HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series Limited Editions

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It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The latest Black Series drop is split into two brackets, with the first three watches sticking closer to the usual Seiko catalogue and the fourth watch reaching considerably more upmarket.
Up first in the lineup is the SPB253J1, using the 40.5mm Prospex interpretation of the famed 62MAS as its base. The watch’s sleek lines usually bring out an elegance that typified the 1960s skin diver design in a remarkably versatile way, however the Black Series version twists that. This version of the architecture sees it become almost like a pilot's watch in its precision.
Next, the SPB255J1 is the newest iteration of the Marinemaster style watches from Seiko’s Prospex series. This 42mm shape is one of the best all-rounders that Seiko currently produce, with an undeniably sporty and quirky look that summarises the best of Seiko without being as inconspicuous as the 62MAS or as wild as the Turtle. Here in black and orange, the SPB255J1 leans into its masculinity and looks ready for action.
Lastly for the trio models, the SPB257J1 takes the shape of the barnstorming Captain Willard with its charmingly retro rounded-off cushion case. Off all the Black Series watches, this is the one which feels the closest to its vintage-accurate counterpart, and can still be imagined swinging alongside a machete through the jungles of Vietnam.
In addition to the visual similarities, those three watches all utilise the 6R35 movement with its extremely convenient 70 hour power reserve at 21,600vph, and coms with a standard silicone strap as well as Seiko’s new "Seichu" woven straps, designed to be much more durable than a standard NATO. My only minor complaint has to lie with the white date window, which could be a little distracting given that it’s surrounding markers are all off-white. Each of these watches are limited to 5,500 units, and priced at $1895AUD except for the SPB257 which is $100 more.
Bringing things into a whole other league is the Seiko SLA061J1. In the past we’ve seen the SLA series contain a more faithful rendition of vintage reissues while the more affordable Prospex versions modernise their design, however this watch is thoroughly hot-rodded to stand out from the regular Black Series entrants. The case is that of a 44mm 6105 Turtle case inspired by the 1970s original, but slathered in black PVD along with the steel bracelet or additional silicone strap. The dial is a wavy texture reminiscent of a horizontal White Birch, although in this charcoal black supposedly representing the rippled sands of the sea bed at night. It’s much more harmonious and balanced than the other models, with the orange highlights confined to the traffic-light seconds hand and the "DIVER’S 200m" marking above the 6 o’clock. The date window is much more nicely integrated too, being located at 4:30 and revealing a black date wheel.
The SLA061J1 uses the 8L35 movement, which at first sounds like it could logically be a step up from the 6R35 and two steps up from the 4R35, but that’s not exactly the case. The 8L35 is actually derived from the Grand Seiko Calibre 9S55, assembled by hand in the famed Shizukuishi Watch Studio, arguably an enormous jump in quality and craftsmanship from the 6R35 mentioned previously. It has a power reserve of around 50 hours at 28,800vph, and mainly differs from the 9S55 in its lack of elaborate decoration and larger balance wheel needed for the larger hands associated with dive watches.
At $5,195AUD and limited to just 1000 pieces, the SLA061J1 is without doubt a serious collector’s watch, and one for die-hard fans of Seiko at that. It’s hard to call a stealth-black jumbo dive watch under-the-radar, but a Seiko Prospex that costs five times as much as some others in the range must bring about some serious satisfaction when you want to wear something that oozes subtle luxury vibes.
The 2022 Seiko Black Series Limited Editions are available via Seiko Boutiques and authorised dealers. Prices: $1,895 AUD (SPB253J1), $1,895 AUD (SPB255J1), $1,995 AUD (SPB257J1), $5,195AUD (SLA061J1)
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[@matsuda150]

I’m wearing the SPB253 and couldn’t be happier! It’s my 3rd Seiko watch ever (I bought my first 3 Seikos within a week). Love the brown stitched Nato band and the watch fits my small wrist perfectly. Stunning looking timepiece too!

[@kanytonaan5594]

you could have had one good quality watch for the combined price of these 3 shaitters

[@trubadyr99]

Yes, it certainly looks cool, man. But having owned it for about 10 months now, can you please share how often you wear it and whether it is catching scratches at all? You see: Seiko is not very revealing about the coating used for these black watches. I would consider getting this watch if it has a black matte DLC coating or carbon fiber case, but I'd definitely pass on the watch case that is PVD coated.

[@colinfoxie]

I went out and bought the spb253 right away, loved it. Then I went online and bought the spb257 - again a very unique watch. So a few days ago I'm like well I should complete this set so I ordered the spb255 from Singapore. Videos like yours don't improve my savings 😀

[@Timeandtidewatches]

You’re welcome!

[@saifulazlin4422]

Can you share me the website you went for the spb255 from Singapore?

[@TomBauto]

I got this black series marinemaster 2 weeks ago, and yes due to the thickness of the strap it wears differently on my wrist but man it does look good! But take note because its coated black, if you scratch the body it will be visible, I had mine tiny one but it's noticeable if you look for it. Also the winding of this watch sounded different from my other 6R35 in SPB213, this one feels much smoother not sure why.

[@fohhee]

Got my SPB255J1 for just £648, 40% discount from the retail price £1080, great great deal :) After DIY demagnetize it, it only run +2sec per day.

[@Signal11th]

Not a good deal like your but I got mine for 660 literally 10 minutes ago one of the last ones. Mad to think I got a near 50% discount on it.

[@gavinhogg843]

I love the Willard,such a unique case shape.

[@DSON89]

I would love to have the SPB143J1 model and the now new limited SPB253J1, they just look awesome.

[@RedwoodAggie]

I like the 62MAS version best, but don't think I could deal with that particular fabric strap. I would probably put it on black rubber or a thinner NATO of some sort. I would love if these had a bracelet. It's great to hear your love of the SPB143. I was blown away when I tried on that watch, and liked it even more than the SPB151 Willard model. I own a King Turtle, so my preference between the two surprised me. The SPB143 just wore beautifully on my 18.4cm wrist. I am really interested in the new STO version coming out in the summer, but the SPB143 wins on versatility.

[@John_Smith2302]

When I first saw the SPB253J1, I had to dive in (pun intended). The woven strap is great but, it looks even better on my 2020 SSC761J1. I think that my SPB253J1 will pop more if it is worn on a stainless strap that matches the case. I'm rocking it for now on the second rubber strap provided in the limited edition box.

[@kikomachine8276]

Saw these in the metal already... I'm very impressed with the finishing of the coating... I'd chose the MM200 because of the many lines in its case that was really complimented by the black coating. I'd put them on a black or orange crafter blue rubber instead of the factory woven band coz it makes the watch sit higher on the wrist. Great review as always!

[@CleverSmart123]

I got myself the MM200 too. How is the quality of the crafter blue strap in comparison to the Seiko rubber band provided with the watch? Thanks

[@kikomachine8276]

@@CleverSmart123 it's very comfortable and it looks great. Great quality

[@CleverSmart123]

@@kikomachine8276 thanks for your feedback, will get me one then.

[@jasongultjaeff9397]

Saw the first one in person...and it's the one I like the most. I like it alot and I'm thinking of going back to get it. Like the colour of the strap but I'm not sure....it's growing on me. Will probably wait for a bit and see how I feel and pick it up if the finances are there for another watch I don't need. Actually wearing my Seiko Presage cocktail time "mockingbird" watch today.

[@erikjensen6503]

Wearing the black marine master as my seiko pepsi rolex needs service after 30 years of faithful service. Love the fabric strap and you didn't mention they come with a silicoln trap in the box as well

[@D901694]

I bought the SPB255J1. It’s a beautiful watch, rides well on the wrist and has a solid feel to it - a certain heft that speaks of quality and solid construction. It’s only flaw is that it’s a tiny watch which unfortunately makes it seem toylike. At that, I’m on the fence wrt possibly selling and upgrading to a Grand Seiko Quartz SBGX335.

[@Signal11th]

Ahh thats my goal watch a GS snowflake.

[@DannyDeDios]

I did the single Pass method On the strap and the bulky side is under my wrist. I have smaller wrist. Great review. Got the Willard in Japan when it was released couple of weeks ago from Sakura.

[@HumainXVII]

Awesome review, thank you

[@nathan2483]

Wearing my seiko solar diver Australia Limited Edition today. Dead keen on a MM200 because I missed out on a MM300. But the 62mas calls my name.

[@KoangPictures]

love the orange lume 🧡

[@okiali6381]

Great review. I was considering the Willard but I already have SPB183 and SPB207 and not to mention SPB191. I have yet to have a 62 MAS so looking at the SPB253 as next purchase. Wearing my SRPE05 King Turtle.

[@PizzaHawk]

I'm getting that willard!

[@MrEmbangweni]

as I watch you looking at watches, I am wearing my SPB147J1. I would have maybe picked up the MM

[@loveordie4]

Beautiful

[@steveb4012]

No longer have a Seiko although had many when I started out. I miss their lume, think I might look for a Samurai when they're on sale...

[@benchang17]

Hi! I’m saw that the black series 2021 are about half the price. Why is that so?

[@jonboy8181]

Watches look amazing, that strap could be modified to make it a single pass, or put a rubber strap on it and call it a day! Thanks for the vid!

[@zachscheel3784]

How do you reckon one would be able to modify for a single pass? Or better yet, no underpass

[@jonboy8181]

@@zachscheel3784 just cut off the extra layer that goes under the case really close to the stitching.

[@theallblack1407]

@@jonboy8181 Exactly. I have cut all my natos for single pass. Recently had an off road motorbike crash wearing a Longines Legend Diver and it lost a pin but was still hanging there just fine on the other so the single nato served its purpose, the double nato is not really needed and it also makes it much better in the hot climate (Philippines) for drying it out.

[@devilgames2217]

Beautiful watch. Edit: I would choose the first or second, most likely the later.

[@matthewhau07708]

Am switching between seiko prospec 4r36 & Rolex Explorer every other day for the moment. I think the black edition with the steel bracelet is the one I’m looking for. But the price for that seiko still got me thinking🤔🤔

[@TheCdM1981]

The $1300 version of the Willlard is 2mm smaller than the original and is a curate to the new version releases. The $3300 one is way more size and shape accurate to the original.

[@166293]

These straps look really great, but the watches sit ridiculously high on the wrist. I wished Seiko would offer this type of strap as a two piece.

[@Timeandtidewatches]

Agree - would help with height

[@evanwilliams4351]

think I'll get the MM200, they're all sexy as though, I've read going over the second keeper and then back under works better 👍

[@yorusuyasoul69420]

same with my spb213 but its black

[@rolandbjr.1761]

Great review! I just got all three as I did with previous years of the black series releases. I dive with all of them but I will not use the strap and change it to a rubber one.

[@Contredanse]

What were the original black series releases, if you don't mind sharing? I tried googling the black series but it seems the previous releases aren't easy to locate.

[@rolandbjr.1761]

@@Contredanse I started collecting the Seiko black series in 2018 which are SRPC49K1(Automatic Turtle), SNE493P1(Solar) A bit Submariner-ish looking and last the SSC673P1 (Solar Chronograph). 2020 Seiko Black Series- SLA035J1 (300M Marine master successor), SPB125J1 (Sumo) and last the SSC761J1 (Solar Chronograph), 2021- SRPH13K1(Monster), SNE577P1(Solar-Tuna) and last the SRPH11K1 (Samurai). Hope this helps.

[@jlyutiup]

Which of the 3 models is the most popular?

[@Tizianv]

Great video! How have i never seen this before? Haha

[@shiraz1736]

Wish they had used the standard turtle case rather than the Willard.

[@watchound.bernardo9738]

Another great video and really nice watches, matte black coating, lume, bezel, proportions. The strap, on the other hand, is off-putting. I get the quality fabric and even the odd colour, but the thickness and that nato style overhang loop (not a nato fan) compromise the wear. Nothing an Erika's Originals Marine Nationale with black DLC hardware won't fix.

[@connorwang3442]

Any recommendation for straps to pair up with this?

[@peterock153]

Anyone have a line on a black PVD bracelet to fit these watches? Included straps are great but I’d like to have the steel option. Otherwise, love this watch. Lume is off the charts.

[@trubadyr99]

PVD? Do you know that it is prone to scratching? Much more so compared to the DLC coating?

[@peterock153]

@@trubadyr99 ok, DLC then.

[@jeremyneilsen4989]

Whats the lug width of the SPB253?

[@trubadyr99]

Hard-coated SS case? Is this Seiko coating compared to the true DLC coating, as the Seiko Hardlex crystal compared to the real sapphire crystal? By the way, I would immediately remove the original brown strap and replace it with a quality strap that isn't making the watch 3 mm taller! This is ridiculous.

[@nak5775]

Pretty expensive for a 6r35 movement given you can have one in an alpinist for as little as $600

[@Signal11th]

and there's another one you can get the same movement for 400 I think, but then again it's all about the limited edition, I got mine for 650 so I'll never lose any money on it.

[@zalazyoz]

For anyone wondering how to wear the NATO strap properly, watch this... kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpOumoqGe5eWmdU

[@Timeandtidewatches]

Ah finally, someone who knows what they’re doing 😂

[@colinfoxie]

Thanks for sharing this

[@japd7897]

My brain now is just busy with the Solar system: Uranus, Jupiter, Mars, ...

[@devilgames2217]

Mercury and moon > all.

[@ArjunSingh-rh4ch]

Trust me these watches are way better and more reliable. They may last forever if kept properly whereas the Moonswatch is all hype. Plastic casing and the worst part you get a simple Swiss quartz movement. Give it a year or two and they Will be available everywhere at the retail price. I might get the mars at the retail price just for the kicks 🙂.

[@Anirossa]

See them new for 50% off, so can't been doing that well I guess..

[@Tartandagger]

Bought this watch ,love the watch but the 6r35 movement is very poor looses at least two minutes just over a week ,as I say love the watch but movement is shite

[@hopalong4822]

The strap is a non starter for me, I would prefer a black stainess steel bracelet.

[@emreisiklar]

İt uaed to be 5 seiko to 1 omega, nope it is 3 to 1 in Turkey:(

[@yorusuyasoul69420]

wat is it

[@mohammedines6182]

Ok je prend envoyer moi une grosse quantité

[@michaelriera6277]

Nice watches, bulky straps

[@RedEyesBDC]

The Seichu strap is too long

[@geoffreydowen5793]

NATO straps being ex royal navy swear by them

[@rolexmike]

Ohhh cool another „limited“ edition from Seiko 😑😴💤

[@JhuangFuKai]

The strap is way too long

[@ahmedashraf1485]

Terrible straps 💩