Acoustic Guitar Saddle : How to Compensate for Intonation

[@samohickey]

Awesome! Worked like a charm. Thank you! ❤

[@wildizer]

Fantastic video. Straight to the point without 20 minutes of waffle and babble 🙂

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks!

[@freakybuzz]

So I watched this video a few times. I got a saddle blank, did everything you did, and it turned out perfect. I’ve never made a compensated saddle before and my guitar plays perfectly in tune. Sometimes , just sometimes, the internet works as intended. Thanks!

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks a lot too!

[@hxdiey4203]

@@tixcustomsph you should try make a saddle n nut with black buffalow horn, sound really great(for me) warm tone. I made it last month 👍🏻

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks for the tip. Will try soon! 👍

[@hxdiey4203]

@@tixcustomsph 👍🏻

[@jonnramos1247]

sir papaano po kung inayos na ung nut slot height at pati ung saddle height at wala ng pag atrasan pa sa kapal ng saddle at hindi pdin intonated ang string sharp pdin pano npo un.

[@frayedsanity]

Incredible! I love learning these skills, and you've taught me another one to get the saddle height just right - trace the profile height at the saddle and the end of the neck.

[@tixcustomsph]

Happy DIY!

[@frayedsanity]

@@tixcustomsph thankyou!

[@Therapyxx]

could you please explain what is hidden behind the compensation? I had a tusq compensated saddle, brought my guitar to the tech and he swapped that to bone saddle with everythins just same radius rounded, except the B string compensation. So far everything is fine. I wouldn't say that its much better, but definitely not worse. But I plan to make my own nut and saddle later. So i just collecting info and I'm interesting if I will need to do all such compensations :) thanks in advance.

[@tixcustomsph]

Unlike electric guitar string for example gauge 10, the next to standard gauge is 13 (B) while in acoustic guitars, B string is thicker like 14. That's why we compensate B a little. It is more obvious if we use thicker gauge like 12 or 13.

[@Therapyxx]

@@tixcustomsph thanks for info :) And I just got another quiestion - I really would like to keep my 6th (low E) and 5th and probably also 4th strings almost at the same height, buuuuut.... I want to lower 1, 2 and 3rd strings (1st at most). How would you do that? sand it from the bottom with specific angle or handle this adjustments on the top (same as compensation?)

[@thedivisionbell220]

So are you just matching the cuts of the old one? Should anything be taken into consideration when installing a taller saddle? The previous owner of an acoustic I purchased had the action set too low, about 1mm at the 12th fret when relief is set correctly, so I'm concerned about ruining intonation by putting in a taller saddle in.

[@tixcustomsph]

Taller saddles might affect the intonation. It is still better to go just within the recommended limits.

[@rofertpomendia1388]

master tix, si keru berosu po ito ,hi andito ako para matuto po sayo, thank u po sa mga naunang na share mo sakin

[@tixcustomsph]

Salamat ng marami!

[@fattohead]

Hi, thanks for your efforts, it's a very enlightening video. The thing I don't understand is, I've changed my string brand and gauge size, so what kind of bridge modification should I make for a better intonation?

[@tixcustomsph]

If the intonation is flat, adjust the saddle intonation towards the neck. If sharp then the opposite.

[@Therapyxx]

Hello again, got still one question - but If I want to have custom height, lets say: 1) Right now: my strings are 1 - 2mm / 2 - 2.1mm / 3 - 2.2mm / 4 - 2.3mm / 5 - 2.4mm / 6 - 2.5mm and I have a saddle with height of 15mm (just example). 2) Target: 1 - 1.5mm / 2 - 1.6mm / 3 - 1.7mm / 4 - 1.8mm / 5 - 1.9mm / 6 - 2.5mm. As you can see, I lowered all strings by 0.5mm down. It means I have to sand my saddle by exactly 1mm from the bottom. But The 6th string - I want to keep it higher and not proportional to other strings. Maybe the 5th also, need to test it. Should I do it on step 1:41? Just correct the line to my preferences and thats it? Or should I consider something else? 3) Also I had another Idea. Do everything what you did, but with +1-2mm extra height. And then using the width of the nut: The left side is point "A" and right side point "B". - Make a 1-2mm height points from both sides and paint the line from the bottom "A" to top "B", like a hypotenuse. By this way I will reduce the height of all strings differently. 6th will be almost not affected and keep the same height, 5th more affected, 4th more that 5th, 3rd more than 4th, 2nd more than 3rd and 1st more than 2nd. On the end of the day I will get something like - 1.6mm / 2 - 2.1mm / 3 - 2.5mm / 4 - 2.8mm / 5 - 2.9mm / 6 - 3.0mm. - Logic is X - 1, x -2, x-3, x-4, x-5 for each next string, thicker strings keep higher for hard bass execution. Not sure if I explained correctly, probably need to paint a picture... But the links on YT are banned. So regarding point Nr 2 and 3. Do you think its good Idea to do like this? The difference is: in Nr 2. I'm correcting my preferences from the top of the saddle. And in Nr. 3. I'm correcting it from the bottom

[@tixcustomsph]

Let's make it simple. Here's the trick. The thinner the string, the lower. The thicker the string, the higher. Distribute them all in a gradual manner and everything's gonna be fine 😉

[@Therapyxx]

@@tixcustomsph yeah this is exactly what I described in Nr 3. Sanding the bottom (all width), but in gradual manner with angle :D If it won't hurt the compensation/intonation, then perfect, thank you :)

[@martysradioshow5979]

Wow ang ganda sir ng pag kaka Costum nyo sa saddle thank you po

[@tixcustomsph]

Salamat ng marami!

[@sameerahmedkori6789]

Can i do this on a flat fretboard which doesnt have radius?

[@tixcustomsph]

There's no need if it is a classical guitar. Their saddles are usually straight.

[@locar12]

Wtf. Philippines pala to! Galing sir! 🙌🏽

[@tixcustomsph]

Salamat ng marami sir!

[@yannie915]

If i couldn't do this myself how much would a customer pay for someone to do this for them?

[@tixcustomsph]

Depends on the location. A new bone saddle here costs around $2 to $4

[@HePE27]

Bro paanu kung mali talaga ang intonation... Tapos gusto mo hanaping ang tamang compensation?Paanu mo i-trial and error? Kasi sa electric madali lang kasi screw lang.. sa acoustic may maganda bang approach? Salamat ng marami.

[@tixcustomsph]

Kalimitan ng ganun ang sitwasyon ay pwedeng hindi sa saddle lalo na at intonated naman noong bago. Minsan ay strings mismo ang may problema lalo na yung mga fake. Kung nung bago pa lang ang gitara ay wala na sa intonation, pwedeng mali ang position ng bridge. May mga ganyan na akong na enounter. Wala sa scala.

[@markghelregis8333]

Why guitar saddle looks like that? What's the purpose of that spaces?

[@tixcustomsph]

It's for intonation. This one is called "compensated" and the other one is just plain straight.

[@arvinsantos2002]

Pano kung yung action sa 12 is 3.5mm pa pero konti nalang yung puwede mabawas sa bridge kasi tatama na yung string dun sa saddle?

[@tixcustomsph]

Kung makapal pa ang bridge ay pwede naman i shave kaso pag ang sound hooe na ang lumubog ay need na ng repair. Pwede rin naman na baka di pa na aadjust ang truss rod

[@arvinsantos2002]

@@tixcustomsph nag adjust na po ako ng truss rod, kapag flat nasa 3.0mm ang sukat. Kapag medyo bow, 3.5mm naman. nagbawas na din ako ng bridge, 2mm na nabawas ko sa bridge. Yung nut ok na din, mababa na din play sa 1st fret. Yung saddle nalang last option ko, btw naka 0.10G po ako na strings. Salamat 👍

[@mrrcrogersjr]

Ok, I love this video!! A few questions. What type of file are you using, and what grit of sandpaper?

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks! I use needle files for nut/saddle jobs and 240 to 400 grit for sanding.

[@mwilson70201]

Very nice. Very nice.

[@sannypsaykho]

what type of saddle? is it bone?

[@tixcustomsph]

Yes it is 👍

[@TKevinBlanc]

Why is it that the b string needs such dramatic intonation compensation? I know it does, I just don't know why.

[@tixcustomsph]

Standard acoustic guitar string gauge has a diff of .004" between high e and B (ex .010 for e and .014 for B) compared to electric guitar strings of just .003 only (ex. .010 for e and . 013 for B) that I think is the reason why B is compensated for it's tension and intonation.

[@luisgalon6930]

Meron po akong bone saddle kaso walang lining na kagaya sa nut, wala po kasi akong lagari oks lang po ba yon?

[@tixcustomsph]

Kelangan ng lagari o nut file sir.

[@luisgalon6930]

Ok po salamattt!🙌

[@kelvin9518]

My guitar strings are a bit sharper at 12th frets how should I repair

[@tixcustomsph]

THe distance between the inner (finger board side) of the nut and the 12th fret (top center) should be the same as or slightly longer than the distance between the 12th fret (top center) and the top of the saddle (1st string). If not, intonate as demonstrated in the vid or if not so sure, let the luthier or guitar tech rectify the problem.

[@kelvin9518]

@@tixcustomsph okay thank you !

[@henrimavignier]

@@tixcustomsph Hi! I have a classical guitar and the fretted 12th fret note is sharp on all strings. I changed the tension of the strings from normal to hard. Did the new strings cause this?

[@henrimavignier]

I'm sorry for my bad english. I'm from Brazil

[@tixcustomsph]

Hi Henri, I believe string tension affects the intonation and that means your observation is probably right. When we change the string gauge, we usually need to adjust the trussrod to compensate the neck relief. Please search some vids on how to set the neck relief of a guitar. It might solve the problem, or look for a luthier in your area to set for you. Thanks and goodluck!

[@sKid-qd1vg]

Ano porpose nyan sir sa guitar pag ganyan suddle?????

[@tixcustomsph]

More on intonation sya 👍

[@jeanlawson9133]

Awesome 😎 stuff

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks!

[@regienaldlucero2236]

Ask lang po if nka set up s guitar ay gauge 12..pwdng bng lagyan ng gauge 11 kht hnd n ito i set up??? Pno kung hnd ipaset up at kinabit nlng ng bsta anong mgging effect po nun s guitar? Or vice versa if nka 11 to gauge 12 need pren bng i paset up?

[@Huginnm]

vice versa kailangan i set up. different gauge means different string tensions. and string tension will dictate your string action.

[@tixcustomsph]

Well said.

[@lpjbird]

I have a Epiphone Hummingbird, the Gibson inspired one & it has a compensated saddle but the B-G string buzz if you aggressively play the strings...The top of this saddle is quite flat at those areas & I'm wondering if that's causing the buzz. Everything else checks out to be correct i.e.: nut slots, level frets, bridge pins, string height, string break @ bridge, new strings, tight tuners. I've done all I know except for that. I did remove the piezo p/u and replace the saddle with a new one due to the difference in height after removing p/u but I'm at a loss except for the shape of the top of the saddle...Sorry for the long post I just didn't want folks bringing up all the points I've mentioned above. What do you think, round the top over somewhat or go jump off a bridge?

[@tixcustomsph]

Also makes me wonder what's really going on but rounding the top is a good idea and making it sure that it follows tha radius of the frets. Truss rod setting is also important. If the buzz comes from lower frets, it might mean that it's convex. Capo the first fret and press all the last frets, there should be a little gap between strings and the top of 7th to 9th frets. Goodluck!

[@patrickpamintuan8814]

Lodi! Galing!

[@tixcustomsph]

Salamat po sa suoport!

[@fbr4056]

How do you know how deep to shave the slots ?

[@tixcustomsph]

Just follow the fret radius. I usually place a long ruler on top of every nut slot and the saddle and measure their heights. With the neck straight, 2 to 2.4mm low E and 1.8 to 2mm high e.

[@Huginnm]

so what do you do if the saddle radius is a bit flat which makes full bends choke on 2nd & 3rd strings? can you manually raise the saddle radius on those areas or do you have to start crafting a new bridge from scratch?

[@tixcustomsph]

That's the reason why we use radius gauge. Acoustic guitar string action setting is no different than violin string action setting. To correct the choke concern about flat saddle radius, just put a shim under the piezo. It will raise the saddle a bit. That is when you can re-radius the saddle as desired.

[@Huginnm]

@@tixcustomsph ooohhh... Nice! So my original idea was right... But wouldn't the saddle have any problems by being on an uneven surface?

[@tixcustomsph]

You should shim it from end to end then re-radius the saddle from e to E. Alignment is very critical to those with piezo pickups to have balanced output. Even to those without pickups, alignment is still a must to have a balanced vibration from saddle to bridge.

[@Huginnm]

@@tixcustomsph Thank you! This was where I got stuck with in my limited knowledge and you have given me the best response so far! Oo nga naman... If you don't have enough material to shave from the top then shimmy that f*cker from the bottom to raise the whole thing! Genius.

[@tixcustomsph]

Minsan pag sobrang bigat ng dinadala kelangan lang bumalik sa basic 😉🤘

[@pink_mint_]

Good

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks!

[@jessegoulet9046]

Why not just use the old saddle to draw the outline of it on the blank? Saves all the measuring, and less room for error.

[@tixcustomsph]

Good point but I think many still learned how to do it without the old one.

[@geoffchr1506]

@@tixcustomsph Also I lost my saddle so perfect for me, thanks! :D

[@tixcustomsph]

You're welcome!

[@omarmacabuhay3823]

Saan po location niyo sir,,,tnx po

[@tixcustomsph]

San Miguel Alaminos Laguna po sir. Thanks

[@augustinechinnappanmuthria7042]

Super ❤️

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks!

[@gandhisfrets]

panalo!!

[@tixcustomsph]

Maraming salamat!

[@andreacastelli9938]

Top!!!

[@tixcustomsph]

Thanks!

[@sasboy1487]

giggity