Toolholder Adapter Block and Tool Height Extender

If your tailstock is worn to the point of being un-usable, this video will show you a QC tool post adapter for drill chucks and other tooling. I'll also show you a way to set your tool holder to center if you run out of thumb nut range. Take a look.

[@xrayrep]

Another excellent video, Joe! THANK YOU! I'm a 71 year old home machinist with a manual mill and lathe who doesn't do this stuff for money or for anyone else. I do it only for myself, and I do it because I love it! And YOU, Joe, have made my passion even more enjoyable. (big smile)

[@200xcBruce]

Joe your a master of the machinists and a dying art. I hope many are learning and carrying on your skills.

[@Gary.7920]

Joe, Wish I lived near Austin so I could follow you around sweeping up after you just so I could pick up some of your knowledge. Love how you "think outside the box" Gary 75-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in Northwest Arkansas

[@cogentdynamics]

Joe, these are your best videos! Thank you for your efforts and the tips! Love it.

[@joepie221]

Glad you like them!

[@paultrgnp]

Another great video Joe. Greatly appreciated, particularly because your vids encourage us "mere mortals" to try stuff a bit out of the norm. Keep up your great education program. Cheers from Oz.

[@gordonmoore1838]

Tool Height Extender - so obvious when presented by you Joe. This will make upside down threading tool use on my mini lathe now possible. Thanks for sharing yet another idea and method.

[@TheoTHERON_SA]

"Try it, I'm sure you'll like it..."😂 Yup!! Definitely am going to try it. Thanks!

[@ClownWhisper]

This ingenious Joe thank you very much for that. I got to tell you I'm pretty sick I was at risk of fading away and easy chair when I started watching your videos You and Mister Pete I decided to get me some machines and start working with metal. I was always very good with wood and metal we back in high school and different times throughout my life with welding and excetera excetera just all around building things. So I got it on Logan and I fixed it up like new it was in the first few months I started making things for people and then I found a few things that are not readily available that people still need they started selling on eBay after figuring out how to make them on my way very precisely. The first old Logan paid itself off in probably 6 months. Since then I've got a hardinge and absolutely tons of tooling I got a mill with tons more tooling. I have paid everything off and then some just buy doing small jobs for people and making things to sell. It's absolutely amazing how he hobby can pull you out of the pits of hell into a productive life. Even if it's only productive on a hobby level arm chair watching TV in dying slowly. Your videos help me do things correctly and I'm very grateful for that. The next Saga of my life is to get a larger lathe I'm looking for a much bigger Monarch I believe to fix up like new. I actually have things like this to look forward to now thank you so much Jeff

[@johngalt9262]

Always something cool from Joe P. What is even cooler, is that most of this stuff is so simple. Joe definitely could be synonymous to a paradigm shift in machining.

[@jamesciampi6392]

I love your old school ingenuity,love the way your brain works.you are a treasure house of tips and tricks I wouldn't miss one of your videos

[@joepie221]

You da man. thanks for staying with me.

[@jefferdman5921]

Thanks Joe. I met you at the bash and began watching your videos. I want to thank you for the very instructional videos. I am really enjoying going through your older videos. Good content.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much. I was glad to have attended the bash. I met a lot of supporters and really good people.

[@billmcleangunsmith]

I made one of these this week. Big help. I added a nut on the screw to help lock it in place. Tool height extender.

[@jimmilne19]

Super idea. I have had the problem that I had to bore down into the tool holder top so the adjustment screw could go lower than otherwise allowed by the off the shelf tool holder. What we need is a negative of your cool tool!! hehe Love your videos.

[@tomthumb3085]

As usual; more great problem work-arounds. Really enjoyed this video, thanks.

[@ellieprice3396]

Great tips Joe. I've been a machinist all my working life but never seen or used these common sense ideas. Here's one secret to a full and interesting life. Make tools you need and can't find and never ever stop learning the new stuff.

[@joepie221]

My toolbox is full of home made tools. I think they are invaluable and inevitable.

[@CalvinEdmonson]

I really miss doing manual work. If I was I would surely make myself, and have at the ready, all of your gizmos, gadgets, and do-dads. Even though I do set ups, lathe production work is not very satisfying. Your ideas are always great. Thanks Joe.

[@mxcollin95]

Genius! And that’s why I LOVE this channel. Thanks man!

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

Excellent idea Joe ! A quick way of setting up the drill holder is to chuck up a piece of drill rod of the same diameter as the hole in the drill holder and jiggle the toolpost around and adjust the cross slide so the holder will slide over the drill rod in the chuck . Saves having to tram the holder parallel to the bed each time . You could also make a device that plugs into the morse taper in the spindle to do the same thing which is useful if you run a four jaw chuck - you don't have to fiddle around clocking the drill rod so it runs true .

[@zumbazumba1]

Except if you do that you have to remove a part you are working on every time.With tailstock you dont have to go trough all that mess.

[@stanwooddave9758]

Just another walk in the park of puzzles, solved by Joe Pie. Thanks so much for sharing.

[@peterpocock9062]

Well I reckon I've seen the second idea in a bunch of bits and pieces somewhere, now that I know what the darn thing was I'll make one. Talk about a "duh" moment with the tool holder! I have a complete Dickson tool post with heaps of holders. Guess what is amongst them. Yep, a 2 mt holder. It did not dawn on me to "clock" it in. Sometimes I wonder how I ever remember to get out of bed!!!! Again, well done Joe. If I ever get to Texas, you're on my bucket list. Pete Albany West Oz.

[@beaubrowning7307]

So simple, so brilliant. Joe is the machinist you climb the Himalayas to ask one question.

[@Fr1day-RT]

And then you'd spend the climb back down with "why didn't I think of that" ringing in your head.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Guys.

[@EmmaRitson]

lol. as usual, im like.. do i want to watch a Joe Pie video about professional machining? and afterward, i, hanging for the next one! what great ideas. thanks

[@joepie221]

Thanks for checking in. I look forward to meeting you at the bash.

[@brucewilliams6292]

Great job! I love the idea of improving my machine with my machine. Your so appreciated by the community! Thanks for presenting your experiences!

[@johnfry9010]

You are always thinking outside of the box , Thanks Joe !

[@markwentland3147]

you have the coolest tricks !! little things that make a big difference for sure thx Joe !!

[@CJ-ty8sv]

The Drill holder you made reminds me of something similar I saw at an engine machine several years ago. It was the same basic idea but what the guy did was machined the entire holder from a solid chunk of material including the dovetail slot and had a top cap that bolted down on it so that there was no height adjustment to accidentally bump or change when it was dropped down on the post. My assumption is that he drilled and reamed the hole in the holder using the same method of chucking drill(s) and reamer in the chuck and moved the carriage into it. I asked why he made it rather than using the tail stock and his exact reply was the same think you pointed out, "because I can power feed and thus have both hands free to be doing something else."

[@robmckennie4203]

I sometimes put a drill right into the standard v-groove toolholder, even though there's nothing wrong with my tailstock. The carriage feed handle gives way better feel than the tailstock feed handle, and the power feed can be very convenient

[@makerspace533]

Good note on the drill holder for the Aloris type tool post. You can purchase tool blocks with morse tapers, and even better, 5C collets. There not too expensive if you don't mind import. I use the 5C collet tool holder for holding tiny boring bars.

[@matrixgunsmithing8060]

Thank You Joe!! Someone beat me to asking you to show us the added part on your inverted tools. Fantastic!!!!!

[@joepie221]

Thanks. i did get your offline message as well. I'll get back to ya shortly.

[@stxrynn]

Elegant. My old clapped out LeBlond just got a new tool. Using that drill adap with a dovetail stop is a no brainer. Thanks boss, good stuff.

[@mrblack61]

Cheers Joe, nice simple way to extend the range of a tool holder. For the guys with a dropped tailstock, you can place a shim between the TS base and body for a quick fix, thatll help get back on centre vertically. For MT taper shank drills you can use a capstan socket for the tool holder you make for the QCTP.

[@jcameron2554]

What a great tip. My ML4 lathe is notorious for dodgy setup and not keeping it's position as there is no fixed location dovetail to adjust against. That tool holder does the job perfectly. Also the tool holder raiser would be handy for a rear mounted parting off tool. As the height would need to be raised same as the rear mounted cutting tool.

[@ChrisB257]

Great - more excellent tricks - to join to your long list of super suggestions. Thanks Joe.

[@markfulmer8501]

Hi Joe- the tool height extender is brilliant thanks

[@ostie01]

Instead of using a 1in bushing, I use an ER40 holder with a 1in shank, you can now use many drill size.

[@beachcomberbob3496]

Another great problem solving video. Thanks Joe!

[@James-fs4rn]

height adjuster on the list now. thanks again for the tips.

[@johnsavoy4784]

Good video and idea's to over come problems, many folks have forgotten necessity was the mother of invention, One of my lathes is 68 year old yet I make cut true as a new one,with patience and ingenuity

[@joepie221]

Creativity also comes from not having any money in the bank. Its easy to solve a problem when time is not an issue and someone else is footing the bill.

[@johnsavoy4784]

You are right Joe, I guess I'm fortunate that I'm retired so it allows me time,as for money well not much here, I have always enjoyed making a tool that I needed, although in those days I had neither a lathe or mill, but I did have a torch,grinder ,and welder, most of those homemade tools are in my tool boxes, but one stays in plain view on a lathe,I was never a machinist by trade,although I went to 3 years of trade school it was not how I wanted to make a living, A dozer I owned needed track pins and bushings not wanting to give up 12,000$ for the job, I bought my first lathe, it is a China lathe but for less than 8000$ I built what was needed installed myself, so the story began, now days I build parts for antique tractors and machinery that is obsolete. My second lathe is a 9 inch South Bend 1950 year model it is such a pleasure running that old machine, It has an interesting history in that it is given credit to building the first graduated carriage stop, by the son of the original owner, keep up the videos I enjoy them and learn from them

[@jamsock55]

Very helpful, your channel is great. I am not a machinist but am a brake operator hoping to move to manual machines.

[@skiptracer8703]

Nice one again as usual Mr Joe, sorry I'll miss you at the Bash this year wanted to meet you. -jim

[@darrennelson6803]

The aluminum beyond z bracket is spot on so simple I like it!! I have a riser block I made the uses set screws on my tool post to align tram so I can get it within .0001 then crank it down without it moving on you works so well!! I have 18 inch long twist drill 5/16 diameter I use that is true start to finish.

[@chrisn3794]

Thanks so much for the tool height adjustment attachment. I love it! Gonna make one but cut some clearance so it doesn’t bottom out at the top of the holder. We have two different lathes with different center heights. Would like to be able to make the attachment interchangeable by being able to drop the tool holder lower than the top of the holder.

[@karlvella7627]

Great joe..... always with simple ideas that could makes your live easy.... thanks karl from Malta

[@tsmartin]

When using the carriage to power feed drills I've always had issues with the tool post spinning around the axis of the hold down screw. I finally made a backup bar that bolts to where the follower rest would. Keeps to tool post from turning under a heavy feed.

[@joepie221]

That is a concern for sure. The adapter block shifting is the other. Be sure to not over-ride your component stability.

[@bradlilly8603]

Love the tips. Thanks for posting

[@whatupg1]

Fantastic Joe! love your work. You have given me an idea. For your drill holder in the toolpost could I suggest an accurate 5c collet or ER 32/40 collet holder(different size drill bits can be used) then precision grind flats on four sides equal distance from the centre line essentially a square shank. Therefore it will always clamp down the same in toolholder no matter which way it is inserted also one of the flat sides facing away from tool holder can be used to indicate to the centre line of the spindle. How does that sound?

[@mccgakloi]

Thanks for the clip Joe. I was one of the people with a crap tailsock who couldnt drill straight. Precision grinding by a toolmaker along with using a good ER collet has got me on center within a thou or less. However I will still try this out of interest. Keep em coming! Gerard, South Australia. p.s. how much slop do you get with the straight shank?

[@larrymatsumoto7730]

Great tip, thanks Joe

[@PaulSteMarie]

FWIW, you can buy morse taper, 5C collet, and drill chuck blocks for the tool post as standard off-the-shelf items. Brand-name Aloris or Dorian are $$$, but Phase II, Shars, etc also make them.

[@nickmartin1688]

My MT2 block is magic for holding tiny boring bars; very solid and easy to set up.

[@tonyfrederick2715]

Joe, You're brilliant

[@roberthiggins1142]

That is Gold, i'm going to have to make a couple of them..

[@joepie221]

They work well and solve a simple problem.

Both tools are awesome.

[@davidfrancis8761]

To hold MT2 tools I made and toolholder adaptor similar to Joe's then acquired an MT2 to 1" plain shank adaptor off Ebay. Then went one step further and added a draw/eject bar assembly to the back of the adaptor which ensures that drills and collect holders don't spin or work loose, but can be easily ejected. It will accept plain, threaded and tang MT2 tapers.

[@MaturePatriot]

Another great video, Joe.

[@joepie221]

Thank you Sir.

[@DudleyToolwright]

As always, great video. I was wondering, do you have stability issues since your dovetail of the toolpost is engaging a smaller area on the tool holder? Hope to see you at the Summer Bash.

[@joepie221]

No issues at all. The offset is usually minimal compared to how much contact remains. If it were to be more than 50%, I could see possible problems.

[@turningpoint6643]

I guess I'm of the belt & suspenders school of thought. I think after boring & reaming that drill / reamer bushing holder I'd take an accurate measurement off the top of the block to the top of the compound or cross slide surface before removing the tool holder and stamp that number in the top of the bushing block. For myself and not taking the time to do something like that has almost always wasted more time sooner or later than having an easy datum reference point to go back to. Very clever add on raising block for those Aloris tool holders Joe. For non integral shank drill chucks I'd drill that hole through the back of the chuck at a tapping size. Then just tap the chuck after it's off the arbor. Any arbor that chucks used with after that can be removed just by screwing in the correct sized socket head cap screw. Afaik Albrecht keyless chucks can't be drilled in that area or you'll ruin them. I could have gotten some incorrect information about that though.

[@swordofthelord7104]

Hi Joe. Great video as usual. I wonder have you ever thought of doing a video of Rotary Table part set-up tips? I dont use it much and it seems every time I do I have forgotten everything I learned from the previous time and I end up with parts orbiting the cutting tool or arcs I never intended! I cant find much of value on KZbin and wonder if you have some golden rules on where the datum point should be and how to set-up parts accurately?

[@joepie221]

They are coming.

[@swordofthelord7104]

Thanks Mr. Pi. Top class work.

[@ianpendlebury3704]

Great stuff , as always ! Thanks Joe.

[@wint3rsmith42]

brilliant and so simple, Thanks for all the advice

[@nightster6378]

Hi Joe I know you mentioned a worn tailstock but I think it would be a good Idea for people to check their headstock and tailstock alignments before doing this. I have known these to be out even on lathes with no wear. But a great idea anyway.

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

Another nice video Joe

[@tomharrell1954]

Cool idea!! I never think of this stuff. I guess I am in the box

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

Classy Joe. Solved more issues thanks. _Dan_

[@tomharrell1954]

Another cool idea! A huge shim

[@richardhemmer9108]

i have use a small block sitting on the main part of tool holder. this would be a quicker and easier tool change. thanks , was surprised to not see a lock nut on your bolt though.

[@dahut3614]

Do you have a good way to zero the X direction, or just half the bit plus half the diameter of the part, or you know the offset from the edge of the block to the center, or maybe you set a tool offset on the DRO? I'm pretty sure nobody wants to be taking parts out of the chuck...

[@joepie221]

Put the indicator in the collet and set the tool holder with the block. Record the numbers and go for it.

[@jimtygart5320]

you are the master thank you joe

[@jamesciampi6392]

I'm 78 and still learning

[@joepie221]

My Father used to say, " a day you don't learn something is a day wasted". He was spot on. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Great video, thanks for sharing

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed the tips/lesson....atb

[@imnotahealthandsafetyperso4889]

That’s cool as Pinguin piss .il be ripping my Jacobs off today and also making a adjuster on the mill thanks joe

[@joepie221]

These little things make life easier.

[@HanstheTraffer]

Could you taper the hole to say a MT 2 to accept MT 2 drill bits? You can buy MT 2 bore reamers for under $15 for a set (rough and finish reamer)

[@mikemoore9757]

You just proved that there is more than one way to skin a cat! Your good dude, your good.

[@sblack48]

Are saying that morse taper shanks are separate from the drill bit? I thought they were all the same chunk of metal! I gotta try that. Great vid. Again.

[@Gottenhimfella]

They're separate from the drill chuck, if that's what you mean. They have a taper at both ends. The taper in the chuck is not a Morse taper, but (usually) a "Jacobs Taper". eg JT2, JT6 (they don't run in strict size sequence the way Morse tapers do)

[@joepie221]

Bingo. 99% of the time, they can be removed.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Another way to remove them, if they have no thru hole and have been on for a while, is to use them to chuck a big, blunt milling cutter and side-mill a piece of scrap so they chatter badly and (often) fall off. This is only applicable if the Morse end of the shank can be firmly retained, either by a drawbolt or by a collar such as some Swedish machines (notably Arboga) use. A third way is to use a pair of wedges slotted from one end to fit around the Jacobs taper. Just squeeze the ends of the opposing wedges together in a vice. These are available in sets, but you'd need to have a lot of chucks to remove to justify buying a set!

[@sblack48]

Guys I am talking about taper shank drill bits, not drill chucks.

[@Gottenhimfella]

OK. that's not what was being talked about on the clip, and the answer to your question is no.

[@miketownsend6108]

thanks Joe P I all ways have trouble reaming holes ,250 .375, ,500 .etc.maybe you could show how it should be done thanks

[@joepie221]

As a general rule, the amount of material I leave behind for reaming is driven by the size of the reamer. In your size range, I leave about .015". Run the machine slower than the drill RPM and don't peck with a reamer unless you a have a good reason to. Constant feed and lubricant and your results should be favorable.

[@brainfornothing]

Thanks for sharing !

[@1873Winchester]

Hmmm, what if you made morse taper in the block instead, maybe a size 3? Then you could fit a drill chuck in the hole, and bigger morse taper drills directly.

[@zumbazumba1]

They sell those i seen them.You could get a er32 or 40 chuck with a morse taper and use it both in a holder and a in tailstock.

[@mrayco]

Great video, thanks for sharing. 😘

[@glenncpw]

How in hell do think of these things - Bloody Great... Good onya

[@joepie221]

Slave driver boss and no time to order anything.

[@mikenixon9164]

Good ideas

[@somebodyelse6673]

Another approach to the "can't drill with my tailstock" issue is: shop.aloris.com/dovetail-chuck-holder-AXA-35 www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/tool-post-drill-chuck/ If you just want to use it, you can buy it. As you can see there's no rocket science involved so those of us who are so inclined can make our own. I have yet to think of a reason why you couldn't put an ER collet holder in place of the drill chuck, so there's that. Ya always get me thinking, Joe. Thanks mate!

[@tomharrell1954]

First I love your name it’s great

[@mathankumar6473]

Joe can you make a video about how to make threading dial in homeshop and explain about threading dial.thats good idea to drill a hole.thank for the video

[@joepie221]

Take a look at my " engaging the halfnut" video. It covers some good stuff.

[@mathankumar6473]

Joe Pieczynski thanks for that video.i just watched.man that really helps me.my lathe doesn’t came with a thread dial.i plan to make one.does the gear below the dial that attachment to to the lead screw really matter? Or can i use any pitch gear to make the dial?its a 5 thread per inch lead screw.im really confused about the gear pitch that going to drive the dial

[@zumbazumba1]

If you have a clutch or reverse on your lathe you dont need a dial.When on end of a thread back your crosslide or compound and put lathe in reverse.Then let it run a little bit more than your peace you are threading take a depth of cut you want and put it in forward-you do that to eliminate backlash in your lead screw.As long as you dont dissengage the half nut or move compound pitch will stay aligned. You can also "put it back into the pitch"by letting your carriage moving forward while engaged with half nut but dont take depth of cut -stop the lathe when on begining of the thread you cut (or existing one)and then with crosslide adjust the knife to fit the threads-basicly you use existing thread as fishtail gauge. Sounds complicated to explain- easy to do in real life.

[@zumbazumba1]

To answer you need 5threads per inch gear since its the one that needs to fit and engage the leadscrew.

[@mathankumar6473]

zumbazumba1 I have a 20 teeth gear that will fit perfectly on my lead screw.will it work?im really confusing that the gear teeth really matter or i can use any gear as long it fits the lead screw?

[@zumbazumba1]

Hmm i seen those holders with morse taper,i never liked them it was a mess and time consuming to set it up.You have to adjust the cross slide in center then height of tool holder and then make it square with chuck. I would rather put a bushing in a tailstock and make it good since its used for many operations and its very important part of lathe.

[@ellieprice3396]

Also check that your compound bolts are tight since pressures of off center tool post drilling may cause it to rotate.

[@johntaylor1310]

Where have you been. Missed you

[@joepie221]

Working my ass off under unrealistic deadlines. Sorry for the absence. I have several I'll be putting up back to back. Thanks for hanging in.

[@johntaylor1310]

I know your pain. Been up since 3 am working on some small parts for a paper mill

[@VladekR]

KISS prove to work again!

[@braxtonec]

Outstanding lessons. Thank you

[@markgriffith2531]

Joe, unrelated to this video, I remember you showing your favorite magnetic indicator holder by General Tool. I ran across one at a model engineers show. It turns out that company is still around and still make that holder. Cullen- Legois Mfg, Wisconsin. You can see these at clmi.net Good stuff! Mark

[@pobbel7897]

clmi.us

[@zumbazumba1]

shop.kinexmeasuring.com/en/magnetic-stand-kinex-umag-pn-25-1858-1-294n-p162c14/ See if you can get one of these-i got one -best indicator stand i ever saw,even better than noga.It has best and sturdy fine tune adjustment that i ever saw.Worth every penny (buy quality pay extra and have it for life).

[@dahut3614]

The U.S. General indicator holder is highlighted in Joe's video "Setting lathe tools on center." kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z37Vm6F_mNiWrqs

[@joem9380]

Awesome 👍

[@joepie221]

Thanks 🤗

[@peteferguson7024]

Sweet!

[@BillyTpower]

Joe, i've never been shy about asking stupid questions, here's proof... I understand how to set height, I also understand the tramming to align the carriage movement to the line of the drill, but I don't have a clue how you set the cross slide up or back to be on center? Unless you mean to use a coaxial indicator each time....

[@joepie221]

The toolholder adapter is a tool just like any other. realistically, it only needs to be setup one time. After that, the height will be integral to the holder, and the centering will be driven from a cross slide number like any other tool. Once you have initially trammed the outside of a block like this, the indicator will go in the collet. tram the bore of the block, record the number and lock the height and off you go.

[@sp1nrx]

I didn't know Ruger was dead. What happened?

[@joepie221]

I lost my little friend about a month ago. I still can't believe he's gone. There is no decision on what happen, but he was 11 and possibly had a heart attack. I'm really sad.

[@mirage2598]

yay so far no dislikes 👍

[@yt650]

Wonderful. Good items to have. Thanks. I’m out. Ha.

[@kongwu8390]

i am a little shocked that the first tool is really common in China. you can buy it on line. and they have all kind of sizes.

[@mccgakloi]

kong wu my brand new Chinese lathe tailstock was 0.1mm/4 thou too high! I had to get it precision ground by local toolmakers. Even now I need to use a quality ER collet to be on centre.

[@kongwu8390]

that sounds about right. but also there are pretty good quilty ones too made in china. i usually dont buy the cheapest, they dont play by the rules.

[@lawrprry1]

Your voice has a lot of echo much of the time.

[@dimitar4y]

Hello fine sir, I would like to give you a very specific constructive feedback, which I believe should be respected by nearly every person who makes a youtube video or similar format item. It is my strong belief that you should SHOW every single item when talked about, rather than simply saying it. For this purpose, illustrations, footage and demonstrations are golden. Although what you have shown and detailed is sufficient for someone experienced (I fit here), I believe these golden tips will not be available to novices (which I could've been), and I do honestly believe the valuable information you have presented should also be available to novices as golden advice. At the very least a draft example, just holding an item, to another item, and explaining loosely how they fit, would be sufficient, rather than just posing infront of a camera and talking with no assisting teaching materials; in this case the video format is completely meaningless and useless, distracting and detrimental to the overall video. Thank you, and have a splendorific day! (old comment: Boo! Show not tell!)

[@joepie221]

I appreciate feedback from all directions. thanks. Now take the 'Boo' back.

[@dimitar4y]

Took back the Boo, take a look at the comment now. >_>