TIPS

Part 2 of 4. TUBALCAIN MAKES A COMPOUND REST FOR AN ATLAS-Craftsman 6" LATHE. Learn how to cut a dovetail and a tee slot.
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[@briantaylor9266]

I'm quite happy to have you tell us the brand of tool you're using. I trust you to be objective in your assessment of it, and it lets us know 'what would Tubalcain use'. Right off the bat we know it's not junk, or you wouldn't be using it at all. Thanks!

[@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts]

It is a high point of my day when I go to my KZbin account and find another Tubalcain film.

[@rgetso]

I just realized why you stopped saying, "When I was in my prime..." All those years of teaching those wreckless shop students was preparation for now when you teach tens of thousands of us attentive, older students. Thank you so much, Mr. Pete, for being in your prime now.

[@davidjames1007]

As always great to watch and learn from an old hand...thank you and never mind those negative remarks

[@peterwoodland1952]

Mr PeteThanks for some of the best video I've seen on youtube. My dad and I purchased a 6 inch Craftsman lathe 40 years ago and it has sat virtually unused since his passing in 1995. I is in nearly new condition and has been kept covered in the back of my mostly woodworking shop. You've given me the impetus to clean it up, lubricate and inspect it. Most importantly you've given me a reason to learn to use it. At age 70 it may be a late start but I'll try to be a good student.Pete Woodland

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--its never to late--give it a try

[@not2fast4u2c]

Thanks for mentioning the Niagara Cutter ....Most of us have No problem with you mentioning a product name when it is a tool you Like ....and they were Nice enough to pick you to try out their product ..

[@aserta]

I think mentioning cutter sizes and brand is adamant. It's not only a help for the channel in a future sponsorship, but, it's help for us. Having to cross out all the bad cutters is a PITA. You go through a lot of money finding on your own. Seeing the result and knowing the cutter is a great boon to be found in these videos. :) Also, the yoke head that bothered Mr. Pete doesn't know that he (like other content creators in our little corner of KZbin) has received a care package from Niagara, i think it's the correct thing to do.

[@russtuff]

"If I screw this up, I'll wish I was a golfer". That sir, is hilarious.

[@MakeItWithCalvin]

as a fellow atlas 618 owner with a somewhat hacked up compound i think i am going to tackle this too! Keep up the good work :)... its awesome to see the old timers sharing their skills to the future generations!

[@aserta]

See if you can narrow down a lump of cast iron. This piece of metal is not everyone's cup of tea. As mentioned in the first video, stresses inside the metal can wreck your work. I've been through this and learnt the hard way. ;) Secondly, sharp cutter for the dovetails. Obligatory. Good luck!

[@cliftoncarmichael2392]

Mr pete, you are one of the most informative machinist I've seen. You have given me the courage and confidence to do just about any project on my lathe or milling machine. Thanks and pay no attention those who leave negative comments. They are just jealous or ignorant.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for the encouragement!!!

[@elmarqo_3448]

I completely agree with you Cliffton. You tubers like mr.pete have inspired me to try projects that are probably above my skill level. thanks mr.pete

[@tdfguy2002]

I love the “shop teacher” in you. I inherited the same Craftsman 6” lathe from my father and he brazed the broken compound back together. I have not yet used it but will soon to see if the braze holds.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@HemiRod23]

People are offended by the most ridiculous things nowadays. The Seco/Niagara folks were kind enough to send those cutting tools to you so you could show us how to use them properly. That deserves some recognition and appreciation. I would like to cut some dovetails of my own in the near future, so this video is especially interesting for me. Thank you!

[@wgm-en2gx]

People complain about the most irrelevant things. You get free stuff from manufacturers in exchange for some exposures. Welcome to America. That's the way it works! You showed us and told us you were given stuff. I don't get the feeling that you are giving a colored opinion cause you got free stuff. Actually, I'm happy to see you get free stuff. You are on a budget and don't get much new stuff so when a manufacturer gives you new stuff, I think it's very cool! Take care.

[@petefletcher]

Surely we need to know what brands work and what don't do so well. This is part of the wealth of information we get from generous people like Mr Pete.

[@grntitan1]

I'm giving you a thumbs up just cause the moron gave you a thumbs down in the other video. Actually I'm giving you a thumbs up because I thoroughly enjoy your videos and you are responsible for the success of many projects of mine. Great work Mr. Pete👍🏻

[@justtim9767]

+1 on that.

[@jix177]

Well said. There is no excuse for giving thumbs down to somebody who shares so much knowledge and skill for free. Please don't let them get you down Mr Pete, the problem is with them, not with you.

[@comandokarl]

"Ten-four" :D

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

Niagara. Niagara. Niagara. Niagara. Niagara. Thumbs up as a compensatory gesture! And thanks for a machining project. I enjoy seeing you in your element!

[@matthewhelton1725]

Wonderful progress, and no issues encountered - the machinist's dream. Pay the haters no mind: if you like something, you are entitled to say so. I was especially pleased to see the relief cut into the bottom of the dovetail: great detail work!

[@skibee50]

Thank you for making these videos I'm learning at 66ys after being a construction surveyor all my life working

[@OldSweetTed]

Mr. Pete: I'm sorry I did not have you as one of my teachers; I probably would have been a machinist, as you lend an air of practicality and the ability to "do" to everything you do! All of my thanks to you, over and over! I always look forward to your new videos.

[@TheSiriusProject]

Mr. Pete, I watched your videos for over a year to learn how to do things and what to buy. Once I got my first lathe and mill (on the same day), I had to make something I knew I would need. I made a nut buddy. I think I'm not the first. That's my estimate on why it is viewed so much. Thanks for all you do.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching

[@roysmith3198]

I'm a semi-retired Carpenter. A few years into my trade I took a Votec Machine shop course. I was tired after work and fell asleep at the lathe. I knew class was over. All these years later I'm in You Tube class. I've been watching You, Abom, both Keith's and TOT, for around 9 months in anticipation of getting a hobby lathe and mill. Watching you slot the Dove-tail I was thinking there is a conventional cut and a climb cut. You confirmed I got it right. When you were 2 thou off hitting .615 and it fit I think you just eliminated years of wear, so I'll be thinking about that whenever I make replacement parts in the future. Still a year or so out on getting machines but it is fun learning now. I'm sorry for the length of comment but It's all to say thank you so much for putting your time out there for us.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you so much for watching and I’m glad you’re learning. It’s never too late

[@kevCarrico]

so cool to see chips flying again -- cutting oil smoke and all! THANK YOU for always explaining the little things!! and ah-ha -- the squirt bottle! i use mine to apply cutting fluids, and sometimes as a poor-man's flood coolant system, in tight situations like dovetails that would certainly eat a brush.

[@alexmclennan3011]

I for one cannot thank you enough for your skilled teaching. Thankyou

[@toddanonymous5295]

Mr Pete, So many good tips I have to take notes. Especially the tip using the rods to measure the inside dimension of the dovetail. I have a feeling you are educating more online than when you were in the classroom. We all appreciate all you do.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Yep, his classroom is world-wide now!

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Coming along nicely. I used that same rod measurement technique to check the dovetails for parallel on the old compound. It works well. I used some 1/4 x 3/4 dowel pins. You go right ahead and keep telling us what brands you're using when you feel it's appropriate. I want to know what cutters and brands work. I want to understand how different cutters behave so I know how to improve my results. Thanks for another great video and for a great project. John

[@ericcorse]

Mr Pete I was thinking its good for us old codgers when our hearts keep thumping. Excellent series.

[@aserta]

I love these projects. Whilst for some they are either trivial or useless, for people like me, who, are still learning or starting, this is gold. Gold because for one, the first compound slide i tried to restore was a complete failure, not in the sense that it doesn't work, it does, but it's not perfect. And therefore i can't be proud of it, and i bloody see it on my smaller lathe all the time. :) This video (and others like it) not only shows us how, but also shows us the minor steps, the details. The logic, the path that's best walked. Otherwise, like back in the day, you'd have to spend days, weeks, years, to learn this in depth, the whys, the hows, the whens. Now, i can open the internet, find my favorite channels and understand it by experiencing it. Not physically, but visually, and you learn such things much faster once you've seen them done. Once you're all set and done, ready to start your work, each time you follow the procedure, something clicks in, and you're like: "oh, so that's why he did such and such". And the next time, you can add your own little twist, do things, better, or worst (there's no shame in failing, you learn from that too, as long as you understand where, that's all that matters). For this, and for the smart entertainment provided so beautifully by people like Mr. Pete, i am, forever grateful. I wish others would understand just how freaking lucky we are to live in a world where we have something like this at our disposal, and how colossal the people before us, were, having to learn these things from scratch. I bow to those giants, and walk in their shadow.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Well said; I agree! It's great to have the easily accessible technology that allows us to have a forum like KZbin and people like Mr. Pete that are willing to donate their time to share their knowledge with us. Would have missed out on a lot without it for sure. Never would have known Mr. Pete existed and still would be fumbling around in my garage on my old lathe with no guidance....

[@allannoyes4560]

Dont worry about any negative comments. You are providing an educational experience that your viewers look forward to.

[@johnnyholland8765]

Thumbs down people don't count....... Go Tubalcain GO! Keep them videos coming and don't worry about those thumb down people. I have worked in the aerospace machine world for 30 years and as I watch your videos and other people as well I am always amazed at how everyone is a little different but are also the same. As stated a thousand different ways to do something to get the same result and that is a good functioning part. Think I would do a little angle cut on top to mimic the original.

[@thatoldbob7956]

very nice solution, grate job as usual. I bought one in 1962 with broken compound too. at that time it was still available from Clausing, Goshen, Indiana. Couple of winters ago I completely refurbished it (make a video of it sometime). I love to watch you working, will view it again. grate teaching subject, thanks that old bob

[@GamersBar]

I love these videos where you show how to actually make \ build something , quite an interesting process. And dont worry about the guy who said dont buy brands , you used a product i have no issue you mentioning who sent it.

[@steved8038]

This is another one of your excellent videos , I'm sure you know by now not to take any notice of the occasional derogatory comment you bring pleasure and knowledge to a lot of folks so thank you sir.

[@michaelschnock3998]

Mr Pete, i highly appreciate your Videos, i learn a lot and also enjoy it every time. I can say that all the kids who had you as a teacher should be glad. I can only remember one or two of my teachers which were able to "teach" in the right way. Thanks again for all the great Content and the Value you provide to people like me. With the best whishes for you and your Family from Berlin, Germany. Michael

[@mikemarriam]

Lyle, I read through a few of the videos and would like to add that it is a positive character trait to show gratitude for a gift. Having purchased similar end mills outright I would sing Niagara's or anyone else's praises to the heavens if a box like you got landed on my door step. I thank you for your desire to share your skills and experience. God bless.

[@aspenbanjo]

Great video Mr. Pete. It's neat to see an old machine resurrected in such a proper way

[@Mullicamanufactory]

The master at work again. Thank you for another informative and entertaining video sir!

[@Mike-sp7ru]

I, for one am glad you offer your thought process, I am learning so much about the machining craft from you. thanks

[@Vantss]

Pete, nuts to that sour guy! Your videos are always full of information, nothing wrong with telling us who made your tooling. You told about them when you got them, I say it's fine. Even if I'm crazy jealous of all those pretty cutters...

[@Daledavispratt]

Well, add my own "thumbs up" to this one too...and I often review your past videos, not only for a refresher course, but they are darned entertaining as well! Thanks again, Mr. Pete!

[@Lonfax]

I wish you were my shop teacher Mr Pete! At least I can watch your GREAT videos! I'm learning a bunch, and not just about machining techniques. You are teaching by example on how to be a great human being.

[@dougvanallen2212]

Mr Pete I wish I had a nickel for every hour you spend making these great videos . I would be a rich man some people just don't get it . thanks so much

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--I'd be rich if it was only a penny

[@MrPatdeeee]

AMEN!

[@princetikki]

if wealth is measured in appreciation, then you are a rich man sir!

[@boonetesterman]

I love your videos, great detail and answers my questions. I'm 16 and learning a lot from you.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you, it's good to hear from a young man

[@stepcorngrumbleteats7683]

Great Video !! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and valuable skills.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Looking great Mr Pete! Tubalcain watching Tubalcain videos as a refresher; love it! :) Have a great Labor Day weekend!

[@gdglock]

Very informative and educational as usual. Really appreciate you mentioning the manufacture of the cutters. Oh yeah, thumbs up as well for all your videos!!

[@tommybewick]

I just thought I would mention I don't know what kind of mic settings you use but your audio quality is always excellent on your videos and I can hear everything you say very clearly and I appreciate it, I just watched some other channels I subscribe to and had a hard time hearing what they were talking about because the audio quality was so poor. Great job as usual, Tom.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--I just use the built in camera mike

[@rudddude5294]

lol i thought i was hearing the crickets from my window...no crickets here atm...lol

[@johs290185]

I'm pretty sure that 10 thousands relief cut you made towards the end of the video, actually is relief for the dovetail cutter. If you use a bigger one it might tend to grab or just not cut well in the center. That's what I was taught anyway. Really exellent video series so far. Hope you make many more!

[@timturner7609]

thumbs up for giving props to the companies that hook you up.

[@russelallen5342]

Very Nice! I appreciate Knowing the brand of tools you are using, good and bad ones. Thanks for your teaching efforts!! Russ

[@Newmachinist]

Hi Lyle - Thanks again for another great video!!!. Thanks also for the make and model of the cutters - really helps people in the sticks like myself. Rod

[@killerkane1957]

Great Lyle! Glad it made it! What a precious lump of cast iron! Best to you and yours!

[@PuchMaxi]

Nice job Mr. Pete, I look forward to the final part.

[@dalejones4186]

Great video. I am new to metal working and these videos help me feel comfortable about knowing I can do it. Thanks Mrpete.

[@davebohnert542]

I feel that you can mention any manufacturer you like as long as you are honest about the quality and performance of the item. I think that it is helpful in making decisions about my own purchases. thanks for the great videos. Dave

[@polakis1975]

Very nice clean work! Your knowledge and experience is amazing. Greetings from Greece!!

[@weshowe51]

I don't usually even think about the thumbs up/down. But I made sure to click thumbs up just to counterbalance the jerks that think everything should be untainted by brand names. I cannot afford to buy every brand out there and test it myself. But I can take note of what works for other machinists when I am purchasing additional tooling. BTW, thanks for all the videos.

[@donfoster1832]

Nothing wrong at all with mentioning companies that send you things to use. Just for grins, it would be interesting to see you fix the original slide. Excellent video as usual !

[@Jim-ie6uf]

Mr. Pete, I really enjoyed this one. I agree with Brian, tell us what brand you're using. Nice job.

[@dustinkinser3797]

mrpete. I have learn a lot from you. thank u

[@spikey2740]

I enjoy your videos, including name brands if mentioned. And I just upvoted on this.

[@infoanorexic]

Making that dovetail on the shaper would be a good one to cover. I just recently acquired a 15" Steptoe Western (and I don't have a mill ... won't have room for one until I get some more concrete down in the shop). Finding specific instructions for more complicated work, on such a machine, is a bit harder to find.

[@johngalt9262]

cool and timely... I'll be cutting the dovetails today for my QCTP tool holder I'm making from scratch

[@MrPragmaticLee]

Thanks for videoing some actual machine time. Great video - as always.

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great work Mr.Pete coming out real nice. Thank you

[@jmh8743]

when you mentioned the products, I immediately gave you 2 thumbs up. so there.......

[@rosscheater8165]

Love the crickets in the background. Either you did this late at night or early in the morn.

[@bhartwigutube]

Hi Mr. P: Another awesome series! John @ Doubleboost had a good observation on the relief on the dovetail base. His theory is to cut the slot to full depth and then set the dovetail cutter slightly - say 0.010" - higher than the base of the groove. This gives a bit of clearance to clean out swarf from the base of the dovetail cutter. It seems like a reasonable theory. Thanks again for the great videos!

[@1musicsearcher]

Mr. Peterson, it is correct and polite to acknowledge a gift, no matter who it's from. I wish you'd stop recognizing those who have nothing better to do than find fault with your channel. I'd bet they're not spending countless hours producing educational videos such as yours.

[@EmmaRitson]

excellent series! thanks for taking the time as always. really enjoying this one.

[@nitropyro]

Great work as always, and i'm happy for you if you are getting free tooling from companies. No reason not to let people know the tooling brand that are helping you out.

[@frankmolina3951]

I appreciate when you say what kind of cutter your using. There are so, many out there. I was wondering what kind of dovetail cutter that was.

[@joeschmoe6816]

Please mention all the manufacturers of tools etc you like for the ones of us trying to learn machining it’s nice to have info on what works

[@umajunkcollector]

Lyle, please keep in mind, for every troll that jeers, there are thousands of viewers who CHEER! Don

[@JamesDedmon]

As you said there are 100 ways to do something. When I cut dovetails I use an adjustable parallel and regular micrometers to measure the slot. Most of the time it is to adapt large lathe tools to my quick change holder on the lathe.

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

I agree the adjustable parallel trick makes life so much easier !

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great video. That will be a lot better than the original. Keep on keeping on.

[@1969Kakashi]

I have a 101 and the original compound is actually a poor design in that the crown of the casting is higher than the machined surface where your tool post rides. It's not a big deal unless you want to upgrade to an Aloris or something...then you have problems with clearance. Mr. Pete has got me quite interested in this project.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

The Mrpete222 model will be a lot better than the original.

[@jacquespoirier9071]

in fabrication regards, you're totally right, the choice of material is not optimum for this application the main reason for using cast iron for mchine tool construction is that this material typically dampen the vibrations, steel in the other hand have the tendancy to amplify the vibrations.

[@tomharp5211]

Pete keep up the good work! Yes it's good to let the viewers know what brand tooling you are using. I wonder if that Debbie downer takes the name or logo off his vehicles LOL.

[@harleypub]

Thank you for your years of experience and wisdom

[@tacitus101010]

Great series. Looking forward to part 3!

[@OldIronShops]

i like using adjustable parallels for that kind of measuring then you can use a outside mike to see what you have. many ways to do it.

[@RichardHeadGaming]

Nice work so far on the rebuild. And i see nothing wrong with quick brand inserts or mentions if the product you are using actually works well compaired to others. Its the 40 mins of commercials and 20 mins of TV that ruin TV, I have not watched regular TV in 10 years or more lol.

[@scottcarlon6318]

The individuals who gave a thumbs down are proof that the mental illness of the democratic party, is creeping deeper and deeper into the fabric of the common sense loving population of Americana. In my opinion, your videos are a value to up and coming machinists and some of us old timers trying to improve our skill set, with a side benefit of being entertained in the process. Thanks for all your efforts.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very much

[@pcka12]

I used to have a Halifax 524 lathe which I understand was an Atlas clone, it was 4 1/2 inch centre so 9 inch swing (not very well put together and the headstock casting had a crack) so being young and inpecunious I stripped it down, heated up the casting with a blowtorch and welded the crack using nickel arc rods from the local farm suppliers (they would sell you individual rods), I was quite surprised by how well this worked, I tidied the casting up with angle grinder and files, reassembled the lathe and it worked, I can see how a careful and skilled mechanic might have repaired that cast topslides properly (rather they hand the mess you found when you bought the lathe. inspired by that success with nickel rods, I was in a fix when one of the needles on my International Harvester bailer broke just in the middle of one of those brief dry periods that we get in the West Country which allow a little haymaking. They told me the needle was cast iron and a spare a week away, so out came the blowtorch, nickel rods etc, and I amazed myself by successfully welding the needle and saving the harvest. At present I have a little Myford ML7 to play with, it is a 1950 model so my senior by 6 years but little worn and accurate, the other toy I am playing with is a Southbend of 1936 vintage, it is in bits at the moment and has two cracked teeth on the back gear - so I am wondering how to 'bodge' that one back into use - those nickel rods and my files once again? ? or would that be just asking too much of that technique?

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching. Thats a good story about the needle repair. Yo can give that SB gear a try, but thats a lot of filing

[@gaylesooter2003]

Hi Mr. Pete, one of these lathes came into my shop in a basket for sale. I guess I am like you, can't stand to see a machine die so I got it and restored it. After my research I have found it was made in 1937, one of the first 6x18 lathes made for the 1938 Sears catalog. It has no back gear or bull gear, has a thread counter and change gears for threading, no oil hole for the compound nut. The gear cover is bell shaped. The half nuts were ordered new off ebay, but are a bit to large for the screw and will jump a thread at times. Now for the good part, after paint and set up with a ground 3/8 printer rod in the chuck it's total run out is .0008. Shocked the heck out of me, so that is what I named it, Shocker . Photos apron request. I use it in my carburetor rebuilding business for those small jobs that won't fit in the 10EE. Thank you for saving another of Americas fine machines.

[@mrpete222]

I bet that is a nice machine

[@roberthorner8494]

GOOD JOB MR. PETE, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.

[@mikebarton3218]

Wonderful! Thank you Mr. Pete.

[@dougbourdo2589]

Very nice. I might do one for my Atlas just for the enjoyment of it.

[@pyromedichd1]

Mr. Pete, great video! I'm really enjoying this project. I do have a question though, are machined surfaces sufficient for these sliding parts or will scraping be necessary to improve them? Thanks!!

[@justtim9767]

The explanation is simple --- because it's good.

[@pumkinvine4175]

"you know if I screw this up. I'll wish that I was a golfer" lol

[@highwatercircutrider]

I love your voice and clear explanations. I think you must have been a teacher or preacher at some point in life, lol... Gary in Michigan

[@mrpete222]

lol

[@CraftedChannel]

Isn't the dovetail on the original off center to account for the gib thickness or is it the slide? Thank you for this excellent series. I like video's best where practical objects are manufactured. Thumbed up for sure.

[@aserta]

I don't remember who made inside calipers for dovetails (the tips fit standard dovetails as far as i know) but they do exist. At the very least, they used to be made, and whilst it's not one of those tools you use all the time, it sure is the tool to have when it's the right time. :) Saw em a year or so ago at a yard sale, didn't buy them, which i regret, because one of the legs was bent, now, a year later, i would know how to properly fix that. Oh well.

[@milantrcka121]

Mr. Pete, excellent tutorial on complex process of making a precision part! Your Bridgeport bearings make almost the exact same noise as a clone I used to work with. As far as the moron complaining about "advertising", that is nothing but envy. (btw: noticed the HF flashlight).

[@Richard_OKeeffe]

Excellent video series, show how an almost wrecked lathe can be rescued

[@flyingjeep911]

The cricket!!! I like it as a background noise

[@mrpete222]

👌

[@georgebell7103]

Mr Pete, thanks for this video. You have never mentioned scraping the mating surfaces. Is that not needed?

[@WalkerKlondyke]

Mr. Pete, please do a video on the subject of how machinists determine pricing for their work. By the way, I'm one of those hammer and chisel mechanics you loathe so much and every time I have to grab my mallet I say a little prayer of repentance to you.

[@aserta]

On a short message, step no 1 is materials, step no 2 is how much the tooling costs (and you factor in either the price of a new tool or wear), step no 3 it's your time, that's something you have to figure out, it's based on electricity cost, how much you want to earn per month, competition (stake them out, always, in your area, and further), quality (if you work top notch, you can price top notch, if your work is shoddy, well, not so much, you might get away with it once), and finally i'd say time in which you're asked to finish the work. If it's a long term deal, it depends on something like "hey, your item X is keeping this part of the shop occupied, i need to know it's going to pay me back in the end, otherwise i'll loose potential money), is it an overnight, then you have to work fast, you can squeeze some $ from there, is it dangerous.. etc. Ultimately, you need to look around you and figure out what you have in terms of qualities (it also helps with improving yourself and your tools), those are assets you can base the sum. Also, never forget the haggle, the oratory art of narrowing the price where you need it, but at the same time, where the customer can afford it. It's a complicated thing to figure it all out, but, the best part about being alive is, you've got a long time to do that, and once you've done that, you'll end up like the old folk, who, on a glance, will say exactly how much it costs. :)

[@MrPatdeeee]

Figure: The cost of labor The cost of all parts that are used in the product. This includes every bolt, nut and washer, etc. The cost of overhead. This is the tough one. It takes in every other cost of your doing business, when it comes to making a part; or servicing a part. IE; Rent, electric, gas, water, sewage charges, other salaries to run the business, plus taxes, insurance, etc, etc. This requires some serious thinking. Add these up. At this point you have made not a dime. Then multiply that by the amount of "markup" you wish to make as an honest Jesus-fearing business man; if you are wise. This then would be the total cost of the job. Example: A person wants you to make a new valve for his windmill pump. You estimate 4 hours labor @ 30 dollars/hr=$120. Cost of parts = $75. Overhead has been running at (in your business) about 70% of labor and parts. Multiply $195 X 70%=$136.50. Added together= $331.50 Increase this by your desired markup (say 30%) Add this to the total above. $331.50 + 30%=$430.45 That should be your price. Be careful. Do you really expect 30%? The other costs can vary as well. However, resist the tendency to engage in "off the top of your head pricing". That will either send you to the poor house or to jail. Oh indeed LOL. Remember: NEVER be ashamed of your labor. A big mistake by all too many in business. Keep meticulous records. In a relatively short time, you will see a pattern forming that will be ever cemented with each job you do; when it comes to markup and a fair price. This is not a new concept. Seasoned and successful businesses have used this formula for many decades. Note: This is why we all experience "sticker shock" from time to time. NOW you know why even for the righteous businesses. Believe it or not. Finally. Remember, there is NO free lunch. Unless, of course, it comes from our dear Lord. Then it is always 100% free and all "after affects" are guaranteed wonderful. Praise His holy name.

[@WalkerKlondyke]

As I stated in the OP, I'm a mechanic. I have my own small shop and one of the toughest things to learn, once going into business for myself, was how to price jobs. That formula is basically what I've come up with. I'm surprised you'd estimate labor at just $30 an hour. That seems low for the skill needed to run most machines. I typically consider a machinist to be higher on the skill scale than auto mechanic and I wouldn't get out of bed for 30/hr!

[@WalkerKlondyke]

The reason I'm curious about rates at a machine shop is that even the "easy" stuff you see in some YT vids a la Kieth Fenner or Abom looks like it would justifiably fetch a fortune!

[@MrPatdeeee]

You are absolutely correct. I have been retired for 21 yrs. I forget how much things cost today, especially "Labor"; compared to when I was in the "field". Thanks for correcting me. Just change my steps to whatever is the going "rate" for labor. Thanks again.

[@ottohoekstre9732]

i watch with great joy thank you and happy new year

[@bearbait2221]

I like to know what brand works and what doesn't so I give you thumbs up

[@eliduttman315]

Mr. P., Devil take that naysayer. Regardless of publicity/loss leader concerns, the folks at Seco/Niagra did a mavelous thing in providing, gratis, those fine cutters to KZbin machining community. "You take care of the people who take care of you." You mentioned the fragility of that "standard" dovetail cutter. Randy Richard makes dovetail cutters that employ carbide inserts. They seem to be quite sturdy. Maybe you should get in touch with Randy. Eli D.

[@Jm4steam]

thank you for another informative video.