Thread Insert Deathmatch! Helicoil vs TimeSert vs key locking insert vs BigSert

Have you ever wondered which kind of thread repair insert was best? Here's a battle to the death with different types of thread repair inserts. They get torqued to the point of failure and get ripped out with a hydraulic press.
If you want to skip the intro and go straight to the good stuff...
The torque tests start at 5:20.
The pull out tests start at 13:02.

[@nathanwest2304]

I know that many people here are complaining about the aluminium as testing material but helicoils/thread inserts are most commonly used for aluminium to repair stripped threads or to reinforce existing threads if you need to repair a thread with an insert in steel it is most likely that the insert will also be stronger or at least as strong as the steel. I recently fixed my oil drain plug with a helicoil cut the thread, install the insert, insert the bolt and tighten according to factory spec.

[@TheVintageEngineer]

Thank you for the video. Probably one of the best non-biased comparisons on the internet. Anytime Helicoils are brought up, Timeserts are always thrown up as a better solution. There are also videos of people talking about how timeserts are better but they are extremely biased as they sell the timesert kits. Looking at both from an engineering standpoint the biggest pro for a timesert would be the flange (to keep it from running deeper) and the more positive locking feature (swaging the end threads during insertion). A lot of people keep saying that the con to the Helicoils is that it's just a coiled wire, when in fact this is actually the advantage. Each loop/thread can move independently vs solid insert. This allows more even force on more threads. On a solid insert or bolt, the first 2 threads see 75% of the pull force. WIth a helicoil 80% of the force is spread over the first 4 coils. No bolt is perfectly nominal and neither are taps, and the helicoil can adapt to this better since it isn't as static. Plus since it's just a wire, better materials can be used to manufacture them more easily.

[@spelunkerd]

Wise words, the reason I always scan the comments section.

[@DirectorDavoPaul]

I'm so glad I read the first couple comments. This sounds right. I'm sold on this.

[@grndiesel]

I would never have bet on helicoils doing this well. Learn something new every day.

[@johnfry9010]

Thanks for a very informative video , this is the kind of stuff I often think about but have no idea how to investigate it , you have taken care of that !

[@rcj361]

Thank you very much for making this video. Makes me more confident on using helicoils over the more expensive timeserts

[@slhimages]

Thanks! Your testing technique was WAY superior to anything I could have ever done. After watching, now I have the confidence to use a helicoil to repair the threads in a brake caliper. Most of the load is sideways to the helicoil, not towards pulling out. I will monitor the repair for a while for any evidence of failure. Damn threaded aluminum ....

[@Rey-xb8no]

Give us an update on the caliper repair, I'm dealing with stripped thread on an aluminum caliper right now.

[@nigellawrance2130]

Always makes me laugh when people on forums state that Helicoils are no good.

[@TonysTechAndCars]

Thats because there not. This test only shows how weak aluminium is and not how strong the inserts are.

[@addictedtopussy69]

problem i have with helicoil is when you remove the bolt the coil comes out with it.

[@nigellawrance2130]

@@addictedtopussy69 you're installing them wrong then

[@addictedtopussy69]

@@nigellawrance2130 i'm not the only one because its not an isolated incident. Research it. The keysert is the best in my opinion.

[@poellot]

I agree. Helicoils are perfectly adequate, and perhaps better in some aplications, regardless if there is something better, they work well in anything i have used them in so far.

[@DanielCardin_ATX]

That's how you test stuff, man. Very objective. Scientific method in full effect. Fantastic video, brother! Keep up the good work!

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Interesting test. The basic Helicoil held up pretty good. sometimes low tech is better that high tech, when you factor cost and application. Thanks, you put some time into setting up this up.

[@geraldpierce4028]

An objective, well thought out and executed test video on KZbin, and with a control no less. I believe that's a first. Thank you, Kevin! By the way, I just think the left feeler was out of spec (or the right one) not your setup... ;-)

[@junkworks1]

Thanks for the time spent & the time you saved me. My truck is fixed.😁

[@markalan4026]

Thanks for the demonstration, well done!

[@spelunkerd]

What a great demo, this is so nice to see. Ultimately the base metal is the weak point, which puts a limit on any design. Helicoil did pretty well! The TimeSert did not come through with the distinct advantage we all assume and talk about. I wonder how these would perform after a few years of corrosion and galvanic reactions.

[@MrBigM555]

Excellent video. Thanks for all the work and time. Need to make a repair and, not having a lot of experience, this is exactly the kind of 'shootout' I was looking for. Technically you'd need multiple samples and a measurement systems analysis to know if your rig is truly repeatable but for any arm chair mechanic I'm sure this is far more scientific than the "hold my beer' crowd really needs. Well done!

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Thanks. I wanted to know the answers, too. The info was hard to find so I did it myself.

[@TheTruth4313]

Awesome. Thx for making this video!

[@williamrogers.]

Wow! I will use this information in my Engineering work.

[@robertthomas3907]

excellent Deathmatch! Have a striped out AL oil pan drain that need to be repaired and the timesert seems to be what most use. Great Job interesting to see the destruction.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Good testing liked it. I have removed several of those other types that had failed and install Heli-coil. Always liked Heli-Coil and have rarely seen them fail. Thanks for sharing.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Kevin, Nice testing video. I thought it was odd that the feeler always releases from the left side first. I think you may have some geometry error in the press setup that is loading the assemble off center slightly. Also technically just because the feeler comes out does not mean anything has yielded yet. The fact you have so much head room over the feeler coming out would be consistent with elastic stretching when the feeler comes out. The failures are pretty cool to watch. Fasteners typically fail when they are being torqued as opposed to pure tension loading. The shear stress is highest when trying to rotate the fastener when torquing. Fun video! All the best, Tom

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Thanks, Tom! I, too, thought it was odd that the left feeler gauge came out first. The cause has been puzzling me since I did the tests. Maybe I'll put it in backwards and try one again to see if the press is flexing or if it's a geometry issue with my rig. I stole your use of shim stock after watching the test you did. I guess it's a good thing I used one on each side. The broken bolt caught me by surprise. When doing the other tests I was standing behind the mill table. After they all pulled out I decided to grab another chunk of aluminum and stuff a BigSert in it. Then, I stood beside the camera when torquing the bolt. Scratch one camera battery cover! That's what complacency gets you. Kevin

[@wraleen]

oxtoolco that was my assumption with his constant left side issue. Your answer was/is very thorough! Well spoken... I mean typed

[@firesurfer]

@@RidgewoodMachine I have to think it's because the faces of the blocks are not machined perfectly and the aluminum blocks are giving against each other. Perhaps matching all contact faces and using steel parallels between blocks will remove the aluminum as a variable. All the aluminum faces have to be machined. Tolerance? maybe .003? This would obviously be a time-consuming exercise, as well as possibly damaging 2 sets of parallels. maybe not. Obviously, you have to check for left-right problems with the press itself.

[@cabletie69]

Thanks for the vid. Great work and valuable information.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Thanks! I just hate that the KZbin "shaky video" fix created all the weird camera zoom nonsense.

[@jymebale5545]

Great video, you should be a tester for Consumer Reports, I've known several, testing bores the hell out of me but real world application is always the best or makes you wonder how the hell it's working so well. Don't stop.

[@makinggreatbread]

Thanks! Excellent test.

[@hddm3]

Awsome test. Thank you

[@electronicatallersec9765]

Muchas gracias por aclarar mis dudas y aportar mas de lo que esperaba

[@blatif2584]

Great experiment! Very thorough and informative. What do you think of helicoil in more exotic alloys such as inconel?

[@JDawgBuilds]

Thank you! I think I'm going to try helicoil I just need to repair a stripped thread on a valve cover ~10ftlbs. Didn't how strong each one was or know which to use.

[@ls87gbody]

What would these all do in cast iron or steel?

[@addictedtopussy69]

The helicoil is strong when holding pieces together but the problem i have and many others have with helicoil is that it tends to come out when you turn counter clockwise to remove the bolt. Thats why some people use thread locker to hopefully hold the coils in but that doesn't always work. Plus you have to wait for the thread locker to dry before putting in the bolt or it'll be seized in with the red locktite.

[@Luzt.]

I'm impressed. You clearly spent a lot of time, effort and money to give this information to the public. How can anyone give a hand down - I don't know and don't understand. School teachers and technical university professors should pay you part of their money because you clearly teach more of "important stuff" in half an hour than they in a whole semester. Thank you.

[@timramich]

Even thought Time Serts show as weak in testing, I prefer them for through holes. I install them from the backside so the bolt would be trying to pull the fatter part through the counterbore. Would be interesting to see that tested.

[@TonysTechAndCars]

They don't show as weak in testing. This test was bad as aluminium is a very weak material. It should have been tested with steel.

[@blueovalfan23]

I'd be curious to see what these would do witb a large bolt and harder testing material. We use key locks at work and they seem to be pretty decent. This on waukesha heads, large and cast iron.

[@ericmowrey6872]

I greatly appreciate this video and was surprised to see how well the Helicoil stood up to its fancier competitors. I had trouble understanding the squish test. I would have been easier (to follow) had you backed off the camera at the beginning to show the entire set up instead going into close up mode right away. I hope you don't mind me saying so. Overall very good video and extremely helpful in making the right choice for those of us who aren't set up to do these types of tests. Thanks.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Eric Mowrey thanks for the feedback. This was the first video of its type I have made and it shows. One of these I'll get better at this kind of thing.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Thank you for your testing. Did I miss the point in the video where you showed how you are pulling the bolt out with a press? How are you changing the push into a pull?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I guess I didn't cover that too well. The big rectangular frame (13:37) is narrow enough to fall between the press load surfaces. The test bolt holds the aluminum to the bottom of the rectangular frame. Up close to the camera is a riser running across the press table and it has a partner in the back. On each side are the 1.75" x 3" blocks that support the aluminum. That means all 110 pounds of the fixture are hanging off that little bolt. When I press on the top of the rig that little bolt is the only thing resisting the force.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Okay

[@AgentOrange96]

Despite torquing only to spec, I managed to strip some threads where my car's exhaust manifold mounts. This actually seems consistent with the control testing in this video. I'd like to repair this properly, and had purchased some helicoils. I was debating whether I'd rather use Timeserts instead since the install seems cleaner IMO. I was also debating whether I should also do the threads that are not stripped to add strength. This seems to be the only real side-by-side. And I'm incredibly grateful it exists! What's more, it properly includes a control! From this I've decided to stick with helicoil (I'd consider big-sert if they came in stainless. Maybe I'll look around) and will indeed to all bolt holes. Thank you so much for putting this video together!

[@kevinmaharaj08]

What would u recommend to use if the bolt holding the valve spring on lt1 head pull the tread.helicoil or time sert

[@projeanant9564]

awesome video! like they say you have let the engineering facts do the talking ! how does the ns300L stack up to these? i am rebuilding my daughters and would like to make best choice

[@AJDRAGON01]

Hi, Interesting test, but the biggest complaint I have heard the most on the Helicoil is that they are more likely to break apart, and that is where the other inserts would have an advantage over the Helicoil.

[@poellot]

At home i use helicoil. At work i use the generic brand helicoil knock of. I need to purchase another set for a size i need and do not have, i was considering time sert. But after watching this i can only see one advantage that people talk about is they are better for something that is frequently disassembled. But i need it for an aluminum block small engine, it should be 30 years before i need to tear it down again if ever so ill just go with helicoil again because so far they have never let me down.

[@schmidtyschmidty5118]

It's wild how just a lil diameter makes this much difference. This month I did m10x1.5 timeserts in my M54, they're on an angle spec but the wrench said final torque was >70ftlb. One of them pulled but it was my fault for doing a crap job on it. You ran your tap by machine, right? I got myself into all kinds of trouble trying to hand drive that tap, even with that sloppy lil guide sleeve they sell...

[@grillsandaxlegrease3578]

I've tried the Heli-Coil's and TimeSerts in Corvair spark plug threads - Helicoil's a bit more work on an installed head but far superior!! Thanks for the test.

[@wraleen]

I Appreciate how thorough you were with this test. It would have been more fun had I been there to enjoy doing it myself 😕

[@jwherron]

Good info! Thank you!

[@jimmymyers7683]

Nice video, Tom Lipton did some tests on some bolts that were interesting. (torque load)

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Yeah, I stole his idea about checking the tension. I didn't have any shim stock so I used the cheapie .0015" feeler gauges instead.

[@jbammerwhiskey6450]

That proves it! Solid.

[@chamjiskykhan8252]

In this part of the world mechanists use a brass tube/pipe and using die make an outside thread on it. Then they drill the hole of slipped thread bigger and chamfer end and use moose to create inner threads in it. Then apply some two part locking compound insert the bushing and then create inner threads of the size of the bolt. These have never failed and are very strong. Can you also try it and run it through similar test? As I have never seen any thing about this in the mainstream media. Appreciate the video and subscribed

[@timoutland2446]

Excellent video comparison, I wonder if results would have been the same when adding an insert to steel? I have a wheel hub where threads are on their last legs from looking at video Big sert looks to be strongest, but that is really intended as you note in the video to be the thread repair when others have failed, would it make sense to go with the big sert from the start for lug bolt requiring 80# ft torque?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Honestly, being in the auto industry for many years I would replace the hub. I doubt the inserts would be stronger than the steel hub and you would be introducing another possible point of failure into a rather critical piece of the car.

[@stephanalohaatgmail]

Loved it... THANKS!!!

[@brianpruitt1015]

It seems to me that on the first test it was the aluminum failing, not the product being tested. I am in the garage drinking, so I might be wrong.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Brian Pruitt yes, the inserts pulled out of the aluminum. The idea was to see which held the best. Did you see the damage to the TimeSert?

[@stevej8478]

Just read your reply Brian and you are correct. Now go have another drink LOL

[@preludepatrick]

I used a Helicoil to repair a stripped bolt hole for a mount on aluminum Honda transmission. As expected, everyone on the Honda forum I was on was like "It might work but timesert is better blah blah blah". I was able to reach full torque on the bolt (28 lb-ft) and I've been running the helicoil repaired hole for years without issue. The transmission mounts use very stiff rubber and a lot of vibration gets transferred into the chassis. Couldn't be happier w the helicoil

[@TheObersalzburg]

I first became aware of Timeserts in the late 90's when the Cadillac Northstars were coming apart with pulled bolts and corrosion. General Motors specified Timeserts for Northstar block repairs. I never heard why HeliCoils weren't recommended, but maybe there was Corporate interest in promoting Timeserts? Up until then, Helicoils were all I knew, especially in racing.

[@victorg9974]

Hi, good instructive video. May I ask you which method would you recommend when the damaged thread is short? I have seen thread repairs on long threads, say over 1 cm. But if my thread is only about 3 or 4 mm? many thanks

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Victor G that's a pretty tough call without knowing everything involved like material, size, load, etc. Honestly, I'm no expert on these things. this video was made to settle my own curiosity.

[@Chris-uh3cm]

Awesome video!!!!!!

[@Shawn-ho6de]

Is the engagement of each insert identical? How about the Keensert (heavy duty or thin walled). Great Video

[@jimmonte9826]

Thanks for a great video! It would have been good to repeat the experiments a few times with each repair method to check for variation, but at least there were two related tests for each condition. I was not impressed with the BigSert -- if you make the hole much bigger it is not surprising at all that the joint is stronger. Often that is not an option due to space constraints. The Helicoil repair clearly was best among the holes of a similar size. While a solid bushing seems like it would make a strong repair. the wall of the bushing reduces the amount of possible external thread due to its thickness.

[@mickymondo7463]

The whole point of the Bigsert is for repairing threads that have already been repaired once before, so a standard insert will not work, I wouldn't use one unless the previous repair had failed, or some muppet has tried drilling a busted bolt and gone off centre and made a total mess of it.

[@dive2663225]

very informative thanks

[@thelongranger55]

I wonder what would happen if you install the Time-Sert in a through hole but do the pull test from the opposite side , I seen a comment & someone mentioned to do the same thing but with Heli-coils

[@lazal3m]

Would you recommend Helicoil for a Cylinder Head Bolt Hole fix? I'm planning to stack 2 helicoils, use ARP Head Studs and torque to factory specs 49lb-ft. Thanks!

[@skylinefever]

Some people like to drill and tap their cylinder block for oversized head studs, rather than use thread repair on their existing head bolt holes.

[@rideordiepunisher3936]

Hi can you put 1 time sert inside another time set thanks

[@c69101]

Good video thanks.

[@haircutboys]

Good tests. How about running your test on the "EZ LOK solid threaded insert for metal", the one with the pre-applied red adhesive?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

David Hale send me a couple of them in 8x1.25 and I'll run them.

[@haircutboys]

Super! Thanks for being open to that. I don't have any right now -- I'm trying to decide whether or not to use them -- but if I can pick some up I'll get back to you.

[@kevinmaharaj08]

Question? So witch one would u recommend to use one and engine head thats holding down the valve spring on a lt1 camaro..

[@fasnuf]

Seems like the Bigsert isn't an apples to apples since of course it has more circumfrence contact. I'm surprised the Helicoil did better than the Timesert which was recommended to me for a repair I need to do. I think I may just use Helicoil on my job.

[@332ARA]

What about EZ Lock? I like these because they install with a screw driver

[@ls87gbody]

Also which kind do you recommend to repair a crankshaft that had a balaner bolt broken off in it? I wanna fix it and trust your judgment.

[@ls87gbody]

Its the big balancer bolt btw

[@Wyldwulf]

I have purchased a set of Helicoil inserts to fix stripped out threads on a guitar bridge's fine tuners. These are actively used as adjustments and the mild steel of the original tapped hole just eventually wore out. Is there a specification or test for the durability of these inserts against active use and friction wear? All I know to do is grease up the Helicoil and hope for the best.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I honestly haven't got a clue. This test was intended to satisfy my curiosity and I thought others might enjoy it, too.

[@orangeshell8]

What is the left side always fail first

[@mozzmann]

Excellent Video Kevin, I have often wondered at which is better and have favored a threaded insert over a helicoil simply because the coil is not solid an I suspect that the grip might not be as good as threading a sleeve such as a bigsert style replacement thread . We all have to remember that alloy is inherently soft and has limitations, but in general a Helicoil if employed properly is very reliable , depending on the location and usage, especially if there is no room to cut a larger thread and use a steel insert. I myself favor a steel threaded insert if there is room for the appropriate thread to be cut so that can be done , but helicoil's work , it's that simple.

[@pedcas5715]

Why that cross bar is on top of the other one on left sid?

[@jasonbell5905]

All the inserts work fine in different applications. I feel you should call your test aluminum stress test.

[@le3045acp]

i will say that if the insert has a piece of metal to hit it will swell some and tighten itself up in the case of the helicoil at least that is the way it was explained to me nice test

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I wanted to test the inserts by themselves without the benefit of another piece holding it down.

[@michaelhenderson5428]

Important factors such as temperature cycling, dissimilar metals, thread/insert diameter, installation techniques and etc.are not considered here.

[@2muchUT]

While Brembo calipers are great for stopping cars, they have a known issue with the steel mount bolts seizing in the aluminum caliper mount holes. Would you recommend these inserts as a good repair option?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I see no problem running the Helocoil.

[@treeguyable]

At 5:30, AvE would have said: Focus, ya fock!

[@stonemason9063]

he probably would've made some testing rig as well using that hydraulic ratchet to find exact failure points

[@raymondrodriguez1766]

i need a helicoil 1/2''x20 thread were can i find one

[@jeffriley8457]

First, thank you for this video, I was leaning toward Time-serts but I'm going to use Helicoils now. QUESTION: I have a stripped hole for a head bolt; M11x1.25, 80mm deep hole, 60mm of threads in bottom. If I stack these (4, for a total of 60 mm Helicoil threads) does the torque and load capacity increase? As someone without a lot of experience I'm guessing yes, but I'd like to get the opinion of someone with your experience.

[@johnwahl6301]

Helicoil makes longer inserts than the ones that come with the kits, but I had trouble finding anyone that sells them. Finally found a place in the UK, waiting for them to come in. Going to try repairing M11 x 1.5 threads for a Toyota head bolt. Not sure how you would stack shorter inserts, since the deep end of each coil bends across the bolt-hole so the special bolt that drives in the insert can get a grip and turn the insert. Seems like having those sticking out into the bolt hole in a stacking scenario would not work.

[@DrewDiddy7703]

Great Review Video...I’m about to use a Helicoil repair on some Subaru oil pump holes...I found out I needed the M6x1mm kit, After purchasing an IRWIN brand 6mm x 1mm repair kit...I assumed that 6mm was the Same as M6 but it’s Much smaller in diameter. Would you happen to know the Metric equivalent to M6?

[@johnlear6328]

Nice demonstration, but most oil pan drain plugs torque at about (22 ft-lb). Still interesting to see how much aluminum can handle. Most people don't use a torque wrench and over tighten most of the time, which damages the inner threads of said oil pan over time or at the time depending on how over tightened it is/was.

[@CH-py8zv]

These inserts are designed to repair or reinforce thee existing threads, i daught they actually see those maximum loads in real life. In aerospace i used the heli coil quite often to reinforce the threads in the 7075 T6 to reduce the wear and tear of the aluminum threads. Good video tho. 👍

[@codenamecordon]

Do you have a theory as to why timeserts were worse than helicoils? As far as I’ve searched, timeserts are praised more but obviously they held less in your test. I’m looking to beef up my 10mm head bolt/stud threads in my aluminium block engine, so I’m looking for the best option.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

My opinion is the cast metal of the Timesert is not as robust as the wire used for Helicoils. Every Timesert failure showed the insert being destroyed where the other brands either stretched or pulled out intact.

[@livetubing]

Great video! I’ve stripped the threads of my motorcycle’s oil drain hole, the bolt diameter is 10mm and about 12mm long. Which option would you recommend for this application? Thanks in advance

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Personally, I'd drill it out and tap it with a 1/4" BSP or NPT taper tap to accept a tapered blanking plug (if theres enough "meat")... they usually take an allen key & they seal very well, are almost impossible to strip the threads ... but if you over-tighten in a light housing they can cause a crack... but I would still prefer 'em.. 🙄😂 BTW ... I LOVE helicoils... but not where oil-sealing is required...

[@heikopanzlaff3789]

There are specific oil drain hole repair kits designated for that size / application...

[@rodneyfama6399]

my 06 lly the oil cooler was leaking. so i thought. removed it and low and behold a idiot had been here before. the 8mm x 1.25 stud on the engine adapter plate for the oil cooler elbow had come out. apparently there repair using a heli coil did not hold. they used what looks like jb weld as well. also appears they drilled partly into the water jacket. i believe the reason for the jb weld. i drilled and tapped it out to 10mm x 1.25 reassembled the oil cooler and installed it into the freshly tapped hole. after filling the partially penetrated water jacket with water weld epoxy from jb weld..it failed. i installed helicoil it failed so now its time sert ,big sert or recoil. which one would you recommend thanks in advance

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I would do a Timesert because it's solid and should not leak if the threads are sealed.

[@lazerusmfh]

I’ve seen with the time Serts if use a 20 thou undersized drillbit than what the manual calls for you will get Performance on par with the Helicoil

[@thelongranger55]

First time I’m seeing this kind of comment, are you saying that they made their drill bit in the kit to big ? , just got done installing 20 Time-Serts but they were so damn expensive it’s hard to sleep knowing I could have saved money with Heli-coils but something in me can’t trust the “Spring “ design . I was attracted to the “ solid insert “ aspect of the Time-Serts design among other things like the fact they expand into the workpiece & they only go as deep as you want them too during installation because the drill bit cuts a seat for it to rest on .

[@MrJoeyplatinum]

Please give me some info where I can learn who makes the absolute best taps and the best drill bits for removing broken fasteners......I have small applications....6mm - 12mm. I just realized grade 8 fasteners are waaay too hard for off the shelf drill bits.....I bought some Champion/Brute and they are amazing...... but being new to this hardened stuff I’m list.....thank you.

[@MrJoeyplatinum]

Thank You for such a great video....

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I use Cleveland left handed drills for broken bolts. Use moderate pressure and speed. They will dig in, grip the bolt, and spin it right out.

[@willagresham2978]

Great video. One thing that I would find interesting is torque beyond spec, remove bolt and retorque. In the field, this could be common during maintenance and repair. So say a 250lb gorilla torqued the 1/4" bolt to 45ft lbs on the helicoil, how would it stand up the next go around? I purchased Acme keylock inserts based off of field experience. It was nice to see the parent material failing before the insert. Thanks for taking the time to make this.

[@stevehammel2535]

Thank you for the video. I was going to use stainless steel Helicoils but was talked out of using them. The voice on the other end of the phone said to use Time-Serts instead. After seeing the video I don't see any reason not to use Helicoils on my project.

[@paulcopeland9035]

Very interesting. Over the years, I have used Heli-Coil very successfully. However, i always seem to get the Time-Sert argument and was ready to step up and try them on the next repair. In your case, it sounds as if the "voice on the other end of the phone" may sell Time-Serts. However, this test shows the Time-Serts to be nearly double the price of Heli-Coil and do not perform as well. Heli-Coil remains my choice. This reminds me of the various penetrating oil tests that have been published recently. The famous and hallowed Kroil, at 3 to 4 times the price of other common penetrants, did not out perform and in some cases failed to match the competing oils. This is a perfect example of the value of independent testing.

[@marxseet]

Whatever sert you put in, eventually it is still the aluminium thread that is holding it. Once the outer thread (aluminium) it is dstroyed, the sert just have nothing to hold on to. But if you were to be able to increase the thickness of the sert or even glued the sert with JB weld, the stress will be transferred to the bolt and having the smaller diameter it will just break. This is pure physic as the force has to go somewhere.

[@rickyrickharris4908]

Wait you said the big sert broke the bolt. Isn't that good. Meaning it held so god the bolt broke or did you say that wrong?

[@deweydodo6691]

Which one is failing the aluminum stock from holding the insert or the insert itself ? I would like to have seen a cast iron block test .

[@RidgewoodMachine]

All of the inserts pulled out of the aluminum. The Time-Sert was broken up when it pulled out. I, too, would like to have seen tests in iron, mild steel, stainless, and other materials. This test was laid out to come in just under the maximum capacity of my proving ring. I could easily do it again in other materials but I have no way to measure the pressure involved. Trashing stuff with hydraulics would be pointless without measurement.

[@deweydodo6691]

if in the case like 1/2" head bolts torqued to the rated engine specs would hold solid that would be my concern .

[@RidgewoodMachine]

That should not be a concern. In the tests I performed an 8mm bolt was holding 9,000 lbs of force in tension. When it comes to torque, all of the thread inserts exceeded the specification for the bolts. When you stuff them in iron the limits should be higher than they are in the aluminum I tested.

[@kujo78]

Are you using 1.5*DIA helicoil inserts?

[@kujo78]

Oh I see. You answer that at 30:30

[@richardballinger517]

Is the bolts specified maximum in steel not aluminium?

[@matjow7340]

It was a really long video. So, what was the ultimate conclusion? Which insert was the strongest and the best?

[@dylancrow7919]

You should try two bolts with one feeler gage between them.

[@sterlingwitherspoon5709]

Are the threads coming out because you didn’t not use loctite?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Loctite would not have an appreciable impact in this test. The inserts are coming out because the aluminum is tearing or the insert is stressed beyond its limits.

[@coreymarinello2344]

something on your setup cant be centered cause the left side fails first on every sert / control

[@RidgewoodMachine]

diy-pc-mods coming-soon - I noticed that, too. It was written off to the cheap Harbor Freight press. The good thing is that it was consistent.

[@stanwardoshiro]

Torque Test Channel just released a video on comparing thread repair solutions. Similar results, time-serts aren’t as great as coiled thread insert.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I just watched it. He went much deeper than my simple test. However, he ended up testing weaker 8.8 bolts to failure. I used 12.9 bolts and tested the inserts to failure. His video has far better production value and drama of flying parts. Mine is far more boring but I prefer the results I achieved.

[@stanwardoshiro]

@@RidgewoodMachine I originally watched your video last year and I was shocked that the time-Sert was inferior to the helicoil. I asked Project Farm if he could do some tests. Ironically both Torque Test Channel and Project Farm released videos for both of their tests (on the same day).

[@hddm3]

I still like them

[@charliewessel5320]

So my torque specs are 31 ft.lbs. on my drain plug… How can any of these options even work effectively? The margin of error is extremely small if i am to torque it to spec. It seems like the aluminum would definitely fail, and the helicoil would be close to failing. And i have 2 stripped oil pans now for the same bike… so im getting pretty frustrated and confused about my options…

[@charliewessel5320]

Should i just go straight for a bigsert?

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Different sizes will have different torque limits. Larger is generally higher.

[@chassull857]

It would be nice to hear what you're saying

[@CRAntoniak]

What I was looking for: Manufacturer's listed pull-out strength in 6061 aluminum: HeliCoil = 10,116 lbs; KeenSert = 9,239 lbs; TimeSert = no manufacturer listing

[@RidgewoodMachine]

That was why I did this test. No listing on Timesert and a math formula from KeenSert.

[@CRAntoniak]

I'm glad you took the initiative. It was well done and very helpful for me.

[@reginaldmorton2162]

You have to do the same test with studs

[@zennsx]

This test indicates a standard tapped thread in 6061 Aluminum will have a holding force of 5000 pounds and the Helicoils create a wedging effect and go beyond that .

[@RidgewoodMachine]

Look at the results again. The threads pulled out of the 6061 at a force that was about 10% less than the Helicoils. The inserts extended the strength but not by a great margin.