Train Table Update 01: Testing HO Scale 4x6 Layout Using Bachmann EZ Track

[@Eclipse1988]

Problems aside, it was really cool to see this train run!

[@johnbeck3270]

As mentioned by others, the gaps in the rail joints will cause power loss, and make sure the rails have gone into the joiners properly, if they haven’t, this can cause derailment issues. Check your trip pin rail clearance, Kadee makes a combination coupler tool and trip pin bending pliers that are right down handy. Good quality couplers are a must. If these are Bachmann’s “EZ Mate/“ couplers check out Kadee 148 “whisker” couplers, I think you’ll like their performance. If this is just out of the box track, wipe it down with a cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove any forming oil that may still be on the rails. The blinking bumper may also be a problem, I had a Bachmann set with a blinking light bridge, every time the light flashed the loco slowed down. Good idea to start small, the switching possibilities on what you have are really great. I realize this video is a year old but I hope you get the bugs out. These can really discourage a new modeler.

[@tomasgimenez4592]

Nice job so far!

[@VintageRoadRail]

Thanks! I have expanded it to 4x8. Starting the layout build this week.

[@agonquin]

I am so happy I made the switch from Bachmann track to Kato Track and never looked back :0)

[@VintageRoadRail]

Kato track is far better. I use EZ track because it's code 100 and is better for a lot of the older stuff I run.

[@hessxpress3016]

the gaps in the frogs are HUGE on bachmann switches and derail everything on the turnout side. some atlas snaptrack switches do it to. great start so far!

[@VintageRoadRail]

Yep, switches are the biggest issue. Considering going to Unitrack.

[@billfusionenterprise]

@@VintageRoadRail you could, but first rub your finger accros rails, liitle spurs can cause issues. also avoid S curves (there are videos on this) I see long cars which don't like them

[@ryans413]

Never had an issue of cars derailing on the Bachman turnouts

[@deepsleep7822]

I have problems with Marklin switches when using non-Marklin rolling stock. Athearns seem to have the fewest issues.

[@markryan1754]

Nice Video of the new track plan you have on your layout!

[@SteveCarmichael]

I like your layout. I have the same problem with couplers. They connect best on straight track, so I try to position cars so that the two cars coupling together will be straight in line with each other.

[@VintageRoadRail]

Body mounted couples drive me crazy on a curve, like you I try to position on a straight, but even then can have issues. I don't have that issue with the old truck mounted horn hooks. lol

[@billfusionenterprise]

I agree, only coupler that likes turns,,,horn hook

[@monmixer]

You can slightly file down the edges of the turn outs. I see the cars are bumping when the hit the rail of the turn out that isn't part of the main line. that will stop that not so smooth transition from the turn out to the main and the same way coming into a turn out. It appears the coupling issues are on small curves.

[@hectorcalderon1878]

I am an old timer with a renewed interest in Model Railroading, I will be starting from scratch and starting small. I am looking for a Loco like yours with lights bells and whistles. Can you share the make and model or yours . Your video is inspiring and will be fun ironing out the kinks.

[@VintageRoadRail]

Sorry about the lat reply, took me a bit to find the box this locomotive was in. This is an Atlas SD-35. Its part of their Master Series of locomotives. Item #9202. This one was upgraded with a Tsunami sound decoder.

[@Whispfount555]

Bachman EZ-Track couplers work best on a straight track. They don't couple well on the curves

[@billfusionenterprise]

FYI, Gaps and bad joints are you enimies on DCC, and seeing the gaps where the engine fails points out the issue. Try replacing the joiners or giving them a squeze. keep in mind you have only one feeder feeding the power in

[@VintageRoadRail]

I definitely think I got some gaps going on, see it even with the DC stuff. More feeders would be helpful too.

[@ryan1gr]

Nice track plan! But change your type of track, (I know this sounds really hard) because that track gives a lot of false contacts between the rail joiners, and change your couplers !!. Kadee is one of the best choices. One tip is to coupling cars at straigth track or at least a small piece of straigth because the coupler has to stay as straigth as possible to avoid uncouplings

[@Whispfount555]

Nice track

[@Relax_Inn]

I enjoyed your layout, I too use EZ track. I agree with the other comment on the coupling problem. The cars seem to couple better on a straight track. Im not sure if switching to Kadee couplers would help the situation. For now, Im using EZ track to try out different track layouts. I can quickly change and try different layouts, once Im satisfied I can switch to a different brand of track. You mentioned the loco was sounding like it was dropping out, perhaps the track has some dirty spots. my track always needs to be cleaned. Is the CSX loco a GP35?

[@VintageRoadRail]

Close, SD35. I was thinking dirty spots on the track as well. Then I remembered I ran a track cleaning car over the track and the Loco has a keep alive. Runs perfectly at the club, so I'm at a lose.

[@Relax_Inn]

@@VintageRoadRail something with the track, that’s the only difference really, i think.

[@billfusionenterprise]

GAPS, you can see the loss as you hiy the gap (DCC issue for sure) make sure connections are solid

[@billfusionenterprise]

@@VintageRoadRail tripple axle on 18 with S curves, hmm, I had A guy who said his SD worked on 15, I said pull some cars, oops

[@elleryparsons2433]

I also use Bachmann But in N Scale So Far I have Had no Problems.

[@Runawayrack]

What Size Is That Table? Just Askin So I Know What Size To Tell My Dad To Build It.

[@VintageRoadRail]

In this video it's 6 foot wide and 4 foot long. I have since made it a foot longer, now it's 4x7.

[@billfusionenterprise]

FYI, get a kaddee coupler guage to check coupler heights, and their trip pins, if off they will cause all kind of issues like the derailments. Also keep in mind Bachmann uses a cheaper knockoff of Kadee coupler and do have cars which they are just bad. Might want to mark your problem cars, when they get three marks on one, do a service (neat maintennce trick)

[@VintageRoadRail]

I like that maintenance trick! Stuff I run on the regular I try to make sure to match my couplers with my Kadee gauge. Problem is I usually run into problems at the train club and forget what car was an issue by the time I get home. That little trick will help with that. Thanks. :)

[@VintageRoadRail]

I only use Kadee for long trains that I run at the train club. Figure the metal couplers can take the stress better that plastic. For the rest I usually leave them be unless they break. The I replace with Kadee. Most cars with horn hooks keep the horn hooks. Not worth the investment for most when a $5 adapter car will do the trick.

[@billfusionenterprise]

@@firefly0282 horn hooks also suffer from trip issues

[@billfusionenterprise]

@@firefly0282 I just cut off the trip pin on horn hooks, they were meant for an uncoupler track

[@hollywood1340]

DCC? What system are you using?

[@VintageRoadRail]

I switch between DC and DCC. DC is just a standard controller. For DCC I am using a Digitrax DCS-51 with the Wi-Fi module so that I can use my phone as a throttle. There is a newer version, DCS-52.

[@crsrdash-840b5]

wait...is that a SD35R? Where did you get one of those lovely locomotives!!! If your engine or cars try to couple on a curve, it won't work. That spur track has 1 too many cars (even if they are 34-40ft). Try only 2 cars of that length per spur. If your cars have truck-mounted couplers then that's another issue with coupling. Finally, you got a sharp "S" curve coming off of that spur track. That can cause derailments as the curves are too sharp. Take out any S curves would fix some issues. One thing to keep in mind with larger 6-axle locomotives, they were not designed to work on sharp curves of 18-inch radius. You will need a 4-axle to handle such tracks. hope this helps.

[@VintageRoadRail]

That is my favorite locomotive! It's by Atlas. To me it looks good and sounds better. Can pull 30 cars with ease. I got that rascal off eBay. Lots of great advice you gave. The switches I have are not good for yard work, that built in 18" curve is impossible to couple on. I'll post a link in a moment to a video I did of that locomotive.

[@VintageRoadRail]

Video on that SD35: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3PEo2p_dsuMmas

[@deepsleep7822]

Trying to couple cars on a curve is a difficult task.

[@MainTrack1Prodctions]

How do you feed the other points of track with Bachman dcc

[@VintageRoadRail]

My layout is so small I just have o e connection point using Bachmans wiring connector. I have one on the DC pack and one on the DCC controller. I just plug in the one I want to use.

[@roady1710]

Well, I’m thinking that you tore this down put it away and moved onto another new hobby

[@VintageRoadRail]

Nope, still have it and still model railroading. Now that I no longer have a layout at the club I will be building one in my basement.