Tools n Stuff - Episode 01 - Build a Power Supply

[@The.Talent]

You are the first person who I’ve seen give any more any than a cursory explanation of the requirements of the power resistor. Thanks heaps!

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

You're welcome!!

[@robertovers1863]

this here is Adel don't you just love her new look

[@GST_Racing]

What do you suggest for a commercial model for strictly breaking in motors? Thank you

[@nflpicks4920]

Hello Sir Love your tension to detail!! I would like to see how you wired the fuses and the power on switch!! I have all the necessary parts but not sure how you wired everything!! Thanks

[@nflpicks4920]

I can’t seem to get my switch to work!! I can get the led to illuminate but that’s it!! Any advice??

[@19Zeek56]

John, Having trouble hooking up the switch. I am using the ATX power supply, the green, and grey wires, and flowing the wiring diagram that came with the switch but I can't get the switch to operate correctly. I purchased the switch above from Amazon. Would it be possible to send me the ATX wiring for this switch, please? Thanks, Ron

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

I am trying to see the best way to get the sketch to you. Until then, here is a description of what is what: 1. Place switch button down on your bench. 2. There are 3 terminals that are oriented in the same direction, and another 2 terminals that are oriented in another direction. 3. rotate the switch until the 3 terminals that are oriented the same direction are stacked vertically, and the terminals themselves are oriented left-t-right. 4. the other 2 terminals should be to the left and the right of the 3 terminals. The one of the left should appear to be in the "middle" of the circle, the one on the right should appear "lower" than the one on the left. Rotate the switch if necessary. 5. The GREEN wire from your ATX should go to the LOWER of the 3 terminal group. 6. Take a BLACK wire from your ATX and connect to the MIDDLE terminal of the 3 terminal group. 7. Take your GRAY wire from your ATX and connect to the LEFT terminal of the 2 terminal group (the one that appears to be in line with the middle of the circle) 8. Take another black wire and connect to the RIGHT terminal of the 2 terminal group. 9.IF THE LED DOES NOT LIGHT AS EXPECTED, REVERSE THE GRAY AND BLACK CONNECTIONS AT THE SWITCH (LED's are polarity sensitive). That should do it... The 3 terminal group is your switch (Common, Normally Open, Normally closed terminals) and the other 2 are the LED terminals. The green wire gets switched to ground (black wire). The gray sends a 5V signal if the power supply is working correctly., and also needs the ground reference (black wire). Hope this helps...

[@19Zeek56]

@@slotcarmayhem9765 Thanks John for getting back to me. Yes, this helps a lot and I understand your explanation. I'll give it a try. As I mentioned before to you, I am looking forward to your next video on the bldgs. Have there been any Smart Race updates that you can post? What kind of information can you give us on tires? my cars are sliding all over the place now. I have been wanting to purchase a Tire Razor like yours but they are no longer available, Do you know of an alternative that will work with Carrera cars? Take care, Ron

[@peterjackson5210]

Hi John, could you give details off what power supply you use to power your track.

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

Hi, currently just the stock Carrera PS. Will upgrade in the future, but 8 cars (D132) run perfect right now.

[@JohnHWells-uc7zl]

Hi John Could you suggest a commercial power supply ?

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

You mean for the track power? If so, an adjustable 20 amp 30v power supply should work. If digital, you need to set voltage and amp settings to match the CU. If your looking for a power supply for other things, and are not concerned with adjustability, a universal laptop computer power supply is often a great cost effective option.

[@19Zeek56]

Hi John, can you give me the box dimensions and where to place each fuse holder? Also, I was wondering if you cut a hole in the box for the fan if so where did you cut it? Thanks, Ron

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

Hi... the box itself is aprox. 8" cube. The power supply is mounted flush to the back exterior. The rear panel is only a couple inches high to allow the PS to be exposed (no fan opening to cut as the entire back of the PS is exposed). The fuse holders are internal on mine as I finished the box (now solid orange) before the holders arrived. If you want external fuse holders, I would place one under each pair of jacks so you know which fuse serves which circuit. Hope this helps!!

[@19Zeek56]

@@slotcarmayhem9765 Yes, very helpful. I was going to put the fuse holders inside the box. Correct me if I am wrong, the fuse holder only attaches to the pos. side of the terminal for each pair of jacks, right? so for your setup, there would only be 4 fuse holders?

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

That's correct.

[@garyhoover1662]

Where are the links to the supplies/ parts you bought?

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

They are in the discription.

[@garyhoover1662]

I couldn't find the description the first time I watched the video but got it this time!! Thank you for responding!

[@charleycornell2866]

Where did you source the meter?

[@mattweisman5124]

What kind of regulator did you use for this power supply?

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Numerical-Stabilized-Converter-Adjustable/dp/B01LWXAC5E

[@alexisernesto3184]

i guess I am kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good website to stream new series online ?

[@neildavidson6062]

Hi John hope you can help me. My ghost cars only make a few rounds and then stops. Can you help.

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

Not sure... Couple questions. Are they F1's? The smaller F1 decoders tend to overheat when used as ghost cars. I also assume they are set as ghost cars not pace cars. Are they set to a very low speed? Do they all stop hard, or do they slow down then stop? Are the motors warm when they stop? Are you running any race management software?

[@neildavidson6062]

@@slotcarmayhem9765 HI John thanx for your response. I managed to rectify the issue. The boys were setting it up as pace cars 😄must tell you was a bit worried. Thanx again. Love your videos.

[@nflpicks4920]

Question, can you make me a power supply? I tried but failed!!

[@drewherbert4835]

I'm sure you'll get to this at some point, but what is the purpose of this and how is it associated with Glendale 65?

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

The power supply? We will be migrating to magnetless racing once the track is at a certain point... this unit will power the tire truing machine (truing tires is a MUST for magnetless racing). A similar unit will be used on the track itself to power lighting and other accessories.

[@drewherbert4835]

@@slotcarmayhem9765 John, When I started playing with slots in the 70's magnets were like a unicorn! Truly enjoying your informative videos. I ordered the 30008 DTM Furore just a bit ago. I don't think I'll have quite as much room as you have, but I can fit a 4 x 8 sheet of MDF on the dining room table. Thanks again for doing the prep work & sharing it with us. V/R DRew

[@slotcarmayhem9765]

Yes, magnetless is a lot more fun. Before this, I had a 4x8 HO 4 lane, and quickly we switched from the fast in line mag cars to old school T-jets and AF-X. Everything slowed down, but the fun factor went way up. Laughter was the norm on race nights. We ran a LOT of "crash and burn" races, and looking forward to doing the same here, just for fun... no points or anything. Just fun. Most of our point races will be a 4 hour simulation of 24 hour events (LeMans).