Toyota Camry / Celica / RAV4 / Solara I4-5SFE - Oil Pump Housing & Shaft Seals Replacement

This video will show you how to replace the oil pump cover gasket and shaft seal on Toyota's I4 5SFE (& the 3SFE) engine. This engine is found in the early model Camry, Solara, Celica, MR2 and RAV4. The cover gasket and shaft seal usually begin leaking leading up to the 2nd timing belt replacement; at around the 200,000 mile mark. If you decided to do a timing belt replacement due to noticeable oil leakage coming from your lower timing belt cover, a highly probable source of this leakage may be from either the oil pump cover gasket or the pump shaft seal. Leakage from the cover gasket can be seen by an oil path leading from the top right corner to the bottom left corner of the cover. On the other hand, oil emanating from the pump shaft seal would less noticeable since the oil will "sling" onto the pump's pulley. Either way, the pump pulley and the oil pulley cover must be removed to replace the gasket and shaft seal.
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[@flicewater3773]

I appreciate the lack of background music and not wasting time showing the viewer how to unscrew bolts in real time. Your videos are to the point, and hit all major points. Excellent job. I have subscribed.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support!

[@davidholland5619]

@@hardlymovingpro NB nnhn no not ñhhuuhyyyujjhyu5yyy

[@jaredhudson8145]

instablaster...

[@charlesedmundadams5238]

One of the best car-how-to videos I've seen. The freeze-frames you do throughout, alongside with the additional narration is great. So often videos like these will breeze through small but important details, leaving the guys at home (like myself) making the fixes going back on repeat over and over again to make sure they got the details just right. Thanks for making!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@robbflynn4325]

Thank goodness I saw this video before I start buttoning up this job, didn’t know about the triangles! Will make mine are pointing towards each other!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you!

[@robbflynn4325]

@@hardlymovingpro actually the triangle on the spinning disc thing is supposed to go face down towards the pump/engine side. The other triangle on the shaft obviously faces upwards but is maybe supposed to point towards the other one from the opposite side. Makes absolutely no sense but I emailed Ivan (Pine Hollow Diagnostics) and he showed me the relevant technical spec picture showing what I described. We both cannot see how it could possibly make any difference and why not have the triangles on the same side, but that's Toyota for you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@robbflynn4325 You're right! Don't see how it makes a difference.

[@cosmicdancer664]

@@robbflynn4325 I wondered this. When I took the old pump off (3SGE) and also on a new pump I bought, the triangle on the driven rotor was facing inwards towards the engine. However the engine manual specifically states to place the triangle as shown in this video towards the outer cover. I've heard maybe the only time it matters is on a used pump to reinstall it the same way so any wear patterns match up.

[@JohnEboyee]

Great video. Needed a refresher since I replaced the entire oil pump assembly earlier this year because the pulley bolt broke in flight (non-interference engines for the win). The shaft seal is already leaking. Enginetech will never get my business again.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@on-site4094]

Great info turned thanks for sharing 👍

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and post!

[@sivucit]

Great Video, as usual. Once I install the oil pump gear, while tightening the bolt, if the oil pump moves do i need to put it back into alignment like the way we do camshaft or crankshaft or it is not needed..

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope ... not at all. Like the water pump, nothing to align. Thanks for your comment and support!

[@jackw3235]

Thank you for your tutorial 👍👍👍👍😁

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@engineer_joshua_no1946]

Great video, keep up the good work 👍 am also an engineer,I would like to learn more from you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! More to come!

[@robertwilliams-cn6os]

I was reading it is possible to do this by just removing the lower part of the timing cover and the idler and slip the belt off the crank. Do you think this is possible or would you have to remove the belt completely?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Don't think it's a time and effort saver.

[@grasshoppaMedia]

How far in do you push the seal? The old one was flush to the outside housing but there is a lot of room behind the seal to push it in further.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. Flush to the outside the housing.

[@budthestud9400]

Would the Permatex silicone gasket maker work for this?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. I've found that using RTV lasts longer than a replacement gasket for the housing. On Toyota's 2AG-FE I4 engine's water pumps, gaskets are no longer used. There's a groove inside the pump to accommodate the RTV.

[@yurisemenyuk4432]

Thanks a lot for your video. Can small pieces of RTV be torn off and further into the engine? This is dangerous. You talked about triangles on the pump and on the shaft. They must be aligned. But the rotor is spinning. Or is it needed for hard fixing?

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you let the RTV dry for around 12 hours, the RTV being squeezed internally should stay stuck to the housing. Otherwise, if it brakes off it'll get pickup by the oil filter and can't cause internal damage since its a soft rubber when it hardens. I wouldn't be too concerned about the triangle alignment. It helps with the remounting of the pump outer housing cover. The hard part is getting the base of the pump pulley shaft to seat inside the inner housing hole. Just keep keep rotating the pulley shaft while pushing against the outer housing. It'll eventually snap in place and there should be no gap between the outer and inner housing.

[@yurisemenyuk4432]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you so much !!!!! Good luck

[@mdbadalmiah6808]

Thank you sir

[@hardlymovingpro]

My pleasure!

[@abisismael1343]

Nice

[@andrewchen4359]

Very Good video. Based on my understanding, do you need to take off the timing belt and maybe water pump before this video? So, in total, is it more than changing the timing belt? My car has similar oil leak, and it's a 1999 Camry, I'm not sure if it's worthy it to fix the oil leak?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Just remove the belt

[@andrewchen4359]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your prompt response. I'm thinking to ask a local mobile mechanic to fix the leak if it costs less than $300, do you know how long it will roughly take?

[@Ray-xb5fp]

thanks great info my Celia has this oil leak will tackle it with confidence know

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped

[@fetiqe]

How’d it go?

[@Ray-xb5fp]

@@fetiqe to be honest I haven't done it yet got the seals but I had to do a double knee replacement and the recovery has been a huge set back I've just returned to work it's something I plan to do before Christmas with my 1st year apprentice mechanic son ( Yippy I have a mechanic in the family) I'll keep you posted

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sounds like a plan. Good luck and stay healthy!

[@chrissizemore745]

u thk u could if u dont hav an impacked wrench just put the gasket & rtv on the cover & use a vice & put ur pulley on b4 installing on the motor?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Don't understand your question.

[@mevin2002]

89 celica with a 3sfe how different is it from the 5sfe? have a leak i'd like to tackle myself and what else should i be looking to replace while i'm down there

[@hardlymovingpro]

My understanding, with respect to the timing belt, bearings, seals, water and oil pump, the 3SFE is no different than the 5SFE.

[@ankersman]

Is that OEM gasket? Reason I ask the one I got from non-OEM kit only roughly follows the curves, consequently popping out and needing RTV gasket maker to keep it in place. I would much rather avoid that, as is a major hassle. So if I could buy OEM & avoid that it would certainly be worth the extra cost.

[@hardlymovingpro]

No ... it's not a OEM gasket. Using RTV does make the seal last longer.

[@ankersman]

@@hardlymovingpro OK thanks. I'm trying to avoid packing the gasket groove with mass amounts of RTV to keep the gasket in which I've seen some you tubers do but shouldn't be necessary looking at your video. Totally agree though with RTV on top side of housing.

[@dw4940]

Would a oil stop leak product such as blue devil work to stop this leak?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. The gasket seal hardens and looses its sealing properties.

[@MattJonesYT]

If you use RTV on the seal won't that bond it all together and make it very hard to remove next time?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not really. You can gently pry the pump cover off with a small pry tool or screw driver. RTV is a sealant ... not a glue.

[@Jake-im2lv]

Probably won't have to come off for another 20 years anyway

[@trent8546]

Actually it's very easy to remove

[@cole_butter]

is this just gonna fix leaks or do you think this may fix a low oil pressure light?

[@cole_butter]

my light just came on but it’s only around idle and shuts off pretty quick

[@hardlymovingpro]

Also check your voltage output via a voltage plug in adapter.

[@mutalechanda4772]

Had that part of the oil pump removed and corrected due to a leak and now I'm getting a grinding sound on cold start up from the oil pump area that last for about a minute and slowly disappears as the engine warms up. The sound is gone by the time I reach operating temperature. Is there something that wasn't put right? That sound was never there before....

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's either your timing belt tensioner or idler pulleys. I assume when the pump was fixed, the repair shop didn't replace any timing belt components? The noise is from worn bearings. It goes away as bearing grease starts to work their way into the bearings. Still needs to be replaced. If not replaced, the belt will eventually snap.

[@mutalechanda4772]

@@hardlymovingpro thank you very much for the information. Wow, I'll have it checked before I potentially become stranded.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@mutalechanda4772 Stupid that the mechanic fixed the leak but didn't replace the timing belt and bearings. Would have added less than 15 minutes of labor time. Also belt replacement kits are around less than $100. I would have replaced the water pump too ... another 30 minutes of work. Maybe he just wants repeat repair business from you.

[@pirihern9329]

1999 toyota rav4 same engine. Did the timing belt with related overlooked this. Do have oil leak

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yup. That could mess up your day ... like "wait a second ... I just replaced the cam and crank seals ... why's there still oil leaking?".

[@chrissizemore745]

& u thk that rtv could get moved threwout the motor?since its an oilpump

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not if it's thoroughly dry before starting the engine.

[@RAFAEL199O]

Is that oil pump shared with the 2.2 L Toyota Camry from 96?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes ... the engine designation is 5SFE or 3SFE

[@gokomets77]

Mine has appeared to have failed after only 128,000 miles and had the timing belt replaced just 8 months ago. Wish I had this gasket replaced the same time as the timing belt as now it has be torn down again to replace it! So could be an addtional $300 to 400 labor!

[@hardlymovingpro]

The pump seal replacement should be part of a timing belt replacement job.

[@B3ASTLYPLAYZ]

To replace the entire pump not just that piece do you have to drop oil pan

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes.

[@Halfcast365]

is there a reason for the arrows needing to line up. im overhauling a 1kz and the driven rotor fell out when i removed the casing from the block the driven rotor clearly has a triangular indication mark on it but the stationary gear does not

[@hardlymovingpro]

I use to think the arrows needed aligning but don't think it matters anymore.

[@Halfcast365]

@@hardlymovingpro I checked with the local engine reconditioners here and they informed me that the arrows don't need to be aligned on the driven rotor. Must be some type of factory instalment indicator. The driven rotor measures the same all around the lobes

[@hardlymovingpro]

Makes sense.

[@Halfcast365]

@@hardlymovingpro one last thing. Iv installed new Pistons and rings aswel as a brandnew head. What oil do you recommend to break in engine

[@hardlymovingpro]

Conventional (non synthetic) for the first 3000 miles or oil change. And also change out just the oil filter after first 500 miles.

[@TAKIZAWAYAMASHITA]

Ok i have this 4cly engine in my 2000 Toyota Camry and the idler pulley broke the bolt sheered off in the hole. Does it bolt into the oil pump or some other part?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Don't recall but I do believe it goes through the oil pump housing through to the engine block. Once you get the housing off, there should be enough of the bolt stud remaining to use a stud removal tool.

[@anonymike8280]

@@hardlymovingpro The idler bolt screws in adjacent to the upper corner of the oil pump in the direction of the front of the car. Look at a good picture of the housing (The Ebay ads have good pictures) and you will see near the top of the housing or cover a little round iron thing. This is where the idler bolt screws in. If the idler bolt breaks, and that's what I'm dealing with right now, you can pop out the little iron thing with a screwdriver or chisel point and extract the broken bolt. It is supposed to pop back in. If it doesn't go in tight, I'll just have to go to the wrecking yard and get another cover one off of an old Toyota. My plan is to use some red stuff to hold it in. I'm not going to pull the cover if I can help it. My thought is, if you have to swap the cover, if the original gasket it damaged, cut it away and replace the front part with silicon. Good silicon. I can't say what kind. I'm not going to research it unless I have to do it. Be ready to dismount the pickup tube if you have to R&R the cover. I'm convinced the idler bolt broke because whoever changed the timing belt did not torque it properly. I can see how either over or under torque could make it break. The whole thing is a mess of over- and under- torqued bolts. The crankshaft pulley was way overtorqued, maybe 150 foot-pounds or more compared to the necessary 80 foot-pounds. The water pump bolts were loose and the water pump was leaking because of that. It had new parts. I'm going to change all the seals and gaskets though. And torque every bolt correctly. If the job is done completely and correctly and good parts are used, having any problems with the water pump, oil leaks, the idler or tensioner, or the belt itself are very unlikely even at 100,000 miles. The Gates guide gives the timing belt interval at 90K miles for the 2.2L Camry and 100K miles for the 2.2L Solara. I don't quite get it. Same engine.

[@hardlymovingpro]

The belt service interval can vary based on the quality of the tensioner and idler pulleys. It's not that the belt goes bad but rather the bearings. Worn bearings wobble eventually stressing the belt and causing it to snap. Also too much slack in the belt after belt replacement can snap the belt. Your sheared bolt was most likely caused by the bolt being cross threaded in with high torque.

[@TAKIZAWAYAMASHITA]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. Well the car has been fixed I had to get an aluminum welder to remove the sheered bolt from the engine block. That was a pain in the ass. Then went to a toyota dealer for all new parts

[@anonymike8280]

@@hardlymovingpro I'm dealing with a broken idler pulley bolt right now. I suspect the cause was either overtorque or undertorque. I can see either one causing the bolt to break. I've worked on two 2.2L Camry. I don't think it is possible to cross thread the idler or tensioner bolt. You start them by hand. The whole timing belt system is a mess of under- and over- torqued bolts. The parts themselves are good as far as I can tell.

[@Voyager_666]

Hi, I hope you see this, I have just replaced the gasket yesterday and I saw the arrow on the shaft, but I did not pay much attention to it, I know I was wrong, but I thought that the shaft teeth are symmetrical and it was moving freely so no need to pay attention. However, I replaced the gasket, put seal from tube, and everything was okay. I ran the car and everything went okay. And today I found out that some of the leaking was coming from the oil pan gasket "apparently, I am not 100% sure yet, I'll double check", or, maybe I did something wrong in replacing the gasket and the two ring gaskets, even though no oil was coming down from that direction. So my question is, if I did not put the shaft arrow in the right direction, will it affect anything? Should I, again, redo everything just to align the arrows?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I don't believe the arrow alignment is a problem. Try tightening the 10mm bolts on the oil pan. They get loose with age as the pan gasket shrinks.

[@Voyager_666]

@@hardlymovingpro Fortunately, I haven't yet removed the pan, I have just came home from work so thanks for the tip. I will first get a nap and will tight them later. I am concerned however about the hidden bolts under "above" the exhausting pipe, for I don't think I would be able to reach those, but I will try anyways. All in all, thank you so much for all the information you provide and I wish you a good evening.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@tacos1071]

I took off the oil pump but there is no arrow on the gear that stayed on the block. How would I like that up??

[@tacos1071]

Line

[@hardlymovingpro]

Believe some don't have it but not that concerning. The hard part is getting the base of the pump pulley shaft to seat inside the inner housing hole. Just keep keep rotating the pulley shaft while pushing against the outer housing. It'll eventually snap in place and there should be no gap between the outer and inner housing.

[@MrAvlandrew]

do i need to drain oil first?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not at all.

[@MrAvlandrew]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks! doing this today 👍

[@linlaobei1]

Is there any difference between V4 and V6 on this?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Completely different.

[@linlaobei1]

@@hardlymovingproWould you please tell me if you have the video of Toyota V6 (oil pump replacement)?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I never replaced a V6 1MZ-FE engine oil pump. Quite involved. Start by replacing the oil pressure sensor. That may be sending a false signal.

[@nojokeauto]

those oil pump timing marks are sketchy as hell ..

[@hardlymovingpro]

No timing marks on the oil pump for mounting the timing belt

[@SwervingLemon]

Since you have to drop the oil pan to do that job properly anyway and the pump costs only slightly more than the seals and because time is money... I always just replace the oil pump. And since I'm in there anyway, the timing belt, idler, tensioner, power steering belt and water pump as well. No sense doing what's essentially the same job three times.

[@hardlymovingpro]

No ... you don't have to drop the oil pan. The oil pan is not bolted to the oil pump cover. A new oil pump is not slightly more than the oil pump gasket and seals (around $10 vs $100 +). But if you do want to drop the oil pan, you'll have to remove the exhaust down pipe as well to get the clearance. And if you want to remove the down pipe, get ready to remove exhaust flange bolts that are rusted and will need to be replaced. Also, this video is an addendum to a timing belt replacement.

[@stevejette2329]

Why use "dielectric grease" on a seal ? It's not electric.

[@hardlymovingpro]

To reduce friction during installation. Dielectric grease is also called silicone and plumber's grease. It will not allow rubber components to swell like petroleum based grease, stays on the contact surface for a long time and provides a barrier to electrical flow.