Trash or Treasure: '05 GSX-R750 Rotors & Wheels Eval

[@DiagolonRider]

nothing warms the heart like brand new, well greased wheel bearings!!! everything rolls so nice!! back when i was working on cars I'd take a big gob of grease in the palm of my hand and work it all in the bearings till they were full!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Agreed. Thorough work and the results are very satisfying via a job well done.

[@888jackflash]

Good; but, suggestion? I work in bearing manufacture... to clean out the bearing I would spray it and hose it with air until very clean, (NOT allowing the bearing to spin fast when dry, as will damage the races), Then, check for race damage: spritz a very little WD40 in between the balls, then hold the hub up in vertical position (the way it sits in the bike) by one/two fingers inside the bearing inner ring, and spin the hub at moderate speed, looking to feel for CLICKS (ball denting) or GRINDING (raceway scoring/remaining dirt). Repeat cleaning if necessary... if clicks/grinding remain, time for a new one. Also- most modern automotive-level bearings come out of the factory with 30-35% inner-capacity grease-fill...(commonly Chevron SRI #2 grease, the best). Dave's fill amount looks close enough. Leaving grease in the seal-groove is not recommended; if all is clean it should ease-in smoothly. Also - for the rubber dampers I like silicone spray rather than grease, or rubber. Less chance of accumulating dirt later. But.. Good Stuff, Dave... Thanks.

[@t800_1]

The laws of physics don't apply to Dave. Dave knows all.

[@saltyprocrastinator]

Brilliant, thanks for the educational insight!

[@Matt-we7si]

for the cost of brand new quality bearings , I dont know why he didn't replace them , especially on a track bike, and looking at the condition of that bike, I'd want to replace a lot of stuff with brand new

[@903assengsxr7]

Are ceramic bearings ok for street use

[@888jackflash]

@@903assengsxr7 Honestly, I have little experience with ceramic bearings. My best understanding is that they are used in situations where conductivity/magnetism or corrosion would be an issue. While they are purported to be very smooth-running, I could see issues with brittleness under hash automotive/motorcycle applications. Outside of NASA (or perhaps MotoGP tech?), I see no reason why ceramic would be significantly better than 52100 chrome steel, the material of which all top Automotive/Motorcycle-style bearings are made. I'm quite sure the difference in "performance" would be negligible. Stay with good, top-brand-named (Timkin/NTN/FAG, etc.) "EMQ" (Electric Motor Quality) 52100 steel bearings and you'll be close enough to the pinnacle. ALSO- "ABEC" is vastly misunderstood; people consider it a level of QUALITY when it simply refers to the tightness of the tolerances. Also, the "C" designation refers to the radial clearance between the ball and raceway components... the "slop" if you will. "C0" is "Standard".. C3 is common in automotive. BEST- Stay with your factory OEM call-out, they did their homework the best.

[@garybee1578]

Pretty sure that bearing didn't move at 36 min. It can be very hard to tell as the races are so smooth that when greased it feels like they're turning them when in reality your fingers are just sliding around the inner race. If you watch closely you can see a couple of marks on the inner race that don't move when you are checking it.

[@pawelwis7215]

Thats why for me everything what is measured by finger is worth shit. You can easy commit a mistake. The rule with bearing is simple, every time You see a bearing, replace it without wasting Your time for checking it`s condition. They are very cheap so why not

[@mbsevans]

Don’t use a Dremel for cleaning off thread locker. Put a BRASS wire wheel in a drill press. Run the press at its fastest speed, wear a good pair of leather work gloves and hold those threads into the brass wheel, FAR faster and efficient and less wear on threads.

[@SavageSonny]

I learned that i need new cush drives, I replaced my front and back sprockets and chain and seen there is lots of play in the old ones. The old sprocket was so worn that the teeth on it were sharp and bent all facing the same direction. Thank you man!

[@JT-fd3tf]

I've been riding street & occasional track for 25 years and never re-packed the grease on the rear wheel bearings. Dave gives so many tips here, so casually, where I'm learning something every minute. I feel like I've been stumbling in the dark. :)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for your comment! If there's good information out there, we all take on tasks we can do and then pay for those we cannot. That way time is well spent and we can accomplish a great deal on our own. That in turn creates great pride in ownership and in cleaning brake calipers with a toothbrush and soapy water - a simple task like that can give you more confidence when you ride.

[@mbsevans]

This clown isn’t giving you good advice.

[@mbsevans]

You do NOT use a tap or die to clean threads. You use a THREAD CHASER kit.

[@hazimreitz]

This guy is probably the reason I'm going to rebuild my calipers. What a chap!!! Knowledge that potentially could save lives. I know it might sound cheesy.. but when you only have the go and not the stop, the track ends eventually.

[@H-M-78]

It works fine to heat the bolts with a heat gun to burn the loctite, it just falls off. Heat gun also works to get the seals out. And fork seals by warming the outside of the tube. About 70 celcius is enough.

[@MarkOByrne152]

Hey Dave, thanks for the Video, I have exactly the same bike and did exactly what you are doing about two years ago. Trash or Treaure? you already know, absolute GOLD! Superb bike. However , and I pray that I am wrong, @35.45 you check the front wheel bearing, it doesn't move at all! The video is very clear, excellent camera man ; -) i've replayed many times, and Im sure you will agree watching back the video, the inner race of the bearing doesn't move at all when you attempt to rotate it. It appears to be seized.

[@Phazestarts]

Seemed the same to me, no bearing rotation at all.

[@SickPrid3]

21:25 i always use syringe to do this. You can easily squirt the grease in the holes until it comes out by itself. Much quicker and cleaner than punching it with fingers 😁

[@terryeisler6337]

I really enjoy all your videos, and respect Dave's knowledge. Bravo. Not always the way I approach things, but that is probably why the majority of us are here, to learn new things. Also love the photo of 34 on the tool chest! Two great talents together. I call that a win!

[@henrikforsberg683]

There usually is a lot of different ways to do a job, so it’s interesting to see if there is a better way than how i do it! 🤔😀 and pick up some tricks from others experiences.

[@atatopatato]

Hi mr Moss, @ 29:48 correct me if I'm wrong. I think the reason for packing the outer dust seal with grease is to keep water and other stuff from entering and sitting between the sealed bearing and the dust seal. If water goes in it will find the way through the bearing.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

100% correct if you have an open face bearing. The bearings in the GSXR wheel are sealed with th orange plastic cover and that is what for me, created some confusion.

[@atatopatato]

@@catalystreactionsbw I thought that this principle applies to sealed bearings as well. In theory water can get through the dust seal and sit between the dust seal and the sealed bearing corroding the area and maybe working its way through the sealed bearing (if that's a possibility). Sorry for not making myself clear in the first post.

[@sjc2965]

Great video. Also rubber grease only should be used on anything made of rubber.

[@nismo300zr2]

my BIKE! thank you for keeping it relevant! going to go hunt down all your other 750 vids after this!

[@duncanskeet3167]

Been messing with bikes for over 40 years. Never seen such a fucking meal made out of what should be a 30 second job of popping a seal out with a screwdriver.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Fore you, of course that is tedious. For those wanting to do this for the first time..... step by step is necessary to build confidence.

[@SteveCardiff]

In all my years i've never known anyone use heat to remove or replace simple dust seals. And if you're gonna remove them why not just replace the bearings for just a few bucks anyway?? Love your suspension work though Dave, you're a Jedi Master of the dark art :)

[@denchua]

Probably didn't have a bearing puller and installer on hand.

[@SteveCardiff]

@@denchua Not needed for wheel bearings. Knock them out from the back with an old screwdriver, and tap them back in using the edges of the outer race of the old bearings. I do have a set of bearing pullers for just this, but really, you don't need them. And I find the seals come out with less damage if you use something wider than a screwdriver ie a tyre lever.

[@Pizzaesser]

...and if you change the left bearing, you also change the right bearing too. Why? Because it did the same number of revolutions as the already worn out bearing. Same for seals of 2stroke crankshafts, forks seals....and so on. Call me Captain Obvious, but otherwise you will end up repairing your unreliable bike every weekend.

[@SteveCardiff]

...and that bearing at 36:00 wasn't even turning :(

[@thelatenightwrench5666]

@@SteveCardiff haha I came here to see if anyone else saw that too

[@tomquinn607]

Dude. You're in good shape! That's some hard work well done.

[@shamrock-]

There are 2 more options to getting rid of old loctite. Acetone, or Loctite solvent. 768 X-NMS™ Clean-Up Solvent.

[@dannytheplumber7394]

Great video with lots of hands on information. My comment/advice on honing with that device is a flat stable set-up like a drill press.

[@grahamhaftka5288]

Thans Dave your videos are top notch you are fussy like me in doing the job right .and keeping parts sqeeky clean .you have taught me alot from your videos.thanks again appreciate 💯

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for taking the time to post and I appreciate your support!

[@steffenthomsen6170]

When you polish move longer and faster - don't dig in the low area remove the high area until the low are getting smaller and disappeared - then you get a flat surface -

[@bobz1b]

great stuff, even little tips like putting the 90 degree to the riders right away from side stand, enjoying all these vids

[@journeywithjekyll2873]

I'm learning alot... thanks for sharing this process!!!

[@motorcyclegarage2307]

It’s much more fun than putting sealed bearing in. Great job Dave. I always run the sprocket /bearing on my finger , you can feel the slightest of degradation of the bearing as it puts a slight loading on the bearing

[@livewire..]

From SKF you can get a good USA or Japan made bearing with seals for about $15.00. The bearing should have been replaced.

[@chadkline4268]

Before people consider buying a used bike, they should deduct the cost of a total rebuild, as this video demonstrates.

[@sendit2873]

I never use heat on seals since it is getting replaced I just pry them out but sometimes it makes it easier to put a little wd or pb blaster around the outer edge if anyone gets a bike from Dave at least you know it will be in top shape as far as everything lol great job explaining everything Dave I have learned alot from your videos

[@H-M-78]

1. Full video 👍

[@russdanner2856]

GREAT! Just been going through all of this on my winter maint.

[@abexlvii6269]

I know this might seems weird... To make it easier to install the sprocket back on the wheel, I use brake cleaner.... I know it sounds weird, but it never failed.

[@VictorCruz-yh4tb]

So clean! Amazing work.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you!

[@ribbit876]

Dave you know those old beam type torque wrenches are the most accurate:-)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Good to know Mr. Appel!

[@paulhewson4600]

Take to the sandblaster in the back ground and use medium media to clean then measure,,,then hone?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If we used the sand blaster it would be a long blow out with compressed air then clean with rubbing alcohol.

[@paulhorvath9784]

On the Rotor you're better of using 800-1000 Grit Paper In a wooden Block to get a Level smooth and Clean Surface.. By Hand.

[@Xeno8086]

Can sealed wheel bearings be repacked with grease ? I've seen videos where the seal is taken off. I've had the rear wheel bearing on my Ninja 650 disintegratre after a 8000 km trip and half of that was offroad-gravel like surface. Total kms done on those bearings was about 38,000 kms. I'm wondering why did the bearing fail with nearly all the bearing balls fell out, stranding the bike. Would greasing the bearing before the trip helped ?

[@henrikforsberg683]

Did you check the wheel bearings before that trip? U could probably feel some side to side movement of the wheel if u did that, and that means the bearings are getting worn out. Putting new grease in might have helped, but it has to be done before its getting worn out.

[@DarkIzo]

3 months late but even if you already have your answer, ill leave this here for future readers its quite common for new bearings to wear out if you install them incorrectly. on motorcycle wheels you have a center spacer, that sits between the two bearings. it is essential, that this spacer is installed correctly, as to allow the axle to position itself easily, so that the inner races of the bearings arent pulled out of the bearing, when the axle is tightened and are instead tightened against said spacer. if you leave too much space when installing the second bearing, or if you push it in too tight, it will lock the spacer in place and push against the inner race, prematurely wearing the bearings out. best to do some research, but as a quick tip: if your the spacer is tight, but you can still move it with finger pressure, then your bearings are ready to go

[@ioandragulescu6063]

@35:57 shouldn't the silver inner ring of the bearing actually be visibly rotating ? like it did on the back wheel ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The inner bearing on the rear wheel is a bushing that makes up the gap between the wheel bearing and cush drive bearing. The spacer for the front wheel is locked in by the wheel bearing, then the outer spacer stays locked in place by axle tension.

[@ioandragulescu6063]

@@catalystreactionsbw that's too much "bearing speach" for my knowlegde but I'll try to translate, tnx :)

[@SaqibKhaliq]

Another great episode. Really learning something here, thank you 🙏🏽

[@GGj-q9k]

Hi Dave where did you get the polishing pad for the brake discs? I don't find it in Germany. Can you order the die in the USA?

[@carolemould1428]

Hi Dave will you be doing anything with mupo suspension ant time soon heard a lot of good feedback, very popular in Italy being used by British super bike teams in 2021 thanks for your channel

[@catalystreactionsbw]

We see very little of it here in the US and what I have see is just the base fork kit and shock. Valving has been the #1 concern with no technical data here. However with BSB, tech support is a lot more in depth hence that product being used in the paddock. They have been around for a while but struggle to get a market share here largely due to technical and product support. .

[@pedrosousa7493]

Hey Dave! Hope all is going well! Regarding the flex-hone, what is your verdict on it? Is it worthy for the task or it is just a fancy tool that's not worthy to get and you can get the same results with a bit more "elbow grease"? Keep up the good work!

[@alanbrown5593]

Would it not be beneficial to balance the wheel, first without any discs/tyre, then with discs refitted, this way you know that any subsequent issues relate to the new tyre rather than the wheel or discs being the cause for any out of balance issues. Also, put the bearings and seals for 30 minutes in the freezer, the slight reduction in diameter along with the slight increase in the housing (through heat) allows them to just drop in. Having just done a friends rear wheel bearings, on her ER6F, someone had previously packed them with Copper grease. Scary.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

We are filming a series of variations with this process this week, so you must be reading or minds :)

[@alanbrown5593]

@@catalystreactionsbw Does this make me an honorary Dave ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@alanbrown5593 Sure!!!!!

what old do you recommend to refresh bearing seals, grase and rubber inside ?

[@spiloFTW]

Why not buy new bearings when you have it already apart?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

We were trying to keep the rebuild expense to a minimum to follow a set pathway for filming. Everyone has their own budget and therefore will replace all parts they deem to be appropriate.

[@HighGrade_FireBlade]

Does honing your brake discs like that make a difference in braking power?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Honing a disc removes all the high spots of old brake pad material so you have a much better consistent contact patch at all times.

[@craigwilson5573]

wow, that took about 3 times longer than it needed to.ive never seen bearing seal put in with a spanner handle....wow

[@uses0ap]

23:25 bless you

[@Aladinscave]

Just my 2 cents, I would stick the brake disks in a lathe and spin them so I get a more controlled and even grind if you don’t have a lathe make a friend..... or get new ones that’s what I would do....

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for your 2 cents, plenty of ways to get something done and I appreciate you contributing!

[@viperxbr]

Hey Dave! Hope all is well. Quick question, what level of grit was the flex-hone? I've got to re-do the bedding of my new EBC XC rotors as I've developed a hot spot on the first try which now causes it pulsate when I stop. So I want to get this hone tool to complete this task. I know they have fine, medium and coarse. Just curious what you used and maybe what you would recommend in my case? Cheers, Todd.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. We used the coarse.

[@viperxbr]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Mr. Williams!

[@viperxbr]

@@catalystreactionsbw Just curious, how long did that flex-hone tool last? I bought one off of Amazon and it started disintegrating after starting the first side of the second rotor. Basically it lasted 1.5 rotors. Junk!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@viperxbr We did all the rotors and it is still in great shape.

[@viperxbr]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for the info Dave! Fortunately I was able to finish the set with what was left. It must of been a defective tool.

[@julleboy90]

Great video. Where Can i buy that grinder too discbrake?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

www.flexhoneblog.com/2012/01/flexible-honing-for-motorcycle-brake.html

[@julleboy90]

thanks for answer. What rotor do you buy fine ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@julleboy90 stainless steel rotors from Galfer is my choice, or EBC #2

[@pedrosousa7493]

Hi Dave, which grit you used? 60,120 or 240? Thanks

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@pedrosousa7493 BRM Flex-Hone for rotors 60Z #1525 Coarse

[@diegolainfiesta]

For all the time invested, I would have changed the bearings too. The time invested already is too big.

[@888jannn]

Nice job...👏👏👏👏👍

[@dennisvonguzzi-moto6231]

Where can I get a torque wrench like yours.? Analogue for life.!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Here's one example. Pricepoint will have a bearing on accuracy. www.globaltestsupply.com/product/gearwrench-2955n-beam-torque-wrench

[@NoNegotiations]

How do you know if it's not warped or not?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

You spin it and put a screwdriver close to it and watch for wobble.

[@thehobbyguy]

Omg what we're you doing to that doc brake!! Get an orbital sander on it

[@K-so8gx]

It is possible to get the seals out of sealed bearings and re grease them.

[@bikerboi1983]

for a £5 bearing... you mad? just replace it

[@K-so8gx]

@@bikerboi1983 was just saying you can, it can extend there life for a bit if you don't want to change them!

[@bikerboi1983]

@@K-so8gx you can't clean the old grease out and properly repack them though. if the bearings are still in good shape its best not to try it. if they are old or worn then just replace them. problem with what dave is doing is those big seals he is changing which get damaged during removal probably cost more than a pair of new skf bearings! so if you are removing those types of wheel seals, replace the bearings!

[@nismo300zr2]

what grit is the hone you are using?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. It's a BRM "Flex-Hone For Rotors 60Z #1525 Coarse". BRM is not a sponsor. We bought it on Amazon, who is also not a sponsor. Neither is the forest by the same name. But I think the forest is suing Jeff Bezos for trademark violation. Probably tacked on defamation too for good measure.

[@zweispurmopped]

You should have said "Click!" on reaching the right torque. Many of your viewers will sit awake in bed the night after watching this as their OCD was triggered. ^^)

[@foxtrot789]

I just use the next bolt to clean up the excess ;)

[@dogyouare]

Don't use tap but a thread chaser.

[@jwshoptime.jeeprepairpleas8552]

This apro shop theres got to be a better way

[@stephenbrowy9825]

A17 yr bike don't go cheap change the bearing..

[@wobblysauce]

Toque is Toque, just a different applicator.

[@villelaalo8775]

Why not just change bearings...

[@catalystreactionsbw]

We did :)

[@chadkline4268]

I don't see the sense in cleaning brake discs. The brake pads do that well enough. If necessary, I'd just spin the wheel on the bike with some fine grit sandpaper held to both sides. I also don't see the sense in removing ALL the Loctite off a bolt with a Dremel tool. It's enough to just twist it around and get the loose stuff off.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

This video will provide more undrestanding. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKvTl36HaLSIgNk

[@chadkline4268]

@@catalystreactionsbw ok, but that video doesn't prove that pad-to-embedded-pad-on-the-disc has less stopping power than pad-to-disc stopping power. The frictional coefficient may be even better with bits of the pad embedded on the disc than pure metal.

[@javasoldier5926]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3_EdYGHaZuDebs - bearing is not move but also not spin - looks like it is not functional anymore and need to be replaced...

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Revisiting the bearings on every wheel in the next video with no gloves on and no grease on my fingers. We will film that investigation also.

[@proto7688]

Why wouldn't you just buy new rotors?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The rotors measure out as being in tolerance. As that is the case there is no need to spend money on new rotors.

[@proto7688]

@@catalystreactionsbw oh I didn't even know that is a possibility, learning so much from these videos , thanks!

[@ryanmcginty1453]

NO NO NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@togglehead9738]

Blowtorch just to get seals out! totally unnecessary in my opinion, they just flip out with a screwdriver. And when you do use the screwdriver please have something underneath to protect the surface. A lot of potential for inexperienced people watching this vid to do major damage to their nice painted wheels.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

What would you suggest? Shop towel, microfiber towel? What thickness would be required in your opinion as adequate based on your technique?

[@togglehead9738]

@@catalystreactionsbw I'd probably use a piece of wood but anything really, just don't think its good practice to lever against any part of a bike like that without protection, especially on ally.

[@beltitovillanuevareyes6885]

😆😆😆😂😂😂💪🏼🔥🔥🔥❤️👍🏼

[@progaragechinskiemotorki]

Po polsku xD