Trailer Wiring Install: CURT 56146 Taillight Converter

www.curtmfg.com
This video depicts the installation of the CURT 56146 Taillight Converter. You must read and understand the supplied instruction sheet(s) prior to installing.
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Application Coverage Information:
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**12 VOLT POWER SOURCE REQUIRED**
CURT recommends using the CURT 55151 Powered Taillight Converter Wiring Kit in addition, for this installation.
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Warning:
-This video is intended to be used as reference. Please refer to print instructions for complete installation information.
-Need help or have some questions? Call Technical Support at 800.798.0813 (Monday-Friday 8am-7pm CST)

[@dnamronregnaleb3873]

finally a video that show how to do it your self the easy way

[@abtruckdriver]

Ah scotch locks....destroying factory harnesses since their fn creation...(if you feel that you "must" use them its best to leave at least 6" of wire between them and whatever plug you're splicing inton as to allow for option of repair in future and still being able to retain the factory plug) Otherwise good video, nice short concise and easy to follow

[@arollinseng]

This video also works for the Tekenosha modulite HD protector without a t-connector. Thanks for making it, is very informative

[@curtmfg]

Glad it helped

[@brucewhite7069]

well done good job

[@davehare8434]

MUST this connect to a BAT + (always powered) connection? I have a 12 V power tap on the hatch of my 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT hatchback that is always on with ACC and IGN, but turns off when key is turned off. Does the module need to "REBOOT" each time or will it just work when engine is on and hooked up? Will it hurt the unit to NOT have BAT power always? I don't want to string a BAT 12V from the front of the car and end up voiding my warranty for some pinching problem. I obviously would fuse it at 10 amps with a 12 gauge wire from the cigarette lighter port in the back. The car is one of the fer that you didn't have a plug and play set up for! thanks, Dave

[@josuecastrejon2616]

👏🏼