Tim Worthington RGB Mod Install

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[@DrSchnaggelz]

Incredible, clean installation! Is this a PAL system? What kind of Cable do you recommend using your wiring method? I have a pal gamecube rgb and pal snes cable, but I get a very noisy picture after installing the board. I'm using a Retrotink4k to connect it to the TV btw.

[@SLRModShop]

Hi, it was most likely a PAL console but it honestly doesn't matter, this mod re-makes the entire video circuitry anyway. I was using PAL Gamecube RGB cables. If it's noisy, I'd suspect a few things (from most likely to least likely): A/ non-shielded cable B/ bad ground connection C/ bad power supply

[@otmshank4778]

This is THE number one best tutorial for this. Clean soldering, professionally tinned, everything! BTW what ribbon cables are you using and at what degree and how did you tin them so perfectly without even having to separate them. I singed mine multiple times before I got it right and let me tell you, it works but it ain't pretty. Anyhow, kudos for the great work.

[@SLRModShop]

Thanks! Not sure about the ribbon, I get so many strips with my mod kits that I never had to buy any. My go-to temp is 330°C (~626°F). I sometimes apply too much heat while tinning them and have to cut off a small chunk and retry. Not sure if I have a secret technique on that one, I'm using flux paste, that's what does most of the job. I never tried without flux but I'm pretty sure I would have a very bad time...

[@otmshank4778]

I see. The single wires look almost like they have some kind of rubber tubing. Would really love to see a proper prepping tutorial for such small stuff. Most people just write "do this" and "tin that" without mentioning how and that the prep work is actually the most important part.

[@Oceanandskylinevidss]

@@otmshank4778 yup that's actually what I went through, so my first time was harder than it had to be.

[@hellbillymods45]

Oh my, you've been busy! I'm at the Atari RGB Tim mod again, now that I got a replacement 40-pin and 20-pin and thank God they were the same size. I'm done soldering the board and the rainbow cable to extras, now it's suffering through the guide to get everything else and avoid the weird separate 3.5mm audio jack. Wish me luck!

[@SLRModShop]

Good luck mate! Make sure to check if the mod isn't shorting +5V and GND! We never know

[@hellbillymods45]

@@SLRModShop I'll check it, thank you for the heads up and all the help via email that you have given me over time and now, I appreciate your patience and helpfulness.

[@SuperIronDan]

The biggest question for me is how he strip those small cable so perfectly.

[@SLRModShop]

With an exacto knife (carefully cutting the insulation on both sides), then a flush cutter to remove the insulation. A bit time consuming but the cleanest result I could achieve. The key is to not overdo it. It's very easy to cut the wires with both the knife and the flush cutter. I was failing one in five times on average.

[@totalprocall6894]

Lovely work. Interesting that both sync options are used (75ohm and ttl).

[@SLRModShop]

It's based on what it's in the cables you're going to use. Simple to check though, open the SCART head and if there is no 470Ohm resistor, then you need to use CS75 (already attenuated)

[@emmettturner9452]

I’m glad Tim’s N64RGB kit gives us so many options. The way SLR Mod Shop implemented them gives you proper C-Sync with just about any RGB cable that fits including Sync on Luma, NTSC JP21, GameCube SCART, HD Retrovision, RAD2X, etc.

[@Diza_X]

IDK where to ask, but I have one question: are there any different boards for PAL N64 RGB? This one seems reasonably priced. I'm too tired to fight with S-Video, my N64 freaks out with properly wired cables and not every TV supports this connector.

[@SLRModShop]

Hi, yes, there are quite a few. Tim Worthington's board is the best quality/price. The installation is quite involved, as you can see, but the result is outstanding and deblur is a nice bonus.

[@Diza_X]

@@SLRModShop Thank you for your response ♥ I'm allergic to composite video, I'll save some money for that board

[@davidhimes3796]

What's the reasoning for wiring the PIF pins 4 and 26 to M and A? From my end, it seems like A and GND can control Deblur, but I can't reckon this config.

[@SLRModShop]

It's for the controller. It let's you enable/disable DeBlur and 15Bits modes using a combination of buttons.

[@jestamon]

Lord voulter would be proud

[@SLRModShop]

I owed him quite a few techniques. And he got to compliment me on my videos a few times.

[@mlance1777]

Did you hardwire the deblur option to always on? If so how?

[@SLRModShop]

You can, I don't remember how but you can definitely do it. However, I would advise against that as it's not really compatible with every game (Goldeneye being a good example). If you solder it the way I do it, you will be able to control it with the controller.

[@samuraispiritsx]

on the av port what kind of wire did you use?

[@SLRModShop]

Silicon. They come in boxes with 5 spools of different color. Cheap Chinese wires but in this case, they do the job just fine. Make sure to take silicon ones, heat doesn't affect silicon, makes it a joy to work with.

[@samuraispiritsx]

@@SLRModShop do you have a link to everything you used? This video is one of the most clean mod installs I've ever seen.

[@joshmiller887]

This is exactly what I needed! Will this wiring work for my sync on luma scart cable? Fantastic routing. Thanks for the video!

[@SLRModShop]

Okay, not sure about the purpose but closing J1, J2 and J3 halves the resistance on RGB lines... Not sure why, from the SCART pinouts that I can find, NTSC SNES and Gamecube have some 220µF caps whereas PAL SNES doesn't and has some pull down resistors so... No idea what's the reasoning behind these jumpers. Never had to use them personally

[@emmettturner9452]

It looks like he disabled stock Luma and ran CS# (TTL C-Sync) to both the AV multi-out’s Luma and C-Sync pins. If your equipment tolerates or attenuates TTL there then it should work.

[@TheKonsolist]

Nice soldering. In comparison my solderwork is pretty shady😉. But as long as it works, it's fine with me.

[@SLRModShop]

Electrons aren't pedantic, if they can find a way, they will be happy =)

[@emmettturner9452]

Very nice work, as usual, but I’m curious to know why you disabled Luma for a redundant signal (CS#). Is it just to give proper sync to Sync on Luma cables? I’d rather have the additional signal and re-pin my cable to get C-Sync from one of the other pins. ;)

[@SLRModShop]

It's so every type of cable gets Csync. Don't forget that these consoles go to people who can't make modifications themselves ;)

[@emmettturner9452]

@@SLRModShop Yes, of course. You already had a guy asking if it would work with his Sync on Luma cables, so you are definitely right to consider it. Still, I figure their Sync on Luma cable should continue to work just as well as ever without CS#. If they are using an Extron Crosspoint or something that wants pure C-Sync then it wouldn’t have worked before either. It’s the kinda thing I can always change before shipping to a buyer but your method can definitely skip that dialog. :) I assume most people who know about or care about the difference between CVBS Sync, Sync on Luma, and C-Sync are often the types who can move a pin on their cable to preserve functionality. If not, they can ask me or get another cable. ;) Since there is no CVBS in this case I guess preserving functionality wouldn’t be a priority anyway so maximizing compatibility with existing RGB setups/cables does make sense. I may adopt this practice too. Thanks!

[@SLRModShop]

@@emmettturner9452 The vast majority of people don't understand any of that anyway. I'd rather huge a "broad Csync brush" than having to explain why their setup doesn't work. Whenever I have to explain Csync and what not, I feel like a snake oil salesman. I'm not lying but if I did, I'd probably sound just the same ^-^ But from time to time I get a customer that knos exactly what he wants, feels a bit weird. Because then I feel the need to make sure they understand it propely without being patronizing. Seriously, I spend more time explaining the N64 video output to people than actually modding them...

[@DevPatryck]

So I'm about to do this job and wanted to know the correct pinouts to solder to the pure CSync cable. can you help me?

[@emmettturner9452]

@@DevPatryck Sure can. :) When you flip the console over with the front of the board still toward you all the RGBS connections are on the right. Since you already have RGB, the last one is S. Edit: So C-Sync would go to Pin 3 right next to the pin marked “1”. On some board revisions it’s even marked with an “S.” NUS-CPU-01, NUS-CPU-02, and NUS-CPU-03 boards will already have C-Sync connected. If you want C-Sync from the N64RGB board on those consoles it is best to remove some of the extra components like R1, R14, R15, R16, and C22.

[@JumperTL]

I am a little confused when it comes to the AV pins. I have a PAL N64, and my hope is so I can use the same RGB to SCART cable for both my PAL N64 and PAL Gamecube (Pal GCs suppert RGB). My AV multiout port has the 3rd pin (S) that looks like its connected to nothing (unlike the one in this video). Does anyone have tips when it comes to the Sync pin?

[@SLRModShop]

Hi, PAL Gamecube cables are sync on composite so you need to send sync on pin 9. However, if you're using a cable that isn't fully shielded, composite will cause interference so I would recommend to cut the trace going to pin 9. That way, you will have sync alone in pin 9, you'll have Csync (despite what your cable says it is). You need to send Csync75 by the way as there is no attenuation on the sync line in PAL Gamecube cables. Let me know if this is confusing, we'll deal via emails so we'll be able to send pics back and forth.

[@JumperTL]

@@SLRModShop So just a quick summary: To correcly wire sync, I need to wire pin 9 (V) to the CS75 pin on the RGB board? The cable I’m going to get states that it is fully shielded, so could I at the beginning try to not cut the trace to pin 9? (not sure how to do that. I’m pretty new to this). And if the signal shows artifacts I may contact you via mail and send some pictures?

[@SLRModShop]

@@JumperTL 100% correct. CS75 to pin 9 and it should work. The interference I'm talking about is a crosshatch pattern all over the screen that you can't miss. If you don't see that, you have a clear picture on screen, you have succeeded.

[@JumperTL]

​@@SLRModShop thanks a lot for the help! Going to buy the RGB Board now, so going to be some time before I can rapport back :)

[@JumperTL]

@@SLRModShop One more thing 😅 The jumpers on the RGB board (J1,J2,J3). Do I need to close all of them, or do I need to keep them open?