Try this in your own area! I think I could get hooked! Available Light Indoors.

[@lensman5762]

Very nice photographs, Roger and you have managed the vast dynamic range very well, credit also to the Kodak TMY-2. One technique worth mentioning is negative pre-exposure. I used to employ this in my younger days in the 1980s to improve the shadow detail without affecting the highlights too much. It is actually devised for large format negatives, but it can also work for MF. You would point the camera to a uniform and even light source, put a piece of opaque white acrylic in front of your spot meter and point it to the same source of light, you could use a proper gray card instead of the acrylic, if the the card is evenly lit. The measured exposure value is of course a Zone V rendering. Reduce the exposure by about 4 or 3 zones ( stops ) to place the exposure on a zone I or Zone II. Now place the acrylic on the camera lens and make an exposure with the Zone I or II values you got from the spot meter. Then remove the acrylic and photograph the scene normally. This would lift the shadows without affecting the highlights, or in effect you could give the negative less exposure to control the highlights without plunging the shadows into Zone II ( near black ). Since you used the entire roll inside and under similar lighting condition, this technique would have been a viable method. It sounds long winded and complicated but in practice it takes about 15 seconds to pre-expose once the routine has been established. Try it next time and see what you think. It worked for me, and it worked for Ansel Adams, LOL, I am in no way comparing myself to the master BTW. PS: Yashica is a good copy of the Rolleiflex K2A, but the lens is prone to flare. It did work marvelously for the window shot as it gave the light a beautiful glow, but the result was less impressive with the bench shot.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Brilliant. I'll have to have a dabble with that! Thanks. So double exposure? like layering in photoshop sounds like. What would be an ideal opaque item?

[@lensman5762]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, exactly as you mentioned. It is a double expoure. It is not unlike preflashing the paper under by the enlarger, but this is an emperical proess, more guestimating and experience than precise measurements. The only caveat is the camera should be able to double expose. With sheet film and the older Nikon cameras of mine it was a no brainer. You could buy a piece of 10 cm X10 cm X5mm opal acrylic from the Bay for a couple of quid and have a go. Just stay away from ' exotic ' films like those that Adox keeps churning out, all document copy or survaillance films of yesteryears. The HP5 Plus, FP4 Plus, TriX etc are perfect. Good luck.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@lensman5762 I'll try that. Cheers lensman !! What about my small softbox diffuser? Would that suffice? It's fabric.

[@lensman5762]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss So long as you make sure that no texture is recorded on the negative. Its easier said than done. In the beginning I used to have some A4 Kodak Gray Cards. The difficulty was to light them evenly. Didn't you have a set of Essential Film Holders for digitising negatives or similar? They do have an acrylic diffuser.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@lensman5762 Thanks. I'll have a look! See what I've got.

[@edwardcrosby5034]

I always use Tmax fixer with Tmax film. It’s a hardening fixer, and will need more wash time.

[@erichstocker8358]

Every time I watch your channel, I like it more and more. You just demonstrate that you love to take photos. This whether you have lots of success or less. You show that the process is fun. I like that. Love this episode and the photos . Thanks!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Erich!

[@mkshffr4936]

There is a fella that goes around examining and playing the organs in these historic churches. Very interesting stuff. Loved this video.

[@MarksPhoto]

@ 8:51 thank the gods of exposure, YES, it is stop down less light, and open up more light. Preach the truth brother!

[@Martin_Siegel]

I feel you when you talk about the glasses, mate! Similar experiences, I guess.

[@CarmineTavernaPhotography]

1699, nice bell, same year my wife graduated university ;)

[@grahamrichards8531]

Best crackup in the whole vid!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

LOL! Hope you liked the prints!

[@GeezerSmithson]

Proper Roger!

[@fstopPhotography]

It's so nice seeing another photographer using a medium format camera with available light.

[@DaN-wb3wh]

12:25 ist soooo schön! Toll!

[@eltinjones4542]

'Bless you my Son' 📷😂👌

[@michaelacookePDX]

Lovely photographs.

[@kazuyosihiraga7856]

Thank you for the beautiful photographs!

[@cindywho134]

Beautiful photos!

[@brycepinson8641]

light overcast plus big window= giant soft box! well down. love the shot of the pews with the lens flair

[@richardg6109]

124 G is a great camera!

[@largophoto]

nice capture of the two windows...///..and a little devine illumination ...ps..I was not a great Alter boy ///

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Nicholas!

[@aliidrissi-sbai808]

Thank you for another delightful video. I like your methodical approach and explanations.brilliant photos.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Ben

[@robhosailor]

Beautiful location, interiors and pictures! 🥰

[@joecomeau6111]

That lens flair adds some etherealness to it. Without it i dont think that image is as strong. Great shots!

[@CountDiLuna]

Brilliant video and beautiful photos. I particularly enjoyed hearing your thoughts as you metered for the various compositions.

[@carstennorwaynorge2195]

Very nice lokation and very good pictures

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks a lot

[@adrianlong6701]

Beautiful images Roger the square format really worked. Reminded me of Joseph Sudeks images of Prague castle

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Many thanks!

[@yorkieinnz4648]

👍Thanks, An Informative and entertaining presentation as always. 🙂

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

My pleasure!

[@Larpy1933]

Once again: very nice work… both your videography, well-exposed negatives and sweet prints. I like the way you superimpose film ISO, aperture and shutter speed settings over the video frame. Good luck, Sir!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Larry

[@davecarrera]

I take many pictures of our little church on the hill, but have never been inside. Time to change that.

[@hanschristian4350]

Thanks!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

WOW Hans... Thank you so much!! Very kind. 2nd tip I ever had. Kind.

[@ccoppola82]

Not sure if you’ve ever tried, but for complicated light like that it may be worth using a 2 bath development to reign in the highlight density. Something like a Barry Thornton 2 bath or vestals divided d76 has worked wonders for me shooting into sunsets and keeping the shadow detail while retaining highlights. I imagine it would do the same in this situation.

[@petervanorsouw2858]

As well, may I ad, ID11/D76 at dilution 1+3 gives T grain films more details in the shadows and high lights . I have just rediscovered FP4+ at dilution 1+3 gives the best, for me details in shadows and high lights.📸

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I've only ever tried ORWO UN54 with T2B. It's not a developer I regularly use though. As Peter said possibly diluted ID11. Grain was nearly non existent at stock so a little increase wouldn't hurt.

[@antonionardoni9668]

wonderful photos, then taken with the camera of my dreams, very good, for now I am satisfied with an ikon zeiss 521/16 ... a greeting from Italy, good light!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Good choice!

[@JonnyEnglish-gu1cs]

I spent a day at Canterbury Cathedral back in the 80s shot inside and out had a blast all in HP5 picked out 6 for my portfolio for my exams something I forgotten to do again

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Canterbury Cathedral is beautiful

[@klickanalog]

Great episode of a different type of shooting location. I am not the typical churchgoer…but this might lures me in again👼Thanks for sharing

[@michaelberger1001]

Really good video and really good pictures. I was really looking forward to seeing this video since i saw you posts on instagram.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@danem2215]

Scenes like this are why I'm incredibly grateful for digital. Or I'm just easily discouraged! Lot of work and great results from it

[@freesewatches335]

Thanks for another great video Roger, and for continuing to inspire us!

[@kzed0]

I really liked your more methodical approach in this episode - looking for compositions, determining best exposure, etc. Great prints too.

[@Vintage35MM]

I especially enjoyed your thought process for determining exposure. I’m gonna watch several times to pick up the nuances

[@evanspaulding672]

Always love that you try new things with your photography AND your videography!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks so much!

[@kevin6685]

what shutter cable are you using? I cant figure out what cable to get :(

[@amosk24]

Great job Boss! I'm in the NW of USA, so some of our churches are over 100yrs old 😂

[@piotrphotography]

Great movie. after watching, I bought a sweatshirt in which it appeared. I will wear it when shooting. :)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Awesome!

[@peterkay9050]

Brilliant video. You have inspired me to take my Yashica-Mat into our local medieval priory. I am testing some Bergger Panchro 400. God only knows what I am going to dev it in because it doesn't like original Rodinal or Caffeinol. N&T say Bellini Hydrofen works well so that is the likely candidate.. Thanks for the inspiration, I just hope I don't cock up the exposures. Wish me luck :)

[@Kitsaplorax]

I found that Bergger 400 really performs well in FA-1027, aka Clayton 76 1:14 @ 20C. If you don't like Rodinal (I use it 1:65) I'd try a two bath D-23 or a really high dilution developer,

[@peterkay9050]

@@Kitsaplorax brilliant, thanks. It looks like fa1027 is going to be hard to source in the UK but it is on my wish list because the reviews are excellent. I will probably finish the roll tomorrow so for this one it's either ID-11 or Rodinal speziale (bellini hydrofen)

[@GregoryVeizades]

@@peterkay9050 if you can get Bergger PMK developer. Definitely consider that. Or Microphen.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I've not shot much of that film Peter. I'm sure your ID-11 will be fine but here is a link showing various developers including PMK that Gregory mentioned. filmdev.org/recipe/search?search=Bergger+

[@peterkay9050]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I developed it in Bellini hydrofen and it was disappointing. The highlights were a bit muddy so I will be sticking with Delta, HP5, Rollei retro etc. As for the church shots, thanks to your advice they came out beautifully :)

[@abdullarashid1204]

Well done on the video as always Roger! That thing where you used your phone to read the aperture, GENIUS!!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hey! (Waving)

[@gpholmes3779]

Roger, one of your best yet! Loved the location and shots. Thanks again for sharing such detail.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@garychatfield6709]

Excellent video! That's the best one you've done since the last one!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers mate

[@chrisreich40]

Delightful video. A genuine pleasure to watch. I'm so glad you mentioned the film developer you used. Brilliant idea to change the paper developer based on the first results. Wonderful subject matter and so nice to see how you use the light meter. I love my TLR cameras but always use a lens hood. With a hood, I'd have never experienced your 'happy accident' of the flare from the window. I'm the kind of guy who would have shot Tri-X to gain more grey-scale, and would have bracketed exposure, but that's me. Nice job; a genuinely enjoyable video from start to finish. Thank you for your work.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Chris.

[@stefan_becker]

Yes, that's also an issue for me: being unable to use my Yashica Mat 124G without my glasses. Unfortunately this is not a Zenza Bronica. For Bronicas you can get correction lenses even for the waist level finder(!).

[@neptunimas4736]

Great Video! Those shots turned out really well!!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks

[@rickloseyphotography]

😁 I sometimes do the same thing with my phone's camera when my reading glasses have wondered off. Or I use the built in magnifier that's on an Apple phone. Very nice shots

[@jakemico]

Love it! I’m on the IOW this weekend with my 67…. Where would you recommend for a casual stroll?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Loads of nice photo places. Have fun!

[@RCAvhstape]

My main camera is a Minolta Autocord TLR with a built-in light-powered meter and that's usually all I bring with me (plus a tripod and cable release). I have a flash unit I can use with it, but aside from a few test shots I rarely bother, as I guess I'm too lazy to drag lots of gear around and available light is what I'm used to. For this kind of stuff I can see where a spot meter is essential. Guess I should start packing mine next time I know I'll be indoors.

[@podhoncisty]

Beautiful pictures 😍😍😍 I use the same trick with smartphone when I can't see numbers on camera 🙂

[@kevinthephotographer9346]

Last time my iPhone upgraded IoS, it added an app called "magnifier" which works a little bit like the camera app, but allows you to magnify what you are seeing (although it doesn't take a picture). I find it even more useful than taking a photo to check out the camera settings.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I didn't have a magnifier or at least couldn't find it ha ha. A real pain that was.

[@kevangogh]

Nice video, great shots. I kept saying to myself over and over, however, why does he not pull his film down from 400 to 100 (or even 50)? Over expose, under develop is the technique a scene like that was made for. He still got good results but it would have made the darkroom work way easier. FP4+ shot at ISO 50, ID-11(stock), 6:30 min at 20 C.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Nice shout Kevan. I more than likely would have if I was on Large Format and wanted a couple of shots of the windows. Darkroom wasn't hard. Just a bit of Dodging on the ceiling.

[@neilpiper9889]

I always use a bayonet 1 Rollie lens hood on my 1957 Yashica Mat with the 75mm Lumaxar f3.5 lens. Probably unnecessary, it just looks better. A hangover from the days of using pre war Rolleicords with the Zeiss Triotar 4.5 uncoated lenses.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I must get one Neil!

[@CornishMotorcycleDiaries]

Quality content as ever Roger and I do love the way you make interesting images from subjects which many would reject as mundane, I think this reflects one of your key skills which is a really good understanding of composition. Only thing I would highlight, which is in no way related to photography is that in this video and some others of yours recently there is some smearing or softness which is probably some weird technical issue and not related to content at all.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers. Please let me know where in the video you saw this, I'd appreciate it. Email if you want. Cheers.

[@Webpromotions]

We're away on holidays at the moment and I thought I'd give this a go in Portland (one of Australia's oldest towns). A word to the wise. Make sure you actually have film in your camera before shooting off 24 shots! Doh! (Love your videos)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Scott.

[@tonyhayes9827]

I think the church is C of E and yet there's a statue of Mary in there. Interesting. Still if it pre-dates Henry 8th. Maybe the statue does too!

[@Uwe_Ludolf]

Did you took a picture of your money before you donated too? Or did you found at that you threw in a £50 note at home? 😜🙈 Nice video, to prevent this kind of parallax you can measure the centre centre distance of the taking and viewing lens and higher your tripod with this distance. With my C330 I have a special "tool" for that, a Paramender. I'm scanning my first rolls of Gold in 120 at the moment, I'm very happy with the results.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Uwe.

[@JohnTomasella]

LOL, I can't see without my glasses. I know the pain.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's a pain John! ha ha

[@jezjoseph]

does the mat 124 g meter beyond 400 ? or is it all manual metering after that ?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

400 max

[@jezjoseph]

Cheers . I decided to give it ago it's not here yet but I think it might stop me pining after the Rollie 😅 great vids . Always an enjoyment to watch and I learn alot all the time 👍🏾

[@Kitsaplorax]

Wouldn't using say, HP5 or even FP4 and using two bath or stand development give you a better chance of not burning out the windows while still getting shadow detail? I've found the Delta and T grain films to be almost unusable with the contrasts in the forests in and around Seattle. I've only shot available light so far-our forests are a bit cathedral like in how light falls, especially at noon and the golden hours.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I've had good results with ORWO UN54 and T2B and highlights.

[@mixiepalms8338]

sorry i got your name wrong in the message lol! barry ffs! speak soon and this is amazing

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Terry :)

[@mixiepalms8338]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ha ha

[@jeanjeanjean4360]

nice video as usual,could you just speak a little slowly?i'm french and sometimes it's difficult to understand whithout translation,thanks you for your videos

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Sorry Jean... I will try!

[@jeanjeanjean4360]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you