Accord VSA Actual Fix Part 1 Wheel Speed Sensors Replacement

[@bruce-bruce7975]

Thanks for the video.

[@UltimatePostman]

You are welcome!

[@Ieatzboltz]

What fuses are they so I can check

[@slinky702]

Great explanation. U have a new subscriber. Thank for the video

[@UltimatePostman]

You're welcome. Glad to help!

[@normanhayashi382]

My Honda Accord Euro CL9 (aka Acura TSX in the US) had both VSA & D lights flashing. As I went to the engine to check both engine & transmission oil levels I found a rat/possum nest in the transmission area under the battery tray - turns out the critter had chewed off the wire to the linear shift solenoid 😵‍💫 Now I'm ordering a new solenoid plug as the critter chewed off the whole length of wire and left me nothing to work with 😅

[@UltimatePostman]

That stinks. Since you're mentioning rats chewing cables, my neighborhood has been having reports of rats causing issues, odly enough, my accord just started having AC issues, and my wife is thinking it's due to rats.

[@fabianrossini1691]

Hi! I replaced the 4 sensor, I checked the break lights, they are good, I disconnect the battery for more than 15 minutes, I checked the fuses, they are good. I took the car to autozone to get the obdII scan and no codes found. Lights on the dash boar still on :(. This is a 2012 Honda accord 4 cylinders. Thanks

[@UltimatePostman]

Sad to hear the light is still on. Make sure they're all connected securely (listen for the click). It could be that you got defective parts, or that your ABS and/or VSA unit is actually bad. Past that, other than maybe going to another shop to make sure it wasn't a defective scanner... you may need a better scanner. You can try to short the pins, and doing the steering wheel fix, (there are a few videos on that). Past that, you'll need a mechanic to help you out.

[@lasith24]

Is this relates to 84-1 sensor logic failure code? I have 84-1 code. VSA light goes off every key switch off cycle. VSA comes back on when I hit 40Kmph & stays in until I switch off the engine. Any suggestions?

[@UltimatePostman]

I forget what the code for the wheel speed sensor was, I just looked it up after the smog guys showed me the code - I didn't take a photo of it, will have to search my history on my computers. The brake sensor I took a photo of it and it was 68-21. As far as my car, my VSA light would turn on after I was driving and started pressing the brake. Sometimes it would happen right away, but usually it was coming on within 1/2 mile. I would recommend looking up the codes via google, but the scanner may actually say what the error is related too (wheel speed sensor, brake position switch, etc.), and you use that and the number to find out what parts you may have to replace. If you've tried the wheel speed sensors on all wheels, and then the brake position switch, see if there is another code. Also, check your brake fluid level.

[@musicfashionstyle4251]

I already changed all new wheel speed sensors. But still not working. Anything else for help.

[@UltimatePostman]

I'll repost my reply to someone else here. You will probably need to get your codes scanned.: Thank you for stopping by and watching Musicfashionstyle4251! I'm glad that I was able to help you on doing some auto repair - most small repairs aren’t as tough as they make them out to be. Just remember that the advice that I give helped resolved my situation, and I’ll do the best I can to present what is helpful - however, you may still need to head to a mechanic for assistance, or just to get codes read if you can do the work yourself. Since you are still having the VSA warning light on your dash board, remember that it is your traction control system… but it works hand-in-hand with your brake system (including your ABS). If you watched my second part, then you would know I had to replace my brake light sensor to fully resolve all errors and turn the light off. To resolve your VSA light, I would recommend using the following procedure. First, if your car is exactly like mine, check the brake lights - all 3 of them, the center one, and the 2 tail lights. Make sure that they turn on when you press the brake petal. Have a friend stand behind the car and off to the side to see what happens when you press your brake petal. If They don’t turn on, then check out my second video in this series, could be your brake light sensor - it’s a little switch that when you press on your brake petal, the switch opens and turns on your brake lights (and when you release your brake petal, the button is pressed and turns off your brake lights. You could test this yourself at night - back up to a wall, put your car in park, release the brake, and turn the lights off (just to make sure you’re not seeing the cars regular running lights). Using your rear and side view mirrors see if the wall lights up red when you press the brake petal. If they do, then good. If not, then check fuse #10 under your hood, it’s 20A. You can also check out my second video if your brakes don’t light up, you may need to check and/or replace the brake light switch mentioned earlier, connected to your brake petal. If your brake lights work fine, no need to do so. Just remember - your regular running lights are not your brake lights. When you turn your lights on, the taillights light up. When you press your brake petal, your red lights will get brighter in the back (or turn on fully bright if they are off). While we are at it, under your hood you can also check the #2.2 and 2.3 fuses (they’re 1 complete module you’ll have to unscrew and carefully remove and then carefully reinstall and screw back in. the #2.2 is 40A and the #2.3 is 30A. Past that, the last fuse to check is under your glovebox on the passenger side of the car. When you open the door of the car, just to the right of where your right foot would rest on the floor, there is a small panel you can remove from the wall. Check fuse #6, it’s a 7.5A. Those should be all the fuses you’ll need to check and verify. The next step, which I missed in the video, is to check your brake fluid level - the reservoir for the 2007-2012 Accord is found under the hood on the driver’s side, close to the fuse box, just below the windshield. Just make sure it’s between minimum and maximum - you may need to get some brake fluid, which could be found at any auto parts store, or even Walmart. My fluid was low, I topped it off to just below the line indicating “MAX,” but it did not resolve my issue. The next step I would recommend is to reset the computers yourself. Please keep in mind that the method I’m sharing will also wipe out your time (and date) and any radio settings (including your preselected ratio channels). If you wish to not do so, AND/OR your radio has a code that you don’t know, then I would skip this step and have someone with a OBD2 scanner clear your codes. If you’re willing to reset your time and radio settings, all you’ll do is disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery and leave it off for at least 15 minutes. While you’re at it, check for any corrosion on your battery terminals and clean if needed. After 15 minutes pass, reconnect your cable securely and give your car a test drive. You should know within a few miles if the VSA light returns. If it does, proceed to the next step. Final step - you’ll need an OBD2 port reader - a scan tool that will read different codes the cars computer is saying “This is what’s going on.” You’ll need to get the actual code or codes to see what is really happening. It's how I knew that I needed to switch my Wheel Speed Sensors, but also, they gave me another error of 68-21 “Brake Petal Position Stuck Off,” which as mentioned before was my brake light switch was bad (please see the second video if you need some steps with it - it’s what cleared my code after the wheel speed sensors). Otherwise, you could have a number of errors - even the possibility that the actual VSA unit or ABS unit are bad - and even one of those could run a few hundred for the part. Getting any error codes will be really helpful to research what needs to be done. Take a photo of each code so you can research them, and then have the tech clear the codes, and drive around for a little to see if the errors come back. Hopes this helps you in the right direction resolving your VSA warning.

[@laketabrown6656]

Ive changed all 4 wheel sensors and the fuse under the steering wheel. Lights are still on. What should I do next??!

[@UltimatePostman]

Thank you for stopping by and watching Laketa! I'm glad that I was able to help you on doing some auto repair - most small repairs aren’t as tough as they make them out to be. Just remember that the advice that I give helped resolved my situation, and I’ll do the best I can to present what is helpful - however, you may still need to head to a mechanic for assistance, or just to get codes read if you can do the work yourself. Since you are still having the VSA warning light on your dash board, remember that it is your traction control system… but it works hand-in-hand with your brake system (including your ABS). If you watched my second part, then you would know I had to replace my brake light sensor to fully resolve all errors and turn the light off. To resolve your VSA light, I would recommend using the following procedure. First, if your car is exactly like mine, check the brake lights - all 3 of them, the center one, and the 2 tail lights. Make sure that they turn on when you press the brake petal. Have a friend stand behind the car and off to the side to see what happens when you press your brake petal. If They don’t turn on, then check out my second video in this series, could be your brake light sensor - it’s a little switch that when you press on your brake petal, the switch opens and turns on your brake lights (and when you release your brake petal, the button is pressed and turns off your brake lights. You could test this yourself at night - back up to a wall, put your car in park, release the brake, and turn the lights off (just to make sure you’re not seeing the cars regular running lights). Using your rear and side view mirrors see if the wall lights up red when you press the brake petal. If they do, then good. If not, then check fuse #10 under your hood, it’s 20A. You can also check out my second video if your brakes don’t light up, you may need to check and/or replace the brake light switch mentioned earlier, connected to your brake petal. If your brake lights work fine, no need to do so. Just remember - your regular running lights are not your brake lights. When you turn your lights on, the taillights light up. When you press your brake petal, your red lights will get brighter in the back (or turn on fully bright if they are off). While we are at it, under your hood you can also check the #2.2 and 2.3 fuses (they’re 1 complete module you’ll have to unscrew and carefully remove and then carefully reinstall and screw back in. the #2.2 is 40A and the #2.3 is 30A. Past that, the last fuse to check is under your glovebox on the passenger side of the car. When you open the door of the car, just to the right of where your right foot would rest on the floor, there is a small panel you can remove from the wall. Check fuse #6, it’s a 7.5A. Those should be all the fuses you’ll need to check and verify. The next step, which I missed in the video, is to check your brake fluid level - the reservoir for the 2007-2012 Accord is found under the hood on the driver’s side, close to the fuse box, just below the windshield. Just make sure it’s between minimum and maximum - you may need to get some brake fluid, which could be found at any auto parts store, or even Walmart. My fluid was low, I topped it off to just below the line indicating “MAX,” but it did not resolve my issue. The next step I would recommend is to reset the computers yourself. Please keep in mind that the method I’m sharing will also wipe out your time (and date) and any radio settings (including your preselected ratio channels). If you wish to not do so, AND/OR your radio has a code that you don’t know, then I would skip this step and have someone with a OBD2 scanner clear your codes. If you’re willing to reset your time and radio settings, all you’ll do is disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery and leave it off for at least 15 minutes. While you’re at it, check for any corrosion on your battery terminals and clean if needed. After 15 minutes pass, reconnect your cable securely and give your car a test drive. You should know within a few miles if the VSA light returns. If it does, proceed to the next step. Final step - you’ll need an OBD2 port reader - a scan tool that will read different codes the cars computer is saying “This is what’s going on.” You’ll need to get the actual code or codes to see what is really happening. It's how I knew that I needed to switch my Wheel Speed Sensors, but also, they gave me another error of 68-21 “Brake Petal Position Stuck Off,” which as mentioned before was my brake light switch was bad (please see the second video if you need some steps with it - it’s what cleared my code after the wheel speed sensors). Otherwise, you could have a number of errors - even the possibility that the actual VSA unit or ABS unit are bad - and even one of those could run a few hundred for the part. Getting any error codes will be really helpful to research what needs to be done. Take a photo of each code so you can research them, and then have the tech clear the codes, and drive around for a little to see if the errors come back. Hopes this helps you in the right direction resolving your VSA warning.

[@santodramirez2633]

Did you check the caliper line sometime those lines get hit by rocks or metals on the road

[@UltimatePostman]

​@santodramirez2633 they're usually pretty tough, and protected. If your brakes start feeling soft, I'd check the brake fluid - which is a clue for the caliper being leaky... aside from seeing the leak.