Tronxy Bed Leveling Sensors 3dprinter upgrade tronxy klipper

[@stevefeldman6486]

Hey Jeff, I posted a while back on one of your Tronxy XY-2 Pro videos and told you my experience with the Tronxy XY-2 Pro was less than desirable. My bed level sensor read so inconsistently that there was no hope of getting a good first layer. I adjusted the sensor to ensure it was perfectly parallel with the build plate and moved it to the lowest position it could be without putting it below the nozzle tip and that didn't help at all. Between probes, the readings varied as much as 1/2 mm from what it probed previously at the same position. There was one position where the sensor wouldn't detect the bed until the nozzle was dug into the bed. Additionally, after a long print, homing the printer always resulted in the nozzle smashing into the bed. The only way I was able to print anything successfully was to blow out the saved probed values reverting to default, manually leveling the build plate, then, usually between 3 to 5 starts of a print, my nozzle would be positioned at a distance where the first layer of the model would print successfully. When I began 3D printing with these FDM printers, I would watch the first layer religiously without stepping away until the start of the second layer. When I became adept enough at manual bed leveling, I began starting prints and walking away before each of the printers reached operating temperature and not give it a second thought. The condition of my Tronxy just made it too frustrating to use if any of 5 other printers were idle. I put the Tronxy under the table and I think I'd used it only once in the year I moved it there. My intention was to equip that printer with an actual end stop switch for the Z so I could level it and have consistent first layers. I never got around to it, so the printer had set mostly idle all this time. I watched this video where I learned Tronxy had a replacement sensor that read density rather than relying on hall effect, and that you purchased the sensor with a glass build plate. Bare glass is my favorite surface to print on, followed by lattice glass which I have on my Anycubic i3 Mega, the original Ultrabase, and the Creality Ultrabase clone that's on my CTC A-10S. On Tronxy's site, the sensor itself was $25.00, or for $50.00, I could have the lattice glass and sensor. I bought the pair because Ideally I would be printing on glass, and the non standard 255mm X 255mm size of the Tronxy's bed made the $25.00 upgrade worthwhile. While I think whatever Tronxy did to the lattice side of the glass is disgraceful, the bare glass backside works great. The lattice side has some brushed on finish that does not allow for easy removal of models once they've cooled down, like the Anycubic Ultrabase. To be fair, my Creality lattice glass on the CTC printer doesn't release models easily on occasion once they've cooled, so I use the bare side of that glass for most models I print, but flip it if I'm printing a model that has low surface area contact on initial layers, and I'll probably do the same with the Tronxy. The new sensor works perfectly with both the new glass build plate and the old fiberglass build plate. The Tronxy XY-2 Pro is an outstanding value in terms of construction, design, and materials. On paper, it's a superior Ender 3 that was cheaper than Ender 3's at the time I bought it. The included mainboard with the silent stepper drivers is pretty fantastic. I wanted for the Tronxy to be a printer I could recommend to people who were considering starting 3D printing, but given the experience I had with mine, I not only wouldn't recommend it to anyone, but I wouldn't pawn a printer that sits idle 99.9% of the time on to anyone else. Had the Tronxy been my first experience in 3D printing, I would have stopped long ago... While it would be preferable to me to have an actual micro switch for the Z end stop, I must admit that the new black sensor has me thinking I should move one of my other printers under the table and moving the Tronxy to a more easily accessible location. People tend to either love the Tronxy XY-2 Pro, having nothing but praise for it, or end up with one that has a faulty bed leveling sensor, and have nothing good to say about it. Having began with the Tronxy with nothing good to say about it, I can say that after sinking $50.00 into it, I'm more than pleased with it. If Tronxy would just do a little quality control on their products, I think the XY-2 Pro would be worthy of recommendation over comparable machines. A working sensor and glass build plate make the XY-2 Pro a fantastic printer, but the $50.00 cost to upgrade puts it's overall price above most of the Ender 3's. I just wanted to thank you for bringing the new sensor and glass combo to my attention. I actually like my Tronxy now.😁 P.S. I'm really digging the spool holder you use on your Tronxy's. 😀

[@Antrim3d]

Greetings from SE Ohio Jeff. 😁My tronxy x5sa pro 400 kit arrives tomorrow, and as such, I've been scouring KZbin for all the tronxy related content that I could find. That's when I found your channel. As I'm also considering klipper in the future as one of the many upgrades I plan for this machine, I found you and your informative channel most helpful. 👍🏻 Thanks again! -Eric

[@jeandread]

Mine arrived past week, first thing I've made was installing Klipper... Stock fw is a bag os sh*t!

[@Rob_Gater]

You need a resistor drop string to limit the voltage to the input pin and not a diode, that is just a "one way valve". You would put two resistors in series from the 24v signal pin to ground and where the two resistors connect, that becomes the tap off point for the 5v signal to go into the board. In a simple circuit like that you would have a low current flow limit to say 1ma. So Rtotal for 1mA flow is I=V/R is 24/22700 ohms= ~1mA. 24v feed to get to 5v you need 20% of 24v. Therefore R2=use a 4700 ohm (preferred values) to give R1 will be 18000 ohms (preferred values). This gives Rtotal using preffered values that you can easily get from (radioshack in US or Jaycar in AUS for us) etc. of 22.7K ohms which will give a current of (I=24/22700) which is ~1mA. Voltage at the r1/r2 junction to ground will be (vR2=I*R) = 0.001*4700= ~4.7v. If this level is applied to the input of the board which is a TTL input (max 5v) it should work fine. p.s. Sorry if this has already been discussed, just found this video and thought I would throw my 2 cents in. :) speaking of which, those two resistors should only cost a few cents each.

[@jeffs3dcorner]

It's about learning and starting conversation. That's how we get better.

[@Rob_Gater]

@@jeffs3dcorner .....also, I forgot to say, thankyou for your content. It's awesome and helped me turn this printer around as it never ran properly from purchase.

[@sinusshephard5314]

Is the black one a plug in replacement for the blue one without any mods?

[@guythejedi]

how would you go about adding the black sensor in Marling say for an Ender 3 SKR E3 V2.0?

[@jeandread]

My SKR 1.4 Turbo arrives tomorrow, my X5SA Pro has the black sensor... So... I can just plug in terminal in bltouch/probe/servos connector? Or I misundestood? Thanks!!

[@ydeardorff]

What is the pin out on the black tr sensor?

[@ydeardorff]

How do you install the tr sensor? Distance to build plate vs nozzle distance?

[@jesusg.8204]

Can you show or add a video on how you wired the black sensor to your SKR board? I though the probe/BLtouch ports only supplied 5v, but it seems the black sensor needs 24v to work.

[@maiorciprian]

you can get 24v directly from the PSU; the black signal wire and the blue ground wire you hook up to the Z-endstop plug or the Probe pins, depending how you have your firmware setup. The sensor will work on 5v as well but the sensing distance will be greatly reduced, to the point that it may not trigger before the nozzle touches the bed.

[@jeandread]

​@@maiorciprian Thanks for info! I'm preparing to use a SKR, arrive tomorrow...

[@satan4768]

I got the black sensor works well so far

[@jujucattys156]

wich plug play Sensor wood recommend with mirror bed ps in uk

[@jirikaspar238]

BTW I am wondering why you keep talking about some kind of diode? The simplest solution to reduce output signal voltage from 24V to 5V is a voltage divider with resistors.

[@robertfarrell479]

Thanks for the video. Really useful.

[@legoboy177]

Thanks for this. Have you been successful with the black sensor on an skr board. I get it to trigger but it doesn’t stop the axis.

[@jeffs3dcorner]

Do you have it powered by 24v? I run the power wire from the always on fan. The ground and signal only pluged into z port.

[@legoboy177]

@@jeffs3dcorner, yes. It shows triggered on the screen but it’s not stopping the z-axis

[@anothervoyager9654]

The diode approach is simple and works but is really not that safe imo, if the diode fails it can short easily 24V or whatever the probe is powering from and fry the board. I would put an octocoupler to be safe and make sure the high voltage will never touch the low voltage stuff.

[@alexpap8741]

Я синий датчик запитал от 5 Вольт - выход тоже 5 Вольт(!)👍 I powered the blue sensor from 5 Volts - the output is also 5 Volts (!)🤝

[@jimmorgan7765]

Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I have another problem I would like to hear your input on. My Voxelab Aquila printer sometimes will start a job and will arbitrarily decide without any outside interference that the print job has completed. It stops wherever it is moves the nozzle to the back left side of the plate and on the screen says the job has completed. After clearing what was just printed off the build plate I can start the job again immediately and it will print flawlessly. Any thoughts on why this happens? Thank you again for your input I do rely heavily on your knowledge.

[@stevefeldman6486]

Hey Jim, I've experienced a few times, the phenomena you describe with your Voxelab, on both my Anycubic i3 Mega, and my CTC A-10S. In both cases, it was the result of flaky SD cards, more so, adapted micro-SD cards. Using higher quality "non adapted" SD cards cleared that very intermittent problem up for me years ago. You might try cleaning the edge connectors on the SD, and or micro-SD card. SD cards are so cheap anymore, you might be better of just picking up a new one.

[@alexadresat4740]

Hello! Tell me the printer on the Marlin firmware?

[@alsrmurad]

can you show where this sensor connects? onboard or in place of the z-stopper connector? thanks for reading my question.

[@eqnish]

That is exactly why I watched the video, where the Heck does it get hooked up on the SKR board!!!

[@andreagarbin1726]

This is very interesting. I have a daoubt : you set the voltmerer (at 4:10) in the 200 millivolts range. So i'm not sure the reading you are having is correcto: if you expect 20Volts, you should set the volmeter to the 200 Volt range.

[@radeklukas]

I have also noticed that. My black probe arrived today and upon testing it (outside printer) with 24V supply the probe is giving 600mV on signal when it is NOT triggered and 3mv when it triggers. I will have to test and see on the printer.

[@jirikaspar238]

Pretty OK if you watch it at 1.5x speed

[@smookerstein]

Hi Jeff, Thanks for the great videos on the Tronxy xy 2 pro printer. Please, I have a problem with these induction sensors on my printer. Is there a way to hack this sensor with a classic endstop (like ender 3) using the original firmware?

[@jeffs3dcorner]

You.can just replace the sensor with a endstop for your z axis and you'll be fine.

[@geezerfetus]

Can you talk about the V9 boards. There is an almost zero amount of information online about it and zero on KZbin... You could be my hero in 3D❤️

[@jeffs3dcorner]

I wish I had one. I want to deep dive into one.

[@dimibaba4549]

Hey, nice Video works this sensor with a magnetic plate ?

[@jeffs3dcorner]

Both will work

[@arrgh-]

Tronxy has decided to put the black sensor on all their new "pro" products like their x5sa pro...

[@ПавелВойтович-р2е]

TR сенсор хороший, и отлично работает со стеклянным столом. я использую такой на своем x5sa, но у него есть проблема, как и у синего сенсора, в зависимости от нагрева он изменяет показания уровня! А это очень плохо!

[@colincampbell3679]

I went to the trouble and expensive of getting this new Tronxy Black leveling sensor fitted to my Tronxy X5SA. No help what so ever! The leveling on the big bed was no better at all sadly. I had it with the Tronxy X5SA now after so much upgrading with the Titan extruder added and the magnetic rubber bed sheet all cost tons all did not help me get the damn printer to work right? So that's it no more wasting money and time I be dismantling the printer and using the bits as spares. I have other better 3D printers now after the 3 years of having the Tronxy X5SA. I have the Elegoo Neptune 3 and the FLSUN QQ-S Pro Delta printer and the Voxlab Aquila ( this one I upgraded with a dual gear extruder and a dual lead screw and a high temp Hot end of up to 550 C although I go up to 300 C max ) I will be looking in to getting a replacement for the Tronxy as it is a big bed sized one. I be either getting the new Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus or the Max version. the Plus has a 320 mm bed so only 1 mm less than the Tronxy X5SA or the very large Max which is 400 mm bed? Tronxy printers are terrible and badly designed, The reason I chose the Tronxy when I 1st brought it back in 2020 was the bed build size! I was new to the hobby and did not do enough video online research. So a costly mistake. Now I also got the new Elegoo Saturn 2 resin 8K printer and Mercury XS wash & cure system. But even using water washable resin which is pricey I found that although it is a great printer. The down side is, getting rid of the waste water after the washing. you are left with a Toxic water waste you can't just throw out or down the drain or toilet. And being as I am in the UK, you can't just sit it outside in a clear container and let it set. as we don't have the year around hot sun. So I have to sell the system and then hope my local council has a toxic waste disposal area I can take the 14 liters of water I have built up in printing as my Mercury XS wash tub is 7 liters. Another costly mistake. oh well try to keep going?

[@AbuMaia01]

I think you mean "capacitive" sensor, not "captive" :)

[@ferencujvari1071]

We saw youre face....not very interesting but did not see the connections HOW TO connect is to the board! No schematics drawn, nothing! Which wire where to hook up!

[@marcdraco2189]

The blue sensor sucks!