Troybilt Bronco (2013) Drive Belt Problems

Troubleshooting a problem that's eating up the lower drive belt after a few hours of use. Found that a idler arm tension spring was missing.. Everything works fine now but starting to see some wear on the new belt after a few minutes..
A symptom of missing Idler arm spring will be that its difficult to change gears(fwd,N,Rev).
Update: Even though the idler arm spring was missing and causing other issues, the main problem was the cheap after market belts were slightly a different width and shape than the OEM belt causing it to ride deeper into the variable speed pulley where there were machine burrs... Ahhh rookie mistake.. Use Genuine MTD belts. Exploded Parts list:
www.troybilt.com/en_US/operat...
Drive Belt Routing Diagram:
schematron.org/troy-bilt-13wx...

[@hwilkins8335]

Thanks so much for this video. I've been looking all day to try to find a video that show me where the same spring go to the lawn on my my Troy-Bilt. Your your video was clear, precise, and very clear. This allowed me to determine where the spring go. Thanks again!

[@zippiezoo9319]

Try using a cable tie on each end to prevent it coming off again and thanks for the feedback.

[@hwilkins8335]

@@zippiezoo9319 Great idea ! Thanks

[@mikeholley4488]

i have tried everything! thank u sir! my dad's is apparently missing the spring and the stud that the spring attaches to on the idler bracket. i was about to scrap the entire mower and cursing for hours. i owe you one bud. god bless america.

[@harveygregory581]

I know why your belt is getting shredded,.if you look at the idler pulley support for the upper triangle routed belt, the back of the lower drive belt is rubbing against the idler pulley support bracket below your pulley. I ground a relief notch into the support bracket about 1/4 to 5/16 in deep enough to clear the belt and haven't had any further issues shredding belts. Your video helped me figure out an issue I was having with the speed pedal, I may have forgot to reinstall that spring that you were talking about. I think I may have seen something fall out from under the mower when I test drove it. I will check it out in the morning and hope that's what it was. Now if I can just find that damn thing in my yard. Wish me luck!

[@myblown454]

I have the same model. It ate the drive belt when it was 2 weeks old. factory service replaced the belt and it maybe lasted 3 weeks. i have done my own repair since. I appreciate your video- hopefully it will help get more belt life. the funny thing is that my previous Troy Bilt pony ran its whole life and I never replaced a drive belt- only deck belts

[@zippiezoo9319]

Thanks for sharing

[@grdelawter4266]

Very thorough review. I have the same issues on my Troy built mower and after watching your video and others I’ve decided that I will never own a Troy built mower again!

[@harveygregory581]

I have a 2012 model Bronco and it is still going with a little help of maintenance. These mowers have their quirks to them, considering pretty much all the different brands are made by MTD, different paint, different engines, are the only differences, they all operate the same. I didn't realize this until I started working on mine, looked at all the different brands and realized they are all the same under the sheet metal. I have been doing some refurbishing to mine because I had to put some tires on it, but I couldn't get the wheels off to replace them! So I ended up having to pull the entire rear end out, and take it to the shop. The service tech said they have run into this situation before, the wheels are seized up to the axle and if you try to knock it out the hard way you will break some parts in the housing, so I'm glad I didn't get too physical with it! I have spent about two, maybe three weeks getting her whipped back into shape for another 10 years. These videos have helped me sort out the details, for those of you, keep making them!

[@grdelawter4266]

The mower has such a large turning radius. When I mow, my yard turns into many triangles of various sizes and I constantly have to back up to turn more sharply or make a loop. So I’m now preparing to buy a zero turn hydraulic mower. Besides, I’m tired of fixing it. I have to fix something at least 6-7 times every summer

[@jamesgeorge1709]

​@@harveygregory581❤

[@mikehill1376]

Just a So You Know . I've killed that long belt 3 times (2 mowers at the same yard and I've mowed many .That yard has massive gumballs . They must get top of deck and work way to interfere ...reference broke belts . This guy posted an EXCELLENT VIDEO ! THANKS !!

[@rightsideofthegrass8114]

I do some lawn tractor work on the side. I just finished a belt replacement on a Craftsman T1400, Model 247-203-732. The layout looks identity to your machine. I used belt 954-0467A as the engine to variable drive, and 954-04208A as the variable drive to transaxle. I think these are the same belts. I have never done this job before. I had the deck off, but not the wheels. Some things I learned: (1) Getting the belts off the variable drive was a bear. Why? I am not sure. But, I think the key was to work with two hands, one of which was moving the sliding sheave up and down, in order to get the belt past the frame at the rear. The transaxle one came off pretty quickly and easy. I had removed the nut off the transaxle drive pulley, slid the pulley to the side. I used a ratchet strap to pull the tension idler arm creating slack in the belt. I ran the strap off to the right side the the machine, along the edge and across the back, finding a place to hook. I was going to take the spring off, but was concerned it would be difficult to get reattached. It seemed very tight, so chose not to remove the tension spring. The lower belt was much more difficult to get off the variable drive. I watched many videos and many had three bolts holding a support bracket for the variable drive pulley assembly. This machine does not work that way. I think the pulley is held in place with three bolts. I found them, but saw access was very difficult. I think they had 5/16" heads. Getting the lower belt off the variable pulley proved to be the most challenging. The belt on this machine was the original (I think it is a 2013 model, used about 35 hours per season). It had chunks missing. I could not use a belt section with missing pieces. I think the key was to work with two hands, sliding the variable section of the pulley up and down. The new belt slide in easily. This led me to think the old one was frayed, making its cross section bigger and more difficult to get through the tight clearances. Initially, I put the new one in wrong and had to take it out. Ten seconds, and I had it out! This is far, far less time than the old one. In hindsight, I wish I would have just cut the old one to get it out. I initially ran the belt wrong through the two idlers. Yes, one of them has to be taken out, snaking the belt into postion, then replacing the idler. I think it was the idler closest to the front of the tractor. Even when the belt is fully installed, it is not tensioned, with or without the parking brake. Do not be alarmed at this! I spent much time, thinking I had something wrong. But, when running, it works well. Most of the videos show removal of the nut on the transaxle pulley has access from the top. This model does not have access, the support bar is blocking access. Come in the left side of the machine, in front of the wheel with a 7/8" box end wrench. Put a screw driver through the hole in the pulley to hold in place. The nut came off easily despite not having good access. Some comments, "I will not buy a Troy." This same machine is branded differently. For example, Cut Cadet machine is LXT1040. I think it is identical. So, at least Troy, Craftsman and Cub Cadet are same, differently branded. Perhaps there is a Yardmaster, Yardman, and others that are identical. I think the manufacturer of all of them is MTD. This is why the OEM belts are labeled MTD. I agree with others in this thread - buy MTD belts, not those from a local auto supply house. Also, I have learned from the videos that there are many lawn tractors with this variable sheave ground speed control design. To be sure, there are many variations, so buy belts for the specific model. All are not exactly the same, even though they are the same in principle. This is probably not a job for the casual homeowner with few tools, and little mechanical repair experience. P.S. I wish I had another job just like this one to do now, while it is fresh in mind!

[@zippiezoo9319]

Agree.. the only reason I had the wheels off was for safety when I was under the tractor while it was running with transmission engaged (for video). Thanks for your input.. The learning curve is the worst.. Could have saved lots of headache by just buying MTD belts like you said.. hope this thread helps others.

[@barryf5479]

Thanks. We have one that smelt like rubber before it threw the drive belt. I'll go out there tomorrow and check for the spring.

[@insidethreewide7133]

Thanks for taking the time to put this video together! You did an outstanding job getting your point across. Very informative. My situation is the same as yours. I replaced the belt at first with what is supposed to be an OEM made by sunbelt at Lowes. The tractor would creep when you let off the accelerator. Worked fine other than that. So I ordered an actual MTD Club Cadet and replaced the belt and all is fine except for the sloppy belt just like in this video. I matched up the new oem belt with the Lowes belt and found it to be about 1.5mm thinner in the height of the belt. It made all the difference in the world. In my best guess, is that the 1.5 mm adds 3mm per pulley times 4 pullies is 12mm or approximately 1/2" which makes the new belt actually 1/2" longer in theory and that was all it needed to stop the creeping. Adjusting the linkage on the go pedal had no effect on the creeping whatsoever. It is still on the jack stands and now out of gas until tomorrow. My question is did loading up the transaxle under normal riding conditions correct the slop in the belt. My tractor is a 2011 model that has been garage kept and is still in good condition, is just now getting all the belts replaced for the very first time. I was all excited to have all new belts only to have to rack my brains and try different routings for the belt until I watched a few videos, and everyone was saying you have to buy oem or some weird things will happen to the drive. It appears they were all right! Oh and btw, my spring was missing also and as big as it is, I don't know how I could have missed it in the yard. Being as you are the 4th person I've heard that lost their spring as well which leaves me to believe it was never installed as it worked perfect without it.

[@zippiezoo9319]

Reply...yes. yes .. exactly... we won't make that mistake again.. I assumed it was the correct belt because the part number matched.. ass u me.. I am ashamed to say.. I bought 2 belts from the same place.. not thinking it was the wrong belt.. it never occured to me.. genuine OEM MTD for me.. you can get away with a clone sometimes.. but when it bites it bites hard. Also.. I now keep a log on any thing I'm working on.. because we all forget.. take care and thanks for your input.. and sorry the delayed response.. one more thing.. it's been almost 3 seasons since I made that video and my belts OEM are holding up well... even with the oscillation..

[@insidethreewide7133]

@@zippiezoo9319 yes, all is well. Thanks for the 3 year update. I also might add that running it with the tight belt would damn near throw me off of it when taking off. It took off like a top fuel dragster! I clocked it at 22mph on the street in front of my house! Never again will I make that mistake. Thanks for your reply.

[@jamesgeorge1709]

@@zippiezoo9319 The worst thing is arthur in my hands, and my knees so getting up and down is also an issue. Good luck and what the old Indian said to Josie PERSEVERE.

[@southside8714]

Great video. Very thorough!

[@zippiezoo9319]

Much appreciated Southside!😁👍

[@danceonpointeJC]

I think you just helped me fix my problem. I think I'm missing that spring as well. Replaced the drive belt, never saw that spring. Belt is ok but my mower won't idle without moving forward or backwards. I'll check for this spring today thanks!

[@mikehill1376]

I just ( on a 2015) replaced belt twice . First belt was a cheaper priced belt on Amazon. The length ( 90&1/2" or 91&1/2 ) and width 5/8" was correct but it was too thick. The two pulleys in middle that engage belt is where fat belt wedged. Returned and bought new belt at same length width but slightly thiner .Not smoking or sticking . It does same as yours .put in forward and we are rolling ( slow ) my brake doesn't stop me . Have not checked for adjustment as of yet .

[@terryfendley4362]

@@mikehill1376 I can't believe that I'm seeing your comment. I say that with the excitement! I've watched these videos over and over and read hundreds of comments have you figured this out Mike I've also am on my third belt I finally got a factory OEM belt my first two were not factory OEM belts and immutable cranking it will go forward or backwards now I have the correct belt but I don't know if that's going to solve the issue or not and quite frankly tired of working on the damn thing LOL the one belt exchange now is a 2015 also any tips did you figure it out etc? Thanks in advance

[@jowens012003]

I just replaced my drive belts and have the same issue of it creeping forward or backwards and can’t stop it. I bought these two belts: 954-0467a Belt Replacement... www.amazon.com/dp/B07V84GGNF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share D&D PowerDrive 954-04208 MTD or... www.amazon.com/dp/B01AGQ2QKO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Have you guys had any luck fixing the creeping issue? Thanks

[@zippiezoo9319]

Sorry for the late reply, You may have made the same mistake that I did. Even though you used the correct part# its a third party belt. It fits but causes headaches. In my case the belt was 1/16" wider than the OEM even though like yours the part # matched and it didnt likey.. I now use belts that say "Genuine MTD Part(s)". It cost more but less headaches. Disclaimer: I'm no expert on anything but hard knocks and no affiliation with mtd. What to do now.. You can see if there's an adjustment but I do not remember there being one on my model.. Let us know how you resolve it. Thanks for feedback!

[@jamesgeorge1709]

I just finished replacing all the belts on mine. It sounds like the variator was a little noisy. I'm old and had a hard time replacing the long top belt because I don't have very much strength in my hands I removed one of the idler pullies and was then able to put the speed belt back on it really helped me alot and of course put the idler back on. Most all riding mowers are made by MTD, It appears to me they are always looking for ways to make them harder to work on, my suggestion is to slot the motor mount holes which would help alot. Have fun and above all be safe.😊

[@zippiezoo9319]

Thanks for your input..It is difficult to work on, I too am no spring chick..haha.. good idea about the slotted motor mounts! 👌

[@briankittle3088]

I looked on my mower for the spring and it's much smaller than that one and the coils only in the middle of it with too long straight pieces that come off and hook on both studs

[@philliphall5198]

Also look at pulley really close for a rock or peace of gravel stuck in it , yes had a zero turn with it and owner had replaced belt twice in a week, I found it and no problem now 😊

[@zippiezoo9319]

Thanks for the feed back..I can see how something jammed in there could go un-noticed.. if can happen it will.. right? Agains thanks for the reply.

[@stevefranklin9920]

Would like to see your video on how to get the lower drive belt off/on the vari-drive pulley on this particular model. Also, why does the lower belt rub against the upper belt tensioner bracket at times?

[@zippiezoo9319]

On my particular model I work the lower belt around the edges of the vari speed pulley.. its tight against the back and you have to work it back and forth but i was able to do this with out removing the pulley.. this is done by removing battery under the seat... your belt must be exact thickness to do this... you are correct about the intermittent rubbing... another youtuber was commenting about this also.

[@IshMotorparts]

I think a got same model but I do hav that video posted for you just go to my channel and look for that video hope this helps

[@69spanks]

My belt was rubbing against the head of a bolt and I ended up putting a longer bolt with a spacer around it. It worked, but I have to change out the plastic spacer every couple years bc it eventually wears it down to where it would rub on the bolt threads.

[@zippiezoo9319]

Thanks for the feedback.. very little tolerance and add belt oscillation .. I used a belt that was just slightly narrower than the oem MTD belt and it would shred it.. went back to MTD belt and am on season 3 and it still looks good.. thanks again

[@DS-bk3mc]

These MTD vari-drives will eat aftermarket belts like candy. An OEM belt will cost more, but last longer. The differences between OEM and aftermarket are not visible to the eye, but OEM will be slightly different in length, width, and v-pitch. For example, and OEM belt on a machine I have will be 0.659” wide, while an aftermarket belt will be 0.625”

[@zippiezoo9319]

Absolutely...there was a slight difference about 1/16" in the width between the aftermarket belt and the OEM..not noticeable at a glance... been 3 seasons since this video and have had NO more problems with the OEM... the story is actually worse than you think...I bought 2 aftermarket belts..it never occurred to me the belts were wrong since the part #matched...but it was a hard lesson learned.

[@mechanic2433]

The belt is rubbing the upper tensioner pulley bracket.u can hear and see back side of belt shaving off.

[@mightymikee]

I have a Craftsmen version of the same mower, LT1600 judging from the drive belt routing. Do I have to undo the middle two pulleys apart to get the drive belt routed? Or is there a clever way to route it through? I previously undone the middle pulley assembly and replaced the belt but my mower kept creeping. Someone told me my belt is too tight. Since then I mowed 1 season and the belt is done. I feel like my belt maybe was too fat. Anyways. Please let me know if there is a quick way to route the drive belt. Thank you for taking time to making the video.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I had to remove 1 of the tension pulleys but it wasnt a big deal.. one stud in the center and its off.. cant remember which one but I think it was obvious..good luck

[@stevefranklin9920]

Problem is on my customers, the center bolt is directly above and approximately 1” above the axle tube which makes getting to it difficult.

[@zippiezoo9319]

Hey Steve, I think we were referring to the idler pulley assembly and you are speaking of the vari speed pulley. That 's a different beast.. If I remember correctly, on my model I had to unbolt the axle, remove the tire to slide it off..I did this to inspect it.. as it turns out all this because I cheaped out on the belts.. NO MAS! My mission now is to warn others.

[@marcmartinovic5366]

The best video yet on this subject. I have transmission belt original requirements 5/8x90.8". When new belt is installed it seems to be jus a hair to small. Adjusting idler bracket assembly original belt size is too small... staring riding mower engine mower moves forward or reverse depend in which gear mower is. That is why I think if belt would be just little longer mower would not move because there would be more slack on the belt until speed pedal is pressed. What do you think? Thank you in advance for your opinion and your suggestion.

[@RickyShew]

Only oem belts will work

[@paulaleksinko9039]

Nice video, I have the same problem with my Bronco, I need to order the spring, Can you please tell me whats the spring name to order the right one? Thanks for your help

[@zippiezoo9319]

The spring part# is 732-04764 Spring Extension, .56 OD x 12.05 (source: my owners manual) recommend you verify using your manual.. just in case.. good luck.. note: maybe use a cable tie on each end when installing.. lost springs seems to be pretty prevalent..

[@marshallrichardson8575]

What would be wrong with it if the belt never stop spinning after you let off the engagement pedal i put that same spring on mine today an my belts keep spinning even if the tractor is in neutral any help please

[@mrchad97z49]

I like your idea about raising the mower.. Floor jack, jack stands and ramps. Anyway, I am surprised these mowers work at all. They are just a bunch of springs, and belts that are designed to rub and lose friction to start moving and stop and its all held together by chewing gum and paper clips. My 2008 TB Bronco makes a Knocking noise when you start to enguage the drive belt(s) and I have no idea which contraption is making the noise... I looked underneath and there are so many belts and pulleys holding the thing together, I am just surprised it has worked as long as it has without any problems. i did figure out which belts are for the drive propultion by pressing the accelerator and watching underneath.. But So far I cannot tell what the problem is.. Oh well.. I will have to monitor it... See if it gets worse..

[@zippiezoo9319]

I know sound like you may need to jack yours to see whats going .. but take care...and use jackstands ..take the wheels off ..safety safety safety.. nothing worth get hurt over.. use OEM belts...don't just go by the part number.. they are NOT the same.. 2008..haha.. love it... keep it going and don't let it wup ya..

[@IshMotorparts]

Hi, I don't know if you find the problem But here I'm speaking by experience There is a belt divider it eats up the inside the belt immediately if it's too short or worn out I just recently had my third fix two husky bronco, and last was Troy bilt,and it's the some problems But this time I made a video and its included in the video hope this helps

[@zippiezoo9319]

I just inspected both belts just this week and they looked like new actually so my problem is resolved but by belt divider do you mean the variable speed pulley.. because that was my problem and it indeed was eating the inside the belt like you said.. anyway.. I will check out your video and thanks for your help.

[@IshMotorparts]

zoo ok by looking at your video at owners manual, it shows there its says Keeper Pins, but I call it divider , lol

[@IshMotorparts]

zoom on the other part of your video I think there's # 45 and 25 above those there is the drive belt and a number but i can't see what's that numbers so right between those bottom numbers and the top one the keeper pins its located in there

[@zippiezoo9319]

@@IshMotorparts got ya.. I'll definitely check that out and reply back .. good night

[@Weezulguy]

You got too much slap in the belt man, gonna burn that one up too. It shows you right in the manual on how to adjust the rod that connects to your pedal, after the drive belt replacement section.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I just checked my drive belts and they look like new ..been about a year since the video so my initial problem is resolved however it is slapping around too much.. and will go back and look at that adjustment because it shouldn't do that.. thanks for the tip.

[@Weezulguy]

@@zippiezoo9319 it's a pain to dial in. I had the bracket too far out at first and am getting ready to adjust it in for the third time.

[@zippiezoo9319]

@@Weezulguy keep me posted if you would.. working on another headache but will have to revisit before I mow again..thx

[@Weezulguy]

@@zippiezoo9319 I hear ya. Trying to build some fall garden beds here, we finally got a break from the rain this summer.

[@jabroski69]

@@Weezulguy when you say it's hard to dial in, got any tips on this? I burned up a belt (was pulling a heavy trailer a lot) replaced my belt and at first I it wanted to keep going like the belt was 2 small but made a few trips around the yard with it and it was doing good but 3 weeks down the road it is now slipping torn took the belts off checked for bad bearings but they're all good I adjusted the clutch then put it back together where it was fine then turn around a week later and it's slipping again so I'm fixing to do this again and just wanted to since you've done it so much if there are any shortcuts or hacks you may have figured out.

[@scottseal418]

Where'd does the skinny spring connect

[@arloarlo5812]

This is the video I've been looking for to solve my problem on my 2009 Bronco! This large idler spring from the gas pedal was also lost on my tractor, but once I installed a new one, I saw that when the gas pedal is engaged (while the tractor was still off) the two small pulleys pull away from the belt, making it very relaxed/lose. If I start up the tractor and engage the gas pedal. I'm afraid that the belt is gonna come flying off the pulleys and get eaten up. When the gas pedal is pushed all the way down (full throttle) is the belt supposed to be very loose around the pulleys, especially the two smaller pulleys? At first, I thought I had ordered the wrong belt, and that it was too long, but I verified that it is the same size as the old one. Your comment please?

[@zippiezoo9319]

Just the opposite... when the pedal is engaged the two idler pulleys put tension on the larger belt until it comes tight against the engine drive pulley .... yeah somethings not right there.. the manual has the exact belt size but I recommend the manufacturers belt OEM genuine MTD part. Aftermarket is hit or miss. Once you miss you learn...hope this helps..

[@zippiezoo9319]

Also... if you don't have the manual you can download it from troybilt.

[@davidstabler6944]

Hi what is that spring called? Thanks David.

[@zippiezoo9319]

It's in the manual.. on the exploded parts sheet.. Description 'Spring Tension' part#732-04764.. it doesn't have a name in the manual..just a description. Refer.#20 Transmission...just curious, did you loose yours also?.. I put a couple of cable ties on mine and it's worked fine for a couple years now.. good luck!

[@barryf5479]

I bought a used Bronco a couple of years ago. The belt started smelling like burning rubber and eventually smoked and threw itself off the variable speed pulley in the back. I replaced my lower drive belt (the 5/8 x 91 one) with a non-OEM Kevlar belt of good quality. It worked but the crankshaft pulley gets really hot and the new belt started smoking. Also when it's sitting with no pressure on the pedal, it wants to creep forward. The belt is NOT tight on the crankshaft pulley when it's just sitting but again, gets hot and smokes. I've read that getting non-OEM belts can cause overheating of the belt. Have you run in to this?

[@zippiezoo9319]

Yes.. it was my main problem.... with mine the width was about an 1/8 "narrower and 1/8" deeper V and i didnt notice the difference... kicking myself for not buying oem

[@mikehill1376]

91.8 " is exactly correct length I've found thru much research

[@426superbee4]

You got a little rubbing on the tension pully brace 5:30

[@zippiezoo9319]

@426 Super Bee, As it turned out that was one of the symptoms of using cheap aftermarket belts.(discovered after much anguish). there's not much tolerance there to begin with, so everything has to be perfect.. I just inspected the drive belts after a full season and they look almost new. Thanks for the feedback and help..

[@426superbee4]

@@zippiezoo9319 WOW that tension spring suppose to aloud for that. Even for those cheaper belts, The cheaper belts does stretch out more faster > I hope you have Good Luck with it! Cheers Thanks for the update

[@bauer0912]

I was wondering if you, or if you know of, anyone that has a video of what to take off to route the belt through the middle pulleys? The bracket is blocking simply routing it through and I dont know what I need to take off to get the belt through the middle pulleys.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I dont know of a video.. but I am familiar with what has to be done on this model..Its not difficult..You remove the center stud that goes through the rear pulley..this will allow you to swing the bracket out of the way.. Again as i remember it's been a year ago..it was pretty easy..good luck.

[@bauer0912]

@@zippiezoo9319 Thank you for reply. Ill try later.

[@NWOslave]

i know this comment is from last year but this video is probably what you are looking for. i had to do what was recommended to get the pully off kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnLKfH5np7CGaLs

[@426superbee4]

There enough thing that tells you the size belts you need. So I just size them up and get them about 2 inches shorter from stretching Most cases i 'am dead on ~ You got some rubbing going on the tension pulley brace 5:30

[@zippiezoo9319]

I know but theres no adjustments or anything worn that I can see.. it appears to be the design albeit a bad one, but props to you for catching that.. I just dont know what to do about it. So far though the OEM and belt has got me half through season.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I will try your suggestion next time about the shorter belt..thanks

[@426superbee4]

@@zippiezoo9319 it was easy i seen the smoke from the belt. Some thing not right there, some thing is bent or a weak spring for it to be rubbing. The belts jumping could be from weak spring or a stretch belt. Most cases they will jump some > Mine if the belts are to tight the blades want disengage

[@emanuellchavez814]

Which is the size of the belt I been struggling trying to find it!

[@zippiezoo9319]

On the model shown for this video.. it has two belts for the drive, a lower and upper and of course the deck belt.. upper belt 954-04208 40.9 poly and the lower 954-0467A 90.93 poly (from the manual). My lesson learned is to not cheap out, bite the bullit and buy oem belts.. the ones I buy now says genuine MTD part.. especially mower belts. You can get away with cheaper on some things but not mower belts. Sorry for rant.. Just checked my belts yesterday and they look good so far.

[@afhostie]

Where'd you find those diagrams?

[@zippiezoo9319]

Just saw this... sorry for the late reply.. the parts blow up is from the owners manual..If you dont have it you can download it from Troybilt web site. the routing diagram, I will have to go back and find.. this was my first video.. I should have put this in the description.. Thanks for watching.. if I find the other I will reply to this thread..

[@taddmeyer7697]

can someone take a picture of where the little tension sprong for the gear select attaches from the handle to the frame???? i cant for the life of me figure this out....

[@AllanCarrie]

Do you have link for the spring? I cant find it

[@zippiezoo9319]

Purchased on ebay 3yrs ago link no longer available..here's the part info to search for. Original MTD Spring 753-08301 Compatible With 732-04764 $14.87 Unit price $14.87 Return window closed on Sep 27, 2020.

[@arttarr8244]

I discovered this problem on my Troy-Bilt mower when I bought it brand new the problem is one of the keeper pin bolts is too short and the belt actually rides on the hex head I replaced it with a longer Bolt and sleeved it so that it rides on the smooth part I don't know why dealers haven't discovered this

[@zippiezoo9319]

Exactly!

[@straightopoint]

Bronco is not the only one, XP Horse also.

[@zippiezoo9319]

Thanks for the info.. looks like they would do a better job securing it.

[@mikehill1376]

Pony should be same also . Bronco has deck wheels , kohler not Briggs and seat a little bigger ..only difference on 2015s

[@mikehill1376]

Also Cub Cadet belt same ( # starts with 7 instead of 9)

[@mikehill1376]

Adding ..my mower threw the same spring once

[@cristianmdn]

Where did you get that diagram from?

[@zippiezoo9319]

Get back with you tomorrow.. I'll try and post it here or maybe the link.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I added the links in the description. Hope that helps,

[@marvinhicks4477]

After changing belts on my Troybuilt bronco it wants too Continue moving without foot on throddle pedal……any suggestions

[@joshuamichael2463]

This just happened with my Troybilt bronco, what did you wind up doing to resolve the problem?

[@marshallrichardson8575]

Mine doing the same even drive off in neutral

[@RickyShew]

You need oem belts

[@MSBruce-fx1nx]

The belt is routed wrong I think. It needs to route around the variable speed puppy the other way. You may want to recheck it.

[@zippiezoo9319]

No, my main problem besides a missing spring was the use of a third party belt (that had correct part # by the way). The third party belt was the same length but was 1/8" narrower which caused it to ride too deep in the variable speed pulley where it was chewed up by burrs. After which I replaced with a OEM MTD belt.. runs like a charm.. thanks for your input!

[@matthewinga9546]

My problem was new belts are 5/8”, old belts were 3/8”. I went back to 3/8” belts and all the belt problems went away for me.

[@felipesandoval4440]

having the same problem since i bought it used very nice condition that beklt sits outside uncovered your gunna dry it out i just replaced it in febof2023 thank you

[@scottmarkham9466]

The belt appeared to run into the idler spring !

[@zippiezoo9319]

Yes it does.. too close.. but it has worked like this for 2 years now...the belt still looks good.. the problem turned out to be a aftermarket belt..the oem belt (in the video) albeit next to the idler spring works fine.. I thought it was the problem too.. good eyes and thanks for your comment.. I learned a rookie lesson the hard way.. go with OEM belts! It's not worth headache..later.

[@patmadix172]

Afraid to remove tire that nut will probably break

[@gingi801]

Do you have a part number?

[@zippiezoo9319]

There are 2 drive belts for this model upper and lower: upper (smaller belt) 954-04208 v belt 5L 40.9 poly and the lower belt (larger)954-0467A v belt 5L 90.93 poly. Just because you find a matching part number doesnt neccesarily mean it will work. I found this out the hard way. Finally ended up with a "genuine MTD parts" and fixed the problem. Good Luck!

[@gingi801]

@@zippiezoo9319 do you have the part number to the spring?

[@zippiezoo9319]

@@gingi801 aahh. You lost a spring... the spring part# for the 2013 bronco is 732-04764. Good Luck

[@gingi801]

@@zippiezoo9319 thank you!!

[@philliphall5198]

Spring get weak and rusty Check adjustment on panel also

[@426superbee4]

The Craftsman T140 got the same junky set up! I 'am having a belt started jumping the idler pulley guard, on the transmission belt. and it keep Jumping the dam pully. Idk how in the world it can jump threw the pully guard but it does. AND A BITCH to get in back threw the pully guard! Every thing else is correct. HOW IT JUMPS THREW THE PULLY GUARD is a Mystery ! 😡 The spring on it is super strong! The belt guard is so close to the pully it can't get threw it. How it does? is beyond me? Might be the belt is stretching > who knows? might be the idler pully bearing heating up, to stretch the belt out to. WHO KNOWS ?

[@Firstmajortomlikestoticker]

Yes No Belts on an Electric mover

[@zippiezoo9319]

Well.. I have to use what I have..for now anyway seasons about over.. and it's gone pretty well this year.. thanks for feedback

[@petev.9357]

So I have a 2000 MTD Yard machine with the exact same system of variable pulleys. Still works great. I only replaced the drive belts once so far. Lots of hard use. Taryl has great videos on changing those belts. He just turns the tractor on its side. You need to remove the variable pulley assembly and clean and lube it. Then install correctly with all washers in right place. Also. No substitutions on belt brands. Get official OEM belts. Taryl used 1 Rotary and one other brand. Might work, but spend the money on OEM. That spring is different on my MTD, much tighter, I never lost it. Even though Troy Bilt is made in the same factory in Ohio as MTD (as is Craftsman, and MANY others) there are differences in springs etc. Cool video, neat to see the belts in operation. Variable pulley operates just like a CVT or a snowmobile. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6a0loGArLRlsKc Here is Taryl's video. Look past the goofiness, He knows his stuff.

[@zippiezoo9319]

That's encouraging... good advise I think.. because the no compromise on the belt rule bit me..I bought 2 kevlar belts using the part number..and that was the problem thinking no way 2 belts would be bad..welp.. I wont make that mistake again.. genuine mtd ..for belts.. Taril was right.. I will subscribe and thx for feedback.

[@MrUnknown7212]

It’s a bad design. Both belts on my lawnmowers are eat up . Troy Bilt.

[@zippiezoo9319]

I don't care for it either.. even though knock on wood, since i replaced the spring and new OEM belts.. its worked ok this season thus far.. but I afraid to look at the belts haha.

[@darlenedimarco7999]

Variable drive pulley bearings

[@zippiezoo9319]

That's what I thought too.. but it was cheap belts kevlar too.. plus a missing idler arm spring but mainly the belts.. the v was a bit deeper than the OEM genuine MTD.. I didnt notice it.. the crappy belts had the correct part # but it wasnt exact width or depth.. diameter was spot on.. thanks for input...

[@Unsocial01]

That is not the spring for that mower

[@zippiezoo9319]

Are you sure? because it's the part# from the original owners manual plus it's OEM part from MTD who makes the mower..and its been working like a charm for a over year now..

[@jabroski69]

I hear your accent I'm gonna say your from upstate sc

[@zippiezoo9319]

What accent? Haha... very close...lower NC.

[@jabroski69]

@@zippiezoo9319 haha I must have been drunk cussing my damn pos troy bilt drive belt looking up vids for answers bc I dont remember making this comment lol but man this pos is pissing me off my broncoe either eats them up or just now dead mid lawn mow I have a 90" long 5/8" wide belt. What size does your drive belt and deck belt run bc troy bilt told me 96.5" x 1/2" and wasn't even close for deck so they don't even know currently I have a 90x5/8 on drive and 1/2 x 107" deck belt (deck belt is close but no cigar as when I lift to level 5 it runs the blade so to short lol but that's the longest lowes or tractor supply has

[@philliphall5198]

Read the manual

[@357bullfrog9]

One thing is sure you won't get any help from troy built

[@zippiezoo9319]

We are on our own.. if you smell a belt it's too late.