Electroplating at home

[@BigFootpl]

I was selling electroplating equipment for jewelers and I can tell you: Good chemical product and following the instruction on it is the key! Depositing 1 micron of gold took about 15-30 seconds. Nice thick layer of nickel was about 3-5 minutes. Each solution had very different voltages ranging from 0.5 to 10 volts. There was silver paint for plating nonmetal objects (could be airbrushed) but I cost something like 50$ per 10g I was plating prints with gold using this paint and good solution first try without any problems. I think one of your problems is oxidation and "copper paint binder" Essential step in electroplating is removing oxidation and having clean surface. Problem is not resistance between two probed points by sticking needles in them, but resistance of the surface without "scraping". If even few atom thick oxidation is on the surface, electoplating will fail. We use electro etching salts to remove oxidation, then rinse in running water, and next in distilled water and put to plating solution - this step HAS TO BE DONE quickly without exposing item to air. So you dip it to plating solution when it's still wet with distilled water) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! Every jeweler that went for expensive chemicals never went back to cheap or DIY solutions, they just work flawlessly! (we sold "Heimerle + Meule", but there are many other high end brands) You said that the surface will be better after plating - that's a mistake, every inperfection before plating will be multiplied (unless you just drench it in metal). We polished things that were to be gold plated to better standard than normal products. WARNING: Most of good products has high concentration of potassium cyanide which is deadly even when you lick your fingers after dipping in this solutions! It's spy movie level poison!

[@JonDeth]

What did you use for your electrodes? *Graphite is the most ideal because it doesn't gradually decay the way conductive metals do.* Fortunately, large rods are also cheap. I have some powder coat paint I'm soon to experiment with and it should produce a result that's far more like anodizing than plating but without the dangerous and toxic chemical bath. I think with enough voltage, it should bond colorant deeply rather than just achieving a skinning effect.

[@NiksSofa]

[ ] No, I would not like to see Tom try to make a chrome Benchy. [ X ] Yes, I would like to see Tom try to make a chrome Benchy.

[@yvan2563]

[x] Yes, I would like to see Tom try to make a metal casting from a 3D-printed Benchy.

[@jirij]

[ X ] No, I would like to see Tom try copper vapor deposition. :)

[@BlackTownie999]

X

[@AdrianvanNunen]

[ X ] Yes, I'd like to see Tom try this with a resin printed Benchy

[@RubenDorna]

[ X ] Yes, I would like to see Tom try to make a chrome Benchy.

[@stewiex]

I had similar results to you for much cheaper. 1. I made my own copper sulfate using peroxide/white vinegar, water and simple 1/2 inch copper pipe. 2. I used copper pipe as the electrode. 3. I coated a normal PLA print with spray adhesive and copper leaf. A) This needs improving and doesn't work great on small details because it is hard to get the leaf to stick. B) I had limited success using graphite powder from a crushed up lead pencil. You can buy fine graphite powder, but I was doing it on the cheap. 4. I found an ordinary AA battery gave me the right amount of electricity flow. A 9V was too powerful.

[@stewiex]

Regardless, amazing video and thank you for exploring this in more detail. I have definitely not perfected it either but see real potential.

[@ChainsawFPV]

I use U-Pol Weld #2 spray can as a weld thru primer on autoparts. I wonder how it would work as a base instead of what he used U-Pol is pretty much straight copper with a nice finish.

[@ichbintoll7128]

wouldnt that make copper acetate though?

[@stewiex]

@@ichbintoll7128 yes sorry I didn't clarify. I only tried copper electroplating.

[@ingmarm8858]

German company LPKF who manufacture high end PCB mills also have a 3d electroplating system which allows you to selectively plate complex shapes to - for example - put antenna shapes onto objects. They have a spray paint which allows the electroplating to happen on plactic etc parts. Maybe that is worth exploring.

[@jameyrk100]

Your copper electrolyte might be too concentrated for the geometry you are plating. Electroplating is a balancing act of depositing metal to your part with the current and the electrolyte eating the coating that you just applied away. Also, even though the alligator clips make good contact, the best practice is to never put steal or other metals into your plating bath as it will foul the electrolyte. Great video and good luck.

[@adamrak7560]

the electrolyte eating the metal away from the part is actually very important to get a smooth and high quality surface! So you may want to balance the sulphate levels too (one more variable to tweak!).

[@klasodeth]

That only applies to the anode, since that's where the sacrificial material is. It's perfectly fine to have steel at the cathode end, because it's just going to get plated along with the part itself. There's certainly no avoiding the presence of steel at the cathode if you're electroplating steel parts. Basically, the submerged part of the anode should only consist of the desired sacrificial metal, but the anode can be pretty much anything that's conductive.

[@Snigzou]

@@klasodeth It's not fine for copper acidic baths. A spontaneous oxydoreduction reaction will happen, reducing Cu2+ in Cu on the surface, and oxydizing Fe in Fe2+. You will get a very crude layer without any adhesion, and your copper bath will be polluted. You can't directly plate steel in copper acidic solutions, you have to use cyanide or pyrophosphate based solutions.

[@hadinossanosam4459]

If you're going for copper or nickel anyway, electroless plating might be a better choice: works on non-conductive materials, doesn't have current density (="shadowing") issues, and can be (and industrially is) used as a conductive base to then electroplate other metals (e.g. ENIG finish for PCBs is electroless nickel, immersion gold). I don't know how nasty the chemicals are, though

[@lal12]

Had the same thought. Applied science made a video about that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGOVaauvoraMntE

[@bzqp2]

What do you mean by "electroless" plating? Vacuum metalization? Hydrochroming? Is it suitable for silvery one-way mirrors effects?

[@N.Cognito]

@@bzqp2 E Nickel is a thermochemical plating process where the nickel is dissolved in the heated (190F) solution and it deposits to the part while it's in the bath.

[@JonS]

It's not easy to maintain electroless plating baths. Get things just a little wrong and you end up with the solution plating on to your tanks. I agree that starting with a thin electroless plate before moving to electroplating is a good strategy. I'm no plating expert, but in a research project I was on, we performed a thin electroless Pd plating on to plastic (I believe this helps adhesion), followed by electroless Ni, and then electroplated Cu (that was followed by Ni then Au).

[@N.Cognito]

@@JonS pd is commonly used to provide nonconductive parts with a conductive layer. Once you have a metallic layer you can move to electroplating.

[@milhooz]

I have seen someone make a 3D Printed Daft Punk helmet with a mirror Chrome coating with only chemical coating, no electro coating. It worked well.

[@danhyde7501]

Check out HEN3DRIK he made the most stunning mandalorian helmet I’ve ever seen

[@LoremIpsum1970]

@@danhyde7501 Yep, quite a few people have done this plating with little problems, palladium looks like a better/less toxic alternative. (We can't 'easily' source chrome plating solutions in the UK unless you are in the industry).

[@iBlue0riginal]

@@LoremIpsum1970 Though its quite expensive. You can use iron(ii) sulphate with some organic acids to get a carbon steel coating. If you keep your electrolyte clean, you will get a mirror finish. Source: Been there, done that.

[@edumaker-alexgibson]

This was a terrific video, Tom. I like that you honestly presented the results of a reasonable amateur attempt using the recommended products and tools, and documented what actually happens. I would love to see you go further with this. I am still going to give it a go, so you've already saved me bothering with the conductive filament and graphite spray, but confirmed I do have most of the necessary gear, just need some copper paint.

[@HotboiEngineering]

If you’re painting the part, could you maybe use vaporsmoothed ABS or Polymaker Polysmooth? That way the chrome would be super shiny and smooth.

[@iBlue0riginal]

You can also use leveling additives which make the coating smooth. Commercial additives usually have those.

[@goeland86]

Was about to suggest that. I've had incredible results with the pvb and polysher

[@HexenzirkelZuluhed]

This is very interesting. I vote YAY for the chrome benchy. As you said: there's much more exploration to be done.

[@lensineer]

I once saw a industrial application for plating ABS plastic and it was astonishing how thick and solid the coat was almost felt like a real metal part. It also wasn't a expensive part, it was just a cover that gets replaced quite regularly but needs the metal surface to withstand sparks (it was from a welding robot). AFAIK they first deposit a thin layer of silver or palladium on there but also through electrolysis. Also I am absolutely for the chrome Benchy!

[@fred-9929]

A few months ago, someone asked me to 3D print some decorative parts to restore an old Ford (Mustang, I think?). He sanded/filled/sanded the parts, and send them to another guy to put chrome on them. The result is amazing! I have to idea what was the process, but it worked really well. You can even bend the part without damaging the chrome.

[@theplinkerslodge6361]

Great, great share, Thomas. Very realistic reporting out your results... It seems you got the process to a level of creating compound finishes, the two material copper and chrome has potential as stylistic add to a print.

[@RegularOldDan]

Phew. I'm glad I watched this before actually trying anything. I've been considering trying electroplating for years (ever since seeing someone tout a solution they have had in development for years now with no release date in sight) but always had a niggling feeling that it would be far more difficult and expensive than I had thought. While still "attainable," spending as much on equipment and consumables as a cheap printer just doesn't seem like a value proposition I'd want to consider at this point. Not to mention the chemicals I've long had reservations about having near kids and pets. Excellent detail and information and much appreciated.

[@ZakLeek]

Thanks for sharing this great video Tom! It was really interesting to see your experimental processes. I don't think I will try this at home, but it might be a fun thing to explore sometime in the future.

[@JonS]

I believe a thin electroless plating of Palladium works well to get good adhesion to plastic. At least that's what a partner company did in a pan-European project I was part of once. You might want to find a plating expert at a company in Germany and pay them a visit with some prints. It would make for an interesting video.

[@05Matz]

Chromium is a bit of a scary substance to work with because of its toxicity, even compared to other electroplating solutions, but I'm very interested in further metal coating experiments in general!

[@iBlue0riginal]

Hexavalent chrome is. There are Cr3+ electrolytes now which can be used and are not that toxic.

[@pknaus666]

@@iBlue0riginal Cr3+ eletrolytes are less toxic but they are very very unstable and cost a lot more in all chemicals. Cr6+ is only toxic in the solution. after the chromeplating you only have chromeoxide as the layer and this is non toxic

[@jparky1972]

It CAN be done. I used a conductive paint on a standard PLA. I made my own copper acetate and my own Nickle acetate. The copper worked very well. The Nickle not as well. But that, I think, was due to my Nickle acetate mix kit being great. The tips I'd recommend is move the part around. Move the contact points around on the part. Also consider 'painting' it on as mentioned in the video. Power needs to be low. A 1.5v AA battery will work. As for the stirrer bath? I didn't need it. Never used anything like that. As for costs? Easily less than £/$ 100. That's assuming you have NOTHING to start with. Making your own acetate saves a load of money.

[@guycocksedge306]

Hi, how long does a standard AA battery last in this situation? More than one per job?

[@christianzilker28]

Very interesting, i didn´t try somethimg like this for my self ...yet. By the way i am an electroplater and i own a 3d printer. I think the plating solutions are simple ones with citric or sulfuric acid. They should work for simple things. Here some tips: 1.) Preparing the surface: proper cleaning of parts, you didnt mention it in the video. You should clean the Copper sprayed parts atleast with isoprop. and put them for a few seconds in in the plating solution BEFORE you switch on the powersupply. You cant electroplate on oxides, this should get rid of them. Also counts for Anodes 2.) Always use constant Current function, Plating Current works in tandem to Surface size.Double the size Double the Current. It should not change while palting. If bubbles start to form at the Kathode your Current is to High or the Solution is to weak. 3.) Get More metal ions in your Plating solution. If you use Nickelelectrolyte with sulfuric acid try adding Nickelsulfate. Higher temp should also help, around 40-50°C is Normal with Nickelplating . 4.) To get rid of Electrolyte inside of the parts, flush it out. Kepp the plated part in clean water for 1 hour or longer. I hope that helps a little bit Have fun

[@nukedathlonman]

Def would like to see you attempt chrome plating. But this does make me wonder about other filaments - very interesting stuff.

[@KACPER050599]

chromium compounds are too dangerous for DIY

[@iBlue0riginal]

@@KACPER050599 Cr6+ is, Cr3+ is ok. There are commercial plating solutions with Cr3+ nowadays. But hexavalent chromium, I would not want to work with.

[@flomojo2u]

Hi Tom, very interesting video. While I'm no electrodeposition professional, it's definitely not a simple process that some of the DIY electroplating videos might make it seem, since they're usually plating something metal and it's usually both smooth and doesn't have complex, occluded areas that the current just doesn't reach. I'd have to say that trying to plate a Benchy is probably the worst-case sort of target for plating, it has so many recessed and occluded areas that are either difficult or virtually impossible to plate effectively, short of adding additional plating metal electrodes inside the areas to act as additional sources of metal/current. It looks like you found some high-quality copper electroplating solution, so at least you didn't have to wrestle with that detail like some of the DIY videos that try to use junk like vinegar to brew your own electrolyte. If you're seeing significant bubbling you're probably going too fast, generally slower is better, especially if you're dealing with areas that don't plate nearly as fast as the others. As you've noted, having more plating electrodes to surround the part will give you better results, especially for such difficult parts. In a perfect world you'd just suspend the part inside a electrolyte-filled metal sphere, but most of us don't have one handy :-) Metal paint is definitely the best way to go, I've used nickel paint as well with good results, and the really low resistance that's generally pretty uniform is invaluable. I wouldn't bother trying to pursue chrome. I'm not aware of any "true" chrome electroplating solution that is available to the public, the hexavalent chromium used in such solutions is incredibly toxic and carcinogenic, and is the reason that environmental regulations were originally created in the USA due to its incredible toxicity and other hazards. As you've noted, you need to properly handle any waste water and remaining materials, and that sort of issue is of far greater importance for chromium compounds. Great video, it's definitely a difficult project but the results can be worth the trouble. You can get pretty good results with highly-polished nickel without needing chrome, so that might be the best idea if you're looking for that brilliant silver shine. While it's likely far outside the scope of a video, high-vacuum thermal evaporation or magnetron sputtering can give you great results with zero chemicals to worry about since you're moving the metal directly from one point to another without relying on an electrolyte. Really fun, but a whole world of cost and difficulty :-) Applied Science has some great videos on these processes BTW.

[@RainerK.]

Seen people do it with resin prints (and even those had been sanded before). Looked amazing.

[@JD_JR]

We definitely want a crhome benchy! Keep trying! And thank you for sharing your successes and failures.

[@BestSpatula]

I think you should try one of the various vapor deposition techniques to coat pure plastic 3D prints. I think the results would be far superior to what you're able to achieve using the method in this video.

[@ianbottom7396]

Thomas I have been plating prints for several years now and I agree 100% on conductive filaments. Sealing is a good idea, hollow prints can still be done if you fill with distilled water or simply use weights to hold under. Using a small gear motor to turn your job in the bath constantly helps with coverage. Anodes need to be the correct grade, many grades of copper don’t work well, if you aren’t using product sold as anodes, try using refrigeration grade copper tube. Final tip is electroplating is best done as constant current and typically I use 0.1 amps per square inch and start even lower so you don’t burn the conductive paint off which is poss. You also get best results when your anode area is 2:1 versus the area of your job

[@grantclark4139]

Thank you for your breakdown of the different methods and what to expect. I've been experimenting with making DIY PCBs using electroplating, and I'm working on dialing in my settings now. It seems like 12v is working best so far going on top of graphite paint, but like you I have dendrites forming. I'm adding 10 ohms each test to see what works best, wish me luck!

[@markburton5292]

smoothness makes a big difference as well try sanding them first. also you need to buff the layers using some steel wool to help.

[@nonchip]

to fix the "few contact points to grow like crazy while the middle between them is still blank" issue i've seen people wrap the part into a mesh or tightly wrapped coil of bare copper wires to get lots of contact surface, though those might shadow the part's surface if you overdo it, just like your tiny tank. for the "acid leaking in" issue (and similar surface ugliness), i think the only solution would be to sand+fill+sand+fill+sand+fill+goto_sand it for ages to get it perfectly smooth+sealed before the first coat. also put your sacrificial electrodes in a cheesecloth or filter bag or something, prevents random copper pieces from breaking off and sticking to your part. what i wonder is whether you (or someone with that equipment :P) could _sputter_ a super thin and even conductive layer to plate over, to get the best resolution without any "surface smoothing" out of e.g. resin prints.

[@Corn_DOG]

I watched a guy called Alex Labs do this and he seemed to have better results.... he used only one + and one - point in his solution. He also used spray on conductive material but he stressed to polish this coat before moving forward showing that a poished surface had much better resistance. Good luck on future experiments

[@printportland1573]

I had pretty similar results. First started trying Jan 2015. Parts still look pretty good today and have started to develop a little patina. Had trouble with even plating in deep recesses. Had best results if I sprayed clear over the prints to seal before painting with the conductive paint.

[@bzqp2]

Pics?

[@bigfoot6253]

Nice to see you try it and share your fails. HEN3DRIK (- Electroplating 3D Prints) made some really nice electroplated prints as well, maybe he can give you some advice.

[@wbcc3388]

Could you elaborate on why the company names were taped over?

[@henrymach]

That industrial plastic piece with chrome was probably made using vapor deposition instead of electroplating

[@JohnClark-tt2bl]

I was going to suggest a larger tub. Glad you came to the same conclusion.

[@Kaliumcyanidful]

I saw some videos making it look easy to electroplate… Thank you for the correction!!! 😊😊

[@johnford7847]

Like Shawn mentions, the electroplating systems I've seen had vigorous agitation - and used elevated temperatures, too. You're trying to minimize the diffusion distances of ions to the surface. Very interesting video. Good luck.

[@J3DGamer]

I’ve seen videos on pen plating and it has spectacular results and it’s a lot cheaper to get started

[@peterpiwowarski8689]

Maybe vapor-smoothed ABS/ASA would be a good idea? In wild-eyed optimism mode, it should be more liquid-tight, and maybe more compatible with conductive paints than PLA. Very interesting process.

[@Tynted]

Yeahhh I definitely want to see you delve deeper into this topic! Maybe see if you can get better results and give a further optimized setup guide for people to follow. Also, a chrome benchy please!

[@thensley72]

I had the best of luck with mixing acrylic paint with lots of graphite power. The more graphite, the more conductive it is.

[@andrewschaible4104]

Great to see the progress made in this video. Thanks for the tips.

[@6alecapristrudel]

You can solder thick wires to the jaws of your alligator clips to make solid, heavier, long clips that don't jam. The joints stay out of the water. Tiny spring loaded tongs basically. You can curve the tips as you like to hold your parts well. You can do gold plating with chloroauric acid, sodium hydroxide and acetyl cysteine. Yes, the cough medicine. Electroless silver for a conductive seed layer works well. And it's not as toxic as the other electroless solutions like copper and nickel. You need silver nitrate, citric acid and ascorbic acid (yes, vitamin C), and disodium EDTA. Also tin(II) chloride to enable the silver to plate onto non-conductive parts. Good plates will test in the single to double digit ohms and will then fully coat in copper in 10-20 minutes. You can also do plastic, glass, acorns, trees and many more i assume. Though the silver does like to stain everything it touches, including fingers and eyeballs, so be careful lol. The regular silver mirror, school demo way of plating stuff in silver doesn't quite work. Sodium hydroxide tends to slowly destroy PLA and the silver doesn't adhere.

[@DustinGorman]

Thanks for another great video! It's been a while but I'm always looking forward to what you have coming up.

[@JonDeth]

*I bought some graphite rods for this specific electronic mechanism since they won't decay the way conductive metals gradually do.* I'm soon to do some plating by experimenting with conductive powder coating paint. *It would be far more efficient if I can use an electroplating bath rather than spraying objects in a box then tossing them in an oven, and it will also enable me to do conductive materials that have no relative thermal resistance for baking.* BTW, I did actually go to college for the science of electrical/electronics engineering lol. I didn't graduate, but did cover a tremendous amount of material so I class myself as an amateur engineer. I generally have highly in depth, scientific knowledge and can perform the advanced mathematics as well as produce unique analog designs, *but I just don't have the fancy piece of paper hanging on my wall.* I also never made it to digital circuit topologies or software languages, that one somewhat eats at me lol!

[@harviecz]

i saw really cool thing on hackaday. they had 3d printed a mold with, stuffed it with steel wool, put needle electrodes in it and electroplated the whole steel wool. effectively creating solid metal part from steel and copper "marble" composite. mold needs to have lots of holes like strainer, so the current and electrolyte can flow inside to coat the wool.

[@od_studios]

Your biggest mistake is having exposed copper wire in the plating solution. Electricity follows the path of last resistance. The exposed wire has nearly no resistance, so the plating will occur there. If there is no wire exposed the plating will be forced to take place on the actual print.

[@Nightmarenightmarenightmare69]

What kind of wire would you use to suspend instead then?

[@WinWin-pz9wq]

@@Nightmarenightmarenightmare69you would need a wire with insulation.

[@voxeltek6624]

​@@WinWin-pz9wq The wire in this case was insulated up until the contact points with the 3D print. I believe the question is moreso how to ensure adequate contact with the 3D printed part without having exposed copper, which is a much harder challenge to solve. The best solution I can think of is using a thin enameled copper wire ("magnet wire") and exposing the copper only at the necessary contact points.

[@Pygex]

The best solution is to print a sacrificial beam that you coat with the paint as well so it can stick out of the solution. Something that you can break off. The down part is it's going to leave a mark.

[@samanrashidi8683]

I kinda disagree. The main problems I see here are... Well first of all not having a clean and polished copper plate, using a not proper electrolyte solution in a small tank and not testing the proper voltage and amp for these conditions.

[@satibel]

from what I've seen, plating your copper base on spray paint takes 6 hours or so. after that ~15-60 min of nickel plating. the main thing for nickel plating is moving quick, you should rinse your part within 60s of taking it out, and nickel coat it right after. you also do want to protect your parts that have fine detail or are thin with a copper wire like 5-10mm away. you might also want to print an electrode holder/spacer and use copper wire to get inside the part so it's coated evenly.

[@terrain4print]

Electrical current takes the path of least resistance, right? And the copper wires holding the print is in the solution. So the majority of the current goes directly through them. What if you only submerged part of the print and made contact with the wires above the solution? Brainstorming here. Physics lesson was a very long time ago.

[@fadybenmoussa2114]

i love the early spoiler so intuitive

[@beez1598]

Might be worth trying to model some breakaway tabs to connect the alligator clips to.

[@321tryagain]

I would be interested to try: 1. Agitation of the liquid (magnetic stirrer?) 2. Lower voltages left for several days 3. Model being connected to the electricity above the electrolyte, with the model itself carrying current down onto the rest of the model (perhaps using support material)

[@mlefe09]

Thank you for this! Sometimes something sounds cool but the hassle isn't worth it... All your effort helped me understand that it's not the right time (for me) to try this ;)

[@kitchung3358]

How about resin prints; aren't those much more watertight? Do conductive resins exist? Or is there a way to dope the resin with graphite or metal powders to make it conductive? That may make it too opaque for it to print successfully so perhaps create a doped resin that would be painted on and cured with UV after printing?

[@iBlue0riginal]

You can make resin conductive by soaking it in a tin(ii) chloride solution (that will implant sb2+ ions), washing in h2o, then using any electroless plating solution on that (this will oxidize the sb2+ to sb4+ and reduce the metal to deposit it).

[@wktodd]

From my experience: plating requires good temperature control, good current control, and the part has to be in motion relative to the electrodes , stirring doesn't even out the field strength

[@hen3drik]

This!

[@wktodd]

@@hen3drik You have some superb plating there Hendrik 8⁠-⁠)

[@AllenAHat]

Great video. A chrome benchy would be cool to see but not worth too much money or time being poured into it. I like the fail early and cheaply mantra. Keep up the great content.

[@a_cook]

I did some research on plating non conductive items (leaf) and one methods was to use waterglass and graphite and to submerge the part entirely then let dry. I haven't tried it myself but that might seal the entire surface area

[@NoahKainWhittington]

Quck tip. The graphite paint will work great but you have to sand down the part after painting. Sanding down the graphite paint after applying creates uniform conductivity.

[@N.Cognito]

Keep in mind, if your going for a true Chrome plate, it uses extremely hazardous chemicals (hex Chrome) and plates at 1-2 amps per square inch, and is extremely inefficient and doesn't "throw" in to low current density areas (cavities and recesses)

[@TKTrooper]

You should try having the part being coated, like having it rotate. Also while I was looking into this myself, I found most people cover the anode with a cloth, having it open and bear effects the quality of the coat

[@Rubibi-saltwaterjim]

Thanks for your video, I'm looking to plate some fish skulls. The last bit was probably the most important, I think I'll send mine off to get plated.

[@Wraithofvolsunga]

You can make your own copper electrolyte by dissolving copper in vinegar. While it does not produce as shiny of a coat, it's good enough if copper is not your final coat. It's also less toxic (but still requires care in handling and disposal). I use it on resin prints occasionally and it works fairly well.

[@davidchesson7800]

For a look that is 75% of the way there with 5% of the work, Rub-n-Buff type wax products are handy! I have used it on miniatures and busts in the past with good results.

[@ChainsawFPV]

Did you try copper spray paint (weld thru primer) instead of graphite paint as your base layer? Edit, I watched more. Not sure what you used for paint, but U-Pol Weld #2 is the copper spray paint you want as a base. The stuff is amazing.

[@watchingwatches7863]

I don't know if Carbon fiber filament is conducive enough, but maybe give that a try. The part's will also be strong and it's not that much of a price difference I guess

[@keithyinger3326]

In some places you can go to your local hardware store and get "root killer" it is usually sold as. You have to look at the labels but sometimes it's 99.9 percent copper sulfate. 1lb of crystals for $15 or so. You can make a couple of gallons of electrolyte with a pound of copper sulfate crystals. I have electroplated some resin 3D printed stuff myself. I use a brush on graphite-based paint that seems to work pretty well. It does take a day or two for it to creep all the way around and actually electroplate a decent layer. My tank is a two and a half gallon bucket so I can fit a quite a few things hanging in there at once. As far as creating a barrier between the part and the plating by using graphite, this is true. However most of the things I plate are coated 360°. I've had some fails and tried peeling the copper off thinking I'll just throw it in my Crucible, melt it down and turn it into something else. It does peel off, but it takes a bit of working. If a part is coated on all sides, then you pretty much have to take a pair of Clippers, cut the coating, and start peeling it off with pliers. I do plate a decent layer on things so that I can run it across my buffing wheel and not just buff off the plating as well.

[@Vegetarian-tf2ru]

I don't know if this also applies here, but when coating platinum electrodes with copper to determine the amount of copper in a solution (in a practical exam of my Uni), we used a stirrplate and heated the electrolyte up to around 40 C to decreace the concentration gradient and got a better adhering coat. It also looked very nice, but the mesh made it impossible to determine if it was shiny or not Sad that we had to destroy the nice coating with concentrated nitric acid For nickel, we used 80 C and added some Ammonia (like 20+ ml of concentrated ammonia for a tiny amount of nickel) to form a complex and keep the Nickel Ion concentration down (this helps to make a more dense and adhering coat) But tbh, Electrogravimetry is terrible and it's sad that your contraption looks a lot better than the expensive yet old stuff we got in that exam (and it didn't even work that accurate, since Oxides are formed pretty fast, so you need more Metal Ions, but more Metal Ions makes the coat worse, might wanna try some copper ammonium complex, that's what I'm trying once I'll try to plate some print)

[@FineClonier]

Look into Liquid Chrome paint. It is a two part paint that will silver and can be tinted. MUCH easier and similar appearance.

[@ulaB]

Perhaps invite HEN3DRIK for a more in-depth episode? He seems to be pretty close location wise.

[@nukeelda]

Less resistance more current flow and faster process, have you tried with seasalt adding to the liquid.

[@kazolar]

There are a few makers who do this regularly. There are cosplayers who electroplate parts for an Ironman costume. Key that I've seen is finishing the part to get rid of any and all imperfections, smoother than you'd need for paint. Proper chroming is going to reveal any tiny ding.

[@madebyrasa]

Hey, I did the coated wire thing for a while, problem is the protective coating increases chloride, which is really bad. We want a specific amount. For a lot of brightener the goal is 80ppm. That's about 1 drop in a liter. After 10 plates with new wires, you're over your max ppm. Your anode will get streaks or even turn white. Eventually there is a polarization issue on the anode and you will need a huge amount of volts to see anything. Getting chloride out is not done with simple filters. Just sharing from my experience.

[@uptown.mycology9928]

The conductive plastic might be insulating itself in certain print orientations? You could try sanding a test piece, and maybe sand blasting/tumbling a benchy before the plating process. You could try nickel paints or silver mirror solution to get the best surface texture. Great vid

[@ikocheratcr]

I wonder, for the graphite spray painted part, maybe submerge only the part and not the alligator clips. You might need the part to be plated have a little extension that later will be removed to clip the alligator there. My think is that the alligator has way lower resistance than the graphite covered part, and can attract copper ions way more.

[@hippie-io7225]

Rather than use alligator clips, you might try putting cylindrical holes somewhere on your parts' .STL file. That way you could press fit the solid copper wire right up to the insulation of the wire and eliminate those bite marks.

[@en2oh]

great video - lots of 'attempts' that would drive the rest of us around the bend! That being said, you might take a look at electroless plating. Another thought is to 'activate' the surfaces with a traditional Pd solution. Stannous Chloride is also used... but not as effective as palladium chloride dips. You appear to be having trouble with "throw" in your electroplating. I don't think this improves with longer distance, but rather with 'shaped' electrodes. Thanks for sharing this!

[@3ddruck410]

im makeing my own diy elecrolyte rn, im looking forward to try electropalting with it

[@MArk-jw8tz]

Give Owen the credits he deserves for this process

[@marcus_w0]

I did exactly this, a couple of years ago. How long ago? "Celtic Skull (Hollow)" printed on a K8200 years ago. I have used a solution of isopropyl alcohol, carbon dust and acrylic paint to make the print conductive. It worked almost flawless - and It's one of my most worshiped prints up today.

[@ChinoBuchonMX]

Great video Thomas, maybe using 3d prints to press thin sheets of metal and then chrome them

[@virgilwatson]

Did you consider attaching the electrodes above the wateline? It seems like it might help to coat areas that are further away from the contact points of the clip.

[@Rebar77_real]

Run the clamp wires through a tube first to hold floaty parts under? For next time eh. There was another channel that had luck with the "mirror silvering process" style of coating. You might have better luck with that if you were to try again. AlphaPhoenix has a video called "How does a "first surface" mirror work?" where he goes through the process. Cheers from Ontario.

[@_gamma.]

I don’t care about the benchy, but a chrome xenomorph skull would be badass. Especially those teeth!

[@jardaburian3386]

Take a look at HEN3DRIK's channel, he has tutorials there, he even metal coated mandalorian helmet.

[@N.Cognito]

I've worked in electroplating for 20+ years. Welcome to my world.

[@madebyrasa]

Few more tips, b72 is a great sealer, ask for more details. Anode bags are handy.You copper bath should last years if you can take care of it.

[@freman]

I really like that copper pla mix tho, it feels so organic. Could you just put a motor on it and have it spin in the electrolyte for a while?

[@briandonovan9091]

The protopasta I have is NOT brittle or weak. You said it was old. Try drying it. I also plated mine with a few tricks. Turn the voltage up at the start and don't let any any of the copper supports get wet. You have to connect to the part, not the plating solution. It's slow to start and will easily take overnight, but that's not a huge problem is it?

[@Spartacusse]

Damn man, HEN3DRIK makes it seem so easy.

[@GamerNineSix]

Could it be that instead of coating your part you coated the cable/crocodile connector? Maybe try and connect the benchy on the chimney and and leave it sticking out of the electrolyte

[@Zackrobotheart]

I think your problem with the cracks isn't incompatibility of the primer with the copper coat but rather that using a filament drier to accelerate the paint "drying" might not be chemically the same as waiting. Paints do not just dehydrate, they chemically change too. you might be able to speed up the water or whichever solvent evaporating, but the binder still has to *cure* into the solid which is in theory much less soluble or insoluble. Basically, if paint cracks like that you probably did a coat too soon and it continued to outgas and contract a bit. Just wait longer and perhaps even skip the filament drier for primers or basecoats. edited to say, this technique is probs fine between coats of the same paint or even different colors, but more likely to cause issues between totally different paints or with a primer or base coat. Hair driers, heat guns within reason, and even a filament drier are fine to speed up the process but NOT for the time between primer and color. Wait at least overnight. And don't bother with accelerating the last coat of a certain color or the last coat of primer or the last coat before a final sealing coat. A pigment heavy paint like that copper stuff will be the most sensitive to this sort of phenomenon, but it can still be less than ideal for other paints. If you remove all the solvent before the curing finishes, it might not really cure entirely, and the solvent of the next layer restarts the curing reaction. This is a much more significant issue with say an oil painting than spray paints, but regardless its still a phenomenon that occurs, even with acrylics or latex.

[@literallykey3298]

My coworker prints a Pikachu out of PVB, electroplated it, and then dissolved the pvb. It's pretty cool, just a copper lowpoly Pikachu shell.

[@BlackTownie999]

I'd love to see a Chrome plated Benchy as well as other plastics..... Like for example in my case the outer ring around the grille of my car after I modified it for a mesh style grille

[@conorstewart2214]

Could it work better in a metal thread bag or wrapped in a metal mesh, rather than just point contacts with the crocodile clips?

[@AdventureTechnologies]

I've been able to do Chrome plating on an abs part to the point that it was so smooth that it was impossible to know it was 3d printed. You could see your reflection like a mirror.

[@KlockworXMusic]

I have done this before, its prohibitively expensive to do it right. Prep work is important, you need to seal the model well so it can't fill with solution. As you found out in your video, the graphite spray paint works, but the plating can peel off. This is sort of an issue whenever plating plastic in metal, even commercially made parts will eventually suffer this (your handle or shower head or whatever at the beginning of the video already appears to have flaked off a bit). Printing in ABS over PLA would be preferred, and the first coat should be a plastic primer (higher acetone content) will really bite the plastic and subsequent paint layers will adhere to better, it will reduce the likelihood of peeling. For condutive paint I have had great success with silver paint (not silver in colour, actual silver), MG Chemicals makes it, *its only* ~$250/can. I haven't tried their other conductive paints, but they have many (nickel, carbon, copper, etc) that may work as well and are most affordable (~$60/can). One thing I had wanted to try but never got around to is trying to coat something using something like silver nitrate, I have heard this will work on plastic, although it to has difficulties, but I am told PETG would be the material to print with for a silver nitrate method to work best with. Once you have a well bonded conductive coating you can then plate with other metals like copper, nickel, and chrome (done in that order for chrome). Alternately contact chrome shops, some have the ability to do plastics. Either way its costly and difficult to do right, so its a bit of a niche thing, but it makes the result more special in the long run, definitely reserved for very unique prints.

[@xConundrumx]

If you need to glue PLA, don't use superglue, use PMMAprofi from S-Polybond (or similar) ... it is a solvent weld liquid for acrylic that works insanely well with PLA (and some other plastics) too.

[@seabeepirate]

I know this video is old but I'm going to share anyway. A dab of dielectric grease would probably help protect the hinges. I'm not 100% sure it will stand up to the electrolyte but that's how I protect my battery terminals on lead acid batteries and the electrolyte in those is pretty harsh. Although, battery terminals are much less exposed to the electrolyte but for a much longer time so it's not a perfect comparison.

[@noviceartisan]

This was entertaining, not seen someone openly show off their fails so much for a while haha :D I spent a good year learning this process properly and still have room to learn. Keep at it you're doing well! P.S. You almost had a practical idea with that Nozzle test... Next time, try using a nickle coating bath ;) xD (You may wish to drill the end out a bit first, so you can have a thick nickle coating, then drill back to size once it's thick enough :))

[@noviceartisan]

As a tip, coat the objects with something liek polyurethene or laquer to seal it from any ingress of liquid. Then apply your conductive paint of choice. I use conductive ink from working ink in the UK (rubert murray smith is the creator), as it's better than any commercial offerings :D

[@anotheryoutuber_]

wonder if a pump in the solution bath would help

[@goeland86]

Question, did you talk to any company that offers electroplating as a service about how it would work and what recommendations they may have regarding printed parts?