Trumpeter 1/200 DKM Bismarck Full build with Pontos detail set Part 5A

In the first of a two part episode we start painting the hull.
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[@plungingfirescalemodeling2441]

Using the clear tape to hold the template is such a good tip instead of messing about trying to tape just the edges. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheModelShed]

Yes much easier and accurate as well 👍

[@craigjewkes]

Hi Steve absolutely loving this build, thank you. I served as a RN Submariner for 16 years and the zinc plates are used for corrosion protection (called cathodic protection system) and used heavily when there areas where different metals come into contact, brass alloy propellers and steel structure. The zinc plates are the sacrificial part of the process.

[@TheModelShed]

Chers Craig I’ve learned something this week 👍

[@midnightsuns1000rr]

If you need tape a specific size, there is a tool that can cut tape to any width you need. It is a pinstripe slitting tool. Its made for vinyl pinstripe tape, but it should work on your tape as well. It makes very straight and consistent cuts. I like custom auto trims unit, its a small hand held unit that works very well.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Greg I’ll look into that 👍

[@tedjinla]

Outstanding job, thanks for the tip on the Tamiya 50/50 hull red/flat red mix. I’ve always struggled with the right shade on my hulls.

[@TheModelShed]

👍

[@cratecruncher6687]

Love the 4K! At 19:30 I notice your dislike for fiddly waterline work. I started using a pencil taped to a block to mark a straight waterline using the base board as my datum. It takes a few minutes to set the ship up on the base but once it's done you can mark it and have those references forever. I got that datum thing from my rc pattern planes. Those birds have to be straight.

[@TheModelShed]

Yes I used a similar method on my wooden 1/72 victory - worked well 👍

[@aussiefrenchman-hobbytable9960]

Ar my favorite glue Revell contact professional 😊😊😊😊 just brillant to watch ,as always mate 😊😊😊😊 have a good one

[@TheModelShed]

Thank you 👍

[@roncalverley]

I like your modification to the hull red. Looks good Steve.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Ron 👍

[@usssaratogacv3lefevre978]

Hull red looks good Steve, and nice touch on the rudders. See you Sunday.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks I prefer it too. 👍

[@ModelkitStuff]

The Tamiya hull red is the correct colour for IJN ships, your quite right to adjust the colour. The Zinc anodes on the rudder are to attract marine bacteria and keep it away from the propellers, which is why they are only in that area. You will need to ad some onto the shaft line a-frame legs as the kit has omitted them. Looking good Steve.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Jason I didn’t know about XF9 being for IJN but it makes sense now I suppose

[@loken67]

Hi Steve, very smooth underwater hull red paint job. It looks just right. I am very excited about the first top hull camouflage paint job. Stay safe...

[@TheModelShed]

Nearly done Ralf- Ingo - just the boot topping tomorrow ready for 5B

[@jeremymishefske1754]

Another incredible build Steve! I love your craftsmanship. I am fully recovered from my Stroke and back at modeling. I am currently working on the Hasegawa 1/48 Raptor and the Revell 1/72 Schnellboot S100. I got the Eduards upgrade kits for both of them. Thank you for everything you do. You are one of the reasons for my Stroke quick recovery. Have a blessed day!

[@TheModelShed]

Jeremy it’s wonderful news that you’re recovered from your stoke and are back in the hobby. I’m really pleased you enjoy the videos. My best wishes for your continued good health 👏

[@klaustomczak9083]

Hi Steve, actually this is my first KZbin comment ever.... I love your builds and your fantastic build of the Hood made me skip another project and start a 1:350 Hood myself. As for the anodes on the Bismarck, it is correct to add 3 vertical ones per shaft bracket on their outer surfaces. This has been verified on the actual wreck by a german modeller who went down with an exploration group and built a model of the Bismarck in 1:100 scale, capitalizing on his learnings. He published a book about this model and it is a great resource to complement the Anatomy of th ship book. For the boot topping, this was, according to the ABB (allgemeine Baubestimmungen) exactly 1meter below and 1meter above the CWL, making it 2 meters wide in the Original. If needed I can share the original German text with you. Therefore I would recommend to have it 10mm wide on your model. Please keep on sharing your fantasitc builts, your videos on Friday are a fixed point in my weekly schedule. Thank you for this.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Claus I’ll add those anodes on the shaft brackets. I have done the boot topping today and - my complete luck - used 10mm tape to space the masking tape……..

[@klaustomczak9083]

@@TheModelShed Hi Steve, I just watched the new episode. Your hull paint job with the "ghosted" baltic stripes just came out amazing. I have never seen this paint scheme represented on a model of the Bismarck, and you just nailed it in my opinion. Can't wait until coming Friday for the next episode of your built.

[@mm357germany]

The "zink strips" on the rudders are so called "Opferanoden" (sacrificial anodes). They prevent/minimize hull corrosion and are regularly replaced in function of their electrolytical desintegration.

[@TheModelShed]

interesting thank you

[@garyrafferty8653]

Excellent work Steve, looking forward to Sunday to see the final result of the hull

[@TheModelShed]

I’m pleased with today’s progress Gary - just boot topping tomorrow

[@johntreloar8203]

Nice work Steve.

[@TheModelShed]

Cheers John 👍

[@paulmanuse2353]

It's looking great! The hull red is perfect!!

[@TheModelShed]

cheers Paul 👍

[@chrismonson3581]

Enjoying the build...nice work.

[@TheModelShed]

cheers Chris 👍

[@arthurrytis6010]

I like the intro picture.Looks the God Pan blowing an ill wind to his enemies if you look at it from the right.Great build. Keep up the good work

[@TheModelShed]

Will do thank you 👍

[@Laura_Battleship_Row]

The zinc elements on the rudders and elsewhere below the water line are sacrificial corrosion reduction elements

[@TheModelShed]

👍

[@sandroiavazzo1112]

Hello Steve, I always use a small spray gun for hulls i get a much better finish , painful to wach it being done with an airbrush, anyway great build.

[@TheModelShed]

It was a bit of a chore Sandro but all done now 👍

[@peterfeltmeyer7979]

Steve .... What color grey are you using? I think I heard you say that the grey on the hull was different from the topside grey.

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Peter it’s XF-66 Light grey. The superstructure will be lighter - probably XF-80 Royal light grey. I’ll confirm the upper colour next week when I do the deck fittings.

[@alandeesa3322]

I like this build a lot, thank you!

[@TheModelShed]

Thank you👍

[@ChrisK-LTC]

Looking great, but don't leave us hanging on the Mosquito build.

[@TheModelShed]

No Chris I won’t I’ve got the replacement stencils and I’m going to try to apply them next week. stay tuned 😀

[@jeffmilliner9123]

Steve, why no pre-shading like you did on Snowberry? The technique adds so much depth.

[@TheModelShed]

Good question Jeff and there are 3 reasons. I personally don’t think it suits larger scale models which can carry their own shading in natural light; the second is I wanted my Hood and Bismarck to be “admiralty” style models, and third I just can’t carry off effects like that consistently across a complex build and over such a long time. I’d have it looking like a patchwork quilt.

[@jeffmilliner9123]

@@TheModelShed Steve. That all makes perfect sense. Thanks!

[@gregcain1906]

Great build so far Steve. I've learned a lot about the hull from watching your videos. One question I have concerns the drilling of the holes for the GHG. Did you drill completely through the hull or just deep enough to give an illusion of the GHG? Keep up the superb work.

[@TheModelShed]

Just a mm or so Greg - no need to go all the way through although I don’t think it would matter if you did. 👍

[@gregcain1906]

@@TheModelShed Thanks Steve, that's what i was thinking too.

[@sukf3648]

Hi Steve, what grey color codes do you use for the hull and the superstructure? Cheers Ulli

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Ulli I’m using XF66 light grey for the hull and XF19 sky grey for the superstructure

[@sukf3648]

Thanks a lot!

[@leonarddecant8566]

I may have missed it but what did you use for the hull gray?

[@TheModelShed]

XF-66 light grey Leonard 👍

[@markknight3983]

Hello Steve, Followed you with the HMS Hood model so this series should be epic !! Just a quick question- is the Mosquito model now finished ? Apologies for my ignorance if I missed an episode of that series !! PS Do Trumpeter do 1/200th scale models of Prinz Eugen or Prince of Wales ?

[@richmondtigers7495]

No Trumpeter kits for these among their 30 or so 1/200’s. I believe Occre do a 1/200 Eugen

[@markknight3983]

Thanks for that - I'll look for the Prinz Eugen model !!

[@TheModelShed]

Hi mark no I’m doing some more on the Mossie this week. hoping to get the next part out in the next week or so

[@markknight3983]

@@TheModelShed Thanks for the quick reply - you've made me want to start modelling again !

[@jonathanhall2401]

The zinc was sacrificial, it eroded, oxidised, instead of the steel of the hull

[@andrewgillis3073]

I knew some one would beat me to it!

[@TheModelShed]

Well I’ve learned something this week - seems like I’m the only one didn’t know about sacrificial zinc strips 😬😬

[@andrewgillis3073]

@@TheModelShed Old wooden ships didn’t need them, but once iron hulls became a thing, ships became giant batteries. Unless one owns a boat or had experience in the navy, it’s pretty obscure knowledge. The plates were bolted on so they could be easily replaced.

[@Jeff-cv4qn]

The zinc strips are sacrificial anodes on real ships

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Jeff 👍