No one likes rust. What's your favorite method? DIY or send it out?
@iancarpenter23343 жыл бұрын
Hey Tom , the only thing I think you left out is MURIATIC ACID , I love it for cleaning steel oil pans and tanks . From 20 min to 6 hours of soaking .
@MIKEH.7773 жыл бұрын
DIY for me
@frasertones85192 жыл бұрын
Wet blasting. Fast and no heat.
@ricardotorres96882 жыл бұрын
@@iancarpenter2334 but how much expensive is it? And how it works?
@iancarpenter23342 жыл бұрын
@@ricardotorres9688 In the usa muriatic acid is about $30 gallon, it is best known for cleaning swimming pools , home depot , lowes
@TotallyNotRoo7 ай бұрын
I’m quite late, but I’m trying to learn a lot about classic cars, how to fix them up, and how to maintain them. This video was very helpful. Thank you! ❤️
@GarageTimeAutoResto7 ай бұрын
Welcome aboard!
@williamcharles94803 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. I've also had good success with Evap-o-rust on small submersible parts. There's one thing to consider with this battle against rust though. You need to determine how long you want your repair to last; a lifetime or for as long as you are going to use the vehicle. It's a choice that one has to make as to the level of restoration you desire. Some prefer perfection, others wish to enjoy the driving experience. Wishing you success in your future projects.
@borisgaming4473Ай бұрын
Thank you very much, soon i am starting to work on my old Ford Zephyr and these tips are a gem! Peace
@GarageTimeAutoRestoАй бұрын
Very cool, be safe👍
@LaughOutLouie883 жыл бұрын
Came here to learn to remove rust spots on my car and I came out a new man. Lol. Rust removal 101. Thank you for this very detailed rust knowledge filled video. Wow.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Great to hear. Keep that rust at bay!
@krobak47 Жыл бұрын
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this video. Im sure the process alone is super time consuming but to video and edit the whole thing is amazing. I also really enjoy that you are showing real world rust removal for the average DIY guy and not some unrealistic high dollar setup that most perople wont have. Solid work man!
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
Thanks Kip, I'm just a regular car guy.
@MIKEH.7773 жыл бұрын
You said you don't have the equipment but you sure do get the job done, thanks for sharing and God Bless you
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
When there is a will there's a way. In this video I tried to show many options, but I have my go-to favorites.
@vin91143 жыл бұрын
Hi Tom, I've been following you since the beginning of your 911 project. I love it. Nice job on the engine tin. Evoporust has jell version that you can apply with a brush for large pieces. I've tried it and it works great. Just rinse with water when done. By the way, over here in Massachusetts that's not rust. That's "MINT" condition.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Cool, I've heard of that. Or people who cover with towels and stuff. Good to know that works! Thanks for watching!
@paulmanhart4481 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this info. Good very video. One suggestion for those pits is to use Evaporust jelly. Difficult to work with but you can brush it in. I’ve also had success using Evaporust soaked in paper towels and covered with cellophane. It prevents evaporation. I used this method on my planer and jointer tables that were rusty from sitting for 10 years. You can also spot brush Evaporust into the pits and cover with cellophane.
@leeroy64813 жыл бұрын
Hand Tool Rescue’s favorite rust remover!
@danwood10473 жыл бұрын
Nice work, Tom. Informative as usual. Electrolysis is obviously the way to go for removable parts.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Agree. Faster and cheaper than Evaporust.
@wolfkin733 жыл бұрын
I'm late to the party. I have had great results with electrolysis buy you have to remember it will only remove rust between the anode and cathode area. If the part has a complex shape it can be difficult to use. Often moving everything around to get good coverage.
@daniellachance97303 жыл бұрын
I favor electrolysis. I usually leave it in longer and remove the residue with a wire brush then due electrolysis on it again then rust convert it. Puddy the ruff surfaces primer and paint. Seems to work well for me. Great channel!.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, this is good advice. I have experimented with putting things back in the electrolysis bath after brushing and it keep getting better. I've also left things in the bath overnight and it does keep working. On the part in this video, I didn't use any filler on the pits, but probably should have. They are still visible in the paint.
@ekkiseisenwerk2603 жыл бұрын
Electrolysis looks very nice, like to try out myself. Thanks a lot
@marionfisk79263 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom, showing all the methods of rust removing it all depends on how much money and how big of a budget you have for the equipment you need. I had access to a sandblasting cabinet and a big air compressor at one time and that worked excellent for small parts. now here at home in the garage working on my 911 I don’t have a sandblasting cabinet and I don’t have an air compressor yet I’ve been using evaporate rust on the small parts with a wire wheel. And I purchased some epoxy primer paint and borrowed a friends air compressor to spray paint my small parts with the Epoxy primer which I believe is the best.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Glad you are back at it Marion! Epoxy primer IS the best!
@Dave_Boyer3 жыл бұрын
I stripped the majority of my Model A body panels with Molasses. I didn’t believe it when I read about it, but for $25 worth of feed grade molasses and a big stainless steel tub, I soaked the parts for a couple days, and it was amazing how it removed the rust. Other than the smell, it worked amazing!
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Wow, first time I heard of this one. Awesome!
@aviatorblc3 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I, too, have been using molasses for about 12 or 13 years. If you're not on a tight time sked (there's no flight schedule on my office wall these days) molasses is the best for getting ALL of the rust out, in my experience. Good to know I'm not the only one using it.
@izoyt2 жыл бұрын
@@aviatorblc wow, sound great. can you describe the procedure a bit more? thnx
@aviatorblc2 жыл бұрын
@@izoyt , the suggested ratio of molasses to water is 1 part molasses, 9 parts water. I've always mixed mine a little stronger than that because I assumed that would hurry the process. Maybe, maybe not. First time I tried it, I had put a couple of sticks of black pipe outside behind the building where they lay for a couple of years. Black pipe rusts up like nobody's business, so I sliced a couple of 1" rings off one end (this was 2-1/2" pipe), put it in a coffee tub with about a 5 to 1 mix (water to molasses), and let it soak for a couple of weeks, perhaps a bit longer. When I pulled them out and rinsed them off, they were both this lovely, gray bare metal, even where there had been a bit of pitting. Can't knock success, imo. Hope it works for you.
@ToddMcF2002 Жыл бұрын
Great video! Just FYI I believe POR15 is an encapsulator not a converter. Rust Bullet is another version of an encapsulator. They try to deny water/air to the metal / rust. Its a good idea for pits that you may not have fully cleaned. My favorite place to use it is on interior floor pans that have pitting. I wouldn't try it under exterior paint either!
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I'm not a fan of por-15. It over-hardens and cracks with time. Then moisture gets underneath it.
@TheChrisey2 жыл бұрын
I've done a ton of experimenting with various methods. Parts that can be taken off and soaked are easy. I bought an entire garbage bin, filled it with hydrochloric acid mixed with water, and then another bin with water and baking soda. I first take off all the surface rust as much as possible with a wire wheel to make the process smoother, then soak it in the acid for a day, then right away over to the bin with the baking soda for 10 or so minutes, dry it with a blow torch and finally brush on a solution of phosphoric acid to remove any surface rust. I would dip it in phosphoric acid straight away but I can't get hold of any larger quantities without having to order it online. Wire wheeling off all the rust for parts that are on the car is much more difficult, but you need a good wire wheel with very solid and rough strains that doesn't fold and can cut into the hard crusty rust. Flap discs work in some areas but not really good on sheet metal since it can burn through. You need something that is hard enough to cut into the rust but soft enough to follow the shape
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
Thanks and this all sounds similar to my own experiences. My personal preference is electrolysis bath over an acid bath. Not trying to start a war because everyone's different. Here's my reasons for electrolysis: Electrolysis is cheaper than acid and it doesn't need to be neutralized. The black film left over actually prevents flash rust to some degree. Only one tub and about a cup of washing soda. The anodes are consumable, but cheap sheet metal scraps.
@c123bthunderpig3 жыл бұрын
Good video, best part was being able to see how all five techniques worked on the same piece.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, and this piece is now on my driving car! No issues yet😄
@1ocean5153 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom. That had to take a bit to stitch together. Good information! Never tried electrolysis. Always used wire wheels, and for the tough to reach stuff, converter. 👍👍
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, it did take a few days to film and edit this one. Was supposed to be short, but they never are, ha ha.
@parrotraiser65413 жыл бұрын
Other channels have suggested that the problem with sand-blasting is that there's always sand left around the part, which inevitably shows up on the paint coat, no matter how thoroughly you attempt to remove it. Using dry ice as the material doesn't present that problem, but obviously would be tricky for DIY.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Sand is messy for sure and cleanliness really matters. However if pitted metal shows through the paint later this can be caused by the wildly different paint thickness. Paint or filler will shrink differently and proportional robots thickness. So iv the pitted surface is uneven then that might be the problem too.
@harrischroeder67633 жыл бұрын
dry ice don´t remove rust
@ingeniousmechanic6 ай бұрын
Pretty good tutorial/comparison for hobbyists.
@supercomp70783 жыл бұрын
I like that little spot blaster, I need one of those, combine with a rust treatment and etch or epoxy prime
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
I like it too and it makes total sense to combine a few methods where needed.👍
@foreignfern3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this helpful information. May you hit KZbin stardom and be rich beyond your wildest dreams.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
You're welcome 😄 Thanks for the kind words.
@DoubleRRestorations3 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom. I agree with your methods. Great info. I'm also not a fan of the por15. For the small stuff, you just can beat a blast cabinet.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Hey Russ! I do like blasting for painted parts, but I don't like it for aluminum parts or things that get plated. It changes the appearance too much. Or if the sand is too fine then it doesn't get the rust.
@1wide91113 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Glass beads on aluminum. Makes it look like new.
@grantroberts42313 жыл бұрын
Happy Birthday Tom! great content as always. keep up the good work!
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! It was a cheesecake kind of night with the fam.
@matlecomte3 жыл бұрын
Tom, I am surprised you have not 'invested' in a small benchtop blasting cabinet by now and with that huge compressor you have. I have one loaded with medium size glass beads and it is a life saver for all smaller parts that need cleaning, the glass bead don't attack the metal and leave a nice peened surface. The glass bead seems to last a while if you clean the parts before blasting and the cabinets are usually in the 150-200$ range. You would not have fit the back tin (which you probably know but is specific to a 1968 912 - brackets on left with the holes are for the smog pump), but would have worked for many other parts.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
I have access to one at the community workshop that I belong to. That's why I don't have one at home I actually sold it! I use the workshop one occasionally.
@rossjennings573510 ай бұрын
Dustless blasting will have that part looking new and cost less than those chemicals and labor effort
@erichwise77342 жыл бұрын
I have found a 30L sonic cleaner does a great job as well, just have to make sure to not let flash rust once its out of the tank.
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
What solution do you put in your ultrasonic cleaner to derust?
@erichwise77342 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto it works with anything, Ive used water with a small amount of dawn dish soap, you just have to stop flash rust afterward and dry it quickly, but it works quite well.
@erichwise77342 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I haven’t tried it yet but i imagine a mix with vinegar would work even better
@leslietardif46872 жыл бұрын
I noticed you mentioned Vapor honing. I made one out of a sump pump and various parts. A lot of videos on it but it took a lot of guess work. I’m going to buy a 356 project soon and I feel that it’s a must to use it on aluminum like that transmission project you have. It makes the aluminum look like new without harming it. I can imagine what it can do on a engine case. I have made carburetors look like new with almost no effort. It was worth building it and I know you can build one. I live close by in Diamond bar would like to show you what I did if you are interested. Thanks, Andre Tardif
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
Cool, I'd love to see you vapor honing setup sometime. I do have concerns about changing the texture though. It's only original once.
@leslietardif46872 жыл бұрын
I felt the same about hurting the parts. The texture of a part and lettering of it. If you use the finest glass media it doesn’t. It has a cleaning effect. Removing oxidation on aluminum. I don’t like acid products like wheel cleaner because the outcome isn’t always the same and can be blotchy and uneven. It works and I have done it before. The vapor blasting doesn’t hurt good plastic or rubber. The media is suspended in the water and the water is the bearer between the media and the part. I have thrown a couple of scoops of baking soda in the mixture and not sure if it help but what the heck baking soda does clean things.. I’m shocked on how well it works. Vapor blasting has been around for a long time and has been used in aircraft in WW2 to clean delicate parts. If you like I can do a small part for you to see and show you how I built it. If I can build it so can you Regards Andre 951-533-1876
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
Very cool, I'll call you this weekend
@mikekerker74662 жыл бұрын
Tom- as I understand it from their literature, EvapoRust is a chelating agent that is formulated to attach to iron oxide.
@barrywl012 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom. Thanks much.
@carl545marchbanks43 жыл бұрын
Good save on that piece😀
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, I've see worse
@shinobi5u5h183 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the info i bought an 85 sura and has minor rust was looking for the best way to remove it before paint
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Cool, best of luck! Are strip it discs available bin your area?
@ironhornforge3 жыл бұрын
The black that the converter goes on the metal is ferric phosphate and is an inert layer that won't react, it's not rust at that stage once it goes black. However it only reacts within a few microns so if you don't clean most of the rust off it will not penetrate deep and the rust will return. So basically use multiple methods, start with electrolysis, then wire wheel, clean the metal then use a converter which will seal any missed rust and react with it, wipe clean with water, dry then prepsol and finally etch primer.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Agree 100%. This is what I do except epoxy primer versus etch primer. On this part, I didn't primer because it's an engine part, but I prefer epoxy.
@ironhornforge3 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto epoxy is perfect too. You run a great Chanel, hats off
@1toolaholic3 жыл бұрын
agree, had good luck this way
@timsexton Жыл бұрын
I think electrolysis will serve my needs best. No worry with disposal of noxious chemicals. Thanks for the demonstration video. *_TRUST !!_*
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
Cool, it's pretty safe. Be careful that hydrogen doesn't accumulate.
@rodneynelson38623 жыл бұрын
Hi Tom, great video, Hopefully this one goes viral! I wanted to let you know that I have been using a product from Eastwood called Fast Etch. I think it is similar to metal conditioner but I have not verified. What I like about Fast Etch is that it seems to put a coating on the metal and actually prevents rust from forming. I have been using Fast Etch as my last step before primer. Before I'm ready to primer an area, and I have all visible rust gone I apply the Fast Etch kind of like my last line of defense hopefully taking care of minute surface rust. I work it in with a maroon scotchbrite pad and then I wipe it all off with a towel. And do a final clean with Acetone. Then I do the primer. Maybe I should be using the wax and grease remover instead of the acetone? Or after I use Acetone? Anyway, you may want to evaluate the fast etch if you need to buy anymore metal conditioner.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Sounds like a very similar product. Re-wetting and wiping it off is a good call before paint. SPI says not to prime over the white residue. Not sure if you are using SPI also? Acetone should work well. SPI recommend their w&g cleaner... no surprise.
@franckn83383 жыл бұрын
Good. Sand blasting could be the best way to erase the rust. Nevertheless, in France, we have something like evaporust we can find in Restom brand, and metal brush on drilling machin, and sand discs. But after the metal is clean, I put quickly PHO from Restom, à phosphate acid liquide, with a piece of cloth to prevent the metal from the rust, that create an oxyde that protects the steel, and also Increase the grip of the paint. I use epoxy primer on thin metal sheet and black epoxy for other parts directly over the treated steel surfaces. Nevertheless, removing the rust always needs tools, lot of time and self-sacrifice. Californian weather is also better to avoid that the rust comes back, than the weather in Paris, that is also truth!
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
California cars are lucky to last longer if they are well taken of. It seems every epoxy primer manufacturer recommends something a little different. The manufacturer that I used explicitly states not to prime over the phosphate coating. Others I've heard it's ok, but probably doesn't increase adhesion. You probably have better materials in France than we do in California. Thanks for sharing your experience from the other the other side of the pond!
@franckn83383 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto hi Tom, you are totally right, epoxy paint doesn't need a primer paint, but here is a clear liquid (as fluid as water!) not a paint primer. I put on a cloth directly (like I put acetone for example) and I spread it out the clean steel. I treated some sand blasted parts (from my Simca 1000) with this liquid, and stocked them in my father's barn in normandy for about 8 or 10 years without any kind of paint, and the parts were still clean after all that time, like the first day! Amazing. Good bye to your family and protect yourself well.
@dra9113 жыл бұрын
Vinegar works well, if you're patient - I typically dunk a piece in a sealed bucket for a week or two. Hard to beat the price. A product called "DR X" works very well too if you're not into waiting for results. Cringey marketing aside, it really works, but it's costly to get where I am.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks good tips. Haven't heard of Dr X yet.
@The9meister11 ай бұрын
I use por15 metal ready, and then marine clean after I have prepared the bare metal , ideal before 2k epoxy primer to seal it off.
@GarageTimeAutoResto11 ай бұрын
That cleaner is good stuff from POR-15. Their paints suck though.
@stevenhale71473 жыл бұрын
Thanks I learned something
@pyrogenusa3 жыл бұрын
Tom. On the pits, I use a fordom or dremmel and a fine carbide burr to brighten each pit. Also I found carbide dentist drills on eBay for a couple bucks for 5-10 to the box. They work super but it takes a lot time. On old 356's after we get the paint off, I use a Aspho Formic acid to highlight the pits, then grind them off. Hoods and fenders have allot of old rock chips they will have fine rust pits. It's just as good as a spot blaster and much less clean up. Nice job on the tins.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks John. Good tips, but now my teeth hurt, ha ha. We are in alignment about using acids to spot rust. Same chemical different name.
@stricht82 жыл бұрын
Have you tried naval jelly? It’s my favorite method but not great for huge parts.
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
Yes Ive tried Naval jelly and it does work well. The important thing with naval Jelly is to make sure it's neutralized before paint or it can bite you back in a few years.
@walterkucharski47903 жыл бұрын
I'd like to know more about the electrolysis . What's the anode and cathode made of surface area etc. Thanks. Good video!
@sergiusabo3 жыл бұрын
It is mostly experimental, electrolysis is very forgiving regarding the setup. The cathode is the part you want to clean, the anode can be pretty much anything conductive, maybe with the exception of stainless steel, doesn't matter much as it'll corrode anyway sooner or later. The bigger the surface area and the more soda you have in the water the faster it will work and the amperage it will draw, depends how big you power supply is...
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
I agree with everything Sergio said. I try to limit the current to 3A by reducing the anode area or reducing the soda concentration. The anodes are consumable and get gunked up, so don't spend time making nice ones. I used two, but one will work if rotate the part. No chromium on the anodes as it can be toxic. Don't let the part touch the anodes.
@walterkucharski47903 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Ok but what is the anode made of? Thanks
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Mild steel sheet metal
@sys2 Жыл бұрын
Dont know if its a problem in these parts but eletrolisys can give hydrogen embrittlement, that can make parts crack and bend more easily .. maybe something to watch out for in cars? =)
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
Embrittlement is more of a problem in high strength alloys. Mild sheet metal won't be affected much.
@sys2 Жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoRestoAh ok =) well then its all good =) been warned alot on the net about that when it comes to electrolisys =) but great if its not a problem with mild steel =)
@FJLC932 ай бұрын
What epoxy primer do you recommend for exterior components? Thanks!
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 ай бұрын
SPI is great for hobby DIY'ers like me
@kennedymasilin26903 жыл бұрын
hai there... thanks for the time and upload.. nice info.. How do you remove old car paint with rust before pouring new car paint? any suggestion?
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
I made a video about stripping paint too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXvWeGOPjNKmkM0
@kennedymasilin26903 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you soo much.. already like and sub Rice to your channel👍👍👍
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Welcome here😎
@jockellis3 жыл бұрын
This was great! Is that a polycarbonate wheel used after the wire wheel vs electrolysis competition?
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Not sure how they are made, but they are like a stiff coral material. Called strip it discs. I'm pretty sure I linked to the ebay guy that I buy mine from. Hard to find in large sizes.
@tombond90323 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, Tom. You had a nice weld on that sheetmetal, what kind of welder is that?
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks,. I'm a big fan of TIG welding for thin sheet metal. Check out Miller diversion 180
@pedrokim74352 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom, What type-grade of sand you use? Thanks
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Pedro,. I use genuine Huntington Beach sand. It's not recommended for blasting, but I strain it through a perforated sheet metal. Wear a respirator if you do a lot because it's not good for your lungs. Otherwise, I'd goto harbor freight and get their corse sand.
@vincentiacouzze2786 Жыл бұрын
I use to use a good glass Bead machine.
@KeithProctorArtist7 ай бұрын
CHEERS
@thedude46323 жыл бұрын
If you can find it a product called Ospo Will works wonders for killing rust and preventing its returning. I learned of this when I hung around the piers during shrinking season in Miss. these guys used it . I have been using it on my car resto projects for 30t years . I have one car I started on stored in an shed , metal was completely cleaned then ospo was applied there is no rust after all these years, one of these years I plan to paint that car !
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Awesome, the metal conditioner I used has the same primary ingredient osphoric acid plus some zinc phosphate to prevent flash rust. I think ospho is a brand which is much less expensive than the dupont version. Both are great.
@aviatorblc3 жыл бұрын
Where do you find Ospo?
@thedude46323 жыл бұрын
@@aviatorblc sometimes they will ship it to you but the hazmat charge makes it way expensive. I get it at mfa farm supply, tractor supply may have it . Been using it for years . Read the directions , a gallon goes am l o n g way , use it in a spray bottle ,do not get on concrete
@aviatorblc3 жыл бұрын
@@thedude4632 good info. Thanks a million.
@charleswhitfield89152 жыл бұрын
Hi Tom - can you use the electrolysis method for parts with some yellow chromate plating still remaining or will it strip the plating also?
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
I don't think it will remove the plating, but I haven't tried it myself. I know it doesn't remove paint.
@tunichtgut52853 жыл бұрын
DuPont Metal prep probably contains tannin - its reaction products with rust are black. I don't think it can do much to the rust because it is such a weak acid. I like citric acid for rust removal because it is cheap, fairly safe to use and stronger than vinegar. And most of all it does not stink.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing. I believe the dupont uses Ospho acid, but not sure how strong. Dupont adds chemicals to prevent flash rust and ensure paint adhesion. When you use straight acid, you must make sure it's neutralized properly or it may affect the paint years later. That is why I recommended a product that is engineered to work with paint. Oddly enough they recommend rinsing it off with water. Muriatic acid or swimming pool acid is also cheap and strong, but boy that metal will rust again in a hurry.
@tunichtgut52853 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Yes it is very important to neutralize the acid because hydrogen bubbles will form under the pain and eventually crack it. I usually put the parts in a container with washing soda for a day, then rinse them off and blow them dry with compressed air. Citric acid does not attack iron as much as muriatic acid - it usually takes some days until rust showes up again. Sandblasted surfaces are much worse.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Great, thanks for sharing process. Seems like a good one!
@Srulio3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this. Rust converter is a chemical process that transforms the ferrous oxide into another chemical. SO you don't have remove the black residue. That inert black stuff is the sign that you have completed the mission. Maybe a DIY wooden frame during mechanical processes would be an assurance against warping risk,
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
The problem with leaving the ferrous oxide is that most often there is rust underneath it. That is why I prefer to keep going until nothing turns black.
@AtypicalDriver Жыл бұрын
What about a piece that you aren't going to repaint and you want to just slow the rust spread? My car has some patina and planning to leave it that way but have noticed some rust bubbles at the bottom of the door. If I remove the door card, should I treat it with a particular product to slow the process?
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
You can spray cavity wax on the doors interior. If you have bubbles through the paint, then significant damage has already begun. You are most likely looking at cutting out and replacing metal in your future.
@AtypicalDriver Жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thank you! I'll check that out. Yeah, I'm going to avoid proper repair for as long as possible because given the originality of the car, if I fix one spot I'm going to end up having to do the entire thing or else it'll look weird to have just one repainted section.
@GarageTimeAutoResto Жыл бұрын
Good choice. Enjoy the car now before you go and fix all the patina. That is what I did with my 356. Owned it for more than 25 years now. I developed a bond and now will never sell it.
@toddatstone_city_outlaw87143 жыл бұрын
Tom, You like doing this so much, do you want to come over? I have some work for you to do. LOL ;)
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Maybe, I'm running out of rusty parts! What will I do?
@toddatstone_city_outlaw87143 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto lol
@Hangin_With_Shane3 жыл бұрын
Great content and tips Tom!
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
See you next month?
@Hangin_With_Shane3 жыл бұрын
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Absolutely, I will be able to update you on everything this weekend and workout some details!
@phemmeke3 жыл бұрын
I would have thought you would use Rust911.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
I like the name😄
@ricardotorres96882 жыл бұрын
Tow questions. 1. What kind of welding you used on this video 2. What classic car do you have in your garage XD looks like a big block
@pangeia10103 жыл бұрын
faz um mingau de amido de milho com vinagre e duas colheres de óleo cozinha que da certo..
@jahsurhofjudah6053 Жыл бұрын
OK NO MAGIC BUT THANKS ANYWAY:
@82werk723 жыл бұрын
DryIce blast.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
$$$$
@nemoyuno16273 жыл бұрын
Black iron oxide is not rust. It is similar to gun bluing and the same as is found on machine grade hardware. It is chemically bonded to the steel and forms a protective coating. Just scrub it clean.
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
True, but can you paint over it with the same adhesion?
@massivefins25973 жыл бұрын
por15 is garbage, yes
@GarageTimeAutoResto3 жыл бұрын
Well you could paint a trash can with it
@Dixler6832 жыл бұрын
Massive fin, yes por-15 is garbage for those who do not know how to use it.
@massivefins25972 жыл бұрын
@@Dixler683 lol if i wanted to use something like this i use rust bullet, real pros dont use por 15 sh*t only backyard hillbillies... I also like the wurth products..
@Dixler6832 жыл бұрын
@@massivefins2597 thanks for you input. Por-15 is great if you follow all the directions. Rust bullet is a superior product and more forgiving. I have been doing this professionally since the late 70’s and specialize in 50’s style fin cars. Seems like you have a fin up your ass. PS. The chemicals in por-15 are the same as in rust bullet. A former employee for por left and started his own company to produce a better product and he succeeded. What do you have against hillbillies?
@terrythomas7902 жыл бұрын
Its Poor-15
@joesabal12122 жыл бұрын
Why bother with mechanics, Just use a sand blaster with glass beads as ur media.
@GarageTimeAutoResto2 жыл бұрын
I love glass media blasting, but it's messy and gets inside hidden cavities. This sand holds water and then bam more rust.
@chipsimkulet57613 жыл бұрын
The selective lunchroom perinatally need because mist intraorally found before a second leopard. sour, roasted diving