TronXY X5SA-PRO second look

Going over the TronXY X5SA-PRO Core XY 3d Printer with a second look. More to come.

[@dronepilotflyby9481]

I'd like to say thanks for this information. Not a bad kit under $200. Before assembling I'd toss the controller, v-rollers and bed opting to start with a BigTreeTech board, linear rails, PEI bed, frame stiffening hardware and a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W.

[@rayjr5868]

I had the same issue with the head printing into the bed on my very first print (20mm cube) permanently damaging the build plate and when I hit stop the head, did the same and scratched the build plate more to the home position (left-front corner). Very disappointed the instructions did not warn one needs to perform Z offset after performing the auto calibration function. Trashed the Tronxy build plate and replaced with Wham Bam flexible system that works great. Wish I viewed your video before my first print! Thanks for posting, hope helps other. Otherwise, I'm happy with the printer and prints.

[@7invi]

1. Yes, the problem is the bedsheet. I changed to wham-bam, and the auto level sensor is more stable, didn't hit the nozzle in sudden anymore. but the gap calibration need to use 4pcs A4 to set Z to ZERO,(Weird but its works), I stick on top of the removable aluminium plate didn't install on the heating base (Just in case if not work well) 2.Need to reduce all the wheels and rod resistant at 1st. A. All the rail wheels and belt, can't adjust too tight. High tension will be causing the ghosting effect, and you can test it and move very freely with no belt attached. B. Printer below needs to put the soft base. C. All the corner must install corner holder/hook to enhance the structure also reduce the vibration. 3. About the Z level's rods have four black plastic will be broken soon, can order the metal rod holder from them. And the 4 rods need to lose all the nuts and screw and level up the bed to top before tighten all the top set of screws and nuts together, follow the same step to the bottle. The Z level screw need put a bit lubricant. If the machine is off, the bed will fall itself very freely when my hands put on top of it. 4The firmware is Chitu g code: You can request the firmware file (Gcode)from tronxy and open with app "Bracket" coding text editor because this file contains Chinese characters only this app able to read and open the text file correctly. The coding is the same as the link below, ignore the Chinese text in the "firmware.gcode." www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html. This gcode is very limited, and the extruder calibration is the command is M8011, My X5SA-2E had serious under extrusion if 100mm had 8.48mm different. M8011=0.00264375=8.48mm (DEFAULT) After value M8011=0.001295=2.7mm difference now, and not able to get any better than this yet. In my experience, we can test the results and add the value 0.000015 in every test to reduce the under extrusion. Tronxy replied this doesn't have a correct formula because the reason below: "The error is caused by external structure, so there is no specific calculation, only the estimated modification." I would like to know more about; how to change the firmware to Merlin if someone knows, please let me know, I already bought another 3D Printer TENLOG 2 IDEX printer for regular use, now this few months old Tronxy be my DIY modification hobby only. Still, it's limited because of the firmware. Hope to change HEMERA E3D Direct drive if possible.

[@Xanderioz]

Hi, I guess you have a lot of experience in software for 3D printers? I have the same Tronxy X5SA-2E printer and always have problems with the hotend clogging and always heat creap. I want to changed the hotend to a cyclobs where I can mix different fillament together and get unique colors + hope to get it running without clogs. Do you know anything about this? please send me a message or reply if you want to help thanks!

[@elisusadaugmen912]

The entire x5 series has a few problems in my opinion: 1. The build surface is pretty weird and as far as i know should be heated up to about 50° C(or lower) to work properly. 2. The hotend has a clogging issue because the cooler doesn't get enough air and is a littel bit small, so the pla might melt in the ptfe tube. 3. This printer also likes to have a g29 before its prints (for auto bed leveling). Especially because the dual z axis might get out of sync resulting in air prints or the print head crashing at one side of the print. Tronxy seems to have never build their printers themselfs and testet it for a week with differtent levels of user experience.

[@AndehX]

PLA prints at 180-200 c, PTFE doesn't start to break down until around 260 c. I think you need to educate yourself a bit more kid.

[@DoryHayes]

I ended up returning this to Amazon. Having to buy a new bed to ship before my return window closes is ridiculous. Going to find another printer option.

[@apollyonus]

I have an x5sa pro that I've put 2 spools of PLA through. The part of the instruction manual that shows you what to use for start gcode does not include G29, but it should.

[@tortig.5526]

Same Update dualextruders slicer Knies Seconds Bit No Print with Extruder 2 i dontbknow why...Laser works

[@peter2uat]

I think I have one of the newest models (Jan 2021) because I found none of the issues mentioned here. So far so good. BUT what I am missing the most is a direct connection to my micro pc which is sitting in the frame of the printer - neither by USB nor by WIFI you can access this machine. What have the Tronxy people thought by installing these possibilities (WIFI module at low extra cost) and NOT implementing them in the software? You have to use these crappy small micro SD cards, and when the SD slot breaks down after some 200 prints ? What then? Buy a new board? People - this is a "pro" machine, so we can expect a somewhat better performance than that!

[@badger2313]

I so wanted this to work - but their QA is just terrible. First return was down to missing bed frame pieces. Second return was due to the controller board no longer being able to drive one of the motors in one direction after only 6 hours of printing. Looks like some here have also experienced the issue. Just to chime in about the pro - its way more rigid to all but the x and y mounts being metal and using rails. The chitu board is very quiet, but don't expect octoprint to like working with it, and even with the plugin to allow CBD to work, it would just hang every few prints. Overall, if they just added a better board and added 40-50 to the price, it'd not be too bad. As usual, you get what you pay for.

[@dcasillas3412]

definitely had the same issues. currently fighting my way thru to finish printing some upgrades before I re-dial everything in and get a new bed thrown on. my build surface was not flat with a big bow in the center, couldnt print on the edges and after printing in the center for a few weeks, the plastic bed coating ripped off and left a huge hole in the surface making my printer a paperweight until I am done with my temporary replacement. glad some folks posted about the g29, hope that helps but it never seems to remember my z offset. not sure why. tronxy will run great but you better have some mfg. experience or a good knack for problem solving. without that you are looking at a big headache

[@pgsaravanos]

The best built surface is Glass with some hair spray on it, I have printed dozens and dozens with no problem, you cut a glass to the size of the built table and put it on and you're done. and underneath the glass the build surface stays brand new.

[@tortig.5526]

First Automatik Level after everytime z Set Up important in will destroy buildplate or Print. The System is heavy and Plate will come down with vibrations.

[@kompheaktry4944]

I don't have luck with this printer, it's on an off, sometimes a good print out of it and the other time it just crash to the bed. Now my printer is down, the X axis driver controller burn out.

[@SpaceManAus]

Get some picture frame glass, it is nice and thin, and use glue sticks to stick it down. Also I have seen others complaining about the build plate warping in the middle.

[@tortig.5526]

OK all Tronxy User got Problem with buildplate. I got Tronxy top but 500 x500x 600mm remove Plate Bus a Steelplate with 0,75 mm thikness and a PEI sticker and Problems will gone. This printer is really good but Not Form beginnend Like me...many learning and Tuning and U will great prints...

[@tylerbukus1458]

Thanks for the video I have been running into the same issue on my tronXY X5SA-pro-400 they did not fix that problem with the print bed. I have the Battle scars to show for it as it is ripping into its self (self-harm Printer). I am having issues now with getting the bed to stay hot enough to print abs. I am thinking of building a box to put over it with a camera inside it to watch my prints (No Schrödinger's cat here). I used the blue stripping for cable management. It came out really clean. This is my first 3d printer, so it was fun to build (fun is used loosely). I would like to know if you have any useful tips for printing abs? I did just fine printing PLA, just not ABS. On a side note, I hope your boy is doing well. I am a veteran myself, and I hope he enjoys this part of his life.

[@TheShorterboy]

want square measure diagonals

[@denislamadeleine1181]

dude! Speed squares are for carpenters...