Triple Z Bed Levelling for Your Cube 3D Printer

[@antlu65]

This was a great presentation! 👍👍 Clear explanation and well-paced.

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Thanks Anthony! Glad it was helpful!

[@TryHardPajamas]

Phenomenal video, I will definitely have to watch your other content! While it can be fun to over-engineer something, it is great to see a cost optimized solution to the problem. I have been thinking about turning my Tronxy into a Voron 1.8 for fun, but I think this might be a better option. I like how the design would allow for an enclose as well. It appears the only clearance issue with an enclosure would be the z-motors. This could be fixed by shifting the extrusions up, and just using some 2020 extrusions below the extrusions used for mounting the motors. This would then give you a flat bottom while only losing a few cm in z height. The only concern with the design is the magnetic cups. I am not sure if you have had any issue, but if one point tilts, the other points will have to move inward. That is why most tripple leveling systems use little rods that the balls can slide on. I haven't done the math to see if it is enough movement to cause the balls to pop out of the cups, but would be curious to know if you have had any issues.

[@MassiveOxyotl]

I would like to try this on my Franken-Ender 5. Much simpler and elegant than the other solutions out there in the wild.

[@alexiben6871]

Awesome video man I'm going to come up with a design similar to yours.

[@pyro1596]

I've been working on a printer design incorporating this bed style for a while. I chose to use two aligned dowel pins instead of the cup magnet for the bed. Let it slide instead of lift when it tilts too far. It has a 330x600x10mm bed along with two silicone heaters. I have to test them since I trimmed the sides of the heaters

[@kimberlyrandle1934]

I love all the cute things in your background :)

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

I think you might be biased! But I appreciate it.

[@Happy3dprinting]

This video is superb, I am about to fit my ender 5+ with a BTT octopus v1.1 board to start me down this road. I already run klipper on this printer but skr mini e3 v3 that I fitted obviously can’t run independent z motors. Just the basic dual z control would help as the z stepper motors go out of sync and I am forever adjusting for this and want a lazy option to automate the process. It’s really interesting to see the triple z build you have and that would be a great end goal for me. To keep updated I have subscribed and liked the video 👍 great work and thank you.

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Thanks Steve! The Octopus is a great board and there's really no reason to go with anything smaller given the price. Just a tip, there is no short circuit protection on the endstop connectors - so if you plug in a 2 pin connector and accidentally plug it into the +5/- pins instead of the -/s pins you will fry the board almost immediately when the switch activates. It's an east mistake to make and I now make sure to use only 3 pin connectors with no +5 wire pulled into them so I don't accidentally fry another board. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

[@Happy3dprinting]

@@LilMikeysBigPlans I didn’t know about the end stop issue, big thank you for that. I am up and running with the octopus and independent z-steppers with tilt adjust working great. Now I have the basic machine built and running with a mainboard that can facilitate more complex functionality. Now onto triple z 😂. I’ll let you know how it goes 👍

[@airheadbit1984]

And last year Twotrees dropped the SK1 (all linear axes), this year Sovol dropped the SV08 with 4 Z axes control with moving XY gantry and fixed bed allowing for a one machine multi-toolhead that can print, laser, route and pick and place. Time marches on and my bank account keeps shrinking.

[@gamer1206]

Would this work with the x5sa 400? I did a lot of your mods to my printer, including the linear rails upgrade. My printer is an old x5sa 400 from 3 or 4 years old with the old v5 board. Keep up the good work, I love that you put the files for download. Next mod is going to be Octopus pro with 2209 stepper drivers with klipper on my pi4. I know, over kill on a pi4, but that's what I have on hand already.

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Hey Aaron. Yes, the system should work on an X5SA however there are some complications. First, the threaded rods that come with the X5SA is much shorter than the smooth rods. They might not be long enough given the size of the frame. You'll also need to find a solution for the thing bed platform. It's already not very sturdy and going from four to three points won't do it any favors. Can be fixed with a couple cheap 2020 extrusions though. The X5SA also already has some frame stability problems and they use the smooth rods for reinforcement. Might want to upgrade to some aluminum corners or similar if you haven't already. I'm running an Octopus on one printer and an SKR on the other with an Octopus waiting to go in. It's a great board for the cost!

[@jazzboy]

Amazing!!! Will definitely try this.

[@bogdan90x]

Really nice video. So really new in 3d printing. And bed leveling is a masive B. Now for example i have setup all as it should, but sometimes during movement, it sound like its scratching the precious layer. My question is, you said it should work with cube shape printers, i haave an ender 5 plus, will this work? Second, can it be used with Instanity Automation?

[@christianmontagx8461]

Hypercube FTW :)

[@PaganWizard]

Do you have a link for the STL you used as a phone/tablet holder??

[@Wala_Wang]

At 5:30 you talk about mounting the threaded rods to a bearing with a belt instead of directly to the motor. Are there any benefits of doint that?

[@christopherwhitcomb6233]

Nice video. I’m doing triple z now. The style with linear rails. This is the first I seen linear rods used. Wish I saw this before I started my conversion. I am also using the octopus pro. Do you have any tips on compiling? I’m assuming I don’t use g34 for leveling?

[@maximusdecimus2350]

Mike, I really enjoy the details and content on your channel. I am on month 3 of owning the X5SA 400-Pro and it is a love/hate relationship, more love then anything however I knew what I was getting into from reading others reviews. I recently upgraded my bed to a Aluminum tool plate sourced online and am still seeing issues (in the same corner mind you) with my Tronxy so I am taking it down for service and found this video which makes me really consider doing this on my machine. I feel as if the code for the firmware gives us users problems as it seems I can never get the bed in the + side no matter how many times I adjust. Any tips? Either way thank you for the content and sharing your knowledge, subscribed and noti's are on, keep it coming!

[@gamer1206]

I've owned my x5sa for 3 or 4 years and I learned the problems it has. My buddy just got his x5sa 330 6 months ago. One thing I learned is to use 2 of the same objects or print out Mike's top hat covers and hand lower the bed flat on that. 1. Hand level the bed using sheet of paper. 2. Auto level, as it will remember the last auto level you did and it will try and compensate for it and will not print flat. 3. Z offset. 4. Watch your print stick :)

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Hello Maximus and thanks for watching! It's unusually to consistently have leveling issues in only one corner. As Aaron pointed out, the left/right tilt is a big problem on this printer but the stepper hats can help take care of that. However if you've fixed the tilt, leveled the bed, and then just one corner goes out of whack, well, that's a weird problem. I would suspect one of two things. First, the sensor that comes with the X5SA is pretty terrible. If the corner you're having issues with is near the electronics or even the outlet the printer is plugged into the EMI might be thrown the sensor off in just that corner. You can maybe play with the position of the printer/controller/wiring and see if it helps. Second, the X5SA bed platform is pretty flimsy and if you put a heavier plate on it that's probably only exacerbating the problem. You could build a more sturdy platform from 2020 and see if that gets you anywhere - and those extrusions would still be useful if you decided to further mod the printer. I would prefer to see the smooth rods on the X5SA pushed out closer to the bed corners as well. Good luck and feel free to shout if there's anything I can help with.

[@maximusdecimus2350]

@@gamer1206 I appreciate the advice and this helps me resolve the "what is the real way to prep my bed before printing?". I figured that it would not remember the last abl procedure when starting a new one, which would cause all the headaches and also about the when do I input a z offset....I just got done doing some maintenance on the printer and will give this a go! I do have some hats btw so I'll throw them back on and still using the stock build plate as I am waiting on other components to complete the install but glad I made the purchase of a tooling plate.

[@maximusdecimus2350]

@@LilMikeysBigPlans Well I never though about the EMI effecting the ABL sensor and unfortunately the corner is furthest away from any electronics, I was starting to think the Z-support arms were bent. I do have the Tronxy Z sync "upgrade" installed and measured the gap on each side to ensure they were level (got it about .01 identical). I just tore a bit of the machine down and ensured it was all square and tight but really looking to upgrade to remediate any leveling issues so in anticipation of building a structure for the top when I enclose the printer I ordered some 2020 extrusions just in case I need to use them as bed supports. I'll report back with any updates on the issue as I run a test but on the ABL sensor for this 2020 model. Does anyone know of the proper height it should be and what would be a better choice as a replacement? Thanks everyone for their advice and time, wish me luck!

[@grbii916]

What drivers are you using on Bigtreetech Direct Octopus V1.1?

[@carlton997]

Will this design work with a TronXY x5sa 400?

[@artefakt3d300]

Good explained, i want to build my own designed cube printer with also tripple z leveling and i have the btt ocropus v1.1 too. Do you recommend Marlin or Klipper for that function to use? I am not sure between those 2 firmware. Thank you forwarding

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Hello Artefakt. I'm a big fan of klipper especially on custom printers where you'll be tweaking things all of the time. It's much easier to change a config setting and restart klipper than build a new Marlin firmware and upload. Marlin was a bit easier to understand when I was first getting into printing though and there's nothing stopping you from trying both :) Good luck!

[@artefakt3d300]

@@LilMikeysBigPlans To be honest, i have viewed your video and was happy that you using threaded rods instead of ballscrews like other youtubers doing. it is maybe good option but they are too expensive. thanks for the hints with the firmware, i think i will try both like you said because i want to know like you the differences and the problematics of both systems. i have planed to make a cube style printer with 2x heatbed parallel (seperate powersupplys for board and heatbed on the octopus) connected and mosfet behind the board so it has 400mmx800mm heatbed and i have 3x 8mm leadscrews and 3x linear rails like you but i want to have the printhight at 1000mm (1meter). i hope my construction with the heatbed will carry the weight of the prints later.

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

@@artefakt3d300 Yeah, ballscrews and linear rails are more robust and I'm looking into those for a CNC I'm working on but for a relatively small 3D printer they feel like over kill. Now your 400x800x1000 volume might need something a bit more heavy duty :) Maybe a belt system (like Voron) that's counter-weighted to handle the massive plates? Would love to see what you end up building!

[@TitoSabbyPH]

Can this be done on an Ender 6?

[@DeprisaDryICeBLasting]

Can you convert tronxy to triple z ??

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

Ya, you should be able to. I have all of the parts printed and purchased to convert mine but haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm a little concerned with the length of the threaded rods since they sit on top of steppers that sit on top of the extrusions. The direct drive carriage in my print system (lilmikey.com/printersystem/index.html) hangs lower so shouldn't be a problem but it might not reach high enough for bowden setups.

[@TalkingGIJoe]

I see you list items to print but no link on where to find the files?

[@LilMikeysBigPlans]

There is a link to printables with all of the parts at the bottom of the description.