Toolmakers Adjustable V Blocks P2

[@Lazer108]

Little things like elastic bands around the parallels, are just neat little tricks I'd never of thought of. Thanks!

[@privatezim3637]

Respect for the ballsy tapping method there

[@ctsteve1967]

ya think but it worked with brass

[@michaelandersen7535]

Yeah, he must really know the machine. That could easily go wrong...

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

If you have a 3 phase mill it will automatically reverse when you throw the power switch in the opposite direction. No need for waiting for a complete stop. If you have never tried this, you should, but I would suggest you bring the rpm down to a very low speed until you get the hang of it. Drill the hole at the correct spindle speed, put the mill in back gear, put the tap in a KEYED chuck (ball bearing type the best).....not keyless as it will self tighten sometimes to the point of cracking the chuck, make sure the vise is tight, and bring the tap to the work using the quill feed handle until it begins to self feed, keeping your hand on the power switch to instantly reverse before you run out of threads on the tap.I had high school students doing power tapping on Bridgeport’s in just a few minutes. You can do it too. And after you get the hang of it use common sense........no you should probably not tap 1 inch-8 threaded holes using this method and use a spiral point or gun type tap that pushes the chips ahead of the tap. Through holes only. No blind holes until hours of experience unless you like removing broken taps.

[@johnbirkholz994]

@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 Power tapping as you described (quite well I might add) is a pretty reliable way to tap holes if you are already set up in the mill. Leaving the chuck just slightly looser than you want it to be lets the tap do its work, but slip rather than snap if it binds. Saves a lot of arm and wrist strain, especially if you have a multiple hole pattern to do. Source: I am apprenticing in tool and die at my job and did this last week, instructed by a 40 year veteran machinist.

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

John Birkholz thanks John. Nice to know I can still verbally cover a technical subject to the point of understanding.

[@ChrisFiggatt]

Love seeing your various options for setups

[@twobob]

I was impressed by the luster of the cluster ;)

[@jeffbuckles]

"That's what I'm gettin' to with all this yappin'" You keep yappin, I'll keep listening. It's all good!

[@Rob_65]

I have a few of those 'little vises' in larger dimensions, sometimes called toolmaker vise, sometimes grinding vise but all times the chingas drops out of the chingas here too. I love how you spend the time to explain the different ways to set up for milling the chamfer on the nut.

[@robertpartsmade5832]

I Fail to see why anybody can give content like this the 👎 .... as always Mr Lipton an excellent video . Stay safe Regards Robert Partsmade 🇬🇧

[@MikeBramm]

Nice work. You always show some new way of getting the job done.

[@davidweber4750]

You and all of the other creators especially you are all such amazing teachers and such a great thing that you're sharing your knowledge because I know that back when you probably learned people didn't necessarily do that you had to figure it out by yourself I'm glad that you're here to share your wisdom

[@jeffbuckles]

It's always a pleasure to watch someone with the heart of a teacher sharing what they've learned. "Don't ask him how he knows that..."

[@yosmith1]

I don't care how many times I watch Tom work, there's always many "no shit" moments. Keep em coming, Tom!

[@Pow3llMorgan]

"I've screwed up every way that you can probably screw up on stuff like this" I hope you know how much this means to those of us who are budding machinists or hobbyists, coming from someone like you. It brings great confidence and reassurance, I can tell you!

[@hassiaschbi]

Povl Besser an expert is a person who did all the mistakes in that specific field

[@Pow3llMorgan]

@@hassiaschbi I like that explanation more than the bone-dry one I've been given: An expert is someone who has more than 10.000 hours worth of experience in a specific field.

[@Cadwaladr]

I'm primarily a woodworker, but I always enjoy your videos and feel smart when I think of something related to machining, for instance, it occurred to me that you could probably use a fly cutter to cut those radii, then you mentioned it a minute later.

[@robwigglezz944]

Pre thumbs up, cause I know it'll satisfy my craving.

[@1dd-h6y]

Try doubling up the thin parallels, the shorter one against the vise jaws and the one supporting the part next to it. For example, 1-1/4" parallels against the jaws and 1-3/8" tall parallels held next to them. For thinner parts I use a curved piece of flat spring steel to hold the parallels in place. It would be nice if 1/16" parallels were commercially available. Thanks for the posts.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That was great. I sure am glad you are making some videos again. I tap things like that but mostly in the drill press.

[@fredgenius]

Love the sine bar! Next time you get more made, how about some metric versions? 100mm would be nice...

[@MrRvandeW]

I second that, 100mm would be a nice size.

[@Rob_65]

Meh ... even if the length is exactly 100mm, you always end up with odd sizes of gauge blocks to be stacked together. But since my vises are only 100mm wide that would be a nice size. But you do need to engrave the length of the sine bar, preferably in metric as well as imperial sizes.

[@michaelmarks1391]

Love the rubber bands to hold the thin parallels.

[@seanrodden6151]

Michael Marks Not as pretty as the Edgetech solution, but quite a bit cheaper!

[@johnbirkholz994]

@@seanrodden6151 My coworkers put a light duty spring between the parallels, same idea as the rubber band, just pushing them out rather than pulling them back.

[@Molb0rg]

those angle setting options - soo sweet))

[@ckvasnic1]

Thank You Mr Wizard! Thank you for sharing your time and many talents! All the best Chuck

[@bcbloc02]

I use my magnetic electronic level all the time for setup. It works great!!

[@kknives_switzerland]

So do I😁🤜🏻

[@Ryan-dz3jo]

Thanks Tom, really enjoy the yappin and set up demonstrations.

[@nickhenscheid369]

I loved the small part setup! I machined a bunch of tiny 1/4" square brass a few years ago for fancy cabinet door hardware and the hardest part was holding on to the stuff.

[@erlingweiseth2774]

Off to the garage to try some power tapping for the rest of the day. Nice video. Thanks, Tom!

[@СергейКолесников-ф5ь]

Спасибо за Ваши видеообзоры. На Вашем опыте хорошо учиться. Много интересных технологических приемов.

[@SlowEarl1]

Very cool video! Always learn something new .Thanks Tom!

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Tom, those digital level boxes are brilliant, I’ve had one for quite a while now and it’s more than good enough for the projects I make, I find it really useful for setting the compound slide angle on my shaper, takes the guess work out, the little tiny vice could be a very handy item to own as well, probability get used quite often for little jobs that are a pain to hold in a set of larger jaws, easier to hold the part in place when snugging up the vice, thanks Tom for sharing another great video, please stay safe, Cheers Matty

[@oldschoolengineer58]

Tom that was a neat trick with the tapped jaw screw, i will alter my own and use that set up, thanks for sharing and keep safe

[@RightOnJonCrane]

Wow! Great video Tom! The Ox Tool sine bar gets the job done ✅ I’ll have to head over to your swag rack and pick up one 👏💪

[@gasparini76]

Good to see you back Tom! Stay safe!

[@Texicles]

Watching the first few minutes of exploiting symmetry, I thought to myself, I knew Tom was a bright guy, but I didn't realize he was some kinda brain genius

[@MrCellardoor7]

Texicles machinists have been using these techniques for a long time

[@Texicles]

@@MrCellardoor7 I know they have, and it's not the first time I've seen it. My comment was exaggerated for comedic effect That said, while I've seen all sorts of tricks before, I don't get to interact with real machinists much. CNC folks seem to have little use for the arcane arts of machining, and sometimes look at you like you've got lobsters crawling out of your ears when suggest such things. There are people out there, running successful shops, who don't understand the concept of grinding a HSS form tool. Literally willing to buy a whole box of carbide insert blanks and have a tool grinder make form tools with them for a one-off, 2 piece aluminum job because they don't quite grok that you can buy a $4 piece of HSS and get the same (possibly better) result Old school toolmakers exist, Tom's proof enough of that, but there are places where manufacturing takes place seemingly without their sorcerer's ways

[@MrCellardoor7]

Texicles all manufacturing takes place without sorcery, most manufacturing takes place without hand ground tools

[@Texicles]

@@MrCellardoor7 Whooooooosh...

[@Chris-bg8mk]

The biggest pitfall, as I see it, is that your datum moves around when you exploit the symmetry. As long as you are keeping an eye on that, and the parts required precision supports it, it's a great technique!

[@craigbrown790]

Very much enjoying this project, and all other projects you do for that matter, and would like to make a pair of these in the future. Would also be great if you made one of those tiny vices that you used to hold the brass part. Cheers, Craig

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Wow that’s awesome!!! Thanks for sharing

[@krazziee2000]

very good video and lesson, thanks so much for your knowledge..

[@billdlv]

Looks good Tom. I like your tips on holding the small part at the angle.

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video Tom.

[@jamesstanlake4064]

Great video. I love the digital angle finder. As a woodworker I bought one simular to the one you have but when I recently bought a new table saw it had one built in for the blade angle adjustment. So much easier than kneeling down and trying to align a flimsy pointer on a wide mark on the cabinet base.

[@wilsonhardy2100]

Tom, you just rock, that’s all there is.

[@outsidescrewball]

lots of lessons...enjoyed

[@mikepeterson8663]

Tom look's like you have another project right in your setup. You could make a new one or make a fix for your little vise. amazing what you think of when you have extra time on your hands lol. Cheers from Chigwell Alberta Canada still -6 today and a foot of snow left

[@bob_mllr]

Thanks Tom - greate video!

[@sulyluu]

Question, does anyone know where the into tune comes from... I like it..

[@waldemarii]

Nice job there.

[@priority2]

I hate when my chingus falls out! Great tutorial Tom, thanks 😊👍

[@rickhaass1133]

Thanks Tom - cool clip

[@kevinzucco8358]

Where can we buy these sine bars??? Looking to buy a couple.

[@fredcreer1929]

And a price for supply to the U.K. if that is possible?.

[@heatshield]

I tried looking them up for you but I got a cosine error.

[@Ted007-r5r]

I like your videos. I could not find a link to the PDF files.

[@jeffk5062]

How do we buy that little sine bar

[@Smallathe]

Awesome video, as usual. As for annular cutters - I wanted to buy one... let's just say that the price tag on these makes me close the ebay page promptly...😂

[@andymouse]

Great vids, I am measuring tiny currents in materials, in the Nano, Pico range so sort of the same thing, Metrology, once you go down the rabbit hole your in all kinds of trouble !....just found you and subbed.

[@royreynolds108]

You definitely are in the right hole.

[@ROBRENZ]

Enjoyed Tom! ATB, Robin

[@emanuellandry4559]

Great videos!! Do you make or buy those little mini vises?

[@bobwas4066]

Great Video series!! I like the idea of that stop on the end of the milling vise. Did you show how to make that in a past video? what are the dimensions of the stop? Thanks

[@guye7763]

That was excellent thanks!

[@axisotw3669]

Where can we buy the sine bar? Not seeing them on your site. And where can we get the drawings for the adjustable v blocks?

[@CafeenMan]

At the beginning where you're talking about moving the part, I know exactly what you're talking about. I'm a model-builder and often make hatches that have a screw in each of the corners. So you have to know when to flip the part and when to rotate the part so that the holes are symmetrical. If the hole isn't the exact same distance from both edges then if you only rotate the part then you get a spiral sort of drill pattern and not a symmetrical drill pattern. I'm guessing that's what you did in regard to " ask me how I know".

[@somebodyelse6673]

Also gotta be able to trust your ability to square the part properly, if you're going to reference different corners. (Or maintain symmetry if your part has other than square corners). You can't rely on DRO to make interior features symmetrical with one reference corner, then machine the profile to the reference as well.

[@crossbowhunter9118]

What is the difference between a center drill and a spotting drill? Which is better? When would you use a spotting drill and when would you use a center drill?

[@somebodyelse6673]

A center drill is most commonly referring to the drill used in lathe work, for putting a 60 degree cone in one end for a lathe tailstock center (it has that 'pilot hole' to make a reservoir for lube, a legacy feature for the Old Skool 'dead' centers that did NOT spin with the workpiece. They are used because they are cheap, rigid, and generally laying around in handfuls at a busy shop. As an example: www.grainger.com/category/machining/drilling-and-holemaking/countersinks-center-drills-spotting-drills/center-drills A spotting drill is designed specifically for spotting. Design features include a deliberately short flute length, to maintain as much resistance to deflection / flex as possible. They often have 120 included angle tips, so that when you follow up with a common 118 degree twist drill, the center of that drill contacts the work before the vulnerable outer corners of the cutting edge. Many a drill (particularly inexpensive ones) have had chunks of those corners torn off by using a little too aggressive downfeed. Real spotting drills should not be used for making holes, as you can see chip removel quickly becomes a problem. It's not much of a risk to use a center drill for the purpose of spotting, provided you take care when starting the twist drill. Don't shock load it, but make a habit of getting the the chip to an appropriate thickness (say 2 to 5 thou), as fast as you are comfortable with. That habit will greatly help you from ruining drills and parts, by minimizing 'rubbing' the cutting edge rather than taking an actual cut. Rubbing generates excessive heat, which can work harden materials like stainless and even some carbon steels, promotes welding the base material to the drill, and cause the hole to cut oversize. As an example: www.grainger.com/category/machining/drilling-and-holemaking/countersinks-center-drills-spotting-drills/spotting-drills IMO, the only good reason to use a center drill for spotting, is convenience. There are some tricks to choosing drills for spotting. When making threaded holes, if you make your 'spot' a little bit larger than the outer diameter of the thread, it can serve as the chamfer for starting a tap. You can do a similar thing if your hole needs to be countersunk (typically for a flat head fastener). Choose a spotting drill tip angle the same as the angle required by the fastener head. Spot and countersink in one operation. You may even have to 'pre-spot' with a flat bottom, center cutting end mill when you have to drill on rounded or sloping surfaces, then spot drill on the flat, perpendicular surface you just made.

[@paulbadger6336]

Somebody else, very well explained. Now if more people would read your comment.

[@crossbowhunter9118]

somebody else so a spotting drill is used on a mill and a center drill is used on a lathe?

[@buckshot0203]

This is making me wish I had my machines right now (on order)

[@bobvines00]

Tom, did you make the little machinist's vice that you held the nuts with?

[@jeroen-surf]

Love it!!

[@freemanfreed1581]

so with boring bar and angular cutter we can cut radii?? but how can we adjust radius??

[@dustinmasters9239]

I too use the elastic parallel retention device. 😂

[@buckstarchaser2376]

What is the type of drill bit used at 3:24?

[@johncornell2214]

how do you buy your 5 inch sine plate attachment? Thx for the video's!

[@leejones9827]

I wonder if anyone did manage to find those sine bars available for purchase?

[@markRTFGuns]

Hay. Where can I find the print for this tool ? Thank you. I’m going to look over the video again to make sure I didn’t miss you telling me. Lol 😆 great video by the way.

[@felixar90]

Could always us a FUN-879 screw for holes counterbored on the wrong side (Actually for countersink)

[@willi-fg2dh]

clever . . . inertial tapping.

[@markowen7164]

Just want to say what was that add at the beginning of you video about? But the real inquiry about. Where can I get that little vice from? Mark. A vertual machinist. Vicarious. If you will. Can't afford A lathe or a mill. Just to have hands on a small. Masinest tool. M

[@zordichstach]

looked this up too... www.shars.com/products/workholding/vise/precision-toolmakers-insert-vise-1 no affiliation, i dont own many tools from Shars.

[@robwigglezz944]

Anyone know where to find his sine bars for sale? His website doesn't show them.

[@ccamen]

www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Measuring-Inspecting/Calibration-Layout-Machine-Setup-Tools/Layout-Setup-Tools/Sine-Bars?navid=12107956

[@somebodyelse6673]

@@ccamen - I think he wants one that Tom had lasered out, with the logo and all. It seems like a modest fundraiser, like Keith's t-slot cleaners. Something to buy that would support the channel a bit, not MSC?

[@peterbennett1792]

Hi Tom a question from a tradesman at work was 'what is the point of adjustable V blocks?' He told me the point of V blocks is to have a pair that are identical? I just told him that your an epic tool maker and you probly have a good reason haha. He didnt seem convinced (he is just wondering why I am making them, me being an apprentice and all)

[@WAVETUBE84]

Cool beans.

[@AttilaAsztalos]

19:00 That's not a repeatable stop though... :)))

[@0psi736]

I caught that too! Although I burnt to many brain cells working it out in my head over and over just to be sure.

[@wlogue]

And how do I know? I heard about it one time! Than,s Tom, taker easy, Will

[@zedo5851]

"It's never happened to me and I hope it never happens again"

[@mausball]

"Trust me because I've screwed up" The master has failed more times than the student has tried.

[@billyc2572]

The radius of your "annular" cutter would have been more than enough to achieve what your boring jig setup did. Why did you setup for a whole extra operation?

[@laiquocbao2565]

for surface finish and accuracy, I think. Just like drilling then boring then reaming, while boring can actually give and acceptable accuracy and straightness, you still need to ream it in order to have a smooth surface. Or maybe he just want to do it in that way because that is a training project, lol.

[@Proverbhouse]

Where do we go to get the oxtool sine bar?

[@youcoulduseit7492]

See there, thats just enough fixture and angle gauge use . For one episode. "How am I gonna cut that compound angle" Oh ya that swival base thingy I bought with the vise. there's some real brain teaser's there. Often wondered if round slot milling could be done like that . Like your trick with rounding the ends on bar strap/ a drilled hole

[@joell439]

👍👍

[@89sirmonk]

@oxtoolco where would i go to get those laser cut sin bars? not seeing them on your website.

[@waynepegram3262]

And don't try to power tap with a single phase unit (lathe/mill). It won't reverse until the motor has almost stopped (start windings reconnect). That's right, it keeps on going forward and you now have a 2 piece tap??? Ask ME how I know.

[@josephwilson6651]

We did the exact same procedures on all our product lines, our manager called it "production line fundamentals". I called it Henry Ford mindless drone repetition.

[@454Casull]

Why didn't he countersink before tapping? :(

[@rosserpace3602]

Cool

[@adavid7901]

I’d like to purchase a sine bar where can we get one.

[@Frostysam44]

Where do you buy the signbar?

[@sickandtiredofcomplaining6574]

that little vise is a ⚓️

[@davesalzer3220]

That damn Chingas

[@aerogfs]

So... how do you know that?

[@ehamster]

Given that the angle was calculated using trig and the two dimensions of a triangle (arctan), you could have skipped that trig and the sine bar trig to come up with your stack up directly from the drawing dimensions with Pythagoras. No need to even know the angle.

[@bluedeath996]

You don't learn unless you screw up, and you can't screw up unless you attempt the project.

[@EVguru]

Welded HSS. All of the "If you get HSS too hot when grinding, you'll ruin the temper" people just had their world view shattered. Except that they'll probably dismiss it as "fake news", because unlearning out of date information goes against their fundamental view of self.

[@excession777]

Triffic stuff, Tom.

[@curtisvonepp4335]

PEACHE KEEN SO FAR TOM 👍🙊

[@exdime]

MmmmOkay your the 3D MR Mackey apparantly

[@Kevork79]

when you just said cemetry.... just reading my mind

[@duane4665]

The only thing I hate about Tom's videos is......... They are to short!

[@fenrisulfur666]

The Master has made more mistakes than the apprentice has attempts.

[@glfarwell]

After 45 years, I know this to be true. The true test, is how can you recover from that "learning moment"/?

[@DJhenderlong]

wow never tapped in high gear like that. ha

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

2nd comment

[@kennymarto1316]

1st comment

[@gabrielcheatom7784]

Where can we grab the sine bars