TIPS

[@cri8tor]

Made one of these in college using a Starrett wiggler as an example. The professor's aid had made one and after seeing his great work, he helped me machine mine. Great tutorial. Cheers

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@renaissanceman7145]

Watching this series 6 years after it was uploaded to KZbin proves my point that I have made to Mr. Pete. His videos will outlast him and in so doing will teach untold numbers of people how to run a Mill or Lathe and how to make various tools/projects for many years to come. That's an incredible legacy for anyone. Edit - spelling errors.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very very much

[@kstwind]

I finished the wiggler yesterday, then made a spindle thread protector for the Atlas. I've been a hobby machinist for 50 years but had gotten a little sloppy. You have taught me to be precise and do things right again. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so freely with us.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--its satisfying to hear that someone made the projects

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

Enjoyed this project, Mr. Pete. I didn't know about tapestry needles, but being married to a fine seamstress, I do know about ball point needles. They really have a round tip, designed to penetrate knit fabrics without splitting or tearing the threads. It's a little like sewing window screen without breaking the wires.

[@CNCJoeFromRomeo]

Excellent project and very well demonstrated. Shows the incredible amount of planning, and forethought that needs to go into even a very simple tool - in order to make it work as intended. Thanks for doing this Pete

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@brianhostak3961]

Great video Mr. Pete. Thank you for the share.

[@grntitan1]

This was another great series from the KZbin shop teacher mrpete222. Thanks for all you do. Anxiously awaiting the next project...............Matt

[@captahab801]

Great series. My grandson and I will be making a set over spring break. We made the small clamps over winter break and they came out wonderful. He wanted to flame color them. I was worried that it would change and distort the dimensions but they came out looking great and spot on.Thank you again for a great channel.

[@garyc5483]

Great series mrpete. Thanks for sharing & thanks to Toly for his participation. regards from the UK

[@newtsfarm]

I'm glad you mentioned the use for 5-40 theads. I've been using them for years with 1/8 welding rod.

[@carrollprice1213]

Excellent videos and my next project. Thanks for the details and clear instructions.

[@mrpete222]

Have fun!

[@roberthorner8494]

GREAT PROJECT MR. PETE

[@billbussler3332]

Mrpete in #1 of this series (I believe it was #1) I remember you talking about the little plastic tip cap in your Crapsman set and that they get lost right away. I found a while back a drawer full of those in all different sizes at Lowe's. I bought several handfuls in all sizes and now everything that is sharp in my shop has little red tips on them. Pretty handy to have and a few pennies each couldn't beat it. Thanks for your videos keep up the great work!

[@billbussler3332]

Oh by the way, did you think a sharpened point on a needle made in Taiwan was going to be any more concentric than you could have made it? Haha

[@kevCarrico]

another great project -- and what a great series of these various tools -- thank you!!

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Great series Mr. Pete! Nicely done; looks and works great! Thanks for sharing!

[@thedivinehammerswoodworks1895]

Another great video series, I thoroughly enjoyed watching and learning from it. Thank you.

[@dalegriggs5392]

Tublecain, Enjoyed this series! Planning to make this tool instead of buying one. They are not overly expensive but I get a certain satisfaction from using tools I have successfully made. Gonna hold on to my brass monkey though as it snowed yesterday and overnight on this second week of November. My little shop is heated but the walk between the back door to my shop door is such that the monkey is still essential to determine if I want to risk the elements. I’m going to make the tap follower as well. I ran across a 1970 Craftsman 14 inch drill press at an estate auction recently and picked it up for the princely sum of 40 bucks. I’m still a bit giddy about that! I’m in the process of cleaning it up and slowing down the speed. Also the table is rather heavy and difficult to maneuver so I’m building a screw lift powered by a treadmill lift motor which is 110 volt, capacitor start and adequate to do the job. I removed the drive shaft from the gearbox and made a replacement out of a 12mm shaft I salvaged from an old printer. I used a die to thread the end to 3/8-16 to match the all thread I’ll use as the screw. I plan to use a coupling nut to join it. I’ll try lock washers and lock tite 638 but if that doesn’t hold I’ll have to pin it. I may also put in a weight system similar to your application to take stress off the lift motor. I probably could get by without the screw lift but I want fairly precise positioning on the table without a lot of effort. I also had to make a spindle lock as the original was missing. It’s just a simple 3/4 inch plug with a 45 degree angle on one side that tightens against the spindle with a draw bar type application. I made a large, round knurled knob to tighten it. The head stock locks the same way and I’m going to make another knurled knob to replace the angled rod as I keep hitting my head on it. I lost my left eye in Vietnam knob so my peripheral vision is limited which makes the term, “Knot-head” relevant in my case. I’ve replaced the motor, which works fine, but I wanted more hp and I’ve geared it down so I can get 70 rpm at slowest speed.

[@mrpete222]

Sorry about your eye.yes, make a wiggler. It's cold here today 21°

[@kb0zyh]

I really enjoyed this series. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@hitnmiss49]

Great project Lyle. This is the perfect and useful project for beginning machinist. Even though I have several wigglers I'm going to make a set of these with my son. Lonnie

[@mikedeloach6849]

I'm glad you DIDN'T use "leather needles", as many of them have either a triangular point, or a chisel point...sometimes angled. Thank you for having a Teacher's heart and sharing your knowledge with us. Your videos are very informative and enjoyable. I hope to get another (replacement) lathe this year, and the project series you've posted will provide a lot of skill building exercises to an aspiring novice.

[@dadmezz4024]

Thank you Mr. Pete.

[@dondawson7409]

Lyle, as always brilliant

[@brianbarnum48414]

Great series!

[@mrpete222]

🤙

[@myenjoyablehobbies]

I really enjoy your build videos, thanks for doing them for us.

[@yvesdesrosiers2396]

Thank you. I enjoyed this series.

[@rogerpetrella5993]

5-40 is a common screw in gunsmithing. You can get the taps and dies from Brownell's. My local Ace Hardware carries a good supply of 5-40 in the boxes labeled gun screws.

[@MrShobar]

The ball-end can also be used to center on a hole. Nice job as always.

[@RFAM05]

Great series. Thank you

[@arcanix51]

i remember making one of these in trade school. extemely useful and not just for the things show over the course of this series! as one person mentioned, you can use it to fince the center of a hole, you can even use it in the lathe, or on a horizontal milling machine to great effect

[@thomaschandler8036]

Good job, enjoyed your talents, thanks

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@jcknives4162]

I found a different way to use the pointer to position my work under the drill. I use a punch to set a dimple. Then I put my wiggler point into the dimple and turn on the mill or drill and raise the quill. If the pointer runs around I adjust the work and set it again and repeat until the pointer runs true when lifted from the dimple. I will start next time by running the pointer true and then finding the dimple but I will still set it in the dimple, turn on the machine and then lift the quill to see if the pointer is running true. Great video. Thanks!!!

[@harleyboy9318]

I built the wiggler and tap follower they work great.

[@davidjames1007]

Thank you for sharing Sir, another great series

[@DonDegidio]

Lyle, Excellent build series. Could you make the diameter of the nose piece slightly larger ID than 1/4" to allow the double ball to be removed, since the pivot ball is 5/16"?

[@mrpete222]

maybe--try it

[@neilsbergstedt]

That was my thought too.

[@tzkelley]

Thanks for another fun project!

[@rjordans]

Great series, thanks! For getting the needle to disassemble, maybe just make a few extra of these caps and have those with their respective needles

[@rjordans]

Or maybe I should just listen to your advise of watching up to the end of the clip first...

[@mrpete222]

lol

[@PirateofCapeAnn]

Agreed with making the diameter of the edge finder ball small enough, or the hole diameter large enough to pass through the nose piece. Also, I think the Sears pin is actually a needle vise where the needle is pressed in and can be replaced if it gets damaged. Gluing the needle in sort of negated that function. Keep up the great work!!!

[@thedaijal]

I believe you can heat up the LockTite and it will come right off though, but I may be thinking about super glue, where I know you can. Anyway, Cheers.

[@tosborn56]

I always thought that a wiggler was operated in the same manner as a lapped conventional edge finder.. you gradually contact the edge of the work until the wiggler turns true and then stop when it just goes out of concentricity. Then you're 1/2 the diameter of the ball away from the true edge. If that's not the case, why the difference in use between a wiggler and a conventional edge finder? When drilling a bottom ball you could drill all the way through it and then locktite that ball up a ways on the shaft of a pointer tool, giving you a combination tool useful for lining up over punch and scribe marks and finding the edge of a workpiece. Great series. Thanks Lyle!

[@gordoneckler4537]

If a complete cap and the bent indicator rod was made as an additional assembly it could be permanently locktited together and possibly eliminate the frustration of the end coming unscrewed. Thanks for a really good tutorial video.

[@yambo59]

Really enjoy your videos, wish I had become a machinist all those years ago.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Time to buy a lathe!

[@yambo59]

Oh how I wish that were possible - I look at them all the time in the grizzly catalog and watch videos of old ones being restored, I always loved to rebuild and make things - spent years as an auto mechanic and factory worker. Like so many I lost my last job of 15 years to outsourcing and hard to get hired at 57 with outdated job skills, joint problems and assortment of other health issues blah blah --- but im glad I have the machinist community to watch and learn from, I pass what I consider a lot of quality time watching what I consider quality people. Thanks for the time you take to make videos, its time well spent and im sure it interests some to learn the trade who may otherwise have not found a calling. And still others who im sure find it an excellent hobby.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Keep an eye out on Craigslist or whatever your local equivalent is. Sometimes someone gets rid of one for a really reasonable price.

[@gordoneckler4537]

I've found that when I fasten a "VEE" shaped rest at the grinder in the correct strategic location to rest the shaft on while I rotate the shaft with the drill that the grinding of the point can be performed fairly accurately. It seems to nullify the run out of the drill chuck.

[@vistastang]

Thank you so much for the building tutorial. Without a doubt they are my favorite. Lyle I wonder if you could show the method you use for centering the tool on your work. I don't think you have ever shown that and I've yet to see it on any other channel. Also it would be very interesting to see you compare the accuracy of the wiggler to other methods you use for finding the edge. Thanks for all your videos Lyle.

[@mrpete222]

Not sure what your question means??--- "I wonder if you could show the method you use for centering the tool on your work". I intend to do a follow up in about a week on that vid.

[@kensherwin4544]

How to locate your work is relative to the spindle is exactly what he did show on the Bridgeport mill at the end.

[@vistastang]

Thank you for your reply but what I was referring to the method of centering your work to the tailstock of the lathe or visa versa. Lyle commented that you have to be sure the drill rod is centered because it is so small. How does he do that.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@philjordan1749]

One more attachment you could add would be the edge finder for round bar. Unlike the one you've made here with the ball end , the round bar edge finder has a cylindrical end on it of maybe 0.200" dia by 0.500" long. Works the same way as the ball end finder, but no need to get it exactly on the center line of the round bar.

[@kevinwillis9126]

Thanks for sharing sir...

[@trapper23ful]

Lyle, yes what can i say Thank you too long no way!! modern times bring mass production old ways enhance ability and understanding. There will in my mind never be a computer programme that can make such things in such a skillful way. You have my greatest respect and remind me so much of my school teacher in what we used to call metalwork here in the Uk. Sadly the health and safety morons killed that and most of our manufacturing has gone as a resultI shall make these yep ican buy them for less but.................. Good points to you my friend thanks for the lesson

[@larryschweitzer1007]

Nicely done, Thanks

[@gregfeneis609]

mrpete222, some needles are blunt so that when they pierce the fabric, they go between threads or yarns of a fabric instead of through them.

[@71nortcomm]

I ground points onto rods like that by clamping an angle grinder into the vise on my milling machine an putting the rod into a drill chuck. I moved the grinder over to the rod until I got a point. You could do it on a drill press with the grinder stationary and lower the rod down to the wheel.

[@CraftedChannel]

Enjoyed the series. Although I'm concerned the monkey may have given too dearly. On the end, I keep anticipating you'll say "I'll see you in the funny papers." It makes me wonder if I've heard you do that before or not. For now, I'm off to check the park.

[@730222faavs]

Hi Mr Pete, I finished my wiggler this weekend, but I cannot get my needle to run true. I am not sure where I made a mistake. I suspect I did not drill the hole quite center in the ball bearing. I will watch you videos again, I also suspect the hole in the cap bit and the shaft not lining up 100%

[@ScottandTera]

i wonder if that hole in the bent wiggler was there so it can be screwed off

[@kenzpenz]

Hah ! That's a great idea, beats trying to hold it with vise grips and marring up the tool.

[@ScottandTera]

Thanks

[@paulsprute329]

i use victrola needles for stuff like that.you can get a pack of 100 for cheep, hardend and sharp. thanks for all of your videos

[@oldfister7460]

Lyle can you please send me a link to your purchase site for buying for video's.

[@grmljegrmone8807]

Mr. Peterson, one question... As i approach the work, the wiggler is, obviously, progressively less wiggling until it skews, and at that point i'm too far in... how do i tell if i'm truly (as much as tolerances allow) on the edge and not short, lets say one thou? Thanks for the series, nice job as always.

[@stanstevens3783]

Hi mr Pete, I just watched this for the second time and picked up a few more things I didn’t see the first time. Is it possible that the hole in the bent component is to hold a circular spigot seen on some indicators? If the threaded part was made the right length it would be able to lock the spigot in position

[@edwardhugus2772]

Hello. I'm not sure by any stretch of the imagination, but the hole in the angled finder looks a LOT like a hole that a ball bearing under spring tension would index.you could use it to find an edge, "index and lock" it, change parts and slide part up to edge of finder.

[@mark314158]

Randy Richard is currently making a spherical turning tool from Hemingway kits. The plan calls for an , apparently, even more uncommon size - 1/4" x 40 tpi. He had to make his own tap ...

[@mrpete222]

I used to have a home made tap of that size. It was for making a thread for a micrometer

[@backyardmechanic921]

1/4" x 40tpi is model engineer series over here in England.

[@DonDegidio]

That tap size is available from Victor Machinery. www.victornet.com/detail/TAST-1/4-40.html

[@iranianredneckinnorthernte4438]

Time well spent

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@JCSalomon]

Should the balls perhaps have been re-hardened after drilling? I figure the ball inside the nose will wear down from friction otherwise, and the edge-finding ball is likely to get dented in use, otherwise.

[@jamesclough5350]

Great video series. Thank you. I have to ask, though, does anyone know what he meant by "donated by the brass monkey in the city park"? I get and enjoy most of his jokes and rambling, but this one went right over my head. Perhaps I'm displaying my tragic ignorance.

[@jamesclough5350]

Thanks. I don't think I'm quite old enough to start using that yet, but I'll keep it in mind.

[@bhartwigutube]

I was always under the impression that you let the wiggler snap off the work - much like an edgefinder will run true then kick off once you are on the edge... but both your video and one on edge finding by Suburban Tools indicate the wiggler should only be worked up to the point of running true. Am I correct that is what you are saying? Great video as always, by the way. I may just make a metric ball end for my PEC wiggler - since I have been unable to find any metric wiggler sets!

[@joebaileygl1500]

This is going to be my first project when I get my new lathe in a couple weeks. So someone is going to do this lol

[@mrpete222]

Yes lol

[@grzoo]

Dear teacher. There is not problem with the maker of needles but these are with round needle because the use is for thick fabric. If you ask the local sewing store, you will find the sharp needle you want.

[@robertmalsbury8477]

Thanks Mr. Pete. One question, did you assume the balls were 1/4" or actually measure them?

[@weldmaster80]

you could probably avoid making small threaded parts for alternative wigglers by just using like 4ga bar jewellery, like used for nipple rings and the like. they have very nice polished stainless bars and balls that you can easily unscrew the top to go throu the small hole in the knereled part.

[@susanbarbier5053]

Daniel Mallett I'm not sure how I feel about Mr. Pete being involved with nipple rings.

That is a good idea. I wonder how accurate the balls and their setting is

[@petek210]

"European Quality" on the needles! That was hilarious.

[@thedaijal]

Another good one. I actually did send the email for the plans as you mentioned in Part 4, so thank you. I was the 719th Like. You have one Dislike, I suppose that person took offense to the term "wiggler". Maybe a name he got from an ex or something.

[@tom7601]

Another odd ball is 0-80. .060" and 00-90 - .047".

[@jimtruesdale7522]

Great videos. Would it not be better to harden the balls again after drilling. Make them more durable. Thanks, theclockworks.biz