff takes time to design, print, test. And unless you are really trying to get divorced, sometimes you have to spend a few mins with the family.

[@mysticmarble94]

Klipper does actually have a force movement setting.

[@VisualGadget]

Yea. I spent an our trying to figure out why print head moving diagonally when I command to move on X axis. The reason was that FORCE_MOVEMENT mode doesn't respect my CoreXY kinematics. For simple kinematics, like that small printer has, it is OK.

[@teamllr3137]

this is the apogee of the "take a somewhat bad printer and making it good " movement, it's a great competitor to the ender 3 on that manner

[@ps3customgamer]

Ender 3 sucks the market is flooded and there’s no clean upgrade path beyond fixing the extruder and heatbreak.

[@AndrasBuzas1908]

I think it's just fun to take something crap and make it better.

[@StopChangingUsernamesYouTube]

I know what tools a lot of us started with, at least those of us who hopped in before Prusa started making noise and all that, but I find it amazing that we now have things we can call "toy 3D printers" instead of "Where should I install the smoke detector?"

[@ComixConsumed]

I love my easy threeD... Picked it up for like $40 and it's been a great little machine. Plan to use it to build a bigger machine when I get into a house

[@SeanCMonahan]

Add the line [force_move] to your printer.cfg file to enable you to command motor movement with unhomed axes in Klipper (11:25)

[@andrewwatts1997]

Next step - linear rails, linear motors, Dragonfly direct extruder, camera's, multilateral splitter. Jokes aside, a great build !

[@Kalvinjj]

That would be funny, the Ship of Theseus moment, gotta find a place to glue the Easythreed logo at least!

[@gcewing]

Tool changer... 4th and 5th axis...

[@ALex-qc4lf]

Just for info: Klipper can automatically save the suggestions to your config. It also tells you the suggestions in the chart, including which shaper function to use. MZV is only really useful if the chart has one peak with a bit of side noise. In case of multiple peaks you tend to need ei or 2hump ei

[@seljd]

give that Voron V2.4 some love and maybe convert it to toolchanger, that's worth at least 2 videos (1. build and 2. comparison with the XL)

[@ps3customgamer]

There’s too much voron content and honestly it’s due a refresh. The new hybrid corexy system on rat rig 4 is shockingly good, nevermind the new fleun delta that outperforms vorons.

[@BeefIngot]

@@ps3customgamer Yea. I feel like the Voron brand is really over exposed when Ratrig deserves at least an equal amount of light. The VCore4 Idex really is looking hot.

[@lolzlarkin3059]

Also, Tom is too salty to care about voron

[@Daepilin]

Meh, one is fully open with thousands of mods and for one you need to by custom parts only ratrig sells(+ way fewer mods) ... I know what I prefer even if the newest ratrig looks good.

[@BeefIngot]

@@Daepilin Where did you get that you need custom parts only ratrig sells? Its fully open source. As for mods, what mods would you need exactly or actually do that Ratrig doesnt have the capability for? To me thats an ender 3 argument. Lastly, have you not found the Voron community a tad bit snobby? They also have a hard bias against chamber heaters for no real good reason.

[@lajoyalobos2009]

He beat me to it!! I was considering buying this exact printer just for the sheer fun of upgrading it.

[@thewatersavior]

Nice! I have been running an easythreed x2 for 3+ years. Just adjusted belts. Its a workhorse, glad to have this future roadmap!

[@scottr4086]

Great video Tom! I really like to see these types of videos from you. You really shine on doing projects like this. I know it must take a ton of work, but just wanted you to know I appreciate it! Looking forward to your next video

[@sumguysr]

Designing a whole new tiny cheap printer sounds like a great project you'd knock outta the park.

[@justinpettit8282]

Little did I know after watching a couple of your KZbin videos i would actually get to mess around with one and decide to buy my own. I have already printed 6 things and its addicting lol im absolutely in love with it.

[@FilamentFriday]

Poor Fabrikator Mini gave up its steppers only to be tossed aside. I still have mine and it runs at MRRF every year.

[@sdwarfs]

I really LOVE that trick with the flatbed scanner... will try that for modelling smaller spare parts! 👍

[@jackra1n]

i know this is probably silly but i would love to see a video with more improvements to this machine (hotend, extruder etc.). was very entertaining to watch. i like the 3d models to improve stability of the printer

[@Arek_R.]

"I know what im doing" command, lmao, I need that. That belt cutting tool satisfying af.

[@LeftJoystick]

These are some of the coolest kinds of 3D Printing videos.

[@tenchuu007]

I greatly appreciate this kind of project. Stealth builds with jenk are fantastic.

[@JTCF]

It would be interesting to make a project of making these upgrades printable on the printer itself. Well, that's what I'm going to do with my K9, as I have already pondered on such a project, and I'm thankful you decided to do it!

[@BeefIngot]

As a fun project, this is cool, for any actual person wanting a printer, an A1 Mini currently is 200, so perfect printing vs saving basically nothing with so many fewer featues is kinda a hard sell. Actually in terms of having some fun I think the Rook is really good for that. Also in a similar vein: The 3d printed 3d printer where even the rails are 3d printed. Fun project.

[@zerog2000]

Definitely fun “because we can” project. From a time & money perspective, the A1 mini, especially being on sale is literally the definition of a no-brainer. Thumbs up for the clever 2d scan workflow trick.

[@randylovin472]

Excited to see Thomas get into Klipper!

[@tobunar]

I'm surprised you got confused by the installation part. Usually the first thing that comes up with installation instructions is KIAUH, which just installs everything important for you, you just have to choose the intefrace type and build the mainboard firmware.

[@symenbrug1992]

I have wanted to make a "sleeper build" out of this printer ever since that first video you had on it, this seems to be a pretty similar concept hahah

[@lacucaracha111111]

Mind you the BTT Pi CB1 USES A SPECIAL OS IMAGE AND NOT THE STANDARD RASPBIAN TO KLIPPER PROCESS. Had some serious headache with that on my voron

[@MadeWithLayers]

Yup, its an Allwinner H616 SOC that will definitely not boot Raspberry images.

[@Gooner333333333]

20:09 Tod Howard is that you??

[@DiThi]

You don't need a ruler with the flatbed scanner. Knowing the image resolution and the DPI you can get the exact physical size from it.

[@MadeWithLayers]

Theoretically, yes, but I've had scanners that ended up consistently being a couple percent off.

[@DiThi]

@@MadeWithLayers hmmm in that case I will check my scanners with a ruler... In some cases I was a bit off but I assumed it was the inaccuracy of the borders being kind of blurry.

[@RX---]

Is great to watch this kind of videos!. Can you make a video of an upgrade of a Prusa MK1 (2012-2015) using the available technology? This will very interesting/useful to anyone who have one of these in a corner with dust 😂. Greetings from Brazil!

[@1fareast14]

11:38 I got around this problem with a force move section in the config file and set kinematic position command

[@quinnobi42]

I remember a few years back when I upgraded my ender 3 with klipper, I was working from scratch. I used a combination of the official Klipper documentation and the Voron documentation to get everything set up with Fluidd as my frontend of choice. Wasn't that hard but definitely time consuming to figure out. Nice to see that they're making it easier for noobs to get into it with premade installs and images.

[@JosephHalder]

I had a week off around Christmas time a year and a half ago, and had just installed my BTT SKR E3 v3, it was brand new, and support for it's MCU wasn't even in the official Klipper branch. I also used Fluidd, but recently just dumped the same config into Mainsail, and it still works great. It's a steep learning curve, but I can't even imagine going back to Marlin.

[@ArticTiger]

Thank you, genuinely for changing your stance on Klipper, the early community was shit but the software is impressive IMO, I hoped to see you cover it at some point! Very excited about the future!

[@117giova]

Wow thank you for this upgrade project

[@KeozFPV]

That trickwith the scanner and the ruler is just genius. I have never tought of it... THE BEST PART IS THAT THE IMMAGE IS NOT DISTORTED LIKE WHEN YOU TAKE AN IMAGE WITH A CAMERA:

[@spudhead169]

As someone totally unfamiliar with 3D Printing, this has put me off for life. The sheer amount of terminology and part variations, software, hardware etc.. is just crazy. I simply do not have the time for this kind of learning curve.

[@patsprankcalls]

3d printing is nothing like this. It's super simple now, look into Bambu lab printers.

[@MadeWithLayers]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJOQc62cadOEmqc :)

[@spudhead169]

@@MadeWithLayers Cool, I'll give it a go.

[@spudhead169]

@@MadeWithLayers Still pretty daunting but at least now I understand some core concepts which is a good foundation to start from.

[@danwood1121]

I really enjoy this kind of project, seeing how far you can take a cheap product.

[@yassinelessawy6101]

This is the type of content I love

[@Seelingfahne]

Ah is this that Pambooh A1 everyone is talking about?

[@cynic5581]

I’ve been using a flatbed scanner for years. For whatever reason, reasons I’m nervous to look into for fear of altering on accident, my scans are 1 to 1 in scale. So I can scan, import image into Fusion (or whatever software), trace it in CAD, extrude/modify, slice it, print it. Works so well my friends think I know how to model stuff in CAD (I don’t) when I print them replacement parts for broken things. Might be worth doing a video on that if you haven’t already.

[@garramiro]

You do know how to model if you can make a part from a 2d scan.

[@GeraldNagel-q8u]

Excellent video. I do like the out of the box thinking. Well done.

[@ps3customgamer]

I’ve ran a Kingroon KP3S for a couple of years now and it’s only double the price of the easythreed it outperforms mainstream printers in every way due to its excellent mainboard, tmc2225 steppers, linear rails, lightweight 180mm square bed and clone Titan/v6 hot end. I installed a tweaked marlin immediately for a more advanced menu system but otherwise my machine is stock. I need to klipperise my printer as I’ve seen it’s capable of 5k accelerations and I’ve ordered a bimetal heat break/heatsink from Keepang I’m hoping will be compatible

[@paulminor4707]

there IS actually a homing override (its needed for Z hop on homing for example), and manually homing is possible as well.

[@VoltexRB]

Your input shaper graphs have too much noise in it since you are shaking the parts too little due to them being too light. For very lightweight parts you have to turn up the "accel_per_hz" in the [resonance_tester] section of your config so it gets a little bit more violent and the resonance can actually be distinguished from noise. It defaults to 75, but you can give it a few runs increasing by 25 each one and checking the graphs if you can get rid of the noise and get cleaner results there. That should also give you a bit better resonance comensation results in prints

[@Erpty05]

this is so fun - you are such a talented engineer!

[@fatherg101]

Thoroughly enjoyed the previous video & this one. awesome stuff!

[@ThantiK]

Hell yeah Tom, this is some good stuff.

[@justthinkingthoughts]

I just finished the blower and camera mount after converting my mega-s to biqu h2, skr3 and klipper. Smh yeah i could have bought a second for that upgrade but the modelling and trial error with tolerances for the adapters was the most fun

[@BenS1002]

Glad you gave Klipper a try, it's awesome!

[@woutervossebeld4664]

10:30 mainsail is the most accesible since you can flash it on a pi with the official pi flashing tool.

[@vogon3400]

incredible work as always, and I'm really glad you ended up enjoying klipper after all!

[@mayaseagreen]

if the usb c cable was power only how did your mouse work

[@Rezzell]

I just love (and laugh) at how the little guy just moves around while printing x'D... That's awesome.

[@user-ns7qw9hd5y]

very cool project, but why didnt you do any before/after cmparisons regarding print quality, speed and whatever?

[@MadeWithLayers]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5zNgHiXhb5piM0 that's the "before"

[@JosephHalder]

I think this is my favorite video you've ever done, lol. It really is a shame that the Klipper community is a bit toxic, hopefully that's gotten better. I think it's just a higher ratio of impatient nerdy neckbeards (of which I am one) without much of a tolerance for newbies. Really impressed with the custom parts, and the acceleration on that tiny chassis.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Unfortunately, things have not gotten better. I've seen it in the Klipper forums myself recently. Suggestions are shot down without any discussion on Pros and Cons, and there's this weird obsession with keeping the main project "pure". As an aside, Klipper C code is not regular C code. There's custom shell script compiler magic going on, and no one over there is even interested wants to change it. Even if flashing a new firmware to the MCU is a known pain point.

[@guilhermericardo9396]

Hello. Congratulations on the video. Could you tell us the torque of the Nema14 stepper motors you used in this project? Thanks.

[@MadeWithLayers]

I don't have the exact specs on the motors, but I'd guess they would be somewhere in the 20-30 Ncm range.

[@tiaan1587]

I would really love to see a full video of how to do custom clipper setups for any machine, defenitley a delta as I don't see much information surrounding the topic

[@DiThi]

The graphs at 17:05 tell you what shaper is recommended from those measurements (in your case 3HUMP_EI and 2HUMP_EI respectively). It's true that it should have an option to set those automatically. It's what 99.9% of users would ever need.

[@MadeWithLayers]

I've seen those recommendations, but the Wiki has a more detailed set of pros and cons for each option. MVZ was the safe choice, but I'm sure there are better options with a bit more tuning.

[@xLaserwalker]

You bought the wrong bushings from Igus. These are for radial motion. They also have bushings for linear motion

[@NirateGoel]

Stupid question but what's the difference it's only a hollow metal cylinder

[@MadeWithLayers]

Eh, not quite, these are simply universal bushing sleeves vs the more specialized linear bushings (which are much larger and wouldn't fit). Same challenge with pressing them in, too, and in the end, they're the exact same material

[@MadeWithLayers]

As mentioned in the video, the linear-specific ones would have been way too large. The ones I used are universal types and suitable for both radial and linear motion.

[@nonzensy1554]

i have a slight challenge for you, extend the printer by doubling x y and z dimensions with parts only prited in the printer it self, besides printer bed and the belts. bonus if you can print the new belts yourself with a flexible filament and i suggest upgrading to a hotbed sized for tze new dimensions so the prints will fit on and now the materials needing ahot bed can be printed.

[@achannelhasnoname5182]

I really love videos like these, they're so fun to watch

[@JanPeterDeVries]

Ok, ordered and already printing your upgrade parts to start with :) I mostly just want a nice compact and collapsible travel printer, doesn't need to be the best quality. But any upgrades that don't make it significantly bigger are a bonus ofcourse.

[@nickfury1279]

I would look at building a Positron if you want a small travel printer

[@JanPeterDeVries]

@@nickfury1279 I would if it wasn't so expensive. I bought my P1S for less 😛

[@11danzizzle11]

Wonderful video! I always love seeing bargain bin items souped up to be way more functional! I have fond memories of doing similar stuff to my Printrbot Simple back in the day haha.

[@GabrielAlejandroZorrilla]

Not bargain it you have to get the pi, new steppers, power source, list goes on ...😂

[@LayerbyLayerOfficial]

what a cute little a1 mini wanabe!❤

[@simonsimpson4695]

The hot end assembly is unique and interesting in its capability. I too would like to see a bearing upgrade of some kind.

[@greggv8]

It needs something to stiffen the top of the original main base case to the tower doesn't wobble around. How about a 3D printed grid to mount inside it?

[@AerialWaviator]

While this is not a recommended project; I do appreciate the informative lessons on upgrade mods and custom klipper setup insights. Both educational and entertaining episode. Part of me is wanting to see a custom design variation that uses linear rails and an easy swappable A1-style print head. It would be educational and fascinating from a engineering design and how it works aspect, but not necessary that practical, beyond an experimental, or learning tools aspect.

[@steveobhave]

Holy moly how good quality is your camera! Sharp as a razor man!

[@BennyTygohome]

We really went down the rabbit hole on this one. Excellent video, i really enjoyed it. Thank you 👍

[@CapnBry]

You're insane for doing this but I love the engineering mindset of "we can fix this". I'm shocked at how good it got after what would be marginal upgrades if you didn't have to design everything from scratch yourself! 💪

[@WalkableBuffalo]

I really like the look of the Hobbyking Fabrikator Mini, is there still anything available in that sort of size that's useful? Maybe I just really like the transparent chassis 😅

[@dombaines]

Thomas I had added a spring steel bed after I got rid of the original, with the other mods this is an effective if quirky little printer.

[@dombaines]

Using a multifunction printer/flat bed scanner option (with a ruler) is just an obvious option (after you mention it of course).

[@802Garage]

Super fun. Reminds me of sleeper builds in airsoft where you take a $30-100 crappy electric pew pew and put $300 of internals in it to dominate everything on the field.

[@TheLaXandro]

It's amazing what input shaping can do with floppy geometry.

[@arklanuthoslin]

love the flatbed scanner trick. Similarly I was making a printed, solid, non-flexible arm bracer for an assassin's creed cosplay for a friend, and needed to scale it to his arm, of course. took a couple pictures of his forearm held over a 1cm grid for a little paper cutter at a couple different angles and much to my amazement it worked really well and fits perfectly. but a forearm is just slightly more organic in shape that this printer, so it took a LOT of minor adjustments.

[@henrymach]

So, you basically installed a V8 engine in a Trabant

[@tad2021]

The biggest difference between Fluidd and Mainsail for me is Fluidd has a light move out of box and for Mainsail it has to be manually installed as a theme. The extra dark UIs like the built in theme of current Mainsail triggers migraines for me, so I stuck to Fluidd. The multi controller support of Klipper is great. I've made a number of custom application specific control boards for things like screens, fans and lightning. Toolhead controls are great for reducing the wiring down to just a single 4 conductor cable, which brings the expensive IGUS cables into budget.

[@michaelgoff6481]

I admit you lost me on some of the terminology. One of your comments got me thinking. Maybe you should start a new play list to design a printer that can be printed like the old rep rap desire before they switched to metal printers. We could order prints from a print service and follow along. Would that be worth considering?

[@plebetopro5786]

The bushings are probably UHMW, or Ultra High Molecular Weight... something. It's used in manufacturing a lot for low friction needs, but not places where we want to use bearings.

[@StevenSheridan31416]

Idea! A wobbly-o-matic like this printer (unmodded) could actually be a brilliant demonstrator for Klipper's capabilities and limitations. I suppose, in theory, it could remove the mean of all the wobbles and backlash, leaving only the *variance* of each as the noise which makes it through to the print. Nothing that software can do about noise. (although, I'd imagine that much of the variance wouldn't just be noise, but also, different resonances at different x/y/z positions. This would be a project for a full-on Klipper nerd, but imagine this machine running a full x/y motion calibration through a complete x/y/z grid.)

[@pusnirizda5481]

In klipper there is force_move command for acually moving without homing. It sure wont helpful there but at it will work for debugging i guess.

[@zacharykarr]

I wanted to see all the parts printed on the machine itself, just like old times!

[@MitsumaYT]

11:30 thats not correct with SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION X= Y= Z= you can set klipper to think its at a specific position and then you can move it freely. Of course be careful what you do.

[@johnstackse]

You also need to have this in the config, where you promise Klipper that you know what you're doing: [force_move] enable_force_move: True

[@hippiemcfake6364]

Cool video! I'd have loved to see how much each of the individual changes contributed, i.e. by testing it after each change. For instance, how much can you improve it with printed parts only? As well as some data on print times and dimensional accuracy.

[@jameslaine2472]

With the hotend being the limiting factor, I wonder if some form of filament pre-heater would help. For example, if that bowden tube was wrapped with heating wire and calibrated to a temperature somewhere just below filament glass transition starting temp, if the small hotend would end up with improved performance. Tom, you have more space and resources than I have, so ask if you are willing to try an experiment in a future video.

[@MadeWithLayers]

Most of the energy goes into the filament at and past its softening temperature, and especially with PLA, most extruders take extra effort to keep the filament as cool as possible before it enters the meltzone. A CHT-style nozzle and a stronger extruder motor would make much more of a difference here.

[@theo4626]

The second you said you will install klipper your got me almost dying of laughing.

[@theflyingnon1133]

watching it rotate on the table while benchy-ing was hilarious

[@hadeseh6808]

So i got confused at the rolling bearings part so yomade the width of the sliding block smaller so it fits tight to the rods

[@MatsMatsuo]

Yes, maybe it's not worth it "upgrading" a printer like this, but I love to do this little projects, seeing it getting better and better, to turn a crappy thing into something decent even though it's not finacially wise. Loved the video, thanks.

[@chrisbaker3760]

I did this with an old anet a8... I replaced more of the printer than I kept but it looks fairly stock. It's fastest was a sub 13 minute benchy which is just nuts for a wobbly old acrylic frame from the dark ages 😂 These kinds of projects are great fun