Which Hole for the Top Link & What is Draft Control?

[@darrelfuhrman8217]

I have a Ford NAA, it has 3 holes. Brush cutter in the top hole, cutter lifts up level, but has the shortest height, because of PTO clearance. The bottom hole gives the highest lift, due to PTO clearance. With back blade, bottom hole gives more dumping clearance. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.

[@PKBees]

This a topic that I've never had explained. Thanks for this video!

[@m16ty]

You did a pretty good basic explanation of draft control, other than on a top link sensing draft control that draft load is actually pushing on the top link during high draft loads (not pulling as you stated). Your lower links are actually doing the pulling and acting as a fulcrum, and causing the pulling force to actually push on the top link and top link bracket. Then there is the tractors that have lower link draft sensing, which is competently different than the Massey in the video. It should also be noted, and you kind of touched on it when reading the manual, is that the lower hole you use, the higher the back of the implement will raise when you lift it. So if you want things like a bushhog to lift higher in the back during transport, use the lowest hole. It has to do with the geometry of the top link in relation to the lower links.

[@kyflyboy965]

The reason the attachment hole setup on the Massey seems to be the opposite of the other tractor is because the holes are below the tension spring. On my tractor, Ford 4000, the holes are above the spring so the highest hole gives the most leverage and feedback to the tractor.

[@asherdie]

Sounds right, first hole for light duty seeding, second hole for general plowing and the third hole we don't need to discuss, just use it when necessary. And remember it's hard on her and she my grunt a little more than usual.

[@sarahandtim332]

The different hole on top link changes the geometry of the implement lift; ie the brush hog stays level throughout the lift range use a different hole and the tail of brush hog will lift higher

[@houndsmanone4563]

S&T, this makes sense based on geometric angles on a level plain so I too used the method you described to regulate how high I wanted my rotary cutter's rear wheel off the ground. (based on geometric angles). 👍🏼 5/4/23

[@BritishBeachcomber]

My first little tractor, a Fordson Dexter, had draft control. Made in the 50s, I bought it in 93. Very advanced for its time.

[@stevemeister65]

I have draft control on my utility tractor. Like you, I am here in the Ozarks and I never have used it! Watching this video made me want to go borrow a disc and give it a try. But it probably wouldn't do much except "cling, cling, cling" on the Ozark rocks! Good video, Mike. Well done!

[@rt3box6tx74]

I figured out how draft control works in the 1980s running a 30 foot wide Samman land float, which are known as land planes in some regions. We floated land to fill in shallow depressions that were all over the prairie pastures before it became farmland. These 30-40 foot wide, depressed circles were once buffalo wallows. When ground was mould-boarded, then disked plowed they were barely visible, but we listed one foot tall beds for gravity flow, row irrigation. When irrigating furrows through a buffalo wallow, water puddled, backed up, spread out and wouldn't proceed past the small shallow circle of the one-time wallow. These wallows could also be identified by grayish soil caused by the urine the bulls marked their territory with. Pulling the land float diagonally across fields before listing up beds the float filled in these depressions that were a headache to irrigate, especially on land that was table-top level over 50 to 60 acre fields. Draft control set correctly almost dummy-proofed running this big land leveling contraption. It could be run using the power lift, but the tractor driver had to look backward 100% of the time to make sure the float wasn't digging in too deep or riding above the soil doing nothing. The float had 2 30 ft blades, a transport wheel on each side and some basic ratchet turnbuckles. In the field the front blade was set shallow with a turnbuckle on both sides and would be set at a depth to knock down the big surface clods of dirt. The rear blade was set to move dirt similar to a box blade. If not set correctly from side to side the float wouldn't pull straight behind the tractor. The float was hitched to the tractor with a small 3-point hitch similar to a draw bar with a built in rigid attachment to the turnbuckle. The blades are about a foot tall. The goal on the first pass across a field was to move enough dirt to keep it at the top of the back blade without dirt spilling over the top of the blade. The dryer the soil the better. These land floats werent designed to handle heavy digging and could easily be bent out of kilter if the operator had a lapse of attention. The initial step buried the big clods left by the mouldboard so they'd be saturated by irrigation and wouldn't pop the planter row units up when in the path of the seed slit. The second trip across the field in the opposite diagonal was when the draft control was worth its weight in gold. The first trip across packed the the ground just enough to level it with the tractor tire compaction path and eliminate tractor tire slip. On a second pass both blades would load up, and once the draft control was set properly (trial and error) it kept the depth consistent by automatically regulating load using power lift response. If set for quick response the lift arms are constantly jerking up. When you get it just right the dirt loaded on the blades will fall into depressions as you cross and gradually pick up more dirt once you have cleared the depression. About the time I figured out how to use that big float to its maximum potential, the low-tillage, minimum till, no-till phase of farming got underway and having corn stubble on top of the ground made mouldboarding, disking, floating obsolete - which necessitated center pivot sprinklers in place of row-irrigation. We save wear and tear on tractors, fuel, and spend the savings babysitting robots a.k.a. center pivot sprinklers. All the specialized equipment we needed to farm pre-robot is now acres obsolete farm equipment waiting to be scrap iron.

[@jimputnam2044]

I find the lower hole lets the brush hog or grader blade or scraper to move more freely over uneven ground. If you are trying to level ground like with a scraper blade use the top hole limits movement so takes off the high spots and props gravel or fill into the lower spots.

[@markchoate9021]

I'm like you, Mike. That Massey Ferguson manual was confusing and seemed to go counter to physics and angle. But they paid someone good money to write that, so who am I to question it.......😁 Also, that was the best explanation of Draft Control I have ever heard. Good job!!

[@Corvacar]

Please do not forget that Ferguson developed the three pt. system from scratch. As long as it held. they had a patent on it. Since They ( Ferguson ) developed it, They should more than understand it. After the Patent expired, many other Brands were quick to adopt theFerguson system. This is after several Companies tried and failed to develop a system of Their own. However, none of Them gave any credit or mention whatever of the Ferguson System.

[@FlatFifties]

I grew up on a farm and all our tractors starting with the 1955 Allis Chalmers WD45 that I operated as a kid starting when my feet could reach the pedals all had draft control. The only implement that we used that made use of the draft control was a mounted mold board plow, and later when we had bigger equipment, a semi-mounted mold board plow. I can't think of any other implement where draft control would be any use. It is possible that if you're operating a three point hitch mounted disc harrow or three point hitch mounted field cultivator that draft control might be of use not so much as depth control but rather as traction control. When the draft gets tougher then the draft control would shift some of the weight of the implement onto the rear wheels of the tractor. For mounted or semi-mounted mold board plows draft control was highly useful and desirable, especially when you're working something larger than a garden plot.

[@m16ty]

Yes, Mike gave a pretty good basic explanation of draft control, but there is a lot more to it than that. Draft control isn't so much to keep the ground engaging implement at the same depth, but to transfer the weight of the implement back to the tractor, putting more weight on the drive tires and increasing traction in hard spots. I know you mentioned disc. AC actually had what they called a "traction booster hitch" which allowed you do hookup things like a disc to the drawbar and utilize the traction booster (draft control) on drawbar draft loads.

[@douglassellers7528]

​@@m16tyI've seen that work when I was dicing with a WD.

[@littlefarmsareus]

The third hole would be used for a large heavy cultivator/Ripper. I will be putting up a video with ours later in the year.

[@bryceg5709]

Ferguson was clever. Before 3PH your draw bar pulled the plow. You raised and lowered it plow hung up you didnt raise it and the tractor would wheelie. Could even flip over. Enter the top link now the plow hangs the tractor wants to wheelie top link pushes into the tractor above the axle pushing the tracto back down. No flip. The higher the top link on the tractor the greater this effect. The lower the lesser this effect. Once you see this it becomes clear the higher the link the more the top link pushes inwards but also the more a raised implement pulls downwards. Lower point makes the implement essentially balance lower on the tractor.

[@MyClutteredGarage]

I’m thinking that each hole affects the sensitivity of the draft control, with the top hole being most sensitive and the bottom hold being least sensitive. I have never used it and this was the first explanation I’ve ever seen. Thanks Mike! -Ed

[@sarkisi]

The weight of the implement puts tension on the upper link. Too much tension could damage the sensing spring mechanism. Therefore, lower toplink hole puts less tension to the spring, because the bracket is hinged by the pin near the pto axle. Also, this particular type of bracet can be locked with a special device you can see the holes left and right of the top link bracket, they are part of the rear axle casting. The locking device is very useful with forklift, because the spring allows the top link bracket to sway a little; with the lock the lift works accurate. Also, many tractors have the draft control at the lower links, either a torsion bar or similar or an electric sensin device. Top link sensing is not suitable for the heaviest loads. I have seen top link tension break the spring plunger rod or the whole spring attachment, after driving over some bumps on the road.

[@bryceg5709]

In practice I'd say most tractors with draft are larger and most implements that are fully hung on the tractor if properly sized shouldnt harm them larger would usually have a road wheel on then for transport. But you are welcome to the loggers chain trick. Nearly all our tractors have a 2 logging chain hooks bolted up on the back you just shorten the top link hook chain there lengthen the top link and the weight is off the top link. We also use them to hook a bungie to hold up top links and to hook the lower lift arms up which is basically our jackstand for working under an implement like when I'm sharpening the flail mower I really dont like it falling on me so you crank it up hook the arms up with a chain settle it on the chain and voile no one can lean on the rear controls and squish you.

[@jakeschisler7525]

I always wondered why the 2 holes and my tractor was set up to use the top one. When I bought my LS tractor i lived in Florida and that's pretty much sand. Now live in Missouri and rocks, and never seen so many rocks in my life. For 2 years now have spent days picking up rocks from the garden. And everytime we run the tiller up comes more. I have to live with them.

[@vap0rtranz]

Your video cleared up some issues my old Ford diesel was having with a subsoiler engaging against hardpan. Ford's owner manual for my 4000 says the opposite as your setup: top hole for heavy plowing and bottom hole for light dragging. Maybe folks think a Bush hog is "heavy" but it's not heavy compared to plowing. My Ford also has position or draft control, so holding up mowers or digging down at depth. Read your owners manual just like Mike showed us. Thank you Mike!

[@tominsc9909]

Without draft control, it's about geometry. With a brush hog he probably wants to use the lowest hole so that it picks the wheel farther off the ground. With other implements you may want to pick the hole that allows the implement to stay level when lifted. The lower the top link is attached to the tractor the higher rear of the implement will be lifted.

[@bernardhacking7462]

Draft control is essential for use in heavy ground conditions requiring implements such as ploughs, rippers or chisel ploughs. When set correctly the draft sensor will automatically adjust the depth of the implement when encountering "heavy" soil conditions, which willthen allow the tractor to move freely through the soil being prepared. Draft control set correctly will also allow the tractor operator to control his machine better with both hands on the steering wheel ( without draft control the driver will have to continually adjust the implement's depth, using one hand, usually his right hand.) Regarding the different top link hole settings on the tractor, the higher the hole used, creates higher draft sensitivity. I.e. there will be more leverage on the draft sensors located, unseen, within the tractors gearbox cavity. The third issue will be that of wheel slip of the rear tyres which will cause abnormal wear of the tyres thereby costing money for replacement tyres. The fourth consideration is that of actual tyre pressures. Tractor tyres rarely require pressures exceeding 18 psi. This may cause the tyres to "bulge" slightly. This is OK as modern tubeless radial tyres are designed to do this.

[@paulkendrick69]

Mike, I purchased a Kioti RX7320 PC Tractor about two months ago and it has a cooled and heated cab which I throughly enjoy. The tractor also have these fancy features that you discussed in this video. This is the very first tractor that I have ever owned or purchased and the truth is I don’t have a Clue what I am doing with my Farm Max 84 inch tiller or my Fred Cane nine tine all purpose plow. Please keep the contents coming because it certainly is a blessing to people like me who are just getting started with these modern Hi Tech farm machines. Sincerely Paul Kendrick Douglasville Georgia

[@jamesmorrison1884]

Hello Mike draft control keeps your Implement at the same working height. When you go through a ditch it raises and lowers yes you could say pressure up or down to control that. The three holes would be from lighter to heavier and would dictate how sensitive it reacts. Great video have a great day.

[@stanw9286]

I use the draft control on my Massey 165 with a brush hog. It keeps the brush hog at the same distance from the ground as you go up or down hills/irregularities. Not perfect but it helps tremendously. Not sure how it works but my guess is that increased pressure on the top link lifts the 3-point hitch. If I hit a big rock with a plow attached it will raise the plow out of the ground.,

[@pc5569]

For a 3 hole top link with no draft control. The bottom hole with the bush hog raised the wheel end will tilt downward. The center hole the bush hog wheel end will be level. The top hole the bush hog wheel end will tip up. So it's effectively changing lift height of the rear implements. For 3 hole draft control on your utility tractor example, it is effectively changing sensitivity along with lift height. Lower hole is least sensitive and upper hole is more sensitive.

[@davidesmond3474]

The draft control system was invented by Harry Ferguson and built into his tractor the Ferguson T20 which revolutionized tractor design. The draft system not only controlled the depth at which the implement but transferred weight onto the back wheels increasing the traction on the tractor enabling a small tractor to out perform much larger tractors. The Ferguson T20 was the backbone of British agriculture for most of the'50s and it wasn't until the patent ran out that other manufacturers could incorporate it into their own machines. If properly used it enabled a small tractor ( I had an International B414) to pull a 4 furrow plough easily

[@PurpleCollarLife]

Great explanation. I get this question all the time with our Ford 8N videos.

[@michaelwillcutt2619]

Draft is also automatic leveling like landscape box . When you run over high spots it lowers implement cuts it an low area it raises attachments to fill in the low spots

[@mikerequa820]

Good video Mike!! I've heard about draft control but never had anyone explain it before. I also live in the Ozarks i only have a finish mower bush hog box blade and angle blade but have figured out that bottom hole of three on my 1626 Mahindra tractor raises my implements mainly my bush hog up where my tail wheel don't bangdy bang constantly when roadin tractor. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun

[@windsweptfarm5726]

Thanks Mike! I’ve been wanting you to cover that for a while

[@markcdeyoung3118]

If you pin your turnbuckle in the lower bottom hole like say for Bush hogging it follows the contour of uneven ground like swells a little better and it has a better broader lifting range at the tail end of the bush hog and driveshaft angle articulation stays more inline when you pick it up due to the pivot ratio the bush hog gearbox stays more directly pointed at the PTO shaft for better alignment whereas if your link was pinned to the top hole it stays on more of a level plane as you as you raise your hog ... The top link provides more stable draft control when you're pulling a plow

[@stephennoiles3344]

Thanks, Mike. Great help to us newbies on a tractor.

[@MorganOtt-ne1qj]

Late to the party, but Harry Ferguson designed to draft control, also called "load and depth" control. Thanks for explaining the extra holes on the top link hanger.

[@timziegler9358]

Good job explaining draft control! Best wishes.

[@justindavis1546]

I've seen this question come up in both tractor forums I use. "Draft" is fresher than bottled.

[@JEFFCOBB-v3k]

A rotary tiller and box blade are the most ground engaging attachments I use and I really do not see much difference between the 3 different attachment holes my tractor has except for lift height. My rototiller pto shaft can hit the body of the tiller when lifted to full height if the top link is in the bottom hole. So for me I just make sure to use the top mount hole for that attachment.

[@bendugas8632]

What about a logging winch? It's also a heavy lift and a hard drag. Where would you set the top link? Thank you Ben.

[@jerrywilhelm996]

The bottom doed allow u to lift the back end of an implement highef such as u would need for backing a tractor with implement up onto a trailer. Also think of a post hole digger.

[@douglassellers7528]

Draft control is cool. I worked for a guy when I was in school. He had MF tractors. Had weights on the front. When those tractors hit a tough spot it would cause the lift arms raise enough that try to raise the front of the tractor. That caused all that weight to be transferred to the rear wheels, would be the pivot point. It works.

[@ares657-ni2sh]

Excellent I thought I was the only one who understood that invented by Harry ferguson to allow smaller tractors pull ploughs

[@mikewatson4644]

My tractor has draft control. In the winter, I use a 3 point blade to clear snow off my gravel drive (about 3/8 mile). I set the draft control in the light position (high on the control). This keeps the blade from digging as deep in the snow and pulling the gravel off the road along with the snow. If I have a deep snow drift, I move the draft control to a heavier position so that the blade goes deeper into the snow. I hope this helps you understand how draft control can work.

[@kdegraa]

Maybe thinking about draft horses pulling a wagon when draft is referred to in relation to tractors could be useful.

[@groundcontrol2795]

Yes. Draft is always pull. The draft of a fireplace pulls air from the house and up the chimney. When firefighters pull water from a pond or a pool, that is called drafting. 🙂

[@chadsmith14]

On bigger sized tractors the draft control runs off wheel slip percentage and it runs the bottom lift arms to raise the whole plowl

[@tonyredsell3655]

Sorry Mike but you say it doesn’t matter which hole if you have no draft control but it does make a big difference. If you use a slasher (brush hog) and you use the top hole, the back of the slasher may tend to droop as you lift the implement and when you are lifting in an emergency to get the slasher off a stump you didn’t see in the grass, you might not get the slasher high enough at the rear. If you are using a 3pl fertiliser spreader or sprayer, the centre hole might be more appropriate so as you raise or lower the implement the implement will stay more level.

[@neilkratzer3182]

Most all the later tractors are electronic controlled. Alot of the olders were mechanically controlled and it works directly off the toplink. Alot of the small tractors today do not have draft control.

[@TheMonkdad]

I’ve been using tractors for about 25 years and knew nothing about this subject. Thanks.

[@larryhearell9580]

first thing with a bush hog you don't use a top link use a chain so you don't bend the 3 point frame up. Draft is leverage the closer you hook to the hinge point the less leverage and the further from the hinge point the more leverage.

[@MorganOtt-ne1qj]

I've heard of bent and broken PTO shafts because chain was used for the top link. The geometry changes very fast on uneven ground, and you have to pay more attention.

[@skotrod]

I have a post hole digger and the mounting point is made in such a way that it can only be attached to the top hole. Otherwise it will not lift above ground level. So, I guess they idiot-proofed that for me. I'll have to pay attention when I use the disk harrow.

[@stepitupmorons8704]

thanks again brother, Mike, amen,,, good stuffffff,

[@reload280]

I’ve only used draft control when pulling a plow or a deep subsoiler. Sometimes in our heavy soils the implement will really bog the tractor down and draft control can keep you moving. This is with big 150+ horsepower tractors not small compact tractors. I don’t think JD even puts draft control on their compact tractors.

[@Mr.WS6]

I have top & tilt. I'm new tractor owner. Should do videos on top and tilt setups.

[@rockinbbar]

Thanks for the video, Mike! I have a more complicated (I think) problem with the 3 point hitch on my 2 New Holland utility tractors... Recently I had to move large round bales. I have a front and rear hay spear, and in the past with different tractors, I adjusted things with the top link and position settings to lift the bales enough to get good ground clearance in the rear. The problem I'm having now, is with the new tractors. They don't lift high enough to give me good ground clearance in the rear. As high as I can get the bales, they are just barely clearing the ground. Any suggestions on how to lift higher in the rear with the 3 pt hitch? Thanks so much!

[@jamieebersole6755]

When it says use the bottom hole for extremely heavy implements I'm guessing that is to put less stress on the draft control mechanism. We had a 7ft single spindle extremely heavy brush hog and I hooked the top link in the hole closest to the spring or plunger and it actually broke the draft control mechanism

[@stevenboivin1239]

Ok so all this was very interesting, however it still does not answer my question. On my Kioti tractor, there is no draft control, but there are three holes on the tractor and most of my implements have two holes, (for the top link) If I don't have draft control . . . . what are all these holes for??? Would they be for the actual weight of the implement?

[@barney1941]

does it just allow the 3pt to rise or does it hydraulically force the 3pt lift up? i have a TYM T494 2022 i been playing with box blade landscaping and resurfacing the lawn. tractor loader and tire ballast close to 7000lb thanks uncle mike

[@paulduplessie1495]

Would th bottom hole be for a snowblower?

[@malgray7396]

Kubota 6950 DT can u show diagram of handbrake drawings and internals PTO...thankyou mal

[@houndsmanone4563]

Thanks Mike. 👍🏼🤠 5/4/23

[@stevepav8604]

You need to try all 3 holes...... 😉

[@patrickcorbett8361]

Good info Mike , thanks. pc

[@richardbritton5280]

Interesting ty Mike. 👏🏆🏆👴🐕🚜🤠

[@the_edge_of_time]

There is no easy ground engagement in NWA. 😢

[@PhyllisWilliams-e9y]

Show quick drive joint hook up

[@karatejoe5049]

WHICH HOLE

[@mattwright8353]

I like holes... all 3 of um

[@davidwilson7021]

I think the bottom hole is for a back blade

[@derweibhai]

That's what she said.....

[@doubleahomestead7794]

Which hole is always the question.

[@MorganOtt-ne1qj]

😯🤣👍

[@joecrachemontange4613]

I love my draft control

[@2frogland]

wouldnt matter what hole you used as you wouldnt use draft with a brush hog as theres no benefit,were as there is remarkedly when ploughing with the increased traction in tough going

[@rb2530]

👍👍

[@RJ1999x]

You explained draft control wrong. Draft control takes the "downforce pull" of the implement and transfers it to the tractor. It does not set the debth. The top link draft control only worked with mounted equipment, which made it useless on drawn, or semi mount implements. The depth control that actually worked sensed from the bottom arms, not the third link. Allis Chalmers traction booster was the only tractor that actually worked, before electronics

[@johnd4018]

I'm going to disagree on your explanation of draft control. IMHO Its purpose is to maintain constant pulling pressure/traction. if using a moldboard plow for example and you hit a particulary hard patch of ground the draft will slighly lift your implement which increases traction AND allows the plow to take a smaller bite; together this "automatically" keeps you rolling along rather than having to manually adjust you depth control lever, Actually, draft control does the opposite of maintaining constant depth, it instead maintains constant traction. Had it on several tractors on our farm back in the 70's and I never liked it as it would practically bring the plow right out of the ground in a hard spot, the actual opposite of what you wanted to do which was plow deeper in a hard spot to break up hardened ground If you set a plow for a certain depth, generally it will stay there through soft soil and hard, it will just pull harder through the hard soil --obviously-- and as long as you have adequate power and traction youre good. Disk example doesnt make sense either. set depth for soft soil, disk will ride up through rocky soil (depth control of no help there), disk will go back to proper preset depth when it reaches soft soil again. Enjoy your channel by the way, but youre basically wrong on this one IMHO

[@benfranklinification]

😊

[@nannettehuffman8397]

I've watched several videos on this topic, and there is no consensus on this topic.

[@raincloud54]

George Carlin said that in the Navy "there is no wrong hole"

[@Gruuvin1]

"which hole is the right one to connect to" Ahhh... Man's oldest question.

[@guyprattii3115]

There is no wrong hole.

[@007briles]

Which hole? for a postal digger.

[@m16ty]

Whichever one suits you best. the lower the hole, the higher the digger will lift. The higher the hole you use, the deeper the digger will go into the ground. That being said, if you are trying to use all of your auger length into the ground, use the lowest hole that still allows you to dig the total length of the auger. There is really no set hole across the board. It all depends on how tall your tractor sits off the ground and the geometry of your particular digger.

[@gerrycelia9409]

You're not spelling it right. It's draught control. Plow horses aren't draft horses, they're draught horses