Torpedo heater repair Low air pressure fix Exhaust manifold installation.

[@36glockman]

OMG, it worked. Mine just started running rich. The end would not turn red and it smelled bad. Mine has pressure gauge already in it. Was supposed to be 9 psi but could not get over 5 psi. Taped screws and gauge and it fixed it!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Good glad to hear it. Here at Torpedoheat.com we have more tricks. (216 801-6215

[@danielwadley8225]

Wow, what a difference. Had only 3 psi out of my remington heater, needed 4. Put new rotor and vanes, no difference. Tefloned everything like you said, shot right up to 5 psi. Wish I had seen this in winter. Was burning my eyes out when I tried to run the heater. Thanks-Dan

[@TorpedoHeat]

Glad to help. If you need to you can call [phone]

[@michaelward7652]

I dont comment ever but you are the man! Was fighting this thing for weeks!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thank you Sir.. You can always call [phone] for help !!

[@patrickm6000]

I used this video to install my new rotor assembly yesterday on my 140K heater. I went from only getting a max of MAYBE 5 psi but when I turned it on I had an instant 10 psi. I adjusted it down to 8 as the specs said and man.. no more smell coming out of it. The front plate is a nice bright red.. I can't thank this video enough. You are now my goto for these heaters. Thank you sir!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thank You I love to hear it. My number is [phone] for service and parts. You can call anytime even if it is just for help advice

[@ZoeyKnows]

I think you should emphasize on your video about the black plastic cover on the outside of pump. Check with soapy water all around the plastic cover where the gasket sits and around all the holes and fittings. I had two heaters that worked fine last year and this year both had cracked housings. Replaced them checked with soapy water and no more leaks and plenty of air pressure. Everything has to be right for these heaters to work properly like in your video, but the plastic housing is what got me.

[@TorpedoHeat]

You are 100% correct. We do tell about the soapy water in one of our other videos.

[@jimm2651]

Watched your video after not getting adequate air pressure after servicing all systems including the rotor assembly. Could only get 2 1/2 # of pressure with screw in all the way. I used the teflon tape as you showed in this video, put the cover back on, fired it up and BOOM, 6# of air pressure on this vintage Reddi Heater 35,000 BTU heater. You are awesome!! Please continue to show us more tricks on how to repair these things. AAA+++

[@TorpedoHeat]

Glad to help !!

[@elgatol4203]

Had to come back and let you know I replaced my rotor but it still wouldn't run,I checked everything but what did the trick was the Teflon tape on the threads. Fired right up. Thanks

[@TorpedoHeat]

No Problem... Please subscribe to the channel for more videos

[@leoneltrejo13]

Thank you for explaining, it helped me a lot in my master heater 215, it had a low pressure and it did not turn on, thank you very much

[@TorpedoHeat]

No problem

[@jimm2651]

I have a 60k All Pro heater that has me with no where to go. Started out firing but just shutting off after firing. Replaced electric eye and not it is running. I only had about 2 1/2# air pressure and I have done I think everything known to man to get that pressure up. I started with disassembly and cleaning and flat sanding pump housing and filter plate. I cleaned the rotor and vanes and found no problems. Sanded vanes on sides to get some gunk that was left after cleaning all parts with carb cleaner. Re-assembled and they slide fine now (were hanging up). Gapped rotor and have teflon taped every single bolt in the entire assembly. New filters added and re-assembled. Nothing different. I changed ball, spring and plug twice to far. I then tore apart and put in a new pump housing after flat sanding. Re-assembled, nothing. I then changed the filter cover with another unit that is working perfectly, nothing different. I then got creative and put an entirely new filter assembly, plate and cover off another unit. Original is the small round plate and cover and I tried one of the rectangular ones with new filters and cleaned and flat sanded the filter plate before assembly, nothing. Previously I had cleaned the nozzle when I was having trouble keeping it running and even swapped it out with another nozzle. Installed new air line and no different than old one which was cleaned, inspected and ends trimmed off. Gas cap was loose (one of those with the built in gauge) so I put an extra gasket on and now it is tight, nothing. I have tried running both with the cover off and on and it makes no difference. The best pressure I can get is almost 3# and I need at least 3.4. Of course it is better if you can produce some extra so you can back it down to the correct level as that gives you some wiggle room as parts wear. Fan blade is clean and entire unit inside is clean as well. In the earlier stages when I could not keep it running I even switched out the board and it didn't help with either problem. Where the heck do I go from here except the scrap metal yard? I could really use some good advice and maybe something else to check for. I actually have another larger heater that I can get the pressure up on as well. Maybe there is a common hidden problem with them both. Thanks again!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Sounds to me like you need a new roeor and vane kit. You should not have sanded it

[@jimm2651]

@@TorpedoHeat I sanded only the sides a little to make sure they were not sticking. Did not sand the ends, but I am happy to try anything at this point. Thanks.

[@Chris-ho5zb]

Any update?

[@aliciajansma3766]

After watching some of your videos I was able to fix my Master 135k btu heater. After cleaning the pump and replacing the exhaust filter I still had low pressure. So I put my finger on the 1/4 inch nipple out the back of the pump and I could get 10psi. After closer inspection the hose for the pump to the nozzle was cracked in multiple places. Replaced said hoes works perfectly now. Thanks for your video series keep it up!!!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thank you for watching my cideos. Glad your heater is up and running !!!!!

[@catherinegrieve706]

@@TorpedoHeat what size and thread pitch on the port for test gauge

[@TorpedoHeat]

@@catherinegrieve706 It is a machine thread. Im not sure of the size and threads but I will find out

[@danielwadley8225]

Should be 1/8 pipe thread, at least that is what mine is.-Dan

[@jpthedelawarebeeman6239]

OK I installed the new nozzle and its running. One thing I noticed is with the cover off it the heater appears to be running better. The cone glows more than witht the cover on. With a guage on I can only just get over 2psi I dont get it.

[@TorpedoHeat]

Where did you get the nozzle from ??

[@jpthedelawarebeeman6239]

@@TorpedoHeatgot 1 from Amazon and also got one from eBay as a backup

[@TorpedoHeat]

Different nozzles have different properties and work differently. Our nozzles are OE OEM by the same company who made it for the heater when it was new. I have no idea what you actually have.@@jpthedelawarebeeman6239

[@jpthedelawarebeeman6239]

@@TorpedoHeat I have heard that thanks. It's running for now and will tinker with it here and there. I doubt I will need it much this year to heat my shed. I am hoping spring gets here fast.

[@PainterD54]

I see many had some luck with using the teflon tape on those screws. I cleaned my unit yesterday and none of my screws (that go all the way thru) had teflon tape on them and I didn't use it when I put it back together and my pressure gauge was right on the money. My unit calls for 3.8 psi and it was on 4 psi when I had it all back together ( so I readjusted it with my pressure gauge) I think they are supposed to be machined closer from the factory so you shouldn't have to use the teflon tape at all. I've cleaned all the heaters I've owned and never heard of using that tape. There just maybe a bunch that need the tape now like you say? I'll have to remember that idea.

[@TorpedoHeat]

The factory ( usually China ) uses a clear liquid sealer so they dont have to take the time to wrap each screw / bolt. That makes the production process cheaper. [phone] for parts and service !

[@adrian-vi8rs]

...................................................GREAT VIDEO................................

[@TorpedoHeat]

THANX

[@fredsanford336]

Just found your channel. All I need for my torpedo heater issues. Subscribed so I always have a place to get answers on my Remington.

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thanx much. If you need help or parts call me at 216 801 6215

[@jpthedelawarebeeman7887]

hello there i have a reddy heater R40T with low air pressure 2psi only ( Adjust screw wont raise it but I can lower it ) I'm thinking the tip is worn or I have bad vanes or there is a crack in the hoses or somewhere in the system. I don't have pass thru holes in the plate it is solid. Any ideas what else to check ?

[@TorpedoHeat]

Check your whole air system with soapy water for leaks. Dont get spray on the motor or wires. You might have a weak rotor pump and most people need to tune up their heater. Also check your air lines and make sure they are good being soft, supply not cracked and tight on the fittings

[@jpthedelawarebeeman7887]

@@TorpedoHeat hello there I have replaced the vanes and puck. hoses too. I messed around with the fuel nozzle after trying to clean it to get a better fuel flow from the nozzle it no longer pulls fuel out of the tank. I have a nozzle on order and hope that fixes it. thank you

[@TorpedoHeat]

Hopefully you used original heater hose. other hoses are not rated for the heat they are subject to when you turn the heater off. I dont know which rotor kit you installed so you should really call. [phone]... You can call up until midnight Eastern time. @@jpthedelawarebeeman7887

[@TorpedoHeat]

Im waiting to hear from you to find out what you got.. [phone]@@jpthedelawarebeeman7887

[@jpthedelawarebeeman7887]

@@TorpedoHeat hello there I should have the new nozzle Friday and will let you know if that doesn't fix it thank you for following up - everything else has been swapped out in it - its a Reddy Heat R40T

[@danieltamay4328]

What kind of Teflon we need to use?

[@TorpedoHeat]

Use the cheapest thinnest teflon tape you can get. Those are machine threads and not plumbing threads. Teflon tape for plumbing is thick and will clog up your threads. Use just a light coat of the thin stuff and you will be fine.

[@handjgrimm]

You are very thorough, Sir and that ''teflon tape'' idea might just solve the problem I have with two 55,000 Reddy heaters. Why didn't I think of that ???? Godspeed ahead !!

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thanx much

[@jesuscuevas4686]

Thank you

[@TorpedoHeat]

You are welcome [phone]

[@adamcowel6410]

super awesome....very detailed ...thanks alot ...

[@TorpedoHeat]

Thanx much

[@jamesgangloff8501]

I've got a dayton 100,000 btu It runs fine with the Tap cover off When I put it back on it will not ignite or run Pressure is set right I checked the nasal Everything seems to be working fine accept a Soon as I put the cover on It While Running runs OK until I shuts off and Then try to restart will not ignite

[@TorpedoHeat]

You most likely have an air leak. Call 216 801 6215 and we wil help you. You can call tonight for the next 2.5 hours if you like

[@robertvanalstine4963]

My heater starts up but it spits and sputter a flame out and around the front cone/ shield. What would cause this issue?

[@TorpedoHeat]

Sounds like your pressure is too high

[@ktcopyguy]

My burning eyes thank you!

[@TorpedoHeat]

You are very welcome. Now maybe you can see (:!

[@devoncole5789]

Dear sir I have a thermoheat 210000 btu that will only start with top off I’ve replaced the rotor right before this problem and now it seems I have to much fuel with top on but with top off I see perfect fog I’m wondering what might be the issue maybe weak spark cause this machine not that old so I wouldn’t think it would be orfice

[@TorpedoHeat]

Most likely you have an air leak. Is that a dual heat unit ??

[@devoncole5789]

@@TorpedoHeat yes sir it is 170000 210000

[@devoncole5789]

I’m in belief it’s the spark arrestor causing my issue the spark starts purple and goes yellow after few seconds then fan kicks on causing pure yellow spark which I don’t think is hot enough

[@TorpedoHeat]

You need to make that heater a single btu unit here is the part you most likely need torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts/ols/products/filter-cover-3221-0029-00-dynaglo-thermoheat-288310040-572696

[@devoncole5789]

@@TorpedoHeat thank you for the advice I definitely appreciate it thanks for responding

[@ryanturner6475]

this is actually a commercial for Teflon tape.

[@natelehman9410]

I have replaced the vanes and rotor in my Protemp unit and now I can’t get the pressure up past 3.5. It should be 4. I have adjusted and adjusted the pump and manifold. If I take the exhaust hose off and put my finger on it I can get lots of pressure. Can the nozzle cause loss of pressure?

[@TorpedoHeat]

You need to check for air leaks by using soapy water on the compressor and back of the motor If you get bubbles that is an air leak and you must stop it. Dont get any water in the motor or thr circuit board

[@blessed1sj]

I have a 115,000, the igniter lights but the fan doesn't come on, any suggestions?

[@TorpedoHeat]

if your motor and air compressor is good then you may need a control board. Check to see if the fan turns freely by hand. Here is the control board with no led lights torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts/ols/products/104068-02-ignition-control-circuit-board-master-reddy-desa-more-104040-common

[@blessed1sj]

@@TorpedoHeat thank you so much, the fan turns freely. Amazing to get such a quick reply.

[@TorpedoHeat]

@@blessed1sj no problem

[@googleuser6440]

If the power in goes threw a thermo cut switch bypass it, this went faulty on my heater and caused fan not to power on

[@erikbogart676]

Is there a reason not to use ptfe sealant aka dope? I generally prefer it to tape. Its still teflon

[@TorpedoHeat]

Dope will be fine

[@TorpedoHeat]

Parts for your torpedo heater are available on www.torpedoheat.com/ It is a secure website. Call [phone] for service and advice

[@lostintime8651]

I'm stump. I have a Reddy 60K BTU heater. I am not getting any air to the fuel line. I tested everything else. Even blew through the hose. All clear. No clog. No air is coming out of the plastic elbow that connects to the black line that goes to the nozzle. BUT if I unscrew the plug where the PSI gauge is mounted for testing, I feel the air. Impossible? You would think. The plastic elbow is not blocked. Any thoughts? The black plastic back cover was cracked. I super glued it, then gooped it, and put electrical tape all around the permitter. Just did this to test. Thanks

[@TorpedoHeat]

use soap water to check for air leaks at the compressor. If you get bubbles when you start the heater then you have a leak. Im guessing you have a cracked filter cover

[@williamshultz3598]

I bet you are bottoming out the fitting and shutting off the air.

[@e954rr2]

I can’t get any pressure has new rotor

[@TorpedoHeat]

We need a bit more information. Heater make and model and such. You can call us untill midnight EST @ [phone] Even tonight if you like. We will help you over the phone !!

[@e954rr2]

No pressure new rotors new end cap and filters it pumps air but not enough to make any pressure gauge won’t move Tryed a new gauage

[@TorpedoHeat]

What heater do you have. Is it the 5/8 thick rotor kit/@@e954rr2

[@e954rr2]

@@TorpedoHeat readyheater 5/8 thick

[@TorpedoHeat]

ok how many BTUs is it ... Small or big heater @@e954rr2

[@gilbertbentley8179]

you talked ALOT about Teflon tape , what about using soapy water on the plastic cover to check for leaks...

[@TorpedoHeat]

You use soapy water after you put the compressor together. Thats the best way to check for air leaks. The teflon tape just seals it up the first time