Top Rope Solo Tips for Rehearsing a Crux Section

[@wetl2628]

Perfect. Same as in caving, rope rescue. Add a cordolette as a footloop to the ascender if you dont have an adjustable PAS so you can lower yourself to weight the grigri.

[@choss0]

If you're working sections this much the much better solution is a taz lov3 or lov2

[@brentbclimbs]

I finally have a Taz Lov - will give it a try and report back! Agreed that it is likely way better for retrying short sections over and over. But, pulley have a lot of upsides (not to mention cost of the Taz) that override the hassle of a few transitions like this, IMO

[@sahntahdemon]

What's that PAS setup you've got there? Looks like a petzl connect adjust but you've added an 8 millimeter cord in place of the usual piece of rope.

[@noahg-123]

just did that myself the other day. A lot smoother, and lighter, worth it for me. Go on mountin project there should be some discussions on it.

[@sahntahdemon]

@@noahg-123 His might be even less than 8mm. It's definitely the Petzl Connect Adjust camming device. Petzl strongly discourages any modification to this device-doesnt mean you shouldn't, just might mean it's rated far lower than their sewn piece of rope. Girthing their device (as it comes from the factory) on your belay loop is extremely cumbersome, and something like this is very attractive.

[@noahg-123]

@@sahntahdemon yea i mean, this might be overkill but i have two setups. I have one that I tie into my hard points for top rope soloing (theres just too much going on with the belay loop to girth hitch my PAS on it) and I have one for reguklar climbing/multipitch where I do girth hitch and it doesnt come off until the end of the day. But yea some people go down to 6mm. I prob wouldnt go past 7.7mm...

[@marcmichael521]

Where is he climbing? Looks nice!

[@tangran-ok7ci]

Do you ever work short, difficult sections on just a grigri, to more easily lower back down? My project has a very short crux and it feels like too much hassle putting on and taking off the traxions over and over.

[@mathpotatostudios]

For this type of thing the toothed pulley devices ie microtrax aren't ideal. Taz Lov 2/3 is the go to device for fast lowering since it has a grigri style handle lowering system built in, but it's expensive $200+ so most people don't use it, however if you rope solo a lot its worth every penny to save going through a long process of changing devices

[@giovanniratti3663]

I like having two strands, on one I have my progress capture device, on the other I have my grigri. Very easy to switch back and forth. Great for short cruxes and repeating moves. To go down, just pull up on the grigri, disable the progress capture device and pull slack through it.

[@deanhart8154]

@@giovanniratti3663 I agree - so much easier and safer with two strands

[@brentbclimbs]

I will use the Gri to hold positions and try 1-2 moves at a time, but it doesn't auto feed, so you get slack above the device and will take harsher falls. The 2 strand method mentioned in this thread might work for some things, but is not practical for multipitch (whether fix-and-following, or rapping in with a long static rope like shown in this video series).

[@boredbeingbored676]

i've been wondering, why does everyone seem to use a belay device instead of a descender? also why do you use 2 different progress capture devices? thanks for the wisdom.

[@bfkeats]

Because most climbers already own a gri gri, and redundancy.

[@brentbclimbs]

A GriGri is the swiss-army knife of multipitch and big wall climbing. Most climbers have one on them at all times in a scenario like this. It IS a descender, and an autolocking handsfree-ish one at that