You're (still) Torque Wrenching Wrong: 10 More Myths Busted

[@TorqueTestChannel]

Babying torque wrenches with folk lore to death for a % point here and there sometimes feels like arguing over procedure & brand of shovel to perform surgery. The best shovel is still gunna be a shovel :D Torque wrenches are sloppy but effective tools. We're for sure making some sweeping generalizations here on topics that could probably use 10's or 100's more test cases, but if a few % points bother you then you might be using the wrong tool. Measuring how much grunt you used to turn a bolt from a certain lever length is going to get you in a ROUGH wheelhouse of bolt clamping tension on the best of days, engineers know this and have to factor it in. Take bolt stretch measurements or ultrasonic readings off of bolt heads if precision very much matters for your application.

[@jaksmith6465]

rotary tool comparison please

[@floppydoggie2718]

What do you think of the new snap on digital 1/4? Deciding weather to spend the money or not. Hoping to get ur thoughts on this

[@donniev8181]

I've often found that anyone who complains about others not using torque wrenches have never worked regularly on cars in their lives. I've seen KZbin masters on this platform complain about torque wrenches not being used on oil drain plugs lol.

[@KyleRepinski]

Would like to see different anti-seize compounds tested, or at least a new bottle because you demonstrated old stuff can act differently. Would also like to see that tested with zinc-flake bolts like almost every automotive OEM uses, since they have a lower K factor than zinc-chromate like you are testing on.

[@dave38x]

This is 100% accurate. For some material combinations (when you start throwing titanium and nickel alloys with exotic platings into the mix) the end load can vary by as much as 50% for a given torque reading too. That's why F1 cars use pre-tensioned studs, something jet engine manufacturers typically don't feel the need to do.

[@volvo09]

Man, the accuracy of that $40 digital torque adapter is wild!

[@tamparockout17]

Right!? I've just put one in my amazon cart bc of this vid.

[@EyeMWing]

Yeah. Usually when I'm going on a roadtrip I throw the pricey torque wrench in the trunk to go with the usual breaker bar. Now I'm just gonna get a couple of those things and throw them in the cars permanently.

[@pacman_17]

I didn't even know digital torque adapters were a thing. TorqueTestChannel I'd like to see a new series on digital torque adapters. There are so many but which models are legit?

[@TorqueTestChannel]

@@pacman_17 Here's your video: Our $64 AC Delco is 5 years old and still pretty accurate as shown, we have a $350 Matco CTA270 one that last 8 months and replacement less than a year, and this new one above that's literally the cheapest we could find is still accurate and currently still working and being used.

[@StuffTested]

@@latindoggy8059 $40 too.

[@ben501st]

The threadlocker rabbit hole is definitely something I'd love to see explored more on the channel. Loctite alone has multiple flavors of blue medium strength with different cure times, strengths, recommended thread coarseness, and oil & heat resistances.

[@edwinlongwell]

A threadlocker deep dive would be awesome.

[@Gabriankle]

There are so many brands! At work I recently saw a box of Vibra-Tite bearing locker (to lock the races to the mating surfaces, not to eachother). We are a custom CNC machining/assembly plant.

[@Sffker]

⁠​⁠@@Gabriankleretaining compound is different than threadlocker/anti seize. if you just randomly google you might find varying answers between “lubricated” torque values vs non lubricated. in my own research Loctite says torque values shouldn’t change.

[@BobWidlefish]

WHATEVER! They all taste the same.

[@Drundel]

Add in permatex orange, that would be interesting. I used it to secure a luggage tag on a suitcase that made a trip from Houston -> Rome, then to the cruise line, then Barcelona back to Houston. I had to use pliers to unscrew it.

[@AJRestoration]

I used to calibrate torque wrenches for Ford Motor Company on BLM calibration benches. I know from experience, that dropping sometimes does mess with the calibration. Double hitting it does over-torque the bolt or nut. You can use a torque wrench for loosening BUT its not advised. All in all torque wrenches are much more sturdy and stronger than most would think, I mean the guys on the assembly line absolutely RAPED them, and they still torqued within spec. Awesome video.

[@maxscott3349]

Yeah just cause it doesn't happen every time doesn't mean it doesn't happen at all

[@maxscott3349]

@@TorqueTestChannel Are you sure about that? We're talking about #2 right?

[@TorqueTestChannel]

@@maxscott3349 ahh yes fair enough. There's beam types too that could be bent

[@teeanahera8949]

You did contradict yourself, “dropping sometimes does mess with calibration” and then “assembly line absolutely RAPED them, and they still torqued within spec”. Perhaps you missed the part of this vid where dropping the tool on the adjustable end physically turned it a small amount and therefore caused a different reading.

[@patdbus]

youre basicly saying dropping it messes with calibration, though not enough to go out of spec? so it would only be an issue for extremely precise wrenches or if dropped way to much or from too high?

[@charlieromeo7663]

For the space shuttle program and SLS, we followed very strict rules on torque wrench use and bolt tensioning in general. The preferred method was tighten from the nut if possible, and use a dial torque wrench over a click-type. We also re-calibrated a tool if dropped, and never used a torque wrench for loosening. Our tools were calibrated in the tightening direction only unless indicated as “both directions”. While there were not many left handed treads on the orbiter, we did occasionally test breakaway torque in configurations where torque relaxation was an issue. Thread locking compounds were not approved for general use on the orbiter, but was used in very limited occasions when nutplate replacement due to loss of prevailing torque and the nutplate was inaccessible or replacement required significant hardware removal for access. I now work for a private space company and we are implementing a “torque plus angle” strategy for certain bolted joints that uses Snap-On digital torque wrenches that cost over $5k apiece. I am fortunate to sit next to a PhD Mechanical Engineer who’s area of expertise is fastener and bolted joints. I get to hear bolt torque stuff as long as I care to. I have the best seat in the place. Nice job on this video. You busted some very old myths.

[@Max_Chooch]

So THATS why starliners door popped off during transport. No damn locktite 🤣

[@matthewmiller6068]

My Grandfather was a machines and his reason for "go smooth" for torque wrenches was so your body can react to stop when it reaches the number (at that time, most all split-beam) or clicks so you don't keep pulling past the number. Less about smoothness and more about body reaction time slowing down as you approach the max. You can go as fast as you want up to near the threshold.

[@h-disconnected6612]

Just like using a clutch

[@perkypears]

it seems like that's the videos conclusion too. fairly accurate when going fast but especially with a digital one you can physically overshoot it and that's the part that ruins the accuracy

[@hannahranga]

It's why I like breakback torque wrenches, you really have to be dumb to pull them past the set point

[@maestrovso]

"My Grandfather was a machines ". I trust machines 🤖 more these days than human 🧍‍♂🧍‍♀.

[@gitbse]

Aircraft mechanic here. We take torque values very seriously, because our work is very unforgiving to errors. This is a great video, and proves most of our processewith our wrenches. We do recalibrate the wrenches if they're dropped, and never break torque and loosen tight bolts with a torque wrench.

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

In that vein, I read that the very short studs on the cylinder base flange, which hold the cylinder on the crankcase against combustion forces, are very critical. [ No long studs through the head, in the interest of minimal weight. Head screws onto top of cylinder to retain.] Paint left on the flange can fret out from under the nut and drop the clamping force into the fatigue range with NO loosening of the safety wired nut. Just a few thousandths of height loss on the very short, and hence very high spring rate, stud critically decreases the clamping. All due respect to all good mechanics.

[@HighGrade_FireBlade]

You shouldn’t go counter clock wise with a uni directional torque wrench, but most torque wrenches these days are bidirectional. If torquing counter clockwise is such a detriment to these instruments, no manufacturer would make them bidirectional.

[@gitbse]

@@HighGrade_FireBlade correct. However, you don't always know how tight something is down. Breaking torque can easily go way above the limits of the wrench.

[@blubaughmr]

@@gitbse I would say going past the click would be abusing the tool. If you never get to the click when breaking the fastener loose, and you reset the torque back to low range as soon as you are done, it should be fine for most things. Aircraft are a different deal.

[@paulcrumley9756]

Retired A&P here. Some of our management wouldn't permit use of the ratcheting feature to install the fastener - only ratchet if necessary during the actual torquing. Same with double-click - most leads would correct a mechanic who did that. Torque wrenches were recalibrated at six-month intervals, mostly to forward specifications only, at 4%, but for reverse, 6% tolerance was permitted.

[@sschoon86]

I don’t need a torque wrench, my arm is calibrated to +/- 75% 😂

[@nasonguy]

Just like my calibrated eyeballs. They measure distances and sizes to a similar accuracy and precision.

[@geekswithfeet9137]

Well most important bolts are torque to yield anyway, perfectly fine to do that by feel

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Calibrated Elbow

[@phr3ui559]

@@geekswithfeet9137what does torqued to yield mean

[@saiiiiiii1]

Local shops impact is also calibrated by eye. 500nm is definitely enough for the wheels to not fall off 😂 if the bolt doesn't rip off, it's a win

[@d3faulted2]

The most surprising part of this video was the Loctite......and how accurate the cheap digital torque adapter is. Think i'm gonna pick one up for my mobile kit.

[@judih.8754]

Agreed. I just ordered one.

[@nasonguy]

Yeah, I went and threw away my 10 year old bottle of loctite after watching that part. That's scary.

[@hypocriticalharambe8274]

​@@nasonguyI finfd that old loctite is useful in place of Teflon tape and to keep my tools together well enough even when expired but if it's got a torque spec use a new bottle.

[@littlejack59]

i mean you could also just get a luggage scale and do some math.

[@d3faulted2]

@@littlejack59 I could....but I'm not.

[@alex_thecarguy]

We absolutely want to see a "how they fake it" video. In fact, what would be really fun is a video where you guys attempt to produce the rated torque figures from various impacts using varied materials and bolt construction. Maybe coarse vs fine threads as well? The theory being more threads creating more surface area to affect the friction.

[@nickwhite6717]

In my mind a finer thread pitch would cause a higher clamp load/bolt stretch at a given torque value vs a coarse pitch. Based on the assumption that its less of a "ramp" on the thread and so the same input force would in theory be able to move it further? Maybe? Idk this is all my own assumption, I agree this needs to be looked into more

[@t3h51d3w1nd3r]

​​@@nickwhite6717It's hard to know until it's tested, the finer threads could also cause more stiction like he was describing in the video, so maybe coarse threads would be easier to torque high. I don't know either, the only thing I do know is finer threads are a total bastard to open when they're rusted, they just fight you all the way out but I can see your reasoning behind a shallower thread ramp.

[@hoosierfarmkid]

@@t3h51d3w1nd3rTheoretically friction shouldn’t be effected by the thread count as surface area is irrelevant to calculating it (Ffrict = Fnormal*f(riction coefficient)

[@MikeSmith-nu9wt]

The stupidist thing i ever seen though was , i bought a bottle of blue loctite , and it was in a red plastic bottle ????? Come on loctite , you dropped the ball on that one didnt ya ? I still got it on top of my tool box , i kinda wanta throw it away ..

[@thomasmleahy6218]

Affected.​@@hoosierfarmkid

[@kenselleck2414]

Just the LocTite expiring info was worth the watch! Bravo!

[@5Komma5]

So the expiration date on thread lock is not just marketing gimmick. That is interesting!

[@prjndigo]

Scarier is there's a minimum service exposure temperature on all loctite type products at which they will fail one way or another. It isn't on the bottle.

[@GNX157]

Same with superglue type adhesives. They’re good for maybe a year if stored unopened and in room temperature.

[@KeijonAutoVuokra]

​@@GNX157Wood glues should stay the same for years and years as long as you store them relatively air tight at a stable room temperature.

[@tagferret6898]

This was the most surprising result to me out of all the tests they did. Crud, now I gotta throw out and replace all my old thread locker!

[@GNX157]

@@KeijonAutoVuokra I’m just referring to cyanoacrylate type glues. I tried to use some old stuff and it didn’t hold at all, then went and bought new and it worked fine.

[@_Mutineer]

In the mid-90's I was Ingersoll-Rand's tech support guy for all tools (in Canada), and then later moved to one of their largest distributors as a technical specialist in 2002-2005. At the distributor was the time when Computer-Controlled Electric Torque tools were starting to be adopted by large Automotive OEMs along with some Aerospace manufacturers, who were starting to adopt the CCET tools for their accuracy and also data logging capabilities (we carried IR but also Cooper Tools digital boxes along with Bosch Production tools), so I have a decent amount of understanding of torque/tension applications, and also was the guy that did the calibration of these torque tools. I have some really interesting stories on the topic, best not shared here in the interest of brevity (Cooper Tools stole my ideas for their second-gen box for instance) So your channel is fascinating for me. First off, it amazes me just how far torque measurement has come in the last 20 years, and just how cheap it has become for your average Joe to acquire serious and accurate torque measurement devices, and how interesting it has become (ref: your channel) to MANY people.. Very cool, keep up the interesting work.

[@szurketaltos2693]

I wonder how the cheapening of strain gauges breaks down. Probably mostly due to Moore's law (RIP) and advances in MEMS, but also I bet due to increasing use in a couple price sensitive applications such as consumer torque sensors and bicycle power meters. It's honestly crazy how much deflation has been caused by advances in chipmaking.

[@prjndigo]

The problem with playing with stiction numbers is that there's no formula that covers even most applications. When you're dealing with oil pipelines in north america there's a rotational speed specified on the wrenches that you're to follow and there are even some bolts with over-under based on number of threads engaged (tho generally if you're using nuts on the bolts that's immaterial) and your stiction can vary "wildly" with temperature, humidity, altitude, diameter and the given quality of a batch of bolts or nuts based on how fresh the tool that made them was. So given that nearly 100% of the torques you're told to apply are around 110% of necessary, arguing over which mouse farted in the outhouse is kinda pointless. When it becomes important you get instructions to "torque to x, back off to y, then torque to z" and by god follow those instructions.

[@alexdrockhound9497]

In the academic world it would be called the static coefficient of friction. Theres also a kinetic coefficient of friction. They are almost always different from static to kinetic, and that often times causes weird things to happen. All surfaces will have static and kinetic coefficients too, not just fasteners.

[@arthurmoore9488]

@@alexdrockhound9497 Anyone who's ever had to move something just a little bit to get it into position is probably intuitively familiar with the pain of static friction. Eg, moving furniture that last half an inch. Inevitably, it leads to overshoot since once you get the thing moving, you can't stop it fast enough. Unfortunately, it also affects older and lower quality machine tools. Especially those that aren't cared for as well as they should be.

[@alexdrockhound9497]

@@arthurmoore9488 it also tends to be the cause of many squeaking/creaking noises.

[@alandaters8547]

@@alexdrockhound9497 I presume that also figures in with car tire friction. If a tire/wheel is rolling at "car speed" it has more traction than if the tire/wheel is either locked up by braking or spinning faster than "car speed" due to application of too much torque.

[@OneManAndHisThoughts]

I’ve had a torque wrench in my box for almost a decade now and I’ve not used it once as my type of work doesn’t call for it………still excitingly watching this

[@ElectroAtletico]

Breaker bar or a biggo wrench has been my go-to for almost everything. Torque only when the manual really emphasizes it.

[@TorqueTestChannel]

@@ElectroAtletico There's probably a reason it took us like 3 years to test torque wrenches on the channel. We use them on a pretty short list of fasteners on a vehicle if i'm honest, most get a few good ugga duggas :P

[@OneManAndHisThoughts]

@@TorqueTestChannel would it be possible to test the difference in torque between 1 ugga dugga and 2 and 3 and so on until it becomes righty loosey Obviously being different between brands etc

[@tyrannosaurusimperator]

​@@TorqueTestChannelI work in manufacturing and we have lots of torque specs, but we don't use torque wrenches. We have all kinds of electronic torque tools instead.

[@richadent968]

Thanks for covering something almost everyone that ever owned a torque wrench has asked.

[@prjndigo]

You can actually freeze loctite off too, I've seen blue _melt_ at 27°F after being hard frozen at -80°F and the older the loctite is the more sensitive to moisture, electricity and other effects it will be. Loctite is also not meant to be exposed (open to air) as this can cause it to wick-in things that destroy it more readily.

[@szurketaltos2693]

Question then, would vacuum sealing the loctite and climate control between use make it last indefinitely?

[@xtevesousa]

@@szurketaltos2693 On the contrary, thread locker bottles come with lots of air inside, people even complain that they get a half a bottle, when in reality the air is necessary to keep it from setting, they set from lack of oxygen and reactions with the metal.

[@szurketaltos2693]

@@xtevesousa Oh, that's neat. How about dessicant, then?

[@jacob_90s]

I've always felt the smooth travel idea was more to address the human element, rather than the torque wrench itself

[@otterconnor942]

Especially on inch pound torque wrenches, their clicks are much less noticeable. Torque screwdrivers are fantastic and impossible to over tighten

[@4450krank]

We do it at my work, but we also deal with torque as low as 0.6lbf. going fast with that low of torque would over tighten bolts and crack stuff.

[@jlkraus2]

that tekton wrench is one of my all time favorite $30 purchases

[@matthewalvarez5661]

I've got one, too. No need for a breaker bar with that big guy around.

[@victorhoyt4352]

And it has a lifetime warranty!!

[@brendon408]

One interesting thing I read about a few years back is cylinder retention failures on Aircraft horizontally opposed piston engines due to people reusing hardware where the cadmium plating on the nut and washers had worn off. The NTSB has found that the cadmium coating makes a significant difference to the applied torque, we often need to apply jointing compound for dissimilar metal corossion or polysulphide sealants to the bolt shanks and its good practice to reclean the threads prior to torquing the fastener.

[@chipsawdust5816]

General aircraft practice is to always use new hardware, but that doesn't happen as often as one might think. It's expensive - but failure of a component is even more expensive.

[@ElectroAtletico]

...a long, slow, smooth, steady pull until you get the click. Yep, that's how I was also taught to do, and still do it. No need to change.

[@tjdewolff5104]

It simply 'feels' a more correct use of the tool and 'it looks the thing', doesn't it?

[@Bremberry]

Just yesterday I was searching whether or not blue loctite affects torque, today KZbin recommends me this video of only 5 hours old. Hats off to you and to the YT devs. 😁

[@TorqueTestChannel]

We receive these missions in the form of self destructing emails

[@Bremberry]

@@TorqueTestChannel 🤣 And so fast with the reply. Excellent video, so sophisticated!

[@61rampy65]

@@Bremberry And, TTC has a great sense of humor, too!

[@davidg3944]

@@61rampy65 Humor?? No, TTC was telling facts, they actually are part of the covert World Intelligence team known as - - hold on, someone's at the door. BRB...

[@sferg9582]

I love the addition of the thread-locking compounds to your testing. I had no idea that this stuff would actually mess with the torque setting....or the age of the stuff would actually matter.

[@avocares]

Drop test: a coworker tossed my personal torque wrench and broke the ratchet paul. I think because a torque wrench is heavier it's more likely to break as opposed to a standard wrench which would have survived. PS. My company did buy me a replacement and I never loaned that coworker a tool again. I replaced it with the precision tools split beam and have been very happy with it.

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

Pawl… but yes, a man’s tools are not to be trifled with.

[@avocares]

@@For_What_It-s_Worth geez, I can't trust spell check for anything anymore, lol. Good catch.

[@jamescaron6465]

I wish I knew you were receiving torque wrenches. I would have gladly sent you my 30 year old Proto. I keep my electronic torque wrenches inside the house, but my mechanical ones I leave in the garage. I'm glad I followed my instincts.

[@NickMango]

Honestly, the end of this video blew me away. I’m only buying small bottles of loctite now.

[@h8GW]

I don't think you should get rid of your old threadlocker unless the torque spec is absolutely critical. Sure, it'll be slightly loose, but the whole point of threadlock is to prevent the faster from loosening, anyway.

[@chipsawdust5816]

I don't do much critical torquing at home - I have a Loctite tube that is at least 20 years old. It still works, but I wouldn't take it to the shop.

[@jeremyr722]

I had no idea digital torque adapters were a thing. Gonna get one to see if my old click type is accurate

[@TorqueTestChannel]

I was convinced our AC Delco was just a fluke of a decent one, but it seems we've come a long way if I'd honestly use the TAGVIT on an engine build seeing these results

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Before digital there were dial gauges

[@szurketaltos2693]

@shadow yes, but modern MEMS strain gauges are made using chipmaking processes that have incredibly good tolerances. Not that the rest of the tool can't have issues, but the gauge itself should be really really good. Example from cycling: much more complex loads AFAIK, and the design of the crank arm (shape, location of gauges) and software can make or break the accuracy of the strain gauges as seen with Shimano power meters.

[@Nuke8401DaveE]

One of your best yet. God, I hate folklore! One thing about loosening, sometimes a loosening limit is set (say 150% off installation torque) to prevent fastener damage. Then moving to applying a penetrating fluid and or heat and trying again. The end goal being to loosen the fastener without damage. Navy nuclear power goes little overboard such as the required toque must be ¼-7/8s of the torque wrench’s range. Using Snap-on dial wrenches with the indicator light battery removed LOL.

[@dallynsr]

Thanks for your Navy Nuclear Service. Cool stuff.

[@matthewmiller6068]

That Kobalt one I found very interesting - I have the same one and keep it at 89 ft-lb most of the time (lug nuts) with a dedicated 3/4 inch driver on it for convenience. Good to hear it keeps reasonable, that 2lb error doesn't sound bad at all.

[@sergioosegueda6165]

Nice to know that my cheap 1/2 torque adapter is doing its job, (mine has a range of 25-250 wich is wild to me at least)saved me for buying a big 1/2 torque wrench thanks again for the information you put out👍

[@SonnyDarvish]

My bicycle's steerer tube is made of carbon and has torque specs for every bolt around it. Apparently, I over-tightened the bolts due to applying grease demonstrated in this and previous video. The torque wrench was set to 4 Nm, but it kept getting tighter, which slowly crushed the top of the steerer. But yeah, thanks for testing and showing us this effect.

[@davidg3944]

Carbon fork steerer tubes give me the shakes, I'll stick with steel for its more benign failure modes...

[@deezyperformance]

@@davidg3944I rode a fat bike with full carbon steerer tube for years. Carbon is most likely to fail from an impact more than anything.

[@jaro6985]

Greasing bolts on a bike is completely normal. If it couldn't handle 30% increase in clamping load its a trash design. Not surprising as a lot of carbon bikes are poorly designed and manufactured.

[@mikebillett7935]

@@jaro6985makes me shudder that on my Pinarello Dogma it says on the seat clamp and on the stem ”6Nm Most Safe” Like what the heck does ”most safe” mean….

[@blubaughmr]

If the top cap wasn't the plug type, which is supposed to be a tight fit inside the steerer, then it's the manufacturer's fault for going cheap and using an alloy type cap on a carbon steerer.

[@darrenhenderson7076]

My friend borrowed my torque wrench and left it on 120ftpd and told me he set it to zero used it a year later and it was still within range toy surprise but have had a snap on stop working for same Fate but the cheap craftsmen somehow stayed accurate

[@AlexJosten]

You should do a comparison of loctite 242 and 243, and compare 242 being installed with and without primer on different bolt materials/coatings

[@tsl7881]

Project Farm ( after tiring of peanut butter tests) tested thread lockers many years ago (these guys were still in high school) ,but I don't think he stumbled onto the expiration effect. Apparently this is something the manufacturers knew about ,but didn't tell you why. Kind of like when you bought 3 tubes of silicon and only needed 2, so you saved the unused tube for later. Much later, you use it and find it never sets up.

[@MrHitchikerOz]

As many viewers have commented, Loctite comes in various "flavours". The Loctite product you tested is classed as a "studlocking" grade, and consequently has no lubricating effect. The primary "job identified grades", Screw Lock (purple) Nut Lock (blue) and Studlock (Red) have an inbuilt lubricant which mimics SAE 30 grade oil. This lubricant assists in maintaining the torque/tension relationship of the fastener. Any other grades (apart from some "manufacturing specials" will interfere with this and subsequently prevent the fastener from developing correct stress levels. Retaining grades will have an even greater effect, reducing clamp load by as much as 40%. If you must use these other grades of threadlocker in your application, then you are advised to use "torque/turn" as the method of tensioning fasteners, and not a torque wrench.

[@FastidiousFlynn]

Having the ability to torque with the selector switch in the reverse direction is more useful than just tightening left-handed fasteners. My job requires me to use torque wrenches in confined areas where creativity counts. In cramped spots, if I need to tighten a fastener whose head is facing away from me, I can put on a crowfoot/torque adaptor, select Reverse, and tighten the fastener without having the torque wrench be "upside-down" relative to me. I personally find this to be a valuable feature. Thank you for the great content; I really enjoyed this video!

[@szurketaltos2693]

Plus, it's useful for bicycle bottom brackets! Admittedly the overlap of TTC watchers and bike nerds is probably not high.

[@pkt1213]

Great video! Learned a lot about the whole stiction issue. Glad I could help with my neglected and abused torque wrench.

[@mikesleftarm84]

Holding power of all the different common thread lockers would actually be fantastic to see.

[@frankschopp8748]

So many things to think of. I own an older Chrysler muscle car and it has left hand thread wheel nuts on the left side so do need one that works both ways. So many mythes that you have cleared up . Thank you.

[@alsavage1]

My 1973 Ford F600's 3/4" lug nuts (3/4" studs, 1-1/2" lugs) are left-hand thread on the left side, just like pre '70/71 Chrysler products in the States. Surprised the heck outta me when I found 'em.

[@Swat_Dennis]

I work in automotive and find all of this fascinating… But I only torque wheels, hubs, heads and pully bolts… And also in my case, it rarely matters if it goes up by 30%

[@connorb485]

Awesome video, glad you guys dug into the Loctite thing and the info will make me check the expiration when I'm using it on something with a torque spec. Keep up the great work!

[@ElgrimTheElder]

Don’t you just love when a simple scientific discovery leads to more scientific discoveries. Fantastic video 👏🏼

[@jpuetz88]

I have always wondered about when part manufacturers supply fasteners that have pre-applied thread locker. I install PTOs on Semi trucks and the bolts for those always come with some form of thread locker/sealant on them that is dry and certainly making it harder to turn the bolts that you are supposed to torque. I never really trust it and it makes the bolts harder to install so I always end up using a wire wheel and cleaning the dried stuff off then putting new on when I install the bolts.

[@bloodleader5]

I think the idea with the pre-applied loctite is they assume you're going to run the fastener with an impact, and the friction is supposed to melt the loctite and make a bond that way. Kind of like the polymer glue coating on framing gun nails. I have no idea if that actually works on metal-to-metal connections, though, I'm only speculating.

[@DrBadmind]

​@@bloodleader5threadlockers generally require anaerobic conditions and metal ions to cure, but you're probably right about allowing it to flow with heat

[@billtaylor3499]

You may be missing that some pre-applied goop isn't thread lock, but thread Sealant. This is critical in places like the flywheel bolts on my car, as the flywheel mount has open threading into the crankcase, and any oil seeping through usually wets the flywheel and clutch, failing the clutch function, and requiring full disassembly and replacement of the clutch disc, if not whole clutch. TL:DR, consider replacing the pre-applied stuff with at least a sealant, if not a sealant/thread lock.

[@tryxxor]

When i bought my torque wrenches i tested them directly in the store because they had a tester like you have at the counter, one was 6nm off at 100nm and they told to just get another one that was 0,2-0,5 off, best store ever, will shop there again.

[@jameswagoner3309]

I have been using the Quinn torque adapter for a couple of years now...... thought you knew! They are really handy in a pinch.

[@RazingthenRaising]

I am currently working at an industrial electric manufacturing facility. When I torque 350 mm stranded cable, I ALWAYS go back and make sure that I got full torque. I don't trust expandable materials. Same with 250. I have also found that when I torque things, if I get to the end of a stroke, I sometimes give a little jerk that causes the clicker to trigger. But if I immediately ratchet back and gently pull again, I still have some movement. Most of my work is on 60 inch-pounds, but I have done this with our 240, 275, and 375 in-pound settings. This is some amazingly neat information!

[@RazingthenRaising]

I have worked here for under 5 years, and have never seen these not left at torque. But they get calibrated every year, so.... (shrug)

[@tjdewolff5104]

This was a very interesting video as it confirmed or 'busted' a number of myths in torquing down a bolt or nut. Like the 'double click' and the use of lubricant (or 'antiseizure compounds). I really enjoyed it!

[@volvo09]

@@tjdewolff5104 yeah I've never had a bolt turn more on the 2nd click, so I stopped doing it.

[@ThunderGoatz]

Yes please! A thread locker in depth episode comparing different strengths, brands, age with respect to holding power, and bolt tension effect would be fantastically interesting. Thank u for the content, you guys are doing fantastic work

[@jamiereinig]

Timely video! I have a cheap-o digital torque wrench adapter arriving today which I bought based on one of your previous videos. After watching this, I have no reservations about using it to work on my motorcycle this weekend! Cheers, and thanks for the always-informative videos!

[@rokkyplays]

You guys are the reason I have the tekton 1/2 and 1/4 torque wrench and they work great 👍🏾💯

[@NOTNOTJON]

Great video. Loved that you accidentially came across a new metric to test.

[@dragon411320]

makes me glad I got my tekton, I simply found them best bang-for-buck in general and love their other tools

[@TStheDeplorable]

What a superb invention the clicker torque wrench is! Super accurate, yet inexpensive.

[@johnsmith7676]

Yes, but the old-school, very simple, beam-type torque wrenches never need calibration, do not ever break, and will pretty much last you a lifetime.

[@TStheDeplorable]

@@johnsmith7676 I do notice that they are always found in places that are constantly torqueing bolts, like tire shops.

[@Four_Eyes]

this Tekton looks like a solid option and i can see why your channel is so successful, great stuff here. also surprised YT hasn't suggested your content to me yet.

[@TorqueTestChannel]

Hey thanks man. But yeah for removing, a modern inpact wrench is just miles easier

[@chuckh.2227]

That's a thread locker can of worms you opened, thank you! And some of those torque wrench tales I've wondered about for a while, thanks!

[@ethanpeters9642]

Yall need to make a website with the full updated spreadsheets from each category to access on hand so we don’t have to go back and microscrub through the full list. If you implemented ads for each person that clicked each sheet each time, you’d probably double your income. Thank you guys for everything you do, from a humble broke mechanic.

[@AvallonYo]

For the drop test you should slide it off the table, probably the most common drop

[@prjndigo]

Most common drop is the box-toss. 6 feet lateral, 1 foot drop, striking drop-forged steel wrenches.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

@@prjndigo Hitting other hard tools might indeed be important. I cracked the front glass of my phone when it accidentally hit a hardened tool.

[@joey9511]

@@prjndigo or the chunked 30 feet across the shop because you just snapped a head bolt "drop" 🤣

[@Yonni6502]

Yes, please please do a full episode on how lubes, grease, anti-seize, thread-locker affect actual torque. Would LOVE to see the math. This is incredibly important to my industry. Please do explore this in detail! LOVE the channel!

[@Iam_Yu627]

Refreshing to hear a human narration. Halfway into this, I started wondering about loctite...you read my mind.

[@paulcrumley9756]

Odd how many artificial voiced narrators get so many things wrong -it's irritating, sometimes.

[@Maltanx]

This video came out at the absolute perfect moment. I just ordered a torque wrench to work on my motorcycle and I'm reading every info I can find about them, as I've never used one.

[@bullettube9863]

I worked as a heavy duty mechanic for fifty years and have heard these myths over and over again. As you point out most are just myths. I have to mention that the temperature of the wrench isn't as important as the temperature of the bolt you are torquing. This why after tightening down head bolts you run the engine to operating temperature then stop the engine and re-torque the head bolts. Putting never seize on bolt has no affect either, nor does loctite. Automotive torque isn't nearly as critical as precision assembly of aircraft and space ships. So if you're assembling your car or cycle engine don't be too fussy!

[@jameskenney5623]

It may or may not change when expired. However, many companies have to keep products like this cycled out and, in date, to maintain certain certifications. Thus, if they only use products within date, then they don't have to worry about product variation due to it being out of date.

[@ramble3539]

New video idea: It would be really interesting if you guys could make some sort of dyno setup for shop vacs

[@kmsdaily]

Knowing these guys, theyll probably rig up some kind of dyno using an old mass airflow sensor and some dryer vent tubing lol

[@TorqueTestChannel]

@@kmsdaily This guy gets us

[@benstrait333]

It's well known that vacuum specs are wildly inaccurate, almost as much as the Amazon flashlight lumen ratings

[@pjbth]

Just need a clear tube and a bucket of water see how high it will pull the water up. You could even mark the level it got too and you'd have a great leaderboard. That's if you want a comparison if you want to actually verify manufacturer claims than you'd need like an anemometer for speed and a big bag or something to inflate that you know the volume of to measure CFM

[@BurnerJones]

It seems like they rate them in hp based off the initial inrush current instead of numbers that reflect anything real world. Also, the more obstruction to flow the less current the vacuum will draw. The motor spins more easily while drawing a vacuum than when it is actually flowing.

[@GNX157]

The #1 warming up I don’t usually subscribe to but in the case of a 2-24 nm 1/4 torque wrench I use in the 5-7 nm range, I always warm it up on another safe tighter fastener beforehand, just to make sure it will click over properly and not be once in a blue moon stuck, because I’m using it on pretty delicate carbon fiber bike parts that do not take kindly to over-torque by even the slightest margins. It’s just not worth the risk not to.

[@jaro6985]

Yeah almost destroyed a crankset because the torque wrench was stuck or overtravel and didn't click. Had to drill out the bolts. After unsticking the wrench it worked fine again.

[@GNX157]

@@jaro6985 I do my two crank arm pinch bolts in stages too. First snug both, then 8nm alternating back and forth and then to the 14nm for Shimano road. Add to that the threads are greased so I’m assuming since Shimano calls for the grease, that it is taken into account in the torque spec. I always torque that to the low range of the spec too.

[@kingofspades5098]

I vote for temp guns and thermal imagers eventually!

[@degtyarev708]

Oh, this has renewed some curiosity. My FIL has left his click torque wrench at *450ft/lbs* for the last 5 or 6 years. And he uses it for racing tires! Was going to check it next time he uses it, but now I to see what's happened to it sooner lol.

[@outsider344]

That double click is so my air impact damaged ears can verify I actually heard a click over my grunting.

[@kingofbleh]

Real

[@brucechapman1946]

As loctite and similar threadlockers are partially based on liquified sodium saccharin it makes sense that it would "dry out" over time and affect bolt torque. Great episode, keep up the good work.

[@Mopardude]

Well going out to the garage now to toss my bottle of Loctite. I am sure its well over 10 years old.

[@danielh4995]

Well I am exceedingly happy with my Tekton and inline digital torque wrench purchases after watching this. Nice to see validation of techniques and procedures as well.

[@allenrusselljr]

I've always wondered about these "shop rules" that the old man constantly yelled about. Nowhere else could I gain this knowledge. Thanks

[@johnsmith7676]

Those "old men" were usually correct.

[@terryvickers5986]

As an auto mechanic I was told that the two torque specs in any manual, referred to wet and dry threads. Wet meaning lubricated.

[@KentuckyRanger]

I remember helping my dad, do a valve job on a 68 Chevy 327. He torqued the head bolts, with a K-Mart drive beam torque wrench, LOL!

[@davidg3944]

Used correctly, a bending beam torque wrench is quite consistent. Accurate? That should be checked first...

[@johnsmith7676]

Don't laugh... Those beam wrenches work just fine. And they never break.

[@casey360360]

Being a mechanic, I've always laughed really hard about these. I check my wrenches every year on the tool trucks, never once have I needed to have one adjusted.

[@ThatOtherDave]

"full lube tech on his first day" such a great description.😂

[@tuskiomisham]

Is lube tech a person?

[@nick540g]

Extremely worthwhile test - thank you for the info. I've always used anti-seize on lug nuts and bolts while being aware that I was overstretching them. I'm more afraid of rust than I am of too much torque.

[@dooleyfan]

Great video, very informative. I’ve left my torque wrench engaged for a couple of weeks in the past, never for years or in the rain!

[@prototype3a]

Not dropping torque wrenches is specific to the dial indicating type. Dropping them will in most cases cause the calibration adjustment inside to move.

[@kstricl]

Also the beam pointer type, cause breaking off the scale is gonna make'em hard to read.

[@jeffreyyoung4104]

Great video! I needed such information for my lab, and it will save me bunch of worry about my torque wrenches! I purchased a special torque wrench that I needed for calibration work, and it ended up being damaged from what looked like the reason stated about not using it as a breaker bar, once I had it repaired, I now needed to calibrate it, and now knowing I can use a digital unit to check and verify it against my other wrenches is a good idea. If it doesn't work, I will have to send it out for repair and calibration otherwise.

[@ramble3539]

Great to see more mythbusting content!

[@thorb5191]

After using blue Vibra-TITE thread locker I won't use anything else that needs to be removable. I found it to be far superior to loctite brand or permatex. I found the stick loctite to be the worst version which surprised me.

[@_B_K_]

Heh, I was surprised by Loctite myself the other day. I've been using an old tube, which I've had for about five years or something like that and it was paste-like in consistency. I ran out, so I got a new tube and... welp, half of the tube contents ended up on the floor, because it's so much thinner than what I'm used to, lol

[@TorqueTestChannel]

This was us, hahah

[@_B_K_]

Also, yes, please make a video comparing various brands / types.

[@charlieromeo7663]

I’ve heard you have to watch out for counterfeit Loctite. Anyone else?

[@_B_K_]

@@charlieromeo7663 Never ran into that issue. I've been buying mine from bix box stores, so that's not a concern.

[@lucas2.061]

It would be nice to have some beam torque wrench tests like how accurate they are,

[@johnsmith7676]

I actually prefer them, for a number of reasons.

[@CubanRider]

After watching one of your previous videos, I checked my two-decade Craftsman torque wrench with... a torque wrench adapter. Thanks for the videos, love the content.

[@lifeofavet7057]

Make em long. It's a good watch

[@goskidmark]

If you use any sort of tools, this is the channel to have at the top of your feed. Period. Thank you guys for the hard work and time you all put into this channel.

[@TorqueTestChannel]

Appreciate that, thank you!

[@tamparockout17]

Can you do a video where you test torque by hand tightening stuff? I wanna see what those forearms can do

[@ronhaefner7833]

Excellent excellent video. And this is why there are engineering charts where you have to use the K factor to adjust the torque for the proper bolt tension.

[@HiFiInsider]

is it possible to use a digital torque wrench in reverse to identify the torque spec of a fastener? saves time looking it up in serviceable manual. your thoughts? I’m eyeing the Snap-on digital torque wrench. it seems to be the best on the market.

[@TorqueTestChannel]

19:25

[@HiFiInsider]

@@TorqueTestChannel lol.. just got to myth 9. thank you! Love this video. Will watch it again.

[@daw422]

Great stuff, as always. Nice demonstration that fastener condition (oily, rusty, etc) is an order of magnitude more important than what brand torque wrench you buy and what techniques you use

[@tsl7881]

You can go over to the grinder/ wire wheel and clean the bolt thread, but what to do about the nuts or old thread locker crust in the bolt hole? Would a trial run of the fastener be enough to clean it out?

[@juanc5149]

He is making up for last week with that run time! 😮

[@tomboxyz5564]

I found the digital torque adapters to be quite accurate, I have a 1/4 and 1/2 clicker torque wrench and a 1/4 and 1/2 torque adapter, I like the feeling of the clicker ones, but the torque adapter gives me more range and covers the gap in range that I have with the clicker one. Bidirectional torque wrenches are really usefull if you ever have to remove glow plugs on a diesel, mechanics are afraid of them, because the love to break, but some manufacturers give you a removal torque rating. You're supposed to remove the old ones with a torque wrench, if it clicks, stop and apply more penetrating fluid and/or heat. The torque setting is there to let you know that if you go further you might break the glow plug, which gets really expensive

[@darrenhenderson7076]

Lived in Alaska for years in my 20s and steel got very brittle at -20 and below and at -45 it was as worthless as plastic breaking with a quarter of the weight and any sudden jerks on that metal would shattered so I'd say there definitely not accurate in super cold temps

[@stevemccauley5734]

Umm nope. Mild steel is not significantly weakened until it gets down to -130 or so. Where do you people come up with this stuff? lol

[@darrenhenderson7076]

@@stevemccauley5734 bro u crazy seen fifth wheels break off in -50 they havt to carry half load because trailers can't handle weight without warping heck go watch ice road truckers narrator says it a million times about steel being brittle at -20 and at -50 and below metal straps fail and they havt to use synthetic ropes to do the jobs it's a whole different thing when your in -50 everything in your body is telling you to go in get warm takes over of out in it for 10 minutes or less and do t matter how much you have on it will be cold at that temp

[@J-1410]

@@darrenhenderson7076 Episode season and number?

[@EShirako]

FWIW, I only use a torque wrench to remove bolts when I set it to 75% of its max rating, and when it clicks I stop to either go get a breaker bar or an impact wrench or whatever instead. If I'm REALLY brave and think it'll move with just a bit more coaxing I run it up to 90% of its max scale, but in all cases I stop using it when it clicks in reverse. I would expect it to easily be able to damage or cause inaccuracies in click-style wrenches that aren't tensioned and just 'used without anything set on its dial'. I ALWAYS set a torque wrench to something if I plan to use it to tighten or loosen anything. I've never had an issue when doing this, not even with my Harbor Freight torque-click-wrenches. Very nice myth-busting and myth-maybe'ing, this was quite interesting! I mean, here I am, commenting and I'm not even 3/4 of the way through yet. This is very useful content. I do wonder if the 'bar-type torque wrenches' (where they have a deflection-dial and a solid (but spring-like steel) bar, like my super-old Craftsman torque-whatever-thing) are damaged by dropping or made inaccurate my freezing. Many of these myths may have been true for OLD-old gear, I suppose. Spring-steel would be very different at below-freezing, wouldn't it? I guess there's one way to find out...maybe I should go freeze mine, if I can find the thing!

[@diegomurillo2194]

Almost 30 minutes of TTC, and not talking about Milwaukee screwing up the gen 2 high torque, wow!!!

[@dallynsr]

rofl!

[@andrewt9204]

Holy moly, that's a lot of good info. Thanks for all the testing!!

[@danr1920]

Mopar lug nuts from the "classic" era have right hand nuts on one side and left hand on the other.

[@Dusdaddy]

And most military trucks had left-hand thread

[@Senthiuz]

That's very sinister.

[@tagferret6898]

@@danr1920 my old '55 Willys had that too.

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

@@Senthiuz You don’t need to be so dexterous to put them on properly.

[@PeterC5263]

I had a neurology lecturer who dropped his chalk. He said he was "ambisinistrous".

[@melgross]

I mostly use lock tight for vibration resistance. There are versions for additional strength, but you do have to wait for the full cure. Different formulas for different diameter screws, different purposes such as bearing retention, to fill for loose shafts, etc.

[@andrestoodrip6616]

Great vid! I was just in the market to getting a torque wrench, but I might just get the torque adapter since I already have breaker bars and I think its cooler that way 😅

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

I dropped by a friend’s farm shop while he was rebuilding his 1960’s 1300cc Datsun motor. He had the flywheel on and torqued, so I picked up his beam-and-pointer wrench and idly double checked the bolts. When I pulled up to torque and held it, the bolts moved… and kept moving. We took the bolts off, and found they were stretched 1/2 thread. A previous owner had substituted ungraded hardware store bolts. Clicker wrenches are nice, even essential, but they would not have given this warning if you just pulled til it clicked, and didn’t sense the ’give’. You can’t reliably hold a certain torque. Loved those Stone Age engines. 67 bhp @ 5200 rpm. That’s 50 kW to you, buddy.

[@AtomSquirrel]

Oopsie drops? It’s like you chucked it onto the floor and the table

[@TorqueTestChannel]

No half measures :P

[@jamesbynum3123]

The man did say oops

[@tagferret6898]

@@AtomSquirrel hurling it across the shop while yelling "SON OF A #####!" might be a more realistic test 😅

[@AtomSquirrel]

@@tagferret6898 sometimes I need both my hands, so I do chuck my tools into the toolbox, yes even my electric ones. Ridgid tools are tough sons of bitches. Dropped my octane a couple of times. I’ve gotten pissed at my snap on impact and threw it on the floor a couple of times. It still works. It just doesn’t have enough power (not from me throwing it, just naturally. You saw the test they did on the snap on impact). I had snap on rebuild it (which they did a fantastic job considering I messed the thing up while trying to rebuild it myself). Bought it off eBay cheap MG-725. Couldn’t push my transmission into place, but my octane could. It does come in handy though sometimes when you just need an air impact. But after all the abuse, I clean my tools and put them away nicely because they’re expensive. Funny story, I blew a shop air line once throwing my impact in anger, told them I dropped it lol