Timing a mercruiser 140 part 3 - Setting points gap and orientation of rotor to cylinders

Demo showing how to check points gap, and how to rotate the body opposite to the rotors normal direction in order to find exactly when the points will open and spark.. as well as orienting the rotor at spark moment to the correct cylinder #1. ALWAYS DO TIMING USING #1 CYLINDER.

[@DIYRC]

Hey does this boat have a kill switch? The one on my boat will crank over with 150psi on all cylinders but will not get a spark, tested the ignition coil has power 6 volts on positive side but the center of the ignition coil will not give out any power. What do you think it is? Its a 1986 sea sprite Mercruiser 3.0l 140 motor

[@aaronestep5808]

What settings do you have your multimeter set on? Awesome video..

[@SocalMarineUSA]

Continuity or ohms .. look for OL or zero ohms if yours doesn't have the beep function..

[@chuckzemens1481]

Thanks for all of information. It helped get my 1985 Seville running great again. Thanks again!

[@fstarockaburns425]

usually not - disconnect ALL wires on the coil negative EXCEPT the one from the distributor and try again.. any kill circuit grounds the coil neg killing spark (like a kill switch, shift interrupt, etc), this test eliminates that, of course thats assuming you have 12v at the coil POS with key on..

[@watcherwatchmen7785]

I have an interesting issue. I'm getting 12v on the + side of coil with key turned on. Disconnected kill switch and shift switch to eliminate possible cause of grounding out the coil. I can physically open the distributor points with a screwdriver and see a spark jump from the coil output wire to ground, but nothing comes from the distributor. Adjusted the point gap to .018". Using an inductive timing light to check for spark. Nothing when I crank the engine. I'm thinking of replacing the distributor Points, rotor, cap and condenser, but I don't like throwing money at problems without knowing for sure. Does this sound like these parts need replacement? Any further tests I can do?

[@SocalMarineUSA]

spark coul dbe weak, did u run sand paper between the contact points? could also be a weak condenser that causes this.. there should be a strong spark between the points. Coil ohms shd be around 3-3.5 for these, some olde rmercs had a resistor wire in the harness. Try putting a full 12v+ jumper wire onto the coil + and see if ti fires.. distributors are usually not the issue, could be a ground leak at the points or single wire or something...

[@jasonn-ct6fx]

Very good video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

[@barry.anderberg]

If you know your engine needs to be at, say, 8 degrees BTDC, then can't you just set it manually there? Why the "half an inch" recommendation?

[@SocalMarineUSA]

the 1/2 inch of for folks trying to get the motor running - some just dont have a timing light and the half inch will gt them running - maybe 2-4 degrees out but the motor will run just fine.

[@puppyupper4565]

Excellent. Thank you

[@tobyrowe4431]

Thankyou

[@tytribby3785]

Is this the same for a 130?

[@fstarockaburns425]

you mean 120? yes - if its a GM block yes. Ford distributor usually rotates the other way - but the concept works on all gas powered engines regardless of cylinders / configuration etc..

[@tobyrowe4431]

Thanks

[@SocalMarineUSA]

Welcome

[@Lyric7347]

I have continuity on my points open or closed please help! What is my issue here? Thank you! Great channel brother very very good.

[@SocalMarineUSA]

try remove the wire from the distributor to coil neg and try that. If its connected u will get continuity. If problem persists, make sure you arent by accident touching the bottom, only the arm tht opens and closes is insulated from the body, the rest is the same as ground so u have to make sure the probe is touching the long arm only, or the spring on the arm, the part below it should not be touching otherwise the system will be permanently grounded.. hope that makes sense

[@Lyric7347]

@@SocalMarineUSA okay will try thanks

[@Lyric7347]

@@SocalMarineUSA Still same issue. Do you have an opinion on switching to a Pertronix 1146A electronic system. It seems to be a very easy to install upgrade and less hassle with the points set up. Thanks

[@SocalMarineUSA]

@@Lyric7347 Dont touch the pin on the back of the spring, it connects to the base plate and will continuously beep, touch the insulated spring (it should be insulated)... pertronix is good yes, not as reliable. the pertronix 1 burns out with key on / not running but works with stock coil (usually about 3.3 ohms or more). Pertronix 2 doesnt burn out, has adaptive dwell (not sure if thats worth noticing), and requires a roughly 1.3.to 1.7 ohm coil (any make will do).. ALL pertronix require full 12v at coil, and there are tests to perform individually - check the pertronix troubleshooting guide - if u still have issues..

[@Lyric7347]

@@SocalMarineUSA okay thanks again SoCal! I’m still playing around with it before I eliminate the points I’m not in a huge rush Just an old boat I ran across and I think I can save, I it bought it cheap. I could sell parts and double my money. 1987 Chaparral 187 Xl. 3.0 / 700.00 with perfect trailer 18” never been toyed with. I got trim working it had a broken brush holder inside motor. Blower works all lights and bilge pump. Motor is clean great compression clean oil, it was winterized. I believe she will run great once I figure the points situation. Fingers crossed! Thanks for your input I really like your channel your very detailed and an a great mechanic thanks again for putting out the information it’s very very helpful. It’s been awhile since I messed around with points but I have 30 years ago! Lol I’m also a mechanic industrial field rotary screw compressor systems. Thanks again!!