Trumpeter 1/200 HMS Hood Full build with Pontos detail set Part 38 (Quarterdeck details part 2)

In this video we finish the quarterdeck, fit the ladders and platforms to the rear screens, and finish the aft of the ship.

[@edwinvandenberg4025]

I have watched all your video's and after a couple of 1/350 scale ships (Bismarck, Missouri, Arizona and the Graf Zeppelin) I decided to make the Hood in 1/200. Your work is a true inspiration for me. Keep up the good work and many thanks for sharing it with us.

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Edwin thank you for your kind comments. Welcome to the channel and the best of luck with your own Hood build.

[@flugwuzzi]

Exellent work on all those photo etched parts. They add so much more detail to the model. Keep up the good work!

[@TheModelShed]

Will do 👍

[@garyrafferty8653]

You're now on the home straight Steve, looking superb. Enjoy your walks hopefully the Weather will be kind.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Gary

[@richmondtigers7495]

Another nice update, great work on the PE again. I did a few walks in the north of England in the 90s Penine Way for one which was very pleasant.

[@TheModelShed]

The Pennines way is tough. We’re following the last stages of the coast to coast trail around the North Yorkshire moors to Robin Hood’s bay which is a good walk but not as demanding as the pennines

[@richmondtigers7495]

@@TheModelShed sounds wonderful, yes pennine way very tough, but lots of beauty, would love to do the Hadrian’s wall walk if I ever came back to UK

[@usssaratogacv3lefevre978]

Great stern looks good. Enjoy your walk next week, it's always good too get out.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks I’m sure we will

[@alancrowley7991]

Good stuff Steve, enjoy your walks, make good use of the good weather!!

[@TheModelShed]

Thank you, I will

[@andrewgrace4410]

Amazing work Steve

[@TheModelShed]

Cheers Andrew

[@jzghostrider66]

Very nice work Steve. Getting close to the finish line on this one. Nice fix on that port screen. Thanks for the call out.

[@TheModelShed]

Thank you and thanks for the heads up

[@Snowdog2711]

Another great update, thanks Steve...enjoy your walking!

[@TheModelShed]

cheers Roy

[@roncalverley]

40:43 Yes, much sharper detailing vs. the Trumpeter plastic ones. 48:15 Tell me about it, haha! The trick is to "not" use a macro lens. Nice work again Steve. 👍

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Ron

[@SeattleTurissini]

Regarding the stern anchor, according to the HMS Hood Association: Dear Dave, Thanks for your question The answer is there is no evidence of a stern anchor being stowed aboard HMS Hood. The Eye Ring at the stern was for a tow rope. All Royal Navy vessels pre-war were required to practice towing another vessel of similar size​, or being towed. And all carried special shock absorbing towing hawsers to enable this exercise. This came about from a British battleship being successfully towed from the Battle of Jutland in WW1.. The other consideration would have been the very considerable weight of the anchor and cable, plus steam winches on the draught aft when the quarter deck was already a bare 8'-10' above the waterline, and in most moderate to rough seas was mostly awash with sea water. So much so that in some circles the Hood was referred to as the "biggest submarine afloat". I hope you find this of some assistance Kind regards, James (Warrand)

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks for posting that David very interesting

[@CAPNMAC82]

Another good episode. Patience pays off once again. And camera work can make us all better modelers. (Or more frustrated, if one spends too much time with 3x or 5x multiplier lenses on.)

[@TheModelShed]

Thank you. I’m not really into the intricacies of camera work it takes time away from building. I aim to get across the gist of what I’m doing rather than drilling right in like some other creators do so I hope it strikes the right balance of keeping up the pace of the build and passing enough information on. And as you say you can get hung up on things that you just don’t see with the naked eye.

[@glenflanderka6504]

Great work.

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Glen

[@glenflanderka6504]

@@TheModelShed Drilling through the deck for the mushroom vents, nice tip.

[@rikertronic8066]

I'm enjoying your build immensely and simply amazed at your dexterity in gloves with those PE parts, soldering too! I'm surprised the ship looks to have such an open clear deck compared to all the newsreel videos I've watched lately or is that a trick of watching on my big TV?

[@TheModelShed]

Hi and thanks. The quarterdeck is as was according to my references and drawings but camera footage perhaps may have other equipment such as ropes and stanchions stowed on deck making it look busier.

[@paulbridge5706]

Morning Steve, as usual great work. I notice that on the smaller vents you used primer. Some modellers use primer and some don't. Have you always used primer on the smaller parts? Also the pen you use when soldering, are you able to advise what it is called

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Paul yes I prime everything no matter how small. For the pen it’s a 2mm fibreglass pencil. I got mine on Amazon it’s the modelcraft one and you can get a pack of refills for it on there too.

[@paulbridge5706]

Thank you sir for your reply and enjoy your walk this week

[@andreaselesky9970]

I really enjoy your videos and have learned some techniques that I will be trying on my build of the U.S.S. Iowa. I would like to know what the tool is that you are using to clean up the photoetch?

[@TheModelShed]

Thanks Andreas - about the tool see my reply @paul bridge two below.

[@andreaselesky9970]

@@TheModelShed, thank you for the information.

[@chrismonson3581]

What primer do you use for PE? Nice work, enjoy your videos.

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Chris. on the Hood build I used an etching primer from a UK auto supplier called Halfords. I decanted it for spraying through the airbrush- there’s a video on the channel showing how to do that.

[@chrismonson3581]

@@TheModelShed Thank you! I think in one of the videos or comments you mentioned that you also use Tamiya Fine primer. Have you had good success with that on PE. I used 4K primer on PE for my 1/350 Tamiya New Jersey and it didn’t seem to help at all.

[@TheModelShed]

Yes Chris I've used Tamiya fine primer as well. Recently on the Corvette build Ive been using Mr Surfacer 1500 through the airbrush. Both it and the Tamiya need to be handled carefully after application as it can chip away. I paint and fit straight away to reduce the chances of this happening.

[@leor2830]

Excellent work, I enjoy your videos very much. As an Aussie I am curious to know exactly how hot it was when you said your shed got hot? I say this bearing in mind that the English think that 28C is hot ( usually get low to mid 40'sC here in Summer)

[@TheModelShed]

Hi Leo. 28 IS hot for us up north. Bear in mind that we wear shorts when there’s snow on the ground so any sign of sun sends us into faints.

[@leor2830]

@@TheModelShed cheers matte

[@kene3519]

I forgot to ask you on the rear quarter deck stairs, did you use any glue @ the wood deck?

[@TheModelShed]

No Ken they don’t need it

[@kene3519]

Great video again Steve, I’ve been wondering which type of flux do you use, acid or water base? I’m a retired plumber and when I’ve used either flux only had to wipe off the excess flux with a clean rag.

[@TheModelShed]

Not sure Ken ill check out the label when I’m next in the shed!

[@nichenson7987]

Isopropyl alcohol will remove most fluxes that are out there. That is what is used for cleaning circuit boards. It should also help with removing any skin oils and etching residue.

[@TheModelShed]

Good tip thanks Nic I’ll give that a go next time