Transparent 3D Printing!

The Bambu mouse kit LOOKS GOOD when printed with the ‪@Formlabs‬ Form 4 in TRANSPARENT RESIN. Holy cow, so good!
BENCHY IN A BOTTLE VIDEO FROM ‪@DERAILED3D‬
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[@DERAILED3D]

Mom! I’m in a 3DPN video!! Thanks for the shoutout Joel, I hope everyone here enjoys the project! I have the full video about embedding parts inside resin prints coming out soon!

[@jwk427]

Suddenly feeling very nostalgic for the 90s clear electronics trend. Oh how far we have fallen with our modern opaque electronics...

[@E3_Kruger]

At least nothing is trying something in that line, they make some absolutely gorgeous tech

[@wildniscamper7276]

i loved the transparent walkman..looked so fancy at the time..

[@victorsi]

Apple released translucent Beats Studio Buds+ and they looked so clean. I wish they would bring it to AirPods.

[@davidtobin]

And clear Pepsi!!

[@ScytheNoire]

I remember all the transparent items for consoles. Transparent Gameboys, transparent PS controller, transparent N64 controller, transparent iMac. It really was the hottest trend, and it appears it's the current trend again, at least according to tech sites.

[@spork861]

Btw if you clearcoat the pieces and let it cure to full dry then it's glass clear AND safer to touch.

[@theheadone]

Yeah, I definitely wouldn't feel comfortable using that every day with skin contact, resin is nasty stuff. Also, I can't imagine oil from your skin would keep that transparent for long.

[@Mitch3D]

Also PCBWay can print transparent parts with clear coated varnish. That's how some retro console modders are printing their shells.

[@ignacionieves]

2:23, "I'm Matt Ferrell ... welcome to Undecided."

[@B0A2]

Yes!!

[@brandonacree4605]

Came here to say this lol

[@agreen9831]

@@brandonacree4605 same lol

[@Barnacules]

Fantastic video Joel 🤗 Next time brush on an extra layer of thick clear resin after the print is finished and all supports are removed and let it drip off in the dark for an hour then UV cure it and all the layer lines will disappear and it will be 100% optically clear like glass. I did this with a magnifying glass once and it was flawless without any wet sanding or anything. It had zero distortion also perfectly magnifying. It genuinely looked like blown glass. Try it next time. 👍🏻

[@jeanbeaupre4006]

My graduate thesis used a 3D Systems SLA-1 resin printer 30 years ago. I would use it to make injection molds. Designing in CAD then printing is pretty common now. But the wild part was using an arc sprayer to spray molten zinc alloy on the 3D part to create a metal shell that could be used as a mold (after pouring epoxying backing). The zinc would super-cool in flight enough that you could spray your hand. With MOLTEN METAL. I sprayed my brother's hand with about 3mm of zinc. We still have it somewhere (hand and mold). Oh, and the resin for the printer: $700 gallon

[@2.Plus.2.Equals.5]

Nice, who knew all it took was a $10,000 FormLabs setup. I'm guessing a $300 Elegoo resin printer couldn't achieve the same thing? 😄

[@ClangandChiill]

I can print perfectly clear transparent prints on my old ass mars pro 2(tho admittedly a newer higher res or dlp printer is better). Siraya Tech Blu v2 clear resin(you'll need a hot room or a heated build chamber), sand away any bad layer line spots then just coat with modpodge acrylic spray. The acrylic spray fills up the gaps and restores the optical clarity to the part, 2-3 coats should be sufficient, but laying down 4-7 light coats is better, especially if you got lazy with sanding. You can also dye the part with RIT synthetic dyes before acrylic coating to get a color transparent part.

[@juaqui_nn]

Any

[@JayEm16]

Classic Joel video takes something basic and simple as remaking a mouse and making it fun and interesting for us to watch! Love it!

[@sweetbee52]

In 2018 I wanted a Gramazon cover for my echo dot. I found out it was cheaper to buy a printer than to have it printed. Bought the original Ender 3 no bells or whistles. Taught myself how to use it. (I’m an old fart 71) But I managed to print one and I was thrilled. Fast forward to 2024. Bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro decided to print another one and the difference was unbelievable. Didn’t realize how much better I was and the new machine was like driving a Ferrari! 😂🤣😂🤣

[@toootankhamooon]

Wow , huge respect to you sir for keeping on learning , i wish i’d be like that at your age young , best wishes :)

[@gltovar]

Word of caution when printing with resin where the parts will be in contact with human skin for extended periods of time (like a mouse). 3D printing resin contain high levels of Bisphenols, the B in BPA and in the replacement compounds BPS and BPF that can interact with the human immune system. To get these materials as safe as possible there are tested resins with very specific curing processes to be followed. For example you can look up Siraya Blu bio compatibility testing and curing instructions for a human skin contact safe solution.

[@Robothut]

PCB way does transparent 3d prints as well. The samples I have seen online looked even clearer than the 1 you just made. Any chance you could have PCB way do the same pint so we could see the difference, if any? Thank you for sharing this new resin with us.

[@thomaswakefield6889]

PCB Way clearcoats their transparent models

[@Robothut]

@@thomaswakefield6889 Good to know. That would help the clear look.

[@erkishhorde]

You can make clear resin prints more clear by painting clear resin on top of the finished print and then curing that. The layer lines tend to make clear resin prints somewhat foggy like privacy glass in a shower door and this never completely goes away no matter how nice your resin is. So if you want perfectly clear, you need completely smooth surfaces like glass, hence painting other resins on top. I've actually found that painting print resin on top isn't that great and I have better success with a thicker resin like for jewelry making. They are usually self leveling and help fill in between the layer lines better.

[@pierrick1705]

Nice i can finally start selling 3D prints to inmates

[@DanVogt]

That's hilarious

[@wykonczeni]

Transparent is when your father is your mother. This is translucent 😅🤌

[@thorstenskanal7371]

@@wykonczeni 😂😂👍🏻

[@Flavorsonlyyy]

@@wykonczeni 😂🤣🤣🤣

[@georgeaura]

For some reason I thought the base of the mouse would also be transparent instead of white.

[@FuturePerfectContinuous]

fail!

[@eugenew2]

I used to live down the street from you. You inspired me to get my first printer about 5 years ago. They can sometimes have temper tantrums, but when they do work, the continued amazed face I get when I show some of my work. I think the faves are the colored lithophanes.

[@Wozzydoes]

I printed keychains when I started printing in late 2018, now on my Bambu Labs printers I can make keychains no sweat without needing to watch them and manually do the layer changes, and I wouldn’t worry about the print failing because tech has gotten so much better lately.

[@spork861]

>look for bottle embed video that was supposedly in description >its not in description

[@dwang085]

@spork861, this seems to be it. I couldn’t find it linked in the description either. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZLRmZ-pi5ljh9ksi=lMN4whSEu6Rqf9Pz Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be a lot in the video other than a build montage. But still awesome

[@3DPrintingNerd]

yeah my fault. forgot at 2am. it's in the description now!

[@DERAILED3D]

@@dwang085 yes it is currently only a build montage, but I have the full video coming out soon, which is about how I did that and generally about the concept of embedding things into resin prints. Stay tuned and thank you for your support!

[@dwang085]

@@DERAILED3D ❤️ 🎉

[@nemesis851_]

I would be clearcoat spraying it so my hand isn’t continuously in contact with CURED resin

[@LincolnWorld]

Thanks for another fun video. My first printer was a makerbot with a wood case. It was around 15 years ago. It was wonderful when it worked, but man oh man did it almost never work. I've had numerous other printers over the years that were mostly all a total pain in the behind. But ever since I got the X1C, I've been finally able to print many of my old models that just didn't get the consistency, or accuracy with any of those other printers. So, I've been printing those, and getting back to working on old ideas that I just could not get working with the older printers, as well as new ideas that would have been not worth the hassle on the old ones. Hoping to give you a high-5 next week in person at Rappid. Until then, here's a virtual High-5!

[@oobasnork]

Bring back the classic Yoda head model that everyone was printing back in the day! That was one of my first prints back when I got my Solidoodle 2 a billion years ago.

[@olahf8490]

A quick coating with Future floor wax and that print will be crystal glass clear. Future is a airplane modelers secret to the clearest canopies. Very thin model clear works great too but Future gives a great urethane coating as well.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

wait - really?

[@olahf8490]

@@3DPrintingNerd Yep the results are amazing. you can brush it very thin or dip it into it and let it drip off. We use a hair dryer to help dry and push any excess liquid off the surface. Before with clear I would wet sand it down to 2k grit and then use Tamiya clear coat then use Novus plastic polished to get optically clear results but the Future actually can fill in any surface scratches as well. ** Update looks like Pledge has discontinued the Future line of waxes as of 2022 and the bottles now go for 70 dollars each but Holloway House Quick Shine is a good cheap alternative. I still have a bottle of the old pledge stuff I guess I will treat like gold now.

[@wk5199]

Sad that I found that out while reading your comment. Got one bottle of Future left. I wonder if spraying 2K clear would be any good?

[@olahf8490]

@@wk5199 If you are spraying a clear you cant really go wrong with the Mr. Hobby or Tamiya brands.

[@rcmaniac25]

Transparent all the electronics! Also, that timelapse was trippy... usually you see the resin print coming out of a vat, but that timelapse made it look like it was coming out of mid-air. As for reprinting something... that's a good idea. I also will be hitting 10 years of printing in December (first printer arrived Dec 2014) and there were some super-complex models that existed then (multi-ball jointed dog, a standing elephant that was print in place and had a flexible trunk) and I tried and the worst part was supports and tolerances. I came to a conclusion many years ago "let model makers make models, I'll handle the slicing and printing". This may sound a bit obvious, but some may remember years ago when someone would make a detailed/complex model and people would just comment "there's no way you can actually print this" and I decided "yea, they can't. But give it time and the slicers will get better, the printers will get better, but your STL or STEP isn't changing... so instead of shooting down a creator, let them create, someone will try to print it, but eventually everyone will be able to print it". I'll need to see what old model I have and try to reprint it with the advanced stuff we have now.

[@juaqui_nn]

Just for public knowledge. You can use a cheap highRes 150usd printer (riesin one) and print the model with a inexpensive pmma like esun resin and obtain the same results, no need a 100usd resin and a 3000usd printer... (Sorry about my bad English

[@EpsilonRosePersonal]

The way the layer lines stood out on the clear components, in some of the shots, made me wonder if you could use them to turn your 3d prints into fresnel lenses, if you adjusted the orientation and slicing just right.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Whoa. Maybe???

[@kalizk]

Wet sanding and clear coat, like people mentioned, can make it clearer -- but also you'll want to do a coat so you protect it from UV and yellowing over time.

[@ShadyTheDragon]

you should use a very small amount of color, lite enough you can't tell because doing that will help keep it from yellowing.

[@JeffreySquires]

It reminds me of those old clear house phones from when I was a kid.

[@gruffmonster3232]

ninth, always loved the content, you and a few other select youtubers got me into 3d printing, two years into having an ender 3 now. both love and hate that thing

[@1981AdamGs]

I did the same thing to my Bambu mouse. Only I don't have a resin printer. So I used Elegoo clear PLA on my P1S and it turned out amazing. It's not as clear as resin. But it has a great frosted look to it.

[@Snic]

i redid my first design last month ! Quite some years ago i designed a mic arm to fit my monitors vesa mount, printed on my wanhao i3 plus and put together with superglue. designed it better (to fit my new monitor) printed in abs with my voron 2.4, pieces go together with screws since i used heatset inserts so now its also adjustable. no rubber bands to hold the mic in place or anything

[@bowieinc]

Crazy, but it’s the best mouse I’ve owned! Love the little button behind scroll wheel that allows scroll speed change on the fly so modeling details are more precise.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

For $12 it’s REALLY hard to beat. I’ve had the Logitech MX for a while and it’s also very good but again, this one is $12 hahah.

[@kyleo1236]

I got my first printer about 9 years ago. Around 7-8 years ago I used a kinect scanner and free software to scan my head and I 3D printed my face. Thats probably the only print I'd like to redo.

[@nonames9]

is there a way to do something with FDM? i tried transparent PLA, but tbh, thats more like a cloudy half transparent filament

[@DavidLinkan]

Short answer : No. It really depends on the material itself and FDM doesn't allow better than you already have. :/

[@YourBuddyDinec]

About 2-3 years ago I did a 2 color benchy with the original 3D Chameleon and am literally working on my ERCFv2 as I watch this video so would love to try that again with more colors too

[@bitsurfer0101]

I'd like to try printing a carbon fiber handlebar for my bicycle now that tech has improved a fair bit.

[@Densmode3dp]

We got our first printer in 2012, a Makerbot rep 2. I used a dslr and photogrammetry to make a bust of my father. It’s quite small and only ok. He passed away a few years ago, and I’d like to print it again on our Asiga or Epax…heck even the P1S might do a great job. Need to hunt down the scan!

[@primoroy]

Back in the 80s we use to test injection molds with clear resin. All the tooling marks would marr the surface of the parts just like your mouse parts. A vapor honing process would dissolve the surface and it would harden in a crystal clear smooth glass like finish.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Whoa really? That’s cool!

[@flaagan]

My first 3d printer was a PrintrBot. Something I tried to print on it was models of the shoulder beacon and rappelling tool from the original The Division game, but the print head clogged and it became a mess. A new friend printed them for me without even asking to. Now, a decade or so later, I've got a Form2 and a X1C I use regularly (as well as a tall delta printer and a CR-10S that both refused to work properly). I also now work regularly with Solidworks, and it's been floating in the back of my head to possibly re-model and re-print those two items with the newer, far better printers I have available to me.

[@NotOutOfIdeas]

I wonder how little of the opaque undercarriage is needed to keep the position sensor operating effectively? Could the bottom print be separated into two to have even more transparency?

[@username9774]

I printed parts for a lego 3dprinter back in 2016 with the tevo tarantula

[@OMentertainment]

Actually, I've resin printed a custom shaped visor for a costume (I dont have vaccuform, and its a particular shape) and while it came out somewhat clear, even with sanding & buffing, it's still a bit cloudy. I'd love to re-print it in V5 to see if I can get it any clearer. I've also been trying to see if I can create it in FDM form using certain clear-ish resins that require post processing techniques (like Polysmooth with alcohol, or T-Glase with self-leveling resin). Results are mixed at best, so far.

[@PeirotheFirescare]

Some time ago I made a ship model of a chinese junker and printed it in fdm. The model was to detailed and fragile for that and it came out not as impressive as I hoped. I would love to try that model in a transparent resin or any SLA printer to be honest ^^

[@PursuerOfTruth]

I so badly wanna have translucent tech cases again.

[@thomaswakefield6889]

you know if you actually use car polish on that clear mouse and really buff it out a few times it will then be really really transparent.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Ooh yes!

[@aeonjoey3d]

I was like "no, no you're not showing the BBL mouse kit mouse in resin, NO!" LOL

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yessssssss

[@powcar91]

I got into 3d printing because I wanted to make a part for an old discontinued rc. The part was extremely hard to find. Once I got a printer, it just let me to trying new stuff.

[@rickseiden1]

I saw the title of this video and knew it had to be resin printing.

[@ThePrintMint]

That cyber truck mouse is pretty cool ;) I gotta say I really do like the 3d printed kits that are out there these days with Bambu labs mouse and edamame headphones very cool stuff! Thanks for sharing the transparent print!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks for watching!

[@Gryfang451]

One of my first prints was a small unicorn figurine. I knew so little about FDM printing. When I got a newer printer recently, I re-printed the same model, at the same size, in the same color filament. I replaced the old one. I'm still waiting for my wife to notice. The old one was not great. Visible layer lines, rough bottom from supports that wouldn't come off. The new one is almost perfect. I figure that unicorn is now my Benchy. Stupid little boat ain't got nothing on it!

[@kitmarshall4084]

10 year wow time when by quick these past few years, I still have my prusa mk2s as my daily driver.

[@Samuwulf]

Spray it with glossy transparant varnish to make it more see-trough😉

[@hellcat1988]

For all those 90's kids who had the transparent phones, gameboys, and various other things because that was "cool" back then!

[@3DJapan]

That's very transparent, without even needing a clear coat! You must've used a very tiny layer height.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

0.05!

[@ImaginationToForm]

I had a Robo R1 Plus that I tried making a robot toy with but could not get it to print well. I'd like to try again someday with an IDEX printer that allowed for dissolvable filament.

[@onefishtwofish7319]

Did you remember to hit the parts with a clear coat of paint? It looked crystal clear when wet, I think a clear coat would have increased the effect by helping to make light penetrate evenly.

[@ironboy73]

I print all of my Star Trek Ships in Transparent/Clear Resin so that the light passes through the Warp Nacelles to create a glow!

[@awilliams1701]

In 2017 I made my first model (1979 enterprise) and it got me interested in 3d printing. I got my prusa mk3 in 2022. The bastards at work broke it while cleaning. So it needs to get reprinted. I'm going to try to do better as it's very easy to knock it off the base.

[@Shooter_FPV]

about 5 years ago I 3D printed an RC F1 car for my son. Printed it on a Monoprice Maker Select. It worked, but the quality was kinda gross, especially the tires printed with NinjaFlex. I know so much more now than 5 years ago, and have way better equipment. I may end up trying it again...

[@jamesjoens3298]

I made a Key to Time from classic Dr. Who on a printrbot simple metal. Might be time to redo it using some clearish resin...

[@thomaswakefield6889]

well shit thank you Formlabs for this transparent resin. Depending on the cost of the resin I can now work on my Master Chief cloaking armor project

[@mpedrozax1]

When I first started 3d printing over 10 years ago I just wanted to print in clear and glow in the dark. I have a makerbot dual extrusion clone but just stopped printing dealing with print and temp issues about 7 years ago. Although it looks like clear is now simpler, i just want glow in the dark now. Clear is awesome!

[@kyleo1236]

Glow in the dark has been around for a long time. I printed with glow in the dark abs probably 8 years ago.

[@mpedrozax1]

@@kyleo1236 so you have glow abs and pla... But you have clear resin but not glow resin and clear resin....

[@TheRealAirdoo]

I've printed the shape in my profile picture on every technology I've been able get my hands on. FDM, SLA, SLS, and CBAM'd CF-PEEK. ;) The only one that got away was BMD, the shape is very thin and I couldn't get it supported in the time I had access to a furnace.

[@slinkytrips]

I wonder if you can add subtle texture to it so you can have a frosted glass look to certain areas?

[@lasersterling]

Just starting resin printing headlight components for my McLaren!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Good choice!

[@JamesBrown-ex6iw]

There's a number of cosplay props I've been meaning to remake since doing them on a cr10 mini years ago

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Do it!

[@frownmastr]

Got super excited about transparent 3d printing....then realized it's resin, not actual "3d printing"

[@jonhaze7537]

Bambu is the win

[@BeefaloBart]

How about post processing to give it a really clear look in different methods. BTW as always thanks for the great videos.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I got my first 3D printer a couple years ago, but I got kind of hung up using it for a long time so I've only been printing since last November. Got an Ender 3 KE a couple months ago and I've been using it like crazy though, never go more than a few days without finding, or getting a request for something to print; even despite that though, I've even contemplated remaking some of the first things I did with the knowledge I have now (including new slicer[s]; since Cura, which I originally used, is so lacking..)

[@RelakS__]

prison tech at home :D (see Techmoan's transparent devices, like television, etc)

[@sinclairal]

Joel when are you going to do a review on the Form 4? I really want it but there no reviews anywhere

[@djtomoy]

Is a 2D printer a thing? Is it that thing they have in old timey offices that dribbles ink on white paper?

[@peterdocter4659]

Cool to see that it doesn't yellow, wonder what it does with longer uv exposure?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I’m going to make something and stick it outside for the summer and see what happens

[@peterdocter4659]

@@3DPrintingNerd Nice man, curious to see if it holds up well.

[@twinturbostang]

Will be interested to hear how durable it is. Some of the clear resins can be very brittle.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I thought that as well but so far so good with typical mouse usage

[@GiZmOSan00]

Wish I could reprint a FDM Zoro Statue I did for a buddy, bough a Saturn 8k but covid hit, lost job, home had to leave Austin and now stuck at parents with no space to set up a smelly resin printer :P The free Resin that came with the printer is about to expire too thats how long iv had the printer and not used it lol. Hopefully get to reprint it some day and send buddy a better quality Print than the FDM one he got. Printing and sanding them tiny swords was not easy :P and with them being filiment they just keep snaping. Hope to experiance Resin printing some day. Enjoy Printing

[@webdevvy]

I would love to reprint the parts for a Kossel and finally finish the kossel mini and the kossel xl :) i still have all the parts 🤡

[@djeeno]

all the fallout peeps having deep yearnings for Nuka Cola bottles

[@dmhayes6]

This looks sick!

[@bernardtarver]

Love how he leaves out any post-processing.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I did zero post on it. Like a rebel.

[@bernardtarver]

@@3DPrintingNerd Did the supports just vanish?

[@DangerousDac]

How well does the clear *last* though? Because post processing it looked visibly less clear than it did right off the build plate.

[@tenchuu007]

To get truly clear prints you have to sand them with decreasing levels of wet sand. It's laborious.

[@uberxgod]

Yeah, they fog up when they dry. You need to apply a clear coat non-yellowing polyurethane to give it back it's crystal clear transparency.

[@joetoeforsho]

I’ve been printing clear for years. It’s just really tricky to keep it clear after you wash and cure. I noticed alcohol is the only way to keep it clear.

[@Tubbyspark]

I'm just wondering if it is possible to print lenses for cameras or something.

[@b3nny90]

I wish you could do transparent fdm prints. The parts i want to do are far too big for sla printers

[@RSteel517]

first off... 3D Printing Nerd should revisit the big hairy lion and give him a multi color update. color his mane or something, but thats how i first found this channel.

[@RSteel517]

for me tho, i just got the P1S and im going to go back to a @ChaosCoreTech model i bought, the Godzilla and use my AMS to print it again.

[@PacNWTinkerer]

Hi Joel, I was talking to a guy at the Fromlabs booth at Open Sauce this last weekend and he mentioned the transparent resin comes out much more transparent if you skip the wash stage and go straight to cure... Something to try?

[@DERAILED3D]

that was me! i’ll be making a video about that soon :)

[@aronjaeger]

I'm gonna reprint the first thing that i printed with my new multicolor printer as soon as it arrives it was a creeper from minecraft that i 3d modeled myself

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That’s so awesome

[@jacklarkham7009]

Hi, awesome vid. I have a project idea for custom headlight for my custom 1980 ford cortina bbiuld I am working on and I want to make some custom rectangular headlights and I cannot find any headlights that would fit to replace the old ones.... long story short I was wondering could you potentially 3d print or resin print the custom lense of the headlight? If so what material should I use and what might be the best method? Cheers.

[@aracon9721]

I wonder how long this stays transparent. Usually such parts turn yellow-ish after a while no?

[@h0ll1s]

You'll have to add some RGB to it! Looks great

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That would be cool!

[@kalverstukas1414]

How much watertight is this for printing watercooling parts like distro plates, tubes etc.?

[@hypnotech83]

So as fun as you made it seem there's no mention on performance. Just because it looks cool and you can do it doesn't mean it should be readily deduced it's practical... PLA from FDM is a lot more forgiving and flexible than resin... Chances are after a couple of hundred clicks that thing will crack and break especially after a proper cure... PLA is still the best choice for this case

[@3DPrintingNerd]

So far a few hundred clicks and it’s just fine. People don’t realize how good resins can be. It’ll keep an eye on it though but I don’t anticipate it cracking. It’s really cool.

[@pauless7]

And I just miss one multicolor led inside and my jaw goes to the ground

[@rickblackwell6435]

Looking at the kit, it boggles the mind how few parts there are to a mouse….

[@garagemonkeysan]

Extra Fancy! ❤❤❤

[@istorm6887]

what is the brand/name of the device used for cleaning with the ipa?

[@hiasausmwoid1247]

I printed the Zelda breath of the wild sword project from adafruit incl. Led on my anycubic and glued it with the wrong material that turned out yellow 😮

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh noes but yay Zelda!

[@thomaswiley666]

Yay! Get to see how he printed something transparent! [Watches first 60 seconds of video] Oh, he used a $4500 USD machine to do it... never mind.

[@Burnt_clutch89]

If you clear coated it, it would have went a lot more transparent