Thread Sizes & Irons COMPARED. What do you need? Super Easy Approach for LEATHERWORKERS.

In this video I dive into the subject of stitch spacing and thread thickness. Which combination is "best" and which one should you go with if you are just starting out in leatherwork and looking to make bags or wallets.
Pricking Irons vs Thread Sizing Chart:
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🔎 CHAPTERS 🔍
0:15 Overview
1:42 What I Use
2;13 My Recommendation
3:18 Two Considerations
3:40 3.38mm Irons
4:53 5mm Irons
2:45 Styles of Irons
7:02 Recap
7:40 Disclaimer
8:14 Final Thoughts
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#leathercraft #threadsizes #leatherworkers

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Let me know in the comments what you think. Do you like the 0.45/5mm? Hate it? Cheers Justin

[@jameslawrence9167]

Great video Justin. Thanks for showing. It's very subjective but I don't like how sparse the .45 is on the 5mm. I absolutely love the .55 on the 3.38. I like the tighter yet still defined look of this combo. I've only got 3.85 and 3mm frenchies and this video has made it quite clear what thread I should and shouldn't be using. Cheers bud

[@NorfolkHandmade]

So subjective! I’m still undecided on the 0.45/5mm. But it’s certainly fun to experiment. I’m glad the video helped.

[@lovelife16309]

This was an excellent video, thank you

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks!

[@hamedalharthy2767]

Great information Simple and to the point, thank you very much for sharing this video

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks for watching!

[@jgdevoe]

Pretty much agree with your choices. Not sure what the difference is between Japan irons versus those Tandy diamonds.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

They are very similar. The Japanese tooth profile is more rounded and smoother out vs the diamond irons. It’s almost a hybrid between the diamond and French profile.

[@Ray.J]

Nice representation of the differences between stitch spacing and thread sizes. There's a lot more to the end result that maybe you could cover on a future video or videos. The type of thread also matters. Round, linen thread versus flat, braided polyester, for example. When I use them, they yield different results even when using the same irons. Since you asked for feedback, I prefer the appearance of the 3.38mm irons and the 0.45mm or 0.55mm thread. To me, there's way too much hole left visible in the 5mm and 0.45mm/0.55mm combination. Holes are necessary, but I feel better when they are less prominent. I also would have liked to have seen the backside of the samples. Both sides matter. And of course, stitching technique matters. So in the end, good stitching is a synergy of an array of products and techniques. Not easy to explain in a short time. That's why Nigel Armitage released the 4 part series on saddle stitching, definitely worth watching to be able to really understand what goes into saddle stitching and why. I enjoy your content, keep it up!

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks for the feedback. I tried to keep this one simple because I think a lot of people drastically over complicate the matter. That’s why I left out the actual technique, that’s for another video. I personally think the vast majority of people don’t need to consider all the variables that are covered in Neil’s video. I think it’s videos like that that make new leatherworks think it’s more complicated than it is. When I started out Neil was a valuable resource. Know that I do this full time I realize how simple it can be, there’s no need to overcomplicate the matter and a 4 hour series on it is very much over complicating the matter even if it’s perfectly accurate…which of course it is.

[@Ray.J]

@@NorfolkHandmade I agree that sometimes too much information can be overwhelming. Nigel's video series is more for those wanting to take that deeper dive. You can have success by keeping things simple, no doubt. However, it helps to understand, really understand the process in order to make corrections. Sometimes folks stuggle and have no clue as to why. Nigel's videos explain the why. That's all. Maybe you can do a short video covering the basics of saddle stitching as you do it. You do it quite well.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Exactly right. His videos are incredible for the depth they go into. Extremely helpful for people that can absorb a lot of content or for anyone that wants to refine their technique. I plan on doing more single topic videos with a focus on the new leatherworker. I appreciate your comments. 👍🏻

[@balticleathersupply]

The “Disclaimer” 💯💯💯 FACTS

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Had to put that just for the know it all’s.

[@ToddJohnson15]

I think this also depends on the thread. I have .6mm and .8mm Ritza Tiger thread, which is flat instead of round. I find that because the thread is flat .6mm is still too big for a 3.38 mm iron.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

For sure, the ritza thread flattens out quite a bit after hammering.

[@chrisczub4930]

Beginner here, when you say you're using pricking irons does that mean they only mark the leather and then you need to poke through with an awl? Or are you hammering them all the way through?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

This is one of those cases where old terminology has carried over to modern technology. Almost all the irons you find together are intended to pierce the leather through, we still use the term “pricking iron” even though they do more than prick the leather. A more appropriate term is “Stitching Chisel” but most suppliers use that even in reference to diamond irons only. It’s safe to say the vast majority of leatherworkers today are punching straight through and if they aren’t they will say so.

[@amandalipp728]

Super helpful. I'm new to leather. What about needles? Trying to understand the relationship between holes, needles, & thread. With 4mm pricking + .6mm thread, what type harness needle please?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

John James #2 or #4 will probably work fine.

[@motoservo]

But wait, isn’t diamond and Japanese the same thing?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Not exactly. Diamond irons have a diamond shape…obviously. Japanese style have a more rounded diamond shape, kind of a mix between French and diamond.

[@joannewittenbrook8051]

I love the idea of creating a reference sample.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

It’s come in handy a few times.

[@Jamie-k7e7e]

Thank you! I saved a screen shot for reference!🙋🏼‍♀️

[@NewApologist]

where’s the chart?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

There’s a link in the description, scroll to the bottom you’ll see the thumbnail for the video and the download button below that.

[@jesscardona2335]

Hi, I truly enjoyed how well you explained the spacing and the stitching. So I wend on different website and the numbers don’t see to be the same as you explain. Where do you purchase your threads? It will be most helpful…thanks!

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Some companies use different numbering systems for their thread and irons. I purchased Meisi from Pro Atelier Plus.

[@jesscardona2335]

@@NorfolkHandmade - I just took a peek at the website. I didn’t know they where linen threads. Most of the videos I have seen tend to recommend the polyester blend thread stating it’s stronger. Im trying to be brave and make my son a wallet.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Linen Thread is a natural thread, poly is synthetic. If linen thread is properly waxed it will be just fine for many many years. Keep in mind it was around long before poly threads, and, if people like Peter Nitz use it, I imagine it is good for most. That said, I do encourage everyone to try a variety, what works for me might not work for you.

[@avalargo2194]

Great video. Great explanation and closed up, clear examples, where we can see clearly, what you are explaining.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks!

[@itspowne]

Hello!! Thank you VERY much for the video, I always felt lost while looking at Irons, and you made it very easy for me! One question: what type of needles can I use for a 0.55mm thread? Even those sizes seem to be all over the place. And thanks again for all the info

[@NorfolkHandmade]

I’m glad it helped. You are looking for needles with a diameter of 0.8-0.9mm. Depending on what brand you go with each will have a different size range. The length of the needle will be between 48-54mm.

[@MattGarofolo]

Excellent for us beginners! Thank you

[@NorfolkHandmade]

That’s great, thanks for watching.

[@epicurustaylor5954]

Yes I'm new so this was definitely for me. It was great, highly informative without being a shill for some company. It really answered a lot of my question about starting out. I hope you will make more vids in this informative format.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

That’s great, I’m glad it was helpful.

[@V3leathercraft]

Hi, I use only Braided Polyester Thread. I found good aesthetic look are For 3.85 mm-0.8mm 12ply, 3.38mm-0.5mm 8ply (for wallets and Card Holders)and 2.7mm-0.35mm 6ply threads (for watch straps)(All French Style ). For Bags I use 6mm Round hole irons with 0.8mm 12ply Braided Polyester Thread. Hope anyone would feel helpful. Thanks🙏🏾

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks for sharing!

[@paulocruz8585]

Excellent video. In my opinion, I prefer 0.55/5mm. It fills the iron hole more. thanks for sharing.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Agreed, a solid choice.

[@patriotcam1776]

I ha e gotten more out of your videos in a day than I have in the 2 plus years I have been leathercrafting. Thanks so much for a proper explanation of things

[@NorfolkHandmade]

That comment makes my day. It’s exactly why I do this.

[@BushRat253]

I really appreciate the help picking my first pricking irons!

[@freakofnatureco]

Loved this video! Question.. where do you buy your thread?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks! I get Meisi from Pro Atelier Plus (although there are a few suppliers), and I get ritza from Tandy.

[@saint-miscreant]

📌 *TIMESTAMPS* _for my own reference (I know they're in the description, but these are customised for my brain 😁)_ 1:45 - Side-by-side visual of 3.38 and 5mm spacing samples 3:22 - Consideration 1: Thread Gap 3:30 - Consideration 2: Backstitch appearance 3:40 - Breakdown: 3.38mm iron 4:54 - Breakdown: 5mm iron 7:03 - Recap + Thoughts / Close-up side-by-side

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Amazing!

[@theshuriken]

very informative, thanks!!

[@JohnGilbert-l5l]

Thanks !

[@MsCybernet]

Thank you very much for the excellent explanation. Thank you for using the international measurement system (millimeter).

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks for watching. It seems to be the most consistent measurement system and the one most people understand.

[@ScottMcCormick12358]

Thanks for the video. I wish you had used the same color on each of the thread sizes to make the comparison easier.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks, if you download the free guide on my site you can print it out in black and white. That would get you closer. 👍🏻

[@permadhiarya8326]

Very nice content !! Btw the "S" letter on the spacing word are upside down lol 🤣

[@NorfolkHandmade]

🤣 I somehow didn’t noticed that until after stamping. Figured I’d leave as a little Easter egg for the observant ones.

[@edusszfx]

It's hard to find videos with this quality, going over spacing and threas! Super appreciated!

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Thanks! I’m happy you found it helpful. I found this topic to be very confusing when I first started. I made the video that would have helped me. 👍🏻

[@HouseholdDog]

Thanks for this. You saved a lot of time for me.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

I’m glad it helped.

[@richj5762]

Thanks, for the informative video.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

Your welcome!

[@k-12clothing23]

Finally, a clear explanation. Thank you.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

You’re welcome, glad it helped.

[@Notorious2024]

Question. What would your preference be if you only had one set of irons, the Japanese or European style?

[@NorfolkHandmade]

French style irons are my preference. But only because I prefer a finer stitch. But for certain projects the Japanese irons are a better choice.

[@itsruf1]

Good grief. This hobby aint for nickle dimes.

[@NorfolkHandmade]

This hobby is however you want it to do. There are a lot of ways to get into this hobby on the cheap. This is a very valid question and one that should be considered when you are first starting out.