Trailer Hitch Pin Do Not Let Yours Fail!

[@juanescobar687]

Excellent advice. Honestly, I was not aware that this should be replace yearly but it makes sense. Thanks for taking the time as I’m new to towing a trailer.

[@paulb1468]

Why thumb down this guy? He’s taking his time to let others know about safety issues. Good vid man thanks

[@edwardalamo2507]

Not a close up detail useless

[@garyschoonmaker1486]

@@edwardalamo2507 there wasn't really a need for a close up. He was talking about generic pins . Warning about cotter pin, rust, etc. Good video bud, thanks

[@user-zq6pj5jo8j]

@@edwardalamo2507 BUY GLASSES..!!!

[@richardradcliffe6047]

Thanks for bringing this up. I'm pretty new to trailering and, considering all the backup safety systems on a trailer, I'm simply amazed that this feeble little pin is all that's between you and catastrophe. Just before coming across this video, I ordered a locking hitch pin that uses a cotter pin as a backup in case the lock comes off. Why all hitch pins don't have some kind of safety backup is beyond me. Of the bazillions of hitch pins you can find online, only a handful have any kind of backup.

[@smiley3303]

I have a Master lock but it is different design than he has. I have had it for around 10 years. I use it year round and it stainless steel. I sprayed with rust protector anyway and it has been very good for me! I use it in ND and MN so it has been tested.

[@aerolou1]

I had one of these type of locks from Reese. Hooked up trailer, put the pin on, checked to make sure it was locked in place 2 times, stop at gas station for gas and checked lock again, my wife also checked it, at the gas station to make sure it was on and locked, got home from day at the lake and when I went to unhook the trailer the lock was gone all the was left was the pin itself which could have fallen out at anytime. Extremely dangerous situation. I emailed Reese about it and never got any response. I will never buy this type of locking pin again.

[@bigearn8782]

Exact same story here. However, mine was barely holding on. Locking part fell apart in pieces.

[@johnnywishbone1349]

I had the same happen on a cheap Reese lock. Ended up having to cut it off 6 months after from the winter. What a pain that was. Never again.

[@robertknorr8470]

I just had to remove the exact lock you have in your hand, the rusted one. Hit it 3 times with small sledge hammer, snapped right off at the narrow spot on the pin ! I put in a Grade #8 , 5/8 bolt and two lock-nuts tightened together.

[@nick1122]

I put a highest grade bolt that’s harder than the pin with the plastic lock nut ! Better than all them locks ! Hard to steal , never break , never get loose it’s coated no rust ! Perfect

[@spotchek]

My simple and easy thing that I do is to use a zip tie around the cotter pin so it can't spread open. just put them around the bent areas where the two sids would meet and tighten them up. you can remove them later with pliers, also it's a good deterrent.

[@user-zq6pj5jo8j]

Cool idea, but i've had Zip Ties break and fall apart in the sun and weather. Its just not safe to trust nylon/plastic in the weather/sun.

[@davidgrowden769]

I myself use a locking style. I don't have any issue with rusting of the lock. I do however do pull the hitch ball out when not in use along with the lock. I keep my lock in the glovebox so I have it and my one hitch in my cab in my cargo under the backseat. My weight distribution hitch I don't use a ton so I don't keep it on me

[@ragingbullhcwf]

No more pins for me. I use a 5/8 nut & bolt with lock washer to secure mine.

[@Red5]

Hopefully it's at least a grade 8 bolt with a long shoulder. i wouldn't want the threaded part of the bolt in the hitch

[@ROTAXD]

ragingbullhcwf agreed. I run a grade 10.9 bolt with a steel (vs nylock) locknut and Nord-Locks @ either end. Nobody is getting my drawbar without some effort.

[@billplaisance6387]

I bought a grade 8 5/8 x 4 inch bolt for my hitch. Thought about getting a lock nut but I figured two regular nuts tightened against each other would do the trick.

[@andrewchristiansen8311]

Great so I just need a 5/8 socket and wrench to take your trailer.

[@DJJOEYVLLC]

Head on a 5/8 thick bolt requires a 15/16 to 1" socket and it's air wrenched on so good luck getting it off with your 5/8 socket and wrench!

[@a1930ford]

Spray the lock with Corrosion X and you will have no rust problems. It may not be caused by the cheap China metals, but from the reaction of different types of metals rubbing together, instead. Using these locks are not so much of a dedicated method of stopping a thief from stealing your receiver and thus, anything being towed from you. It is much cheaper and probably works better to use a grade 8 bolt and nut instead, as then the person has to have two wrenches to remove the hitch and that takes time. Most thieves do not carry those wrenches on hand. That does mean the hitch and receiver are not going to be as easily changed out by you though, but it works better as a security precaution than these locking pins do, anyway. A grade 8 bolt is not stainless steel, but has about a 25,000 more strength than the stainless steel bolts do. You can always paint the bolt and nut before using it if you are concerned about rust on them. Nice video for providing thoughts as to safety. Thanks for posting.

[@tanguy2641]

We just had a towing episode where a cheap hitch pin lock didn't hold and the towbar came out of the receiver. The safety cables saved the car.

[@georgecurtis6463]

Anything with moving parts, etc, needs maintenance. So in this case it needed regular oiling or a spray of anti rust fluid. This is specially critical if you live in a rust prone area.

[@astrogerard2022]

Good quality stainless steel won't rust. If it does it is cheap stuff.

[@georgecurtis6463]

@@astrogerard2022 key word is good quality. There is ss stuff out there that may still spot rust. Wont know till it does. I just found a ss scraper that rusted.

[@WSIMagicWeb]

Good advice. Our trailer hitch cotter pin either broke or worked its way out and the hitch pin came out. The entire trailer and hitch pulled out of the hitch receiver and dropped onto the interstate when we were driving at 65 mph. Very scary and perhaps could have been prevented with a simple maintenance action. We have been pulling this trailer for 2 years so maybe every year replacement is a good idea.

[@tractorboy31]

I bought a 5/8 hitch pin at tsc with a lynch pin to secure it. Works good

[@campinggetaway8707]

I am going to head there and check it out. These new larger hitch receivers are hard to find pins long enough for them.

[@shanevonharten3100]

I use a bolt with a nylon lock nut. I don't take my hitch out often but its still only one bolt

[@LG-yy2up]

Great Video on something everyone takes for granted!

[@steveo4141]

Good video.... it should be mentioned.. the hitch and pin should only be on the truck when towing.... safer and minimize rust/ seizing issues.

[@bryanmacias4947]

Thanks for the great video reminder!

[@TroyDake]

Thanks I didn't know the 1 year rule on the cotter pin!

[@orlandoduran7740]

i like to grease my balls with wheel bearing greese lol to prevent corrosion and wear on the ball, also in the receiver, for the locking pin i have a reese similar to the rusty one you have and i also cover it with grease cause is also got some surface rust like yours, the locking mechanism was getting stock, but after some wd40 it works freat now, i also spray white lithium in the locking mechanism to keep it working properly

[@bradley5819]

Are linchpins ok? Why no one use?

[@FeelYoungAgain]

You would have to make sure they were rated for your load. The ones you get from the big box stores can be cheap and not hold up to big loads

[@carievoss6347]

02:16 another reason to bring back high quality anthracite PA Coal to make high quality PA steel. Make PA great again!

[@campinggetaway8707]

Carie Voss totally agree!

[@bryanmcinerny3658]

Coals the future right? *rolls eyes*

[@deecee2837]

LOL, surely by now those with a semblance of intelligence realize the con was on with don.

[@gregmacklem]

A couple years ago, I drove 7 hours towing my camper to a campground. I looked at my locking hitchpin and it was hanging funny. I put my foot on the lock to spin it around lightly and it fell right off. Could have been a disaster.

[@franktstets8037]

I bought a gr-8 five eighth bolt at Tractor Supply. I drilled a quarter inch hole in thru the bolt where the hitch clip would go. Then I put a hardened shackle lock on the bolt. The bolt doesn't come out and thieves don't succeed !

[@davidmillan2057]

i get the safety cotter pin from gen y hitch or the lets go aero shp2040 locking pin

[@mikeenos4040]

Grade 8 bolt screw the nut down drill a small Thu the end centered about half inch to pot the pin in ,unscrew the nut to clean the threads and then use a washer on each end and a grade 8 locking nut .tighten up laser you pin to keep the nut from backing out . 100 times stronger than any pin set up. And cost just as much as a good pin , I just don't trust the pins

[@williamriley2528]

Hardened steel will rust... Period. No matter it's country of origin. That's why you should grease it upon your initial installation... Moisture is going to get into the locking mechanism and stay trapped there. Therefore an oxidation problem...

[@genecoppedge5972]

Great information, thank you for your concern for others.

[@FrancoisLabelle-yf8tj]

Install grade #8 zinc plated 3/8 bolt with a nylon anti-slip grade #8 nut...

[@jody6121]

5/8

[@deeeeeeps]

I have a bunch of those locks. They do rust but seem to work. I like the lock i got from Bolt keyed the same as my truck key...however one their locks have failed me when it froze out.

[@silverevans7763]

Great video thanks for the info

[@mike7044863]

Lock pins always rust out ......Once a year spray white lithium grease inside and out to maintain

[@systemfile]

Watch the videos on how easy these are to break.

[@domingod4648]

Better get that Master Lock off quick... lasted 6 months. Had to break mine off yesterday with a pipe because of the salt from the winter roads corroded the lock and the key didn’t work. I even sprayed wd40 and a heavy duty anti-corroding liquid on. I’m going back to the pin. $2 vs. $10.

[@FeelYoungAgain]

Cut mine off to... Using a cheap pin for now until I find something that works

[@domingod4648]

Denis Bishop - yea, if you are like me and there’s harsh winters and a bunch of salt on the road, the pin is the way to go. I’m just going to have to take my ball hitch off every time I’m not using it so someone doesn’t steal it. The reason I got a lock is because I like to keep a ball hitch on in winter if someone rear ends me. But in the summer when I’m hauling my cargo trailer and camping trailer, I’m just going to have to remove my ball hitch every time I’m done using it. Which isn’t a big deal but whatever. I’m seeing a lot of people having trouble with these master locks.

[@billyjoejim-bob423]

Good points regarding the "quality" of ball mount pins, standard or locking types! Buy quality American made pins, not cheap offshore manufactured JUNK! As I do a lot of repairs to utility and boat trailers ( for side money, "no tax / no tracks" ) I have firsthand knowledge of numerous instances of where the "hairpin cotter clip" or cheap AND expensive "shaft locking mechanisms" have failed and I'll share a few things that I've learned over time with everybody... 1. The standard "hairpin cotter" securing clip, that comes with most basic, cheap 5/8" pins can and will come out over time due to weakening of the "spring factor" and allow the pin to work it's way out! Especially the hairpin clips that do not go through a hole in the pin, but just "clamp around" a groove in the pin. NEVER use a "slide over, compression type pin"!!! 2. For those that insist on using a cheap "standard 5/8" pin, DRILL A SECOND 1/8" hole for a SECOND clip! 2 hairpin clips "failing" at the exact same time is highly unlikely and is mighty cheap insurance. 5 minutes with decent drill bit and you're done! I used to do a "double clip pin" many years ago before moving on to using a a top quality hitch pin, made with at least grade 5 or grade 8 American steel, secured with a good quality brass padlock with a 3/16" diameter hasp. This lock then goes in the appropriately sized hole drilled into the pin. Usually, enlarging the 1/8" clip hole to a 7/32" diameter "lock hole" will work good. 3. I strongly agree with "noctanol's" comment below "Use a padlock." For at least the last 20 years, I have always bought high quality steel hitch pins a good quality Brass lock. I try to talk others into doing this also. It's mighty cheap insurance! 4. A grade 8, 5/8" diameter bolt with 2 "NYLOCK" nuts is a good option, provided that the bolt's smooth shank continues to the outside of the pin hole. Do not have the bolt's threads in the receiver tube wall! This increases the "possibility," even though small, of "shearing" the pin in a worst case scenario. A "bolt pin" is probably better for a ball mount that will not be removed for a long time as it's just good insurance to NOT keep reusing a Nylock nut for such an important function. Yes, I know that GOOD quality Nylocks are rated for reuse, but a lot of folks just buy the cheapest junk because they don't know better or don't care! Once again - new, quality Nylock nuts are mighty cheap insurance! Never take your hitch pin for granted!!!

[@campinggetaway8707]

great tips. I may be moving to a pin with a brass lock this is my second pin now this time was high end still gums up and I just do not trust it. I like the double pin Idea!

[@dsweet2010]

Do you have photos of the pin/brass lock you’re talking about

[@ericwright3382]

Top Link pin with hole for a padlock. All the videos showing how easy the locking pins can be easily broken off, they should not even be called "locking".

[@snakebite6511]

why leave the hitch on when not in use? Personally, i take my hitch off when i am not using it and out it away out of the elements, it only takes a minute to put it on when i need it. Then again, my hitch is for pleasure purposes only and not used for work.

[@barrytanenbaum4157]

Great Video! I learned something from you today! Thanks again!

[@northlander4370]

most people install the ball and hitch into the receiver and leave it there as part of the vehicle , in my area driving around with that equipment installed and not towing a trailer can warranted a fine , i never leave mine attached , when i park my camper i remove the ball and hitch , be careful in parking lots , you can back up too close and damage another vehicle ....your fault ! , if you arent towing remove it !

[@thyBreakpoint]

Lubricate it with light oil.

[@abdullahal-shimri3091]

Dude, just take off that contraption when not in use. It's not only ugly but illegal in some states. Put a nice plastic hitch cover there.

[@user-zq6pj5jo8j]

"Dude" Learn about what your talking about first, or better yet STOP TALKING...DUMBASS

[@fsreyes1]

The device you're using to capture the video footage is made in China.

[@123cloudy-days]

Thnx,good info

[@olabashanda]

just lost a rack on the back in the middle of a fancy ski town during the busiest day….

[@danwinters3948]

open the hole and use a pad lock

[@fsreyes1]

Ram truck parts are manufactured in China.

[@leonardomaldonado3772]

Grade 8 o more bolt and 2 nuts easy and cheap

[@noctanol]

Use a padlock

[@richardpalleschi4807]

Me to drilled out the R pin hole to use a padlock.

[@kaseycasece1340]

PUT LOCK ON YOUR PIN

[@CosgroveNotts]

Buy Murican stuff, no tariffs

[@northlander4370]

the tariffs are built into the price if they are made of Canadian steel !

[@sergeybritan]

Нихера не понятно!

[@JohnAnderson-sm8jl]

Where are you getting "the number one failure is the pin", lol? Where's the data? Or is this something you just heard from a guy who heard it on youtube. Solutions? 1) Don't buy a pin held on with a cotter pin 2) Don't buy cheap locking pins.