Troubleshoot a Whole House Humidifier Solenoid Valve

[@Know-How-Now]

Link to other videos about humidifiers: kzbin.info/aero/PLvce66kQTjJSR5S2jVUIcmlSoY7G298yh There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link: www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos

[@webcompanion]

Thanks for the tip! This helped me with my Aprilaire whole house humidifier. My solenoid valve was clogged with sediment. To fix it, I disconnected the inlet side and sprayed it with a can of compressed air. A bunch of particles came out as I kept a paper towel under it. Then I swabbed it with a Q-tip which also came out dirty. Hooked it back up... BOOM! Working good as new!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share how you cleaned out the clogged sediment from the valve. I love when people like you add helpful comments. Have a great day.

[@adrianliro3465]

The view of water flowing is exactly what I needed… now I know that I definitely have a problem! thank you!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome!

[@sirnatanielson]

I found my humidifier line leaking randomly recently. Just moved into this house in the summer and no idea how whole house systems worked until the feed tube went. Ended up just removing the saddle valve and running a new line with a quarter turn next to the humidifier. Replaced the solenoid and feed tube and couldn't get it going. Once I followed the steps and understood what humidity levels were what, it kicked right on. This video was key

[@michaeldickey6952]

Great video, we were able to troubleshoot and fix our central humidifier system with this. I was clearly getting water out of the feed line to the solenoid, but no water was coming out the other side and into the evaporation 'filter'. I didn't measure any voltage getting applied to the leads to the solenoid when heat and humidifier were supposed to be running. I took the solenoid off and disassembled and cleaned it with compressed air and found quite alot of corrosion in it. I found an old DC adapter that matched the same voltage/amperage as the solenoid and found the plunger pulled in fine, the plunger did have some corrosion around it. I could blow compressed air through the rubber hose and into the solenoid (with it disassembled) and took the other side off where the feed line attached and blew compressed air through that as well. I'm pretty sure that tiny hole on the feed line connector was the part that got clogged up. I reassembled it, adjusted the tension, and blew air through the rubber hose back into the solenoid (from my mouth) No air came out, I continued blowing, connected the adapter to the solenoid and air started passing through. I hooked everything back up and made sure no water was coming out when it was off, called for heat and humidity, solenoid clicked, and water started coming out. Fixed! I still don't know why I didn't measure any voltage from the leads, but everything is working now.

[@pedrohuevon8844]

Thanks a lot. I didn‘t realize that the valve would not open until the furnace is on. I wasted an hour checking the waterflow and electrical and was about to replace the valve! Thank god.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, Peter. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it's always nice to hear the videos are helpful.

[@hollisterman06]

I have a new solenoid on order! Thanks for this vid. I will let you know how it goes!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome. Please let us know if that solves the problem.

[@michaelvail4769]

This is an older video but in case someone finds it and has my problem, I wanted to list it here. I installed a replacement Bryant humidifier on my older Bryant 90+ furnace. The replacement $350 humidifier was purchased used on eBay for just $20, (YES $20!) and worked perfectly on a low humidity setting for about 3 days. On or about day, I turned up the humidity setting and upon doing so, my furnace shut down completely. I diagnosed the issue as a blown 3 amp fuse on the furnace main board used for the 24v circuit that runs the thermostat and the humidifier, amongst things. The replacement humidifier is a little larger and much newer than the old one, so I thought I may have exceeded the 3-amp rating of the fuse so I installed a 5-amp fuse instead. The furnace began working again with the new fuse but since replacing the fuse with a larger current fuse, whenever I set humidity level to turn on the humidifier, no water would flow from the water valve, the humidifier fan wouldn't run and the furnace would turn itself off after a few minutes. The furnace would then turn back on a few minutes as though something had reset. I went upstairs when this kept happening and noticed the Honeywell digital thermostat I have attached to the furnace would restart every time the humidifier was engaged. I had another manual humidistat so I went ahead and replaced it knowing full well it probably wasn't the issue and I was right, turning the humidifier on with the new humidistat also caused the 24v circuit to shutdown and restart every time the humidifier turned on. I disconnected the water valve from the 24v circuit and measured the resistance across the valve's leads and it measured 1 ohm (literally shorted). I check the water valve of the old humidifier and it showed 52 ohms. I left the suspected bad water valve disconnected and powered everything back up. I activated the humidistat and the humidifier fan ran perfectly and the furnace no longer shut-off and reset itself over and over. It appears the shorted water valve was killing my furnace. I have ordered a replacement valve which should be here in a few days. I'm pretty sure my problems will end with the installation of the new valve. What concerns me is what caused the valve to short out like that. The voltage at the valve was a consistent 25v. I'm hoping it was just a fluke. I'll update this with the results of the new valve installation when I have the work done in case someone else reading these comments on this amazing video run into my weird situation. Stay Tuned!

[@PoolFool]

Thanks for a great description of the workings, and the typical solutions. Mine had a clogged saddle valve, but your tutorial gave me the info I needed to solve the problem.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, Doug. There are hundreds of videos that a home owner might find helpful on the channel. If you haven't already done so, click on the channel name to check them out. Subscribe, it's free, you'll always be able to find the videos. They are organized by playlist or you can search for a keyword in the channel page's search box. The videos don't always make it to the top of the search page.

[@coryulrich6489]

Thanks. Confirmed voltage, heard a click, found a clog. Now I look like a genius.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, Cory. Way to go on being resourceful and fixing the problem.

[@kaitlanclaycamp-johnson2197]

To remove the solenoid to clean it, did u shut down power or water? Newby here ;)

[@jeffs1884]

Speaking of clogs....you will most likely discover a small brass orifice inserted into the solenoid end of the nylon discharge tube. It has an absolutely tiny opening that can very easily become clogged with minerals or debris. Don’t just assume solenoid’s bad unless you like enjoy spending money on replacement parts you don’t actually need. Don’t bother asking how I know this...

[@fucheduck]

there is also a problem if a lousy plumber did not use sealent to tighten the threads on the connectors when he screwed in the hoses going from the water heater to the humidifier.

[@johnkaiser2047]

Thank you for your reply and the excellent thorough video explaining the possible problem with humidistat. I need to listen better

[@Know-How-Now]

No worries, John. I pack a lot of information in the videos, so it's easy to miss some detail. Have a great day.

[@harrisons4807]

Thanks! This video saved me over $200.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, Harrison. I do my best to make quality videos. There are now over 200 how to/repair video, organized by playlist, on the channel. If you find a few spare moments click on the channel name and check it out. Thanks for watching.

[@michaellam4204]

I just wanted to add, the control for the solenoid valve via the humidistat should only run when the furnace is running, typically. If this is not the case for you and the valve is open all the time, then you need to check your wiring and make sure it's not just directly connected to the furnace board 24V power. It should be connected to the motor power, or contact relay. Also be wary of connecting directly to the HUM terminal as this is 120V and you will dry your humidistat without a transformer in between.

[@Know-How-Now]

Thanks for the additional info, Michael. Have a great day.

[@fortheearth]

Thank you for this clear demonstration!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome.

[@OKBumble]

Nice! Great info and no wasted time!

[@Know-How-Now]

I do my best to respect your time. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@TheLeahmsmith]

Is there a way to jump it out? What if you have a Carrier infinity thermostat, no humidistat, and you're trying to test it in heat mode during the summer and it won't turn on?

[@fUjiMaNia]

my furnace does not have a humidistat .... I control the humidity level through my smart thermostat. Is that the same as you raising the humidity level at 0:59 to force the valve to open?

[@Know-How-Now]

The concept is to cause the humidifier's solenoid valve to open. It's hard to say what triggers yours to open. You might check the operating manual for your thermostat or furnace.

[@courtneybarkei8334]

These are very informative videos! My humidifier is repeatedly cycling on and then quickly off. I hear it doing this when my thermostat has turned down for the night and the furnace is not blowing. It started after my HVAC company replaced the water pad. They've been out 2 times since, said the humidistat was bad and replaced it, but it's still not resolved. Any ideas, besides a new HVAC company? 🤣

[@aabdulla786]

Thanks for the clear and concise video. Question - water seems to be getting stopped up at the end of the inlet hose (ie when I attach the piece with the filter screen). I tried cleaning out the screen and fitting to no avail. Also checked my solenoid valve independent of the hoses attached, and when humidity is called for, I see that it does not open despite the click and power going to it. Does that also mean the solenoid is shot, or does the solenoid use the water's pressure to open?

[@Know-How-Now]

No pressure needed to open the solenoid valve. It's hard for me to give you a correct diagnosis without being there. After reading your note, my guess would be that in spite of the valve clicking and seeming to work, it may not be opening. I'd try replacing the solenoid/valve.

[@aabdulla786]

@@Know-How-Now Thanks for your reply. Have ordered a new solenoid. I imagine the solenoid failed and without water flowing through the end of the inlet hose into the solenoid, it also calcified or something. Regardless, if the solenoid doesn't need water pressure to open it, then my solenoid has definitely failed. Very much appreciate the video and the reply. Thank you.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help. Best wishes for the repair.

[@billfarmer66]

My solenoid is making a vibration that is loud enough to hear in the house. I am getting water, not a big flow. I am going to see if I have any dirt but could I have a bad solenoid?

[@Know-How-Now]

The solenoid could be bad, try cleaning it first. There is likely a screen on the inlet of the valve. You might have to fish is out with a wire or paper clip.

[@billfarmer66]

Thank you. I will do some looking

[@TheStranger5250]

I’m only getting small drops of water at the inlet when I took the solenoid off. Nothing jammed that I can see. Must be further back in the line 😏

[@MSB1080]

Will the humidifier only turn on when the heat is on? We use a wood insert and were hoping to use just the humidifier function with the fan on. The oil heat won’t kick in since the house is warm from the wood insert. Would the humidifier only work if the oil heat is also on?

[@Know-How-Now]

The humidifier won't turn on unless the furnace is running.

[@MSB1080]

@@Know-How-Now darn it! But thank you for the quick response. I need to look into if there is potential to hook it up to come on when the fan is running instead of the furnace.

[@glennferrell2902]

I recently had to replace my solenoid valve (#10006735, installed by regular furnace service) and decided to clean the old valve (which was not that old) and soak it in vinegar. When I pushed a small brush into the output end of the valve, the brush came out with an orange plastic plug - about an inch long. The plug is flat with a round head and fits into a slot inside the valve. It is not permeable. It looks like there should have been a filter here but there wasn't one. Does anyone know what this orange plastic plug is?

[@dylanshabtai4554]

How does one clean the debris inside? My water never shuts off

[@Know-How-Now]

There might be a screen on the inlet side of the valve that you can clean. You might have to "hook" it with something... maybe a paper clip. You could soak the screen in some vinegar for about an hour. Try to flush out the valve with water. If it still won't close, and you are sure it's getting power, then replace the valve.

[@willmorgan9728]

When I connect a 9 volt battery the solenoid wires. I can hear it click. And water flows thru. But not when it’s connected to the thermostat

[@Know-How-Now]

You might try checking out the video I have about troubleshooting a whole house humidifier: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@edt.5118]

Do you have a video to troubleshoot the control pcb? I think a disreputable service tech made a change to disable my humidifier.

[@Know-How-Now]

Sorry for the delay with the reply. I've been out of town and unable to access my account. I have a video that shows how to troubleshoot a humidifier. It may get you pointed in the right direction. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcUsi=-u5lYFPawUQE_yBE

[@nicolechino3554]

I had no hot water at my home which I have just moved into. I have a carrier humidifier. The valve at my home was all the way closed and was leaking. I opened the valve and the leaking stopped. Would the previous owner close the water valve due to summer versus winter? My humidifier does not have a summer / winter switch like other models I’ve seen.

[@Know-How-Now]

I'm not familiar with that humidifier. If the humidifier doesn't have a summer/winter switch, then it could be the reason for closing the valve. If no operator's manual was left for you by the previous owner, you may want to get the model number off of the unit and go to carrier's website. You can probably download the owners/operators manual. Congratulations on the new home.

[@johnnieguitar5724]

Excellent video! Thank you!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome!

[@bryanh6253]

Bought a house with an Aprilaire 500 series. Bone dry at 20%. I opened the valve, and listened to it. Seems like the solenoid doesn't even click on. I'm not sure exactly where the power for the solenoid is coming from, so I don't think I can safely disassemble to clean out the solenoid. I believe it may be coming from the air handler/furnace. Would a simple reset on the breaker for the furnace possibly solve the problem or is that not helpful at all?

[@Know-How-Now]

I doubt that resetting will fix it, but it doesn't hurt to try the easiest thing first. I have another video that might help you under stand how to track down the problem. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@bryanh6253]

@@Know-How-Now Thanks! So I have no water coming through mine to the panel. Valve is opened, humidity is set all the way up. I want to check the solenoid, but I don't know how to safely kill the power. I think the power is coming from the air handler, and my power switch panel has 3 things that could potentially power this labeled as "AC" "Heating element" and something else. Is it safe to disconnect the wires without fully killing the power?

[@Know-How-Now]

I'm a little unclear on your question. Are your trying to disconnect the wires going to the solenoid? If you choose to disconnect those "hot", for sure you don't want to touch the non insulated parts of the wires, that's for your safety. Nor do you want them to touch each other or let them touch ground (metal). You will likely blow the transformer. I don't touch any unknown power source without using a multimeter/tester to make sure power is off.

[@joecalabrese8979]

Mines not pulling water from our hot water tank. It was installed in 2021. The copper line isn’t warm to the touch anymore. Was just working a couple of weeks ago. Does single digit temps affect it?

[@Know-How-Now]

IMHO, single temps shouldn't be a problem. Maybe the copper line is clogged?

[@williamstoeckel9138]

Why did you cover the voltage test with the multi meter? Can see where/how you connected for test.

[@Know-How-Now]

I don't understand your question. I've clipped onto the test points and showing you the voltage on the meter.... there's a problem with that?

[@williamstoeckel9138]

@@Know-How-Now I was unable to see how you connected the leads because the multi-meter blocked the view. I’m still unclear as to which way to hook up when both wires are the same color?

[@Know-How-Now]

It's AC voltage, the colors/polarity doen't matter. I've removed the wire nuts and put one lead on each exposed connection. There is a shot of the connections, I agree it is brief. There is a gear symbol on the video, you can adjust the speed of the video and hit the pause button to freeze the frame to see the connection, if my explanation hasn't helped.

[@troyf1]

@@Know-How-Now Same question, but specifically was the voltage reading taken across the leads when connected to the solenoid, or was the solenoid removed from the circuit when testing? You've got another vid related to this, and I'm heading there now to see if that might answer my question. Thanks for doing these videos, very helpful!

[@Know-How-Now]

I just removed the wire nuts and left the wires twisted together. You could untwist the wires and read across the pair not connected to the solenoid. Do not allow the wires to touch each other or ground (you could blow the transformer). When I made the video, I was assuming the viewer knows how to use a multimeter. I try not to go off onto tangents from the title of the video... it's not a video on how to use a multimeter.

[@James-jx3ro]

Hello. My humidifier turns on and of during operation. Its been working fine for the past 4 years w no issues. I'm thinking that the control is or has gone bad. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thank you.

[@Know-How-Now]

Hi James, I'm not clear on the problem. I do have a companion video to this one about trouble shooting a humidifier. You might try watching it. If you haven't solved them problem and can give me a more detailed description of what is wrong, I can try to help you. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@samshs9408]

i have a similar problem, my humidifier works well for a few minutes and turns off, the digital control turns off too, blank screen (humidipro honeywell) and after a while it turns on again and repeats everything. but never reaches the set humidity level, it usually gets 25% humidity even if it is set to 40%

[@James-jx3ro]

@@samshs9408 it seems to not reach it because its turning off. I'd try putting in test mode, (usually last a minute) and move the wires both near the unit at the wire nuts. Maybe the vibration is shaking it loose. Of not there then at the control, move them and if it shuts off you'll have an answer. You're going to need another set of eyes if the control isn't near you to see if it goes off. I have to replace my control mine. The sensor isn't working.

[@PEL_man]

Thanks for this. Any idea how I reduce the water flow? Too much water is passing into the tray from feed tube. I have two furnaces and can see the slower water flow in the the other unit. Thanks for your help.

[@Know-How-Now]

If there is a shut off valve, you could try closing it partially to reduce the flow.

[@girinathan1483]

Yes. There is a little brass component called water pressure reducer that you can put inline with the water supply. I think it was like ,$25 here in Canada

[@kentonb-1]

Hi, great video, but I have an odd problem. I had a bad solenoid (stuck closed). I ordered a new one, and it did not work either. Returned it for a replacement, and that one didn't work! I had verified everything you did in the video... water is flowing to the solenoid and there are 28 volts on the lead wires coming from the humidity controller. However, if I connect those lead wires to the solenoid's and test the voltage (as you do in the video), the voltage drops to about 0.85 volts! Did I really get two bad solenoids? Or might something else be wrong?

[@Know-How-Now]

If the humidifier did work in the past and nothing has been changed then I would guess the problem is somewhere in the circuit. If there is a transformer, I would connect a pair of wires from the solenoid directly to the transformer (disconnect any other wires from the transformer) and check for around 25 volts. Be careful to not ground or touch the wires together, you will blow the transformer. If you have 25 volts, then the transformer and the solenoid are good. If there is some sort of circuit board that switches the voltage on/off to the solenoid that is likely the cause of the problem. If you don't have 25 volts then the problem is with the transformer or the solenoid.

[@吾-e2x]

hi ken, I have exact problem... done all the measurement and I try my old solenoid on doorbell wire which runs around 25V ac and the solenoid does work with clicking sound... but the solenoid would draw the furnace ac supply down to 0.xx volts from 27V on open lead wires (exactly like ur situation) Do you mind telling how u ended up fixing ur problem? Thanks

[@willburk]

Thank You for the video!

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome!

[@curtismay3755]

Thank you. Huge help.

[@Know-How-Now]

You're welcome.

[@joelturcotte8261]

I replaced the solenoid on a Desert Spring whoe house humidifier. The very first cycle all worked perfectly and silently. Every time after that there is a buzzing noise at the solenoid connection and when I take a reading it is 26 v . The water is barely flowing . It does not appear the solenoid is opening completely like the first time. I thought it was the solenoid so I replaced it again with a brand new one. Same problem. No continuous water flow after the first time running it. Now buzzing and very little water flow. I also replaced the water source tube and tried a new humidistat. No change. Any suggestions?

[@Know-How-Now]

If I am following, you replaced the original solenoid (that you know did work at one time) and the new one worked one time. Verify that you have the correct replacement part. Because it is humming, I doubt that a piece of dirt is stuck in the solenoid valve. If the humidifier did work in the past and nothing has been changed then perhaps the problem is somewhere in the circuit. If there is a transformer, I would connect a pair of wires from the solenoid directly to the transformer (disconnect any other wires from the transformer) and check for around 25 volts and it should allow water to flow. Be careful to not ground or touch the wires together, you will blow the transformer. If you have 25 volts and water flow, then the transformer and the solenoid are good. If there is some sort of circuit board that switches the voltage on/off to the solenoid that is likely the cause of the problem. If you don't have 25 volts/water flowing then the problem is with the transformer or the solenoid.

[@joelturcotte8261]

Hi thank you for the quick response. In this configuration there is no transformer. It is wired directly to the furnace control board. I replaced the solenoid twice. Same result. I tried the original solenoid and it remained open and the water ran continuously. So I put the new one back on and it will not work properly as described before.

[@Know-How-Now]

If you can get your hands on a 24VAC transformer and connect it to the solenoids you can prove if they are good. If they are good then it's a problem with the control board. Without being there and seeing it, it's hard to troubleshoot it.

[@joelturcotte8261]

@@Know-How-Now Hi, so I tried it with a transformer I had from before. I applied it to the solenoid and it did not work properly. So, I am concluding that both new solenoids I tried only worked once and then failed. I cannot justify continuing to purchase new solenoids for this setup at $50 a pop. I think I need to look at a different pass through humidifier altogether. Perhaps one that is more robust than this piece of junk. Thanks for your help...

[@Know-How-Now]

Knowing that piece of information, I'd suspect that the solenoids are being blown by the circuit they are connected to and you are making the right decision to not buy a third solenoid.

[@mikehall7806]

I've got this 700 Aprilaire humidifier and when the furnace is running and the humidistat (I've got the older model--not the digital one) is turned up I'm not getting power to the solenoid. How can I check the humidistat output? Thanks, Mike

[@Know-How-Now]

Hi Mike, sorry for the slow response. I've been bogged down with a sick cat. Without seeing a schematic for your humidistat board or being there in person, it's hard for me to give you an accurate answer. You might try to go to the Aprilaire website and look for installation instructions and manuals for your model. If you haven't already found it, there is a companion video to this one on how to troubleshoot a whole house humidifier. Here's the link to it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@mikehall7806]

@@Know-How-Now Hi My humidistat is a model 56 and it had to be wired correctly since it worked before. I have 24v coming to the humidistat from the relay in the furnace and 24v coming out of the humidistat (terminal H) but nothing at the solenoid. The power does go thru the plug on the cover (with the fan in it) and back I'm wondering if the plug is not sending power back to the solenoid. Thanks, Mike

[@Know-How-Now]

It sounds like the plug could be the problem. Disconnect the plug and activate the output for the solenoid, then check for voltage at the plug. If you have voltage at the plug, then you know the problem is either a bad connection at the plug or something else beyond the plug. If you have voltage at the plug on the end that is connected the the humidistat, keep it unplugged and check resistance between the other end of the plug and the solenoid. I'd guess you should read less than 100 ohms (coil on solenoid). If you read meg ohms or an open then the problem is wiring or an open coil on the solenoid. You might try jumping voltage to the solenoid and see if it works.

[@briang43]

Thanks for the tips 👍🏾

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome, Brian.

[@highaltitude99]

How about reverse problem. Humidifier water flows just fine when turned on, but water continues to flow through, though at much lower rate, when the humidifier is not running (This is water flowing from the tube above the humidifier filter. Water stops dripping from the tube when the water valve is turned off.) Water pressure is 63 PSI.

[@Know-How-Now]

It sounds like water is passing through the solenoid valve when it is closed. There is a long shot that a piece of debris not allowing it to fully close, though there is should be a screen on the valve to prevent that from happening.

[@bernincoal1]

Hope you can help. I have the 700. Power goes to R&C on the control panel but does not light up. I changed the panel, the fan circuit board, solenoid and 24v transformer and nothing lights up. What do you think? Thank you

[@Know-How-Now]

Have you checked the output of the transformer with a multimeter? Maybe you got a bad replacement or something is "blowing" the transformer. Be careful, if you accidentally touch the two the wires coming out of the transformer when it is plugged int, you will short it and blow it.

[@bernincoal1]

@@Know-How-Now Thank you for replying. Update: Power goes IN the control panel but not OUT. The out is the H. I changed two control panels, both the same thing.

[@Know-How-Now]

If I understand correctly, you have checked power to the control panel's input and you have the correct power there - 24 volts and you have replaced the board that the transformer's wires are landed. You have no power out of the board. Are you sure you got the correct replacement board? Are there any jumpers on it?

[@bernincoal1]

@@Know-How-Now It's the same exact board for the 700A and no jumpers. It's very weird.

[@sprocket374]

Great video. About how long does the solenoid stay open allowing the water to flow?

[@Know-How-Now]

The amount of time the solenoid stays open is dependent upon the type of control and the humidity setting. The water will flow until the humidity setting is satisfied. Water can flow for several minutes. If you are wondering if the solenoid is stuck open, adjust the humidity setting lower. The solenoid should close. The other option would be to disconnect one of the splices while water is flowing. With no power the solenoid should close.

[@dharmprita]

Does the valve has to be rotated completely anticlockwise ?

[@Know-How-Now]

yes

[@CalitranoN]

the valve shuts off after like 5 minutes??? why?

[@rexside]

hi. if I blow the valve with air. Is the air suppose to come out the other end of the valve or just the pin hole in the middle. I tried both ends of the valve line and I find that the air only comes out of the pin valve in the middle when I remove that push spring valve.

[@Know-How-Now]

I'm unclear on your question. The valve's solenoid needs power to open the valve. The easiest way to check the valve is working properly to activate the solenoid (however yours is activated, by gas on, fan on, humidstat, etc), listen for click (activation) and check for water flow.

[@diagss]

Is it normal for a small stream of water when the humidistat is on the 'off mode'?

[@Know-How-Now]

A small amount of water could drip after the valve, closes, water shouldn't continue to flow when the humidstat is in the off mode. It sounds like the valve is not closing all the way. There could be some debris in it.

[@johnkaiser2047]

Incomplete answer, what if no power to solenoid, what is the next step? Can I check the transformer?

[@Know-How-Now]

As suggested in the beginning of the video, there is another video to help you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@HeHateMe36]

Mine currently has a constant drip but not a lot of water compared to the video. Would that be the fault of the solenoid or is that normal?

[@Know-How-Now]

Maybe there is some debris inside and it's not allowing the valve to fully close. You might be able to clean it out. Check out this thread: www.doityourself.com/forum/humidifiers-dehumidifiers/324975-solenoid-valve-maintenance.html

[@HeHateMe36]

@@Know-How-Now Thank you so much! I disconnected, cleaned, and now it's working great!! Appreciate the response.

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome. It's my pleasure to help.

[@surensath986]

Hi, I have issues with no power going to the solenoid. Can you help me troubleshoot this issue?

[@Know-How-Now]

Without being there it would be extremely cumbersome and time consuming to try to troubleshoot. My days are packed full. You might try watching the companion video to this one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@jamesderoc6717]

very good , many thanks

[@Know-How-Now]

You are welcome.

[@akbaxb165]

Learned something new. Thank you very much for the video. Curious though: Should the straddle valve be opened all the way, or 2 or 3 turns would do to avoid water wastage. Thanks in advance for you help and insight.

[@Know-How-Now]

I wouldn't restrict the water to the humidifier.

[@calebploof4395]

Very good video

[@Know-How-Now]

Thanks for watching the video and the compliment. I do my best to make high quality videos that don't waste your time.

[@patamendt45]

My furnace is off and water is still flowing - if I turn it down to zero it will shut off - but as soon as I rotate it on - it starts flowing. Any ideas? House humidity was 30, but I since turned it off due to the water bill - it’s now 20%.

[@Know-How-Now]

I'm not clear on what you are describing.

[@patamendt45]

@@Know-How-Now sorry - I have a Honeywell whole house humidifier on my furnace. Sometimes water is still flowing even if the furnace and blower are off. Sometimes it’s shuts off like it is supposed to. When it’s acting up - the furnace will be completely off and water will still run across the humidifier. I have turn the humidistat to zero and it shuts off. If I turn it right back on - it flows again. I hear the clicking of the solenoid as well. Other times it works and operates just fine. Is the solenoid going bad? The humidistat? Wiring appears ok and correct. Thanks!

[@Know-How-Now]

Intermittent problems can be difficult to diagnose. I would disconnect the wires that go to the solenoid and verify that the output voltage from the humidifier is working correctly. You'll have to activate the humidistat to check. If the output from the humidistat is good, then you know you have a problem with the solenoid.

[@Know-How-Now]

PS - There is a companion video to this one you might want to watch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXq6p3R8q9GLqcU

[@kaitlanclaycamp-johnson2197]

Help? How do I take apart my solenoid? Do I need to shut off electricity? Shut off water? I just purchase my first home for my little girl and I. Solenoid has power. Water valve is Open. There is no water from the feed tube. I cant afford $300 for a guy to come to my home ;)

[@Know-How-Now]

Yes turn off the water and the power.

[@DarioLencinaPersonal]

You rock!!

[@WayneMoore-z1s]

👍

[@jakejacobson769]

🎉

[@drpoundsign]

Okay...I have a valve that won't stop dripping. I put the plastic parts in vinegar-it still dripped. SO...I ordered a replacement one online. The old part ended in 242, this was a similar one-241. BUT...(for you All "Young Frankenstein" fans) the new shtooker won't fit in the swan-LOL. In Other words: the 24 volt electrical female connector is the wrong size for the new part. IDK what to DO...what is that connector even called?? It's not a twist-on connection-it's more like a plug??

[@Know-How-Now]

Can you cut the connectors off and wire nut it?

[@drpoundsign]

@@Know-How-Now I guess I COULD. They are flat connectors. Would grommets be helpful??

[@Know-How-Now]

I don't know what you exactly have, but if there are any sharp metal edges that the wires pass though you would want grommets to protect the wires.

[@MK-kz9pp]

video is good 1.4 K likes 45 dislikes

[@Know-How-Now]

Wow, you can see the dislikes? I though KZbin wasn't showing the dislikes any more.

[@troyf1]

@@Know-How-Now The number of dislikes are not shown.

[@Know-How-Now]

Thanks for the feed back.. I am not pleased that KZbin has stopped showing those dislikes.