Sand Blaster VS Wet Blaster!

[@ALWhiteAuthor]

With the wet blasting setup, set the bucket on top of the engine, and the vibrations will keep the media flowing so you don't have to keep wiggling the nozzle.

[@c50ge]

Great idea!

[@Comm0ut]

An easy way to add air is adding another compressor instead of replacing with a much more expensive larger unit. The new addition doesn't necessarily need its own tank but more capacity is better. For example instead of a 10HP (not cheap to wire and most homes don't have three phase power in the US) I run two 5HP industrial comps and a large receiver tank (which lives outdoors). I can run one or both as needed. Compressors don't get jealous of each other so feel free to connect as many as you like.

[@TKCL]

Very true point!

[@TheJagjr4450]

my dad took an old pressure pot and hooked it up with only about 10lbs of air pressure so there was a positive feed on the sand. VS using the venturi tube.

[@wvrockcrusher]

A word of advice with those wet blasters. Make sure you size the blast nozzles to the PSI and GPM on your washer. There was a sizing chart when I bought mine to go by and while it works really well, I made some modifications right away. I'm only running a 3k PSI washer, but it is 3.8 GPM which is key to sand flow, more so than PSI. I put a ball valve in the sand supply line to meter the sand flow because it will unnecessarily waste a lot of sand. I have to run mine at only about 20% opening to get optimal blast flow. Keep the sand supply hose on top of the wash wand because water will backflow when you let off the trigger and plug the supply line. The suction tube for sand pickup just needs to be open at the top for air supply. I just bury it in the media to the top and go. Buy extra nozzles and gaskets when you order the blast kit because you will need them. I use the red bag black diamond like you have which I believe is the 60/80 grit size without looking on the bag. I tried some coarse grit, and it didn't feed well and also plugs the nozzle, which is too small to use with it. If everything is right, it works great, and I can really cover some area fairly quick depending on how scaly or thick the rust and paint is. I also mix up baking soda and water to spray down my parts immediately to control flash rust. It works ok but there is a product called Hold Tight you can buy just for this use. It's kind of expensive which is why I just use baking soda spray. I like the wet blast method better than my 150-pound pressure blaster because I'm not running my compressor to death and there is no dust to worry about. Blasting is messy by nature either way you go so if you need to do a lot all the time, so laser cleaning would definitely be on the list, but I don't do enough to justify that cost. If I were to win the lottery, then yes, I would have one ordered today.

[@TKCL]

Thanks for the info. I agree the more I research gpm is far more important than psi.

[@mikesnifferpippets3733]

Looks like your next project is a giant “rock tumbler” you can put those tank caps into and let run for a couple days. Now that would be impressive. Finding a drum big enough in diameter would be the real challenge though.

[@TKCL]

Oh boy! Talk about LOUD!

[@pampilgrim2274]

Hi, Andrew! Great demonstration! I can’t understand how you ever found time to run your old job. You have many skills you can use to make a living. I continue to be very proud of you and Tiffany.

[@TKCL]

Thank you for your support. Always a lot going on around here. Thank you!

[@grayrlsc1]

when I was working we had a sandblaster that used metal filings that were like little razor blades and we used them on porcelain and it would actually drill right into them if you did not keep it moving

[@TKCL]

That's wild

[@JDMM150]

Steel shot blasting pellets or Iron Silicate media might work on that paint. You might need to build a blasting room to save the blast media as will get expensive doing it outdoors.

[@mgmmac36]

The biggest difference, wet sandblasting sets off flash-rust immediately. I know this because I worked for a pressure washer manufacturer years ago. The big advantage to wet blasting is that there are no certificate requirements. You may want to consider walnut beads as a blasting media.

[@TKCL]

By flash rust do you mean the quick forming surface rust layer due to being wet? If so that's OK as I intend for the pits to rust anyway. It looks great once it's an even color.

[@mgmmac36]

@TKCL yes, that's the flash rust.

[@redfields5070]

What certificate requirements are you talking about?

[@mgmmac36]

@redfields5070 many municipalities require a certificate or license for those doing dry sandblasting as the sandblasting media gets into the air and flies everywhere. Wheras wet sandblasting media immediately falls to the ground, not creating the same health problems.

[@redfields5070]

@@mgmmac36 No restrictions where I live.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Down-side to air sand blaster is, you need a MONSTER air compressor. I'm talking 40 gallons and 6-7 true HP.

[@jeremiahs45]

Cool comparison. I can remember years ago we used a product called zip strip. Came in a metal can and was a gel type paint remover. Was some nasty quick working stuff. Not sure if you can buy it anymore

[@TKCL]

I wish I could get something like that for this paint.

[@shanebiggers8437]

We use river sand here that we scoop up from the river. It’s like sand from the beach it’s just brown. Just make sure it’s roughly clean sand

[@TKCL]

And dry

[@richardc3208]

I use to do the the same, but would spread on an old piece of tin for drying purposes.

[@AdamLProductions]

Have you tried a propane torch to burn the paint off? I bet that would take care of it INSANELY fast. I have one to burn through weeds and holy COW does that thing put out some serious heat. It's 1,800,000 BTU. I'm going to try it on my metal gate to get the paint off it.

[@joshuasutton1395]

Try the dustless blaster

[@VJ-ft2xj]

See if you can get a hold of some methylene chloride. Thats what was in the now banned "aircraft steipper". Dilute it appropriately and apply to the paint. I haven't seen any paint that stuff won't remove. Last time i looked amazon sold it, but may be cheaper at a chemical supply.

[@TKCL]

Thanks

[@markb.1259]

On the wet system maybe the pickup tube is supposed to rest on the top of the bucket of media. As it sucks up the media it'll just gradually follow the level of the media down. The way you pushed the pickup rod all the way to the bottom, the media at the bottom is under pressure from all the media on top of it. Maybe that's causing the issue of not picking up the media well.

[@TKCL]

Maybe, but I've researched it a lot since posting. Appears a professional 4 gpm or higher pressure is truly needed for pickup.

[@hammerslap5639]

Honestly, i think the pickup tube on the wet blaster is meant to ride up on top of the medium and it floats down as you go.

[@TKCL]

I think you are correct

[@shawnmts7109]

It's frustrating, but letting it suck itself down has worked for me. Next thing you know something else malfunctions.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Yep, and it's all about finesse. If set up properly, it works perfectly. If it leans over as it goes down, it's a headache.

[@donm-t7k]

For striping paint you should look up on Eastwood website the Contour SCT surface conditioner I think there may be someone else that has the same looking thing for sale. It seams to work very well good luck enjoy your content keep it going Thanks

[@TKCL]

I own a similar model, it's crazy slow and mars up the surface finish.

[@donm-t7k]

@@TKCL Oh I didn't know you had one and I don't but was considering one I have seen them being used after your message I will stay away from one. Thanks Don

[@TKCL]

@@donm-t7k no don't get me wrong, they work great for what their intended for. For grinding large areas and removing rust off of metal, they are perfect. They are not suited for removing multiple layers of industrial paint off of propane tanks.

[@MikeBremmer]

You should give a laser cleaner a try. It has a higher initial investment, but I think it would be quicker and give you much better results.

[@TKCL]

Sadly they start at $10k....Way more than I can justify.

[@TBJK07Jeep]

Laser you have to be extremely careful of your surroundings. If someone comes behind you to watch, it could easily permanently blind them. You pretty much have to lock yourself in a room with no way for anyone else to get in.

[@doublebitoutdooradventures]

Glass media was a great choice for us when we were redoing oil drilling rigs in Wyoming. If you can find it I recommend it for sure

[@hammerslap5639]

see if you can find a rental place with one of those industrial laser rust removers? also, i know in the Navy we dealt with the needle scalers and depending on the metal of the needles may not pit the metal too bad.

[@TKCL]

Thanks

[@rogermccann7627]

Did you have to modify the red tank in any way before use ??? does the hose , nozzle , gauges , water filter , etc. have to be "upgraded" ??????

[@TKCL]

No, it's all included in the kit.

[@cameronwatson5863]

I had an LP gas business. We had a tank at a ReadyMix plant for years. It need repainted. It has a slim of concrete all over it. Up to almost 1/2 " (or maybe a little more on the top). We had a big Northern tool PW it was around 4000 psi. We used one of the adapters on it with sand blasting sand. it worked great but you could see it rusting right behind where you were working.

[@WeldersforJesus]

I don't know much about this subject and it might seem far fetched but what if you set up a huge kiddie pool of some sort to use electrolysis to remove the rust rotating the tank as you go 🤷

[@TKCL]

No idea if it would work to be honest

[@bradrock7731]

@@TKCL It would. It's not real fast either. But you can be doing other things while it's cooking.

[@chrisazeredo711]

I run my small alc sand blaster with a 185cfm tow behind compressor for sandblasting consistently uniform. For this type of work try using crused glass it will flow better and requires less cfm than coal slag. Northerntool sells it under the name Shark Bite #49360 code. Also with the wet blast elevate the bucket so it helps the siphon process but you need to run a pressure washer with at least a 3.5gph pump 4000 psi this will keep constant flow of aggregate thru the siphon.

[@TKCL]

Thank you

[@jerrydemas2020]

Andrew, As I have address this in one of your live streams. For the sand blaster you need to dry the air ,because when compressed air is released it becomes cold. There fore it will condense the water vapor in the hose and will clog the system. If you lived in Arizona or New Mexico where the humidity is low-not a problem. No so for Florida.

[@TKCL]

I do have a small air dryer setup, it's definitely nothing nice.

[@bradjedlicka5117]

Ik this would be more work for you but where you are putting it in a bucket, could you somehow seal off too well enough to where you could pressurize the bucket with just a few psi with a regulator and improve the flow of the wet blaster

[@TKCL]

After doing quite a bit of research, the biggest problem is lack of gallons per minute flow on the pressure washer.

[@PJ-uv9fr]

Interesting comparison....I had never seen a wet blaster setup before and yep, the higher the PSI & GPM the better it should work. I do agree with others comments about trying walnut hulls, they work great for most general blasting. At least if they would work, it would be better than the coal - that scares me.

[@onlyychevys]

If you have an industrial sand blasting place close, you might be surprised how cheap it is to have them blasted.

[@TKCL]

We don't, I live way out in the country.

[@plow9133]

i have a 100 lb pot that I run a Dayton 30 gal 2 stage compressor that i had to bust up to 150PSI and run constant 70 PSI that is gas powered using 00 ought sand, your worst enemy is moisture I have to run 2 water traps in line with each other to keep moisture out of the pot, powdered coating is that hardest to get off

[@dan2496]

I have always done a lot of sand blasting in the past with a hopper that held 4 bags and was run from a 4 cylinder diesel engine compressor setup.. We have found that the dry play sand that lows sells worked really great and a lot cheaper than the media. Have to buy the stuff in the store that is dry. Sand with moisture is a total waste of time and money. But the dry stuff works great. Never used the pressure washer type blaster but seen some larger units and they seem to work really well and keeps the dust way down also..

[@NickA-t2e]

long comment here but I hope my experiance helps. Restoring clasic cars I have MANY hours of experiance with these typs of pressurized sandblasters in a 'at home' setting. @5:23 in the video, the adjustment you are making to completly (or almost completly) cut off the air bypassing the pressure pot will result in a clog 110% of the time. From what you said on camera I know you already have a lot of this figured out but heres my take on it. Think of the two valves like a clutch an gas pedal; they have to work together to find the right "balance" to run efficiently. The valve at the bottom will most generally be open just a crack to allow a trickle of sand into the air line (this air moves slow). The valve up top lets air 'bypass' the pressure pot; this valve lets FAST moving air deliver the sand to the work piece. This is a fine balance; too much sand without enough fast moving bypassed air will slow down the delivery of sand to your work piece enough that you are not removing anything, just dumping sand untill it clogs up like a game of Tetris. Too much air not engouh sand an your wasting time... Somewhere in the middle you will find the sweet spot where your delivering just enough sand to avoid slowing down that fast moving air to deliver the media hard enough aginst the work piece to make good progress an keep the line from cloggin. Humidity plays a big roll in the adjusments of the valves. The more moisture in your air the more the sand sticks together. Unless you have a comercial grade air dryer system that can provide bone dry air it will be a constant strugle to keep things in adjustment to run clog free. The heat generated from compressing large volumes of air will condensate the humidity out of the air once it hits the colder air in your tank. Draining the water vaper from the tank between bags helps me run smoother on big jobs. but letting the air compressor cool down helps the most. It is what it is... Up here in New England there is very little humidity in the air during the winter... I "try" to do the bulk of my sandblasting then. I dont have Any experiance with reducing the PSI supplied to the sandblaster with a regulator but that might help your air compressor keep up with the CFMs? My air compressor that provides about 20-25 cfm still runs almost constantly to keep up with my pressure blaster; it's about the same size as yours. Also I have not found any other sandblasting media that is more effective at removing heavy rust than the black dimond you are using. like the other comment said the DRY play sand works too but I think the black dimond is a bit more effective. Sometimes when money is tight I will lay out a BIG tarp and collect the used sand. I just make sure to run it threw a aluminum window screen to catch any debris too big for the tip. Its good for a few trips threw the blaster. It does eventualy looses its cutting edge an its not worth the effort to reuse. But reusing it just once is a 50% material cost reduction! I have never used the medium grit media either. I am curius to see what your experiance will be with it! I believe it will be too aggresive for my car pannels I've heard a lot of talk about some more comercial sized sandblasters causing heavy warping to pannels thats why some guys use less agressive media like soda blasting or crushed glass to avoid damaging the sheet metal. in closing; to save money on blasting media I start with a twisted wire wheele to knock off the heavy scale then Switch to the sand blaster to clean up the bulk of the paint an rust. I then deal with the stubbern pitted rust with a heavy grit flapper disk on the right angle grinder. (not on sheetmetal) If its going to be visible I finish up blending the flapper disk marks with the sanblaster to give it a nice uniform surface finish. Or I will use my Bauer surface conditioning tool if its something thats going to be sanded smooth. I see eastwood sells a simular CONTOUR SCT tool with more abrasive drum options and wire wheels. I would love to try them but I havent yet. I hope this is usfull to you or someone who reads this!

[@TKCL]

Very good information. The more I look into it, the more I realize a air blaster isn't feasible for me in my situation. I'd have to spend thousands on a proper setup for heavy blasting. I also have a conditioning tool and many grinders. The marks they leave behind ruins the surface finish for me since I leave it raw steel. I then have to spend a lot of time smoothing out the grinder marks. I belive a professional pressure washer with a quality blasting kit is probably the best bet for me.

[@rongray4847]

Hi Andrew, another very good review, Thankyou. You will find that perfect match. 👍👍❤️❤️🇨🇦

[@ryanzynda5114]

Great review video. Thank you for sharing. 😊

[@TKCL]

Thank you for the support!

[@firepinto]

I would try combining the sand blaster tank with the wet blaster kit. I think gravity would be your friend trying to get that heavy medium to drop into the hose and get caught up in the vacuum stream. Another option could be to zip tie some of the high pressure hose to the slash cut tubes in the bucket so that the vibration agitates the media and keeps it flowing.

[@dougdavis4439]

Great information Andrew. That paint is no joke!

[@TKCL]

It's the only part of this process that's miserable to me.

[@redfields5070]

Use a dry sandblaster.

[@s_ren1641]

I got a few things I'm looking to blast clean. As soon as I started looking into it heavily I found that both the type of media and size matters for the application. Find several media producers and they should have charts for recommended uses.

[@Tripring2000]

With the pressure washer setup, maybe you need to build a media feeder that the hose comes out of the bottom of the container to allow gravity and suction to work together.

[@aliasfred]

Have you considered chemical dipping?

[@TKCL]

I don't have anyone around me that offers that, and I'm not set up to do that.

[@maximanden]

Very interesting video :) Should probably dedicate an area to blast in, lots of blastmedia in the lawn.

[@rowdyridesbryanacres3106]

A Big Grinder with a wire wheel, 40 grit on a 8” dual action sander, Eastwood has a 4” wide drum grinder that has every grit even wire wheels. None of them are as easy as burning it off. I use the same pressure washer blaster for prepping semi trailer landing gear for paint. I use bags of soda from harbor freight. I try to keep the hose as straight as possible and I pit the siphon tube on top so water don’t go backwards into the tube when you let off the trigger and clog the hose. If you try the soda blast it will burn the grass.

[@TKCL]

Thanks Brian! I have a drum grinder, it still takes forever on that paint.

[@nwngunner]

@@TKCL Here is one you have not thought of, and have not seen it mentioned. You need to setup and electrolysis tank. It uses a big tank, which with big stuff can be hard and electricity. It disolves away the rust and paint. I would use an old school transformer welder to power your system on big things. Most guys use a transformer battery charger, think dumb farmer charger.

[@frrapp2366]

you might try strapping a vibrating sander to the bucket and tilting it maybe even strap it to the hose just outside the bucket? havent done much blasting good to see a comparison i have a hf sand blaster cabinet but havent got my shop set up to set IT up yet have fun !!!

[@GlennBailey-cu4rx]

try out sandblasting service near by for an estimate. they have the big guns

[@johnkirby6547]

Interesting comparison for sure. Hope you find the sweet medium that works best.

[@TKCL]

I think I might have found something.

[@b-lopez394]

TKCL, If you have a area in your property that doesn't have any grass and gravelly maybe drag the tank with your tractor and possibly remove the paint.

[@m9ovich785]

Thanks Andrew. I'm gonna have to give a Wet blaster a try. I have an 4000/4GPM with an 8HP engine.. That VEVOR Blaster is a splitting copy of the HF one cept the Deadman Nozzle.

[@TKCL]

I'm actually looking at a professional pressure washer in the 4k 4 gpm range. Let me know how yours works. Everything I'm reading says higher gpm is far more important than psi to get the wet blasters to work correctly.

[@m9ovich785]

@@TKCL The higher GPM will create more suction so the venturi will work better.

[@TKCL]

@@m9ovich785 exactly!

[@mfd4505]

In 1st. I have seen people using garnet as media and it works. However it was a dedicated machine. The Vevor seems to work, just maybe not for heavy removal. Interesting testing.

[@brucemitchell5637]

Nope, I'm first!

[@AdamDeal-KF0PRI]

you got it!

[@jp34604]

The Venturi effect is a specific example of Bernoulli's principle, which states that an increase in fluid velocity results in a decrease in static pressure. Bernoulli's principle itself is an application of the conservation of energy, which states that energy is never created but only converted. The Venturi effect is a fluid flow principle that describes how a fluid's velocity increases and its pressure decreases when it passes through a constricted area The Venturi effect can be observed in nature, such as when wind blows through mountain passes. It can also be used in many engineering applications, including Venturi injectors are used in pressure washers and other industrial washing applications to mix water with a chemical solution. The injectors exploit the Venturi effect to create a depression in the line that allows the chemical to be sucked in.

[@Thetromboneman09]

Have you looked into getting one of the lasers? Can use it to clear the paint and rust and as welder

[@TKCL]

I have, but they are extremely expensive.

[@CrystalParanormally]

I'm sure you'll be able to find the perfect product! Hope everyone joins us on the live tonight at 7PM EST. Always fun and informative!

[@paulcochran1721]

Would it be worth your time to make a large scale blast cabinet? Or perhaps a dip tank ? Great video.

[@TKCL]

Not at the moment, I'm not full time into the welding for others.

[@upsjeff7]

Try tilting the media bucket so gravity feeds the media down to the pickup tube.

[@brucesumner6993]

You need a much larger compressor and industrial sandblaster to fulfill your needs. Are the end products worth the investment?

[@markfletcher4933]

I want one those fire pits.

[@brianscott8920]

I use play sand in my wet blaster. Same Amazon one you got. A lot cheaper and no concerns with the blasting media everywhere. The sand just moxies in with my sandy soil. Looks like you are already wearing respirator so you are protected from the silica.

[@brianscott8920]

I also run it through a screen to pull out the larger gravel that can plug it up.

[@TKCL]

Problem is the last 3 times I've bought play sand it was ALL wet. It won't feed properly being wet. I also have to travel really far for the play sand.

[@robertmalis4493]

I’d like to compare that what they say is medium to another companies medium that just seems so big I’ve done some sandblasting before and I used a medium and it was nowhere near that size. I was using ground up walnut shell Great video though

[@HalfPint5811]

Can you burn pine in them to get paint off?

[@TKCL]

Absolutely, but I'm trying to avoid need to cut, split and dry wood for this. It's labor I won't get paid for.

[@ShaneZettelmier]

How does the price on that media blaster compared to sand? For something like this I would go for the cheapest media possible because you’re not worried about it smooth shiny finish. I’ve never used blasting media before, but sand worked fine. I wonder if you could just use regular sand from your driveway if you had the right size sifter screen. 🤔

[@johnmiller2278]

Andrew on your wet sander, were you getting enough vacuum when you had that side shoved all the way down In the bucket and bag?

[@TKCL]

No, I need a higher gpm pressure washer.

[@dannymac4668]

What if you tried adding some positive pressure to the bucket with a blower to persuade the media to go in the hose?

[@TKCL]

I honestly think it's lack of GPM my weak pressure washer is providing. I e been researching it a lot since making this video.

[@GenXBiker]

Think laser. They are very fast, and perfectly gets everything off down to the metal. Minor issue is the price but we know you can afford it ;-)

[@aliasfred]

He said previously he can't.

[@TKCL]

I don't have $10k laying around for one. Plus what worries me is repairs or parts. If I did metal work full time it be easier to justify.

[@thomaspittman3030]

I am in South Georgia and know some local folks with a large diesel powered industrial sand blaster. Maybe see how many you can load on a trailer and haul up here. I can get you the contact info if interested.

[@TKCL]

I appreciate that, but it's not worth it for the occasional pits. The fuel and time would really increase the coat of the pits. I need something here for small or big projects.

[@Glenn_and_ShannonsSalty_Life]

I’d be willing to bet money that if you were using one of those 6000+psi pressure washers like they use to blast the grit and bark off trees at a paper mill, it would work like a charm!

[@kentcostello5286]

I never had good luck with a sandblaster. I never seen a water blaster tho looks easier. But measur .

[@radmilamiljanic5977]

💪

[@HalfPint5811]

Silicon Carbide. Try that.

[@ronnieriley5557]

I used brown sand sifted more coarse than the white

[@TKCL]

I need to try that

[@wallaceloper637]

It would be best if you had a tarp so you could catch your media and get a larger blaster Rent one if you have a large order time is money. just saying

[@glennr9913]

I'm on a very slow connection, so I didn't watch the entire video. It's obvious you're inexperienced with the equipment & the abrasives. I just wanted to mention that you might want to try burning the paint instead of, or before blasting. Place your domes upside down over a propane turkey fryer burner and cook them until the paint turns to ash. Then you'll just have a little rust to remove.

[@AdamDeal-KF0PRI]

Laser would work faster but like you said $$$$! maybe vevor could get you one? im supprised they dont!

[@TKCL]

I wish!

[@AdamDeal-KF0PRI]

@@TKCL i hear ya only way now is burn it off! or just sell them as is cause it takes to long! just an idea!

[@--_DJ_--]

Is coal based the best product to be using? It seems like a terrible thing for the lawn, your lungs and makes quite the mess, especially if the dogs get into it and track it in the house.

[@jonathangreenawalt5724]

Why not just use a wire wheel with a grinder?

[@TKCL]

As mentioned, no wire wheel I've tried removes three layers of this paint. It's horrible to deal with. Even using an aggressive wheel in my 15 amp grinder is a pain.

[@paulgrice6766]

I FEEL LIKE WITH THE WET BLASTER THAT FEED TUBE NEEDS TO BE AT THE BOTTOM OF SOME KIND OF HOPPER THAT YOU LOAD MEDIA IN TOP WITH FEED TUBE AT VERY BOTTOM RUN VENT OUT TOP

[@LorenTedford]

Yeah whatever Air compressor you were using isn't big enough.. When I was working Security for a Large Manufacture plant there crap would peal the skin right off your arm it was so strong. Your looking for an Air Compressor that can Maintain 200 psi output and at least a 100 Gallon tank for cycling max media psi I think was 150 but thats some getting into Industrial I think.. As far as water Sandblasters I think they start at around 4k and then go up from there at least the good ones.. But yeah its super expensive and I get it trying to save money. At the machine shop I worked at they had a dedicated room for the dry sandblast and I don't understand it all exactly but they had vents in the floor where they could collect up and reuse the blast material some how. I am sure there is more into it than that but just some ideas.

[@LorenTedford]

I know this is stupid expensive but.... Look up or google up "QST 80/120 Scroll Compressor and 80 Gallon Air Tank Kit".. I really think that's what you need for that kinda work. But here is the deal when your tank gets too low in Air you are going to need to wait it out and that is on all compressors. But this compressor kit should be better at keeping up than the traditional shop compressor.

[@LearningToLiveTexasHomestead]

you should probably build you a blasting area so all that media doesn't build up in your yard or grass

[@mjm917]

Did you consider CO2 / dry ice blasting? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry-ice_blasting

[@frijoli9579]

On those big jobs, I would pay a sandblaster to do it. They are pretty reasonable, fast and thorough.

[@TKCL]

I need blasting too often and for smaller projects.

[@frijoli9579]

@@TKCL I would definitely keep the dry and wet blasting stuff, just not for those tanks or big stuff.

[@TKCL]

I'll definitely keep the sand blaster

[@jordanmunzlinger7709]

try a needle paint remover.

[@5150cash]

Hmmm 🤔 I wonder if it will work to scuff up a truck bed to spray some bed liner 🤔🤔🤔🤷🏽‍♂️🤷🏽‍♂️🤷🏽‍♂️

[@teveler]

Funny I was thinking the same thing. I really want to do the bed of my truck, but do not want to run a flap disk for 4 hours.

[@AdamDeal-KF0PRI]

It'll work on Black Beauty

[@richardc3208]

​@@AdamDeal-KF0PRIthat's some good stuff. We had a plant locally and when it rained you could scoop it up off the side of the road.

[@scottchampion6188]

You may be better off with a steam cleaner