Solar Eclipse Photography Tutorial & Tips

Learn to get awesome photos of the sun and the upcoming solar eclipse on April 8, 2024. This photography tutorial teaches you to take pictures of the solar eclipse using an ND filter, tripod, camera, and telephoto lens.
Amazon LINKS:
Telephoto mirror lens: SDP.io/mirror
Our checklist: sdp.io/solar
Solar Film: help.tc/solarfilm
Screw-on Filters: help.tc/solarfront
Glass Solar Filter: help.tc/solarglass
Sunglasses: help.tc/solarshade
Tripods: help.tc/m475b
If you want to shoot it with a smartphone, visit sdp.io/iphoneeclipse
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#1 book with 14+ HOURS of video at Amazon: help.tc/s
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0:00 Introduction
0:13 Solar Filters
0:56 Tripod
1:28 Camera & Lens
2:16 Photograph the Eclipse
2:37 Camera Settings
2:44 Focus Settings
3:05 Exposure Settings
3:22 Shutter Mode
4:02 Take more pictures
4:32 Solar Eclipse Photography Checklist
4:39 Summary

[@alansach8437]

This will be one of the most photographed spectacles in history. Worse than standing in line at sunrise at Ox Bow Bend in September! I was in the path of totality in 2017. Was mowing my lawn when it happened. Got dark and the birds stopped chirping and tucked their heads in. I just kept mowing!

[@JHP_2023]

Thanks Tony - yet again you cut through the fluff to deliver an informative and concise how-to.

[@matthewjbauer1990]

My Dad took his Fuji X-T10 to the 2017 Eclipse and used the Tokina 500mm screw mount reflex lens and he had a solar filter cover and 1.4x screw mount teleconverter + the screw mount to Fuji X adapter. Not the best combo but it worked. Me, on Monday, I plan on using my unbranded 420-800mm f8-f16 manual focus/manual zoom (Opteka sells it branded for double the unbranded price) telescope style lens with a slide on solar filter cover/cap on my X-T30. Dad plans to take his new X-T30II again with the Tokina reflex lens/adapter/teleconverter/solar filter cover. Dad and I don't plan on using the X-T10 for anything serious as we don't have a lens, solar cover, or 3rd tripod for it.

[@TheASM196]

I recommend to use a camera with a pivoting viewscreen.Contrary to what Tony says, put the camera on a tripod below shoulders so that you will not be tempted to look up into the sun for the adjustments. Look down at the screen and if necessary use a blanket to cover your head (to shade the screen in full sunlight). Tape the sunscreen to your lens securely.

[@1pinestreet]

It occurred to me that I'd rather have photos of my back yard or places familiar to me during the eclipse, to show how the light changed, than take pics of the eclipse itself. I'll see loads of photos of the eclipse; none of what my world looked like when it was happening.

[@ElenGlazova]

That’s such a great idea!

[@bigvalexander8917]

1000%. Was thinking the same thing. I thought about flying my drone over something familiar .. maybe set up my phone to do a time lapse.. and use the DSLR for your idea

[@EdSmed20]

thanks for this comment. you gave me a new perspective

[@1pinestreet]

I've decided to do a time lapse on my 360 camera in my cul-de-sac. I'll gift the video (if it's any good) to my neighbors.

[@jadem89]

@@1pinestreetcan you recommend settings on the 360x I just got it and haven’t had a chance to figure out the best settings :) was thinking the same thing about Timelapse :)

[@alvinblackwell268]

Tony you best post in a minute very informative 👏🏼 👍🏽 👌🏻

[@Tommy.voodoo]

I photographed the last one with my cheap canon powershot and took an awesome photo! Such a cool experience

[@jebwa]

Did you use a filter or just the raw lens?

[@Tommy.voodoo]

@@jebwa I used a solar filter sheet! It would ruin the camera/lens without it

[@thepincayreport9452]

Thank you for this. I'll be making my way to Austin this weekend to shoot the eclipse.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Good luck! F the clouds!

[@gianocurrie1]

Thanks for info! Was great! Wish I saw this one month earlier.

[@AstroLaVista]

Great explanation, Tony, really nice video. Its so hard photographing objects in space using a stationary tripod due to the Earth's rotation. If you intend to do more of any type of astrophotography it's worth investing in a star tracker such as the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer which can keep the Sun, Stars, Moon and deep sky objects centred in the frame and remove motion blur on longer exposures also.

[@AbercrombieArt]

Great video Tony! Succinct and informative, this video was just what the doctor ordered for me. Thanks a bunch😊 !

[@carlmcneill1139]

You don't want to use a 2x teleconverter at 600mm for one thing a 2x teleconverter softens the focus and doubles the aperture. Second, the chromesphere coming around the moon from the sun will be twice the size of the moon during totality. You will miss is if your zoomed in too much. That's the whole reason for taking your filter off so you can capture that part of the eclipse. That's like having your client go get a new haircut and then chopping the top of their head off in the frame. 600mm is the max focal length. Maybe even 500mm. Also, do a 9 shot bracket during totality if you want to capture all of it. Lightroom may can do an HDR but i usually don't have a lot of luck in Lightroom with that. There's KZbin videos on how to put the 9 frames together and to use each of the exposures. I would suggest shooting around 1/1000 ss, ISO 200 or 400, and f/ for the partial phase. Take the filter off when the diamond ring appears. The diamond ring and Baily's beads only last about maybe 15 seconds so hit that shutter release repeatedly or just before the diamond ring change to high burst mode and hold the shutter release down when the diamond ring appears. Change your settings for totality. Go to f/11, ISO 400, and start with 1/30 ss for your 9 shot bracket. The fastest shutter speed should be around 1/500 and the slowest and around 1/2. Even at 600mm you shouldn't see motion blur at 1/2 of a second. Change your settings back to the original and watch the eclipse and things around. Change the settings back to the original and then shoot the Baily's beads and the diamond ring on the other side. Put the filter back on and start shooting the partial phase again. Download the solar eclipse timer app and follow the instructions. It's only $2 for this eclipse and is well worth it. It uses your phone's GPS to know exactly what time to tell you when things are about to happen. You will hear verbal cues when to do things. I would suggest using an old phone or iPad and use it just for the timer. You don't have to pay twice if it's for the same app.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I wasn't zoomed in too much to clip anything.

[@JS-wz3km]

I also got focusing cloths, so i can see the screens on the cameras better, remote shutter release/intervalometers, and a flip-up filter holder to make the transition during the eclipse easier. I'm going to use my phone to look back at us during the eclipse while we look up.

[@nicksavage4763]

GREAT TONY 🎉 GOOD VID

[@elram2649]

Woo-hoo! Just in time! 🌟 🌠

[@okaro6595]

It may be also a good idea to think if there is something in the environment to photograph or take video if one is at the path of totality (outside it one will not notice differences in the environment)

[@Peterogen]

Thank you ❤❤❤

[@andrewbristoe1833]

Got one in cairns australia framed between clouds so freaky birds go nuts if another think try landscape incorporated Astro and landscape really bangs

[@seaeagles6025]

Hi Tony and Chelsea, some really great tips especially the safety part, to wear glasses to protect your eyes. Great presentation 😊

[@MikeC2K10]

Very good advice. Taking lots of bracketed photos is key, and so is rehearsing all the steps you will take before eclipse day. Another way to align your camera and lens with the sun is to look at the shadow it casts on the ground. Minimize the size of the shadow and you will be pointed at the sun. I would also like to remind everyone: don't forget to look at it with your eyes! I photographed my first eclipse in 2017 but this year I will just be shooting video of the surroundings from a rooftop club in Dallas, TX so I can mostly enjoy the eclipse experience for itself.

[@terred999]

Looks like texas is forecasted to be completely clouded over.

[@Wha2les]

Been hoping for a video! Thanks! Now lets hope weather cooperates.

[@NickNoblePhotography]

Thanks. Bet I could spend between now and eclipse watching videos!

[@william72113]

Thanks Tony, how did you pair the canon 500 with the 4/3 Olympus - an adapter by Metabones … etc?

[@BillyRay724]

If I am in a spot that is only getting around 90% coverage, I assume I should never take the the filter off at any point?

[@scottweiner396]

Where I am totality is going to be like 45 sec. If use a screw on filter, how practical is it for me to get that off and back on again on the other side? I’m on a z8 with a 180-600 on a pretty tall tripod, if that matters.

[@porter4856]

If youre bored enough, there is an 80s movie called ladyhawke that has an eclipse as a central plot feature.

[@amyjudy33]

"Bored"-how very dare you?? X'D Ladyhawke is a timeless gem!! A masterpiece of cinema! A time capsule of an era!! (Jk, Jk! The movie holds special nostalgia for me, but it's SO cheesy and, like, 55 minutes longer than necessary. Haha, I was just excited to see someone reference it!)

[@scottschuette74]

Hi Tony, I got a question about using my Canon EOS Rebel T8i. I took photos of the eclipse on Monday, they turned out great, but I wasn't able to use my remote intervalometer while using the exposure bracketing feature. I resorted to manual shutter release with 2 second delay. It worked, but would have been better if I could have left the camera alone to fully enjoy the moment. Is there a way to make that work. Thanks.

[@andrewbristoe1833]

Recently got into telescoping ...whole new imaging world the thing that gets you is hoe much the planets move and location altitude changes over short periods of time .Also especially eclipses not to long lensing esp with devils comit at the same time .For Americans or visitors would be so torn in a most dependable weather location or Niagara Falls although the crowds spectacular if could somehow incorporate in the shots .

[@RaelliaSama]

I'm glad I found your video. All these sources I found said you want an ND filter for full solar eclipse photography, which I want to capture every minute of direct photography from beginning to end without ruining my camera. What brand of solar film would you recommend for my Canon Rebel T7? I've got a telephoto lens that can go between 400mm and 800mm. Yes, I'm a newb lol, but this is such a rare event and I want my own photos and video to memorialize it. I'm also going to have another camera capture the shifting scenery so it won't be aimed at the sun at all. That will probably be just video for that and I can gather stills from the recording. Anyway, I digress, just need the finer details and suggestions of what solar film to use so I don't mess up my primary camera being such a newblet.

[@Aethertopia369]

Can you use window cover solar film, like one gets from Walmart or Home Depot?

[@JPKloess]

Darn, looks like I missed my chance to get solar film before Monday. I should have thought about this sooner.

[@fishchick72]

This is so confusion. I click on the links you provide but do not see the products you mentioned.

[@user-yt7ml1hx7p]

Hi will you be filming this 2024 solar eclipse i would love to watch it or are you charging livr watchers... Bleh😢

[@JeremyTaylorNZ]

3:34 see the wind flapping that solar film? that’s why you don’t just want to tape a square of film over the lens - get or make a proper filter folder that securely holds the filter to the lens

[@jacobwiener4391]

What are all the settings to use for a mirrorless camera? (Wide open aperture, slow/fast shutter speed?)

[@TonyAndChelsea]

The video discusses this but just use auto exposure and check your histogram.

[@harrybalsak916]

I use my Celestron Nexstar 8SE. It is a 2032mm f/10 and works perfectly with my D850 with a solar filter. Doing a Solar alignment makes it easy to track the sun automatically. I will use an intervalometer tomorrow to get a good time lapse. I don't like using the LCD so I tether my camera to my laptop and use my CWPI software

[@williamgabriel6041]

A tall tripod has the possibility of getting your kit caught in the wind, so there’s trade offs. If it’s windy, you’re better off with a low tripod and getting your body down.

[@-MrEVIL-]

took a similar photo with my phone with an nd400 filter

[@richardb.7054]

I managed a couple of good shots. More grain than I wanted though. I do all the things it's recommended to do and still struggle to keep grain out of my low light photos😮

[@MrGonzo24]

Link for the film please

[@Jimmy_Cavallo]

💥Hey Tony. I am shooting with a Nikon D750 and a 16 stop. Looking through the viewfinder is good because it’s as dark as the ND filter but when I go to live view , it’s pitch black and I can’t see a thing. Am I missing something with settings on my camera to see live view.??

[@TonyAndChelsea]

You're underexposed. Live view previews your exposure. Check your histogram and adjust your shutter speed longer.

[@tjlastname5192]

I feel like this would be helpful if I knew how to do everything he talked about doing in the first place. I don’t know enough about photography nor the camera to make these adjustments.

[@CyberGizmo]

If your camera has a view finder I always tell people to cover it, if you are using a telescope, remove the finder scope, remember they act as magnifying glasses and light coming from them will be focused and it will burn.

[@MagicianDerrickRose]

So will I be better off putting a 200 mm lens on my APSC SonyA6600 for the eclipse instead of my Full Frame A7iii?

[@plutonium5156]

Yes

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Yeah

[@codycampbell1147]

Okay so maybe someone here can help me but I used my smartphone and to a direct picture of the sun (don't worry i only looked at my phone) anyways in my picture the you can not see the moon partially covering the sun because it's too bright for my sensor but just a little bit away there is some sort of perfect image of the sun being partially covered kind of what a pinhole camera looked like when I was using that to cast a shadow on the ground

[@codycampbell1147]

I will try to post a picture to my KZbin community so people can see

[@itsacookie1]

Ill be able to afford the lens required to photograph the solar eclipse in 20 years.

[@lorilopez6806]

If you dont have solar sunglasses is it safe to look at only the back screen of a mirrorless camera?

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Yeah looking at a screen is fine, just be careful you don't overheat your camera.

[@lorilopez6806]

@@TonyAndChelsea Thank you, just in case i dont get glasses in time. May do Gopro timelapse also

[@amyjudy33]

(I'm sure you're intelligent and capable, my comment is merely born out of an over abundance of caution!) Be so, so careful watching the eclipse without glasses. Because the light will *appear* dimmer during the eclipse and doesn’t produce the same sort of uncomfortable sensations as looking at the sun under normal circumstances, there's a false sense of security. It feels safer to look at it directly it. Irreversible damage to the retinas can easily still occur. I'm super excited to enjoy this experience! I hope we all have a good time. ^ u ^

[@lorilopez6806]

​@amyjudy33 Thank you. I meant only looking at back of screen, never was going to look directly at it. Tho i was able to order sunglasses on Amazon that were delivered today so now i can look. I appreciate your concern, that is very kind if you 😊

[@erikabernetic9311]

I have decided to attend the Solar Eclipse this Monday in Canada. I didn't realize I needed solar film for my D750 and I can't get any delivered in time. What else can I do to take pictures safely?

[@EdSmed20]

just take the pic but dont stare at it too long, you'll be fine if you're quick.

[@kore996]

So I can’t stack at 10 stop ND filter with a 2-6 stop VND at 6 stops? When you say that you can’t take pictures or video of the eclipse does that mean for prolonged periods of time or would it be safe to take one or two photos and then turn the camera away from the sun?

[@matthewjbauer1990]

Per B&H, you CAN stack ND filters to get at least ND 16. You'll likely want greater than ND 16 though. But, this comes at the sacrifice of image quality and darkening for every filter added. The fewer filters stacked, the better image quality your case. There should be no issues using an ND filter stacked except that if you have an optical viewfinder, you won't want to use it. ND filters provide no protection to your eyes in this situation.

[@kore996]

@@matthewjbauer1990 it’s on a mirrorless camera and I’m not too worried about perfect images and more so just for memory for my family. Thanks for your input.

[@carlmcneill1139]

Because ND filters do not block uv and other rays that can damage your sensor and your eyes. ND filters only darken the light by restricting it. Technically stacking filters will give you a correct exposure but not protect your sensor or your eyes.

[@kore996]

@@carlmcneill1139 in my head I’m just having a hard time understanding how people can take photos of the sun in the background of photos and do starbursts all the time… how is this different? I know sunrise and sunset would be slightly different because there’s more atmosphere before it hits the camera but people just leave the camera aimed at the sun.

[@carlmcneill1139]

@kore996 the lens acts like a magnifying glass. Wide angle lenses are as strong but over time they can damage your sensor if you lens the lens open. Even with a wide angle lens. It's worse for mirrorless cameras. A DSLR has the mirror in front of the sensor so most of that light goes into the viewfinder until time to take a photo. Mirrorless cameras have nothing keeping the light from hitting the sensor when you're not taking photos. But if you're using a long fish length the sun's heat will be greatly increased. A 500mm or 600mm lens will fry the sensor and may even burn a hole in it if you don't have protection over it. I've never seen any studies on what focal lengths are safe to use for sunrises and sunsets and which can be dangerous to the sensor. If I'm using a long focal length I'm probably not looking at the sun unless I'm specifically taking photos of the sun. In which case I will use a filter. My 180-600mm is mainly for birds and wildlife and occasionally the moon. But I will streptococcus to use it for the eclipse of the weather is good where I'm going.

[@hudsonps4669]

Silly quick question, but for how many seconds would one have to expose in order to get the sun during the total eclipse? I’m assuming the corona is bright enough that you perhaps don’t need long exposure at all?

[@ChristianWildeD]

I did a quick search on Flickr and the eclipse photos there varied in exposure settings, but none of them were longer than 1/40s. Worst case is you have to bump up the ISO a little bit.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

There's no one answer which is why you have to be ready to check the histogram. But autoexposure gets you pretty close. The challenge is, different lenses have different f/stops and t/stops.

[@BrysonWooden]

Great tips. 2017 the clouds blocked my view but this time around I've got a 200-600mm with 2x teleconverter. I'll probably use an intervalometer to trigger because I don't want my a7IV to overheat lol.

[@carlmcneill1139]

Don't use the teleconverter. It may work fine during the partial phase but the chromesphere that radiates around the moon during totality will be much larger. It may be twice the size of the moon. At 1200mm you won't get it all in the frame. 600mm is max for what you need. Possible 500mm. You can always crop in on a picture but you can't add back to what you didn't capture.

[@-MrEVIL-]

@@carlmcneill1139 zoom out to 200 theen -,-

[@carlmcneill1139]

@-MrEVIL- 500mm to 600mm is fine.

[@-MrEVIL-]

@@carlmcneill1139 idk , never shot eclipses Normal sun takes 2400mm to fill up the frame

[@carlmcneill1139]

@-MrEVIL- filling up the frame is fine for the partial phase and even Baily's beads but not during totality. The Corona will fill up the rest of the frame at 600mm. I'm getting my info from experienced photographers that have shot a lot of eclipses. If you're not in the path of totality then you can stay zoomed in tight like that.

[@Skidoo22]

I'm pretty sure I remember watching this same video for the 2017 eclipse (no clouds 😉)

[@Topgunphoto]

couldn't you use a shutter release like I do for sunrises, that was my plan.

[@ChristyTurnerAuroraMedia]

Your links dont work.

[@luckymandran]

Instead of a tall tripod and looking up into the sun I'll be sitting in a chair looking down at me Canon floppy screen. Much easier and safer for my eyes.

[@flitetym]

I’m having trouble understanding why a 20-stop ND filter is not a reasonable option - especially for a mirrorless camera - when no one is suggesting looking directly at the sun. “Acquire, bracket 7 or 9 exposures, and fire away.” Then put your lens cap on, and wait for another opportunity. “What am I missing?”

[@TonyAndChelsea]

The theory behind it is that standard ND filters don't block UV and IR light, but those can still damage your sensor. Maybe it's not actually a problem with your particular lens and camera settings. I don't have a good way to test it without potentially destroying a bunch of cameras. If you try it, let me know how it goes.

[@flitetym]

@@TonyAndChelsea​​⁠Thank you very much for your response. I just used Chat GPT to resolve the lingering question I had about the effect of atmospheric diffusion on I/R and U/V: “In summary, both IR and UV radiation are affected by the atmosphere’s composition and density. While some IR and UV do penetrate the atmosphere, it significantly reduces their intensity, especially when the sun is low on the horizon.” While I’m by no means a “risk taker”, I tend to believe that if the sun is 45° or less on the horizon, that the ill-effects of IR and UV should be minimal due to atmospheric absorption. Thanks for “tolerating” my question. Love you guys! 🤗

[@1495978707]

Common misconception with the magnifying light thing. When optics magnify something, intensity *decreases* because the same light is spread out over a larger area. This is part of why telescopes need to be big, the other part is angular resolution. Basically, the difference in diameter of the primary and secondary can offset the decrease in intensity caused by magnification. Plus, since it's magnified, it's filling up more of your field of view. It really is playing with fire though, you have to take safety seriously and practice like he recommends

[@normk58]

A good ND filter offering at least 16 stops or a combination of ND filter that amount to 16 stops or more are just fine. I've tested them in advance of the eclipse. You are the only person I have seen on KZbin who warns against using ND filters.

[@Skymanfoob]

Wow, you look so young. You been working out? LOL

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Doin that time traveller workout!

[@sullivandamn]

Most of Texas will be cloudy 😔

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I think it's still too early to be forecasting clouds, but if it is cloudy, I'm gonna be real pissed.

[@MikeC2K10]

@@TonyAndChelsea In 2017 the clouds disappeared as the sun dimmed and convection collapsed. Not sure if conditions will be the same to allow that to happen, but let's keep our fingers crossed.

[@sullivandamn]

@@TonyAndChelsea Well, I hope its not cloudy where you are, its cloudy where I am :( (Austin)

[@sullivandamn]

@@TonyAndChelsea It was not cloudy where I was! I got some great images with my 200-600 and A7RV! I hope the clouds were in your favor!

[@melissasenter]

I wish all this had been said as much as they push about the glasses and all

[@zulfika_]

First step: buy expensive tele lens

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I suggest $300 mirror lenses: SDP.io/mirror

[@Tommy.voodoo]

The camera I use for moon and eclipse photos can be purchased for $150 on KEH! My moon photos are very detailed and everyone thought I was using an expensive lens when I photographed the last eclipse

[@ds_cameraworx]

​@@Tommy.voodoowhich lens are you using?

[@Tommy.voodoo]

@@ds_cameraworx no interchangeable lens, it’s canon sx40 hs. I’ve had it for probably 12 years or so and only keep it around for events like this!

[@Scorpion0308]

heyyy this is recycled from 2017 ;)

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Guilty 😉