Touring Bike for cheap, 6 Things to look out for

[@elwynanderson9947]

You are spot on Jorg. During the last 15 months when everyone was clammering for a bicycle and supplies had dried up I picked up 12 bikes from the late 80s and early 90s. I refurbished those that were in fair condition but many of them were in excellent condition. Our society is geared for “new”. We bore of old. These bikes are languishing in basements and garages across the country. They are easily converted into a touring bike. This is what drew me to your channel. When I saw what you were riding and heard you express your philosophy I knew I had found a kindred spirit. Keep delivering the message my friend. Convert the masses!

[@the1andonly]

Wow, i bet some of those 12 bikes are really good ones too. Bikes are simple. Nothing wrong with older ones 😉

[@jonasmeier417]

Hi Jorg & Folks: Having a GT Cirque from the 1990-ies with 28" wheels, 44/32/22 to 11-46 teeth - good for steep climbs and flats. The frame dropouts are thin, the right one broke after X miles of climbing, had to be welded and is better than new. Hubs SHIMANO or DT SWISS. SHIMANO hubs are good for the price, sometimes they have freewheel problems. Hands down the best hubs for me are DT SWISS 350, every part can be replaced. Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour are good to ride many miles with no miles. Schwalbe tubes are a little bit better than Continental, but Continental Contact Travel Plus are very good tires for the money. RYDE Andra40 are rims that can do 40'000 miles or more. SHIMANO basic parts like Altus and up are very good parts to do miles. Better put more money into wheels, also the frame and ride cheaper derailleurs. All this is reliable, versatile and cheap. For example an S-Works is lighter and faster, but bikes like the GT Cirque last for decades, have high sustainability and can be repaired anytime. The quality is unbeatable. This wasteful everything is very bad, things that last are the way to go. My heart is jumping when I see a Trek, Specialized, Giant, GT and so on from 1980-ies or 1990-ies.

[@the1andonly]

They're getting harder to find, but you really only need one that fits you and you're set for a long time. thanks for sharing!

[@DIY-DaddyO]

Excellent advice. I like bmx bars to get a high position, plus the brace bar can be used for bits n bobs. I must try a B17

[@ryanancheta8528]

Watching from the Philippines. Like this video.

[@peterbaskind9872]

You, Sir, have it figured out. I spend CRAZY money on bikes. Indeed, I am working on a touring bike project. I won’t even discuss what’s involved. But you know exactly what’s needed and what is not. It works. And, let’s be real. If that bike gets stolen, you can get another one like it for very little. As an aside, I just did a build on an old Cannondale using Deore V brakes. I’m very impressed with them. Powerful and great hand feel.

[@alexanderlawson1649]

Sound advice.Recently I picked up a 1990s Specialized rigid MTB, Alu frame and cro mo fork. The bike had sat in a garage for 20+ years, the most road it had seen, maybe a ride up and down the street. The machine is in perfect condition and a perfect bike for rough trail camping/touring. Cost 90 quid, maybe 100 dollars, in your money.

[@the1andonly]

Awesome. You'll get a lot of value from a bike like that. Happy trails!

[@wcronin7307]

Good tips, thanks. I stand by older steel bikes, esp. for touring. Have to get one made in the near future.

[@splashpit]

I bought an old cyclocross Alan for $200.00 AU it rides fantastic .

[@the1andonly]

Awesome. Happy trails 😉

[@woodscraftlindsay789]

I had great success with armadillo Tire liners even rolled right through a tire patch of goat heads which took me about 2 hours to remove all of them from the tires and not one flat

[@wackedoutdude]

Very good advice and video. To the point as well. Keep up the good work.

[@animatorgeek]

Interesting video, good advice, but I strongly disagree with the recommendation of Megarange. I'm sure some people like them, but I and many people I've talked to find them extremely frustrating. They make it so you can't have a smooth transition on uphills. Many times, you'll have gearing that's either too easy or too hard. It'll force you into the habit of standing up for hills, a tiring and inefficient practice. Again, some people disagree, but it's a problem that's really worth noting in a recommendation video such as this.

[@the1andonly]

Hi David. thanks for the comment. I'm sure there are smoother drivetrains than an old style freewheel with six speed Megarange. However, it'd probably the most affordable way to get a climbing gear for touring in the mountains. I find it works well with the friction shifters, but perhaps it needs mentioning that not all derailleurs can handle the big jump. I know what you mean with the too easy or too hard ratios, but consider this a minor problem. I'm happy with mine, only the wear out pretty fast.

[@gordoncraig8238]

Good info. As you said, keep checking the chain. I didn't keep checking mine after a while and it wore out the cogs. When I put a new chain on it kept jumping. With all new cogs I've just completed another tour.

[@the1andonly]

Thanks for sharing, Gordon. I think most of us have been there. I just made a video about my worn out cogs 😂

[@BarrySmithviolin]

Great video...Thank you..

[@kennethcolbert2921]

You are spot on.

[@alirezafazeli8222]

Perfect.

[@abdellahoudmine289]

Very nice 👍🏽

[@ukpaul9221]

Hi Jorg - so glad to have found your videos that have given me new heart. Thanks for taking the time to explain your preferences and your reasons - they make sense. TYRES - I used Panaracer Kevlar-protected road tyres for my long runs in the past - they are relatively expensive but at that time I was locally sponsored (by Pirelli). I didn't have a single flat in 1060 miles despite some pretty ropey cycle tracks. I now have Schwalbe Range Cruisers K on both wheels, less than half the price and with decent flexibility and with respectable feedback. It's a no-brainer. Keep the good sense coming, Jorg. Brakes - some really sound and insightful advice here. Stuff I hadn't considered. Thanks, bro'. Would appreciate your views on brake pads. There is a good variety for sale and I actually went for more expensive and extensive pads. Did I do right? My current rig hasn't been fully tested on steep downhills yet. You made me sad that I gave up my Brooks Professional when I gave away my best bike. Thanks for a thoroughly useful and sensible review of what is needed to get on the road in good shape without breaking the bank. Every good wish and thanks, bro' Paul in the UK midlands.

[@the1andonly]

Thanks for your kind and insightful feedback, including the suggestion to make a video about brake pads. Hint: I use pretty expensive and longer pads as well. They have a weird name that refers to temperature. Mine have surprised me in therms of longevity, while also being easy on the rims 😉

[@anitac2017]

Hi Jorg, thank you for making this detailed video. I am following your advice as I search for a bike right now. Would you recommend I buy one of the 1980s mountain bikes you mention even if it has stamped dropouts (it's a "cheap, department store one")? I've only been able to find that kind so far...However, I may not be correct in my classification of the bike. Do you think you could double check for me (I can send some pictures)? That would be so great. Thank you so much!

[@the1andonly]

Hi Anita and thanks for your comment. I think a lower end bike with stamped dropouts can work. I also have a bike like that that I now use in the winter. The derailleur adds thickness to the drive side dropout and I added a cut off derailleur to the other side to help support the wheel. I've never loaded this bike much, but think it would be okay. Forged dropouts are better though because you are carrying a load. Also pay attention to how many eyelets for racks and fenders the frame has. Good components are also a real bonus when it comes to a touring bike. My shifters are all metal friction thumb type and will probably last forever. Yes, you can send me a picture. My email is: [e-mail]

[@christopherguzzi1316]

Not sure if I would use 14-34. Not because of the gearing but because that is generally used on a freewheel. Wouldn't you want a freehub for better durability and support of the rear axle for heavier loads?

[@the1andonly]

All good points and I'll likely switch to that soon, hopefully without changing the gearing significantly. As for the axle support, it isn't that much of a concern on a six speed. I've had zero issues, except that the freewheel needs attention every season, when replacing the chain.

[@thomashammack7743]

Make sure the seats nose is pointing straight at the moon before departure😅

[@the1andonly]

All good! Thanks for commenting 😄👍🌜

[@leerobinson8709]

Hello Jorg. Do you have any problems with the rear axle on the freewheel bikes? Im told by some to avoid freewheels for touring with weight as the axles are liable to bend or even snap! Im advised to get a wheel built with a hub and cassette assembly instead as they transfer load across the axle better. This would increase the cost of a budget tour significantly for me. I must admit, i have never had an axle break on any of my freewheel bikes in the past but then i've never toured before nor have i transferred more weight then myself.

[@the1andonly]

Hi Lee. That's a good question and in theory it's the truth. But the free hubs and cassettes were basically introduced because more and more sprockets were packed onto the rear axle. If you have only six (like my touring bike) or seven, it should not be a problem. I've toured with pretty heavy loads on some of the worst roads and trails you can imagine. I'm still using the same rear hub with a free wheel. It's a Suzue with cartridge bearings. The axle is rock solid. I don't think you need a wheel built. The freewheel axle will be fine.

[@leerobinson8709]

@@the1andonly Thank you kindly for your input Jorg. It's invaluable information coming from someone who has first hand experience.

[@thomashammack7743]

Swutch from QR to solid axles

[@chrisloewen2994]

$1,000 is all I paid for my touring bike. Anything ore and your buying something tgat your gonna get caught with broken things that can’t be fixed by your small town bike shop. Anything cheaper Amy your giving up comfort. You can do it and I started 2 week bike touring on my $300 mountain bike.

[@philiprayner1772]

what about using an adult ticycle ?

[@philiprayner1772]

for tires why not use mr tuffy insurts and tanus armour combination

[@the1andonly]

I guess you could install them. I don't because simple old tires roll nicely and have served me well. You'll have to deal with wire and glass in your tires sooner or later anyways.

[@philiprayner1772]

and what about an e-bike with an extra battery ?

[@the1andonly]

Why bother? You can simply ride a good old crank bike and never run out of power.

[@Fitandover40]

This has no sense. First is about a budget and the all these conditions to look for, like frame material, etc. The best tourning buke is THE ONE YOU ALREADY HAVE, PERIOD!

[@VoodooDewey69]

I've found a trek 520 for 250 on the cheap .I'm actually waiting for them to call me .🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴💰💰💰💰💰🥱🥱💰🥱🥱

[@the1andonly]

Awesome, Darrol! Hope it works out. Happy trails and thanks for watching.

[@VoodooDewey69]

@@the1andonly Me too !It's 900 oclock in the morning here in upstate ny.And I sent them the message at 430 this mornin. its year is approx an 87 it has the shifters on top of the neck riser .But they have all the racks and bags to go with it .With my luck they probably sold it by now .😭😂😭😂😭😂

[@the1andonly]

@@VoodooDewey69 Oh no... but hey, they might just sleep till ten on a Saturday 🤣. Good luck!

[@VoodooDewey69]

@@the1andonly Yea they're older !