Trying to FIX a Faulty £54 ($70) Nintendo Switch from eBay

[@Tronicsfix]

Really, really good video here Vince. So many good fixes all in one video! I bought one of those charging boards too but haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you Steve. I enjoyed this one a lot because the fault was a bit different and easy to prove and re create. Have you ever tried to replace the LCD connector on the main board? I think it would burn really easy but I would love to see how it is done :-)

[@mkm-media1004]

Ĺ⁰9ïm8mwm6ngjy3t

[@metroid031993]

Nice work! I think your troubleshooting skills are improving :) Some info since you always seem interested: - at around 18 minutes, that component is not actually a capacitor, but an inductor. This is used by the voltage regulation IC that's nearby. - excellent work with that white connector. I've not had such bad luck and I'd like to offer some advice; when opening and closing them, never use a single small contact area on the flap. Always use something wider, or multiple smaller things. I think what's happening on your end is you're flexing one side, but not the other, stressing the connector flap in ways that will break it. Hopefully that helps :) - the game cart port I bet just had a bad connection to the motherboard at the end, possibly you knocked it out of place when adding the kapton tape. - finally, I bet you didn't bend those screen pins. It's possible you did, but the seller did list this as having bent pins. Seeing the missing screw, I bet they took it apart and found the bent pins, then sold it off. Possibly the cleaning just moved them out of the way just right such that it cleared the short. Not much else to add. Nice find on the screen connector and good luck on future projects!

[@rigjuice734]

you are sooo clever with

[@nordin_gh]

You're not a Switch killer if the Switch is already dead. Amazing video as always. I learn so much about the Switch even thou I don't have one yet.

[@5leepsWIth5cI55or5]

Words of wisdom Haha. "The problem with peas are they vary in size" Great fix Vince!

[@mickyparker3949]

Vince what a player and persistent player/solver on solving problems. You are an ace mate. Continue and you will break every problem on electric components and game player. Very good patience and stamina. Bless you.

[@Jademoon25]

As soon as you described the noise and symptoms, I knew it was the screen. Im an IT technician and Ive seen that waaaaay too many times on Laptops and All-In-One desktops. It's the biggest pain ever because no matter what type of computer or electronic, you have to take most or all of the device apart to even remove/replace the screen. I love these videos- you my sir, are an artist of fixing!

[@marcianzero_yt]

Glad you had fun. I always question myself why i go on watching this kind of video, while i do have an own broken Switch in the basement, where i've started to "kill" it by incompetent fixing already before christmas. In the meantime more spares have long arrived from far east, so i could have a go any day. Probably just being afraid of having the final "I've really killed this one" result. :)

[@johnogsii7976]

Really enjoyed the video, your perseverance paid off in the end, well done. In this 'throw away' society it's good to see things like this come back to life!

[@ModsOnSteamDeck]

1+ hour video whoop. It's actually sad how much I enjoy / look forward to these videos!

[@x1ic1x]

Same here :) he keeps getting better and better

[@FixDaily]

21:07 this is a typical noise from inductors when something is not right with a dc converter Great video friend!

[@Eremon1]

The hum of angry inductors. lol

[@FixDaily]

@Steven Hawkins Usually it's because of the frequency that at a certain point get's audible by the humans, that's why we hear noise. Actually we hear things because of their oscillations, which creates energy and propagates in the "air".

[@FixDaily]

@Steven Hawkins Thank you friend, appreciate your words :)

[@Rodox2k10]

Would you happen to know how to fix that? I've got that issue and when it happens, I cannot adjust screen brightness on my Switch Lite.

[@FixDaily]

@@Rodox2k10 probably you need to replace the capacitors? This sound also might be generated by capacitors as well.

[@popd8830]

When I seen your video in my feed the only thing on my mind is "the switch killer has returned." Then you start the video with a prayer and I began to cackle madly. Welcome back Vince.

[@MirceaD28]

Nice job Mate. Always a pleasure watching your videos. The plastic clip on that connector is easy to place back. Hold it at a 90 dgs , align it parallel to the connector and make sure that the holes from the clip match to the pins that holds it. Those pins are used as a hinge. Then push it all the way in so every pin gets in the corespondent hole. NEVER use tweezers on connectors. Ipad Rehab advice. and from my experience she is wright

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the tips :-)

[@johncarter9399]

You've now become the switch necromancer.

[@jasongooden917]

Zombie Switch

[@eclectarama]

@@jasongooden917 Swombie?

[@Crazy-qi1gw]

A SWITCH ZOMBIE. THAT'S, THAT'S LIKE A...A.. SWOMBIE! RIGHT? HEH...SWOMBIE, GET IT?

[@eclectarama]

@@Crazy-qi1gw Well done, Crazy. Guessing Mum and Dad helped between your bouts of gaming and GCSE studies?

[@Crazy-qi1gw]

@@eclectarama I don't really know why you're trying to mock me, does my comment offend you? I'm sorry if it did.

[@Beaps73]

Switch killa, the mantal has now been removed. Great vid, I enjoyed that one

[@DavidDavid-tr9tk]

No

[@GadgetUK164]

Another great video Vince =D If you want to make more progress and understanding with these (regards caps and voltages) - for that cap that shorted, it's going to relate to a voltage rail. What I mean is, there are probably multiple voltage rails used by the different chips within the switch, maybe 1.2v, 2.0v, 3.3v etc. What would be super useful is:- on a working switch, measure from ground to each of those caps (when powered up, and also when off). Note down the voltages measured there on the +ve side of those caps. The reason you see a short on the other side of the PCB on another cap is that cap will be connected across the same supply rail. What you found there is a classic example of how a short on a rail somewhere in a system (in this case on a seperate board) can short out a supply rail for everything else in the system. If you know what voltages are on those points on a working system it makes it a little easier moving forward to understand when a voltage is low (sometimes you could get a low voltage) and what uses that voltage. In that respect you know from this repair that the PCB with the short needs the voltage that is missing due to the short. Knowing what voltages are on there, and what uses them can help with systems where it's not obvious where the fault is. Fanastic repair at the end - all working!!!!! I think I would also take some time in the next Switch video to try and work out the easiest safest way to deal with the video connector - ie. try and develop a safe technique or something that you can use moving forward. That connector looks like a pain!!!

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you Chris, some great points and tips. Cheers mate :-)

[@GadgetUK164]

@@Mymatevince Sorry for the wall of text =D Just trying to give you ideas that might help you (and us) moving forward. No one else to my knowledge has even attempted to measure the voltages going to these chips. For example you might find the +ve side of that caps measures 0v when charging, 3.3v when powered (on a working system). That's super useful to know!

[@Mymatevince]

@@GadgetUK164Don't apologise for volunteering your knowledge for free :-)Maybe I could do a crude drawing of the Switch board on both sides and then write the voltages next to each cap. People could then pause the video and refer to it when fault finding their own Switch. It is a great idea Chris. I presume that may also show up the different power rails :-)

[@GadgetUK164]

@@Mymatevince It would be super useful because it leads to a better understanding of what does what, and what needs specific voltages etc. eg. Lets say that pin measures 0v when the Switch is charging, but goes up to 3.3v when the switch is on - that's more than useful info. The next time you get one where you dont understand the cause of a fault (eg. all caps measure OK), you could measure that voltage and if it was missing or low, you can trace back to other places that use that voltage rail to understand what might be causing the fault! =D

[@MichaelBritt23]

Switch Killer has now had a change of heart and began saving Switches! Good job mate! I knew you could resist the forces of evil and use your powers for good.

[@Eremon1]

Don't be too hard on the guy, he does end up with a lot of Switches previously owned by ocean dwellers. lol

[@garageghost6038]

Wow, have been here since you were at 75k subs (I think) and you've grown so much. That just goes to show that you don't need good production quality to become successful. Good job as always.

[@richardhudson3014]

That was a really good job fixing the switch you are improving and you have mad skills rock on Vince🤘🤘

[@h8redflip]

Hey Vince, If you're going to be touching contacts whilst the devices are powered, Please, please get yourself some good old ceramic tweezers. As i'm sure is obvious to you, they will stop any risk of shorting pins and contacts through the tweezers, but will allow you to move bits about and put pressure on pins etc while watching for 'changes'. Love the videos, Much appreciated! :-)

[@xenonkay]

Those flat flex connectors are only rated for a few insertions total. Disconnecting and reconnecting them repeatedly for testing theories or to demonstrate things for the camera is quite likely to break them. That said they generally are off the shelf parts you may be able to source if you know the pin layout/pitch. Also that squeal sounds like coil whine. Maybe there's an inductor with loose windings or not properly potted.

[@jobayliss23]

Thanks vince, you've brightened up my morning overtime at work! Loving the fault finding, it's really helping me with my own 👍

[@mrpanda876]

Great job Vince! I bought a switch from a friend cause he said it was broken, I plugged it in and it gave me the charging icon in the corner and then an hour later it turned on.

[@bellebunart6539]

Hello Vince! Before I watched this video I watched another one where the person gave up on the 0.4 problem while turning the switch on and said it was non fixable. Now that you found out what the problem was and kept on, it got me thinking why I like watching your videos so much: You never really give up and try the hardest to at least get to know what the problem is. With that: Congrats on fixing that switch!

[@KCode01]

Hi Vince, Recently started watching your videos, and I'm enjoying working my way through your current, and older videos like this one. Really impressed by your fault finding on this one. Just thought I'd let you know the purpose of multiple ground pins on a connector; each pin is rated at a specific current rating so usually there's a couple of ground pins on the connectors to spread the current to ground across the pins. One less pin just means that the other remaining pins will have to share sinking the current between them. Keep up the great work!!

[@Daddy80sCool]

Love your fix it vids man, keep them coming.

[@lucasperuzzo5098]

You’re a wizard! Great job dude!! Already a fan!

[@joshheartnet5048]

And yet another amazing video. Really enjoyed this fix. Good job Boss. Keep up the good work and content.

[@Jdbye]

Congrats on another successful repair. In general lipo batteries with a nominal voltage of 3.7V have their minimum safe voltage listed as 2.5V. That doesn't mean that once the battery goes below that level it's junk, just that it's not recommended to recharge a battery that goes below 2.5V as it hasn't been tested for safety at those levels (or has been tested, but failed certain tests), I haven't heard of batteries exploding or catching fire when recharged after being overdischarged, usually you can recover an overdischarged battery but sometimes they will simply not hold charge anymore if they have been depleted low enough or for long enough. Your battery measured 2.58V IIRC, which is still within safe limits. It should be fine to charge it in a Switch. Said tests can be very strict, so for example if the battery loses more than say 5% capacity from being discharged below 2.5V, that could be enough for it to fail the test. The datasheets for lipo batteries list very specific requirements for how the battery should operate, how much capacity loss is acceptable over a certain number of charge cycles and that sort of thing, it's far more than just a safety thing. Generally, the built in protection in modern charge circuits will refuse to charge the battery if it's below what the chip deems as a safe voltage, some cheap Chinese electronics however are purposely designed to trickle charge the battery at a very low (something like 50-200mA) charge current to try to revive an overdischarged battery, likely because the batteries are so poor quality to begin with and are often left in storage for long enough to discharge below "safe" levels by the time someone buys it. The Switch seemed to be able to charge the battery just fine, I don't know for sure if the Switch will refuse to charge an overdischarged battery but it's likely, so if the Switch is able to charge it it should be safe. That USB charger might be useful for reviving overdischarged batteries though - of course charging them away from anything flammable.

[@Mymatevince]

Brilliant info. Thanks for sharing it :-)

[@DanPottas]

Fantastic work once again Vince very pleased for u and hopefully ya switch killing days is ova lol. Abosulutly love been able to sit back and watch your trying to fix vids when they go over a hour really enjoyed watching this nice work.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks so much :-)

[@Bardy20101]

absolutely amazing vince. you are truly remarkable. i love your vids. keep them coming please.

[@victor58010]

Have to admire your patience with this difficult repair -Well done! 😃

[@FatZangief]

Great diagnosis! Your fault finding is really coming on. 54 quid Switch! What a result.

[@mohamadasriabdulazid4784]

That connector available on ali express. It call flap connector. You just count the pin that solder on the pad. And put the pin number on front of the name. Exp: "25pin flap connector". to make sure you buy a correct connector, take a measurement on original connector. It is easy to replace that connector. Just cover other plastic part on the board with capton tape. And put a lot of flux and heat it with hot air. After you remove the connector. And clean the old solder. Put a small amount lead solder on the pad. Put a lot of flux on the pad again, and put the new connector on. After that, lightly hold and press the connector down and slowly put heat around the connector with hot air, until the solder is molten and the connector flat on the board. Make sure the pin and the pad is aligned properly. By the way nice job Vince. 😉

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the tips, my worry with this connector is that the plastic lid would melt before the solder does :-)

[@mohamadasriabdulazid4784]

@@Mymatevince if you apply a lot of flux on the connector it will not melting. And apply heat around the connector, not on top off the connector it self. And keep hot air nozzle moving around the connector. To make it easier get one off those preheater, so you can use lower temperature on hot air. I believe if you practice on salvaging connector on brick device or on pcb, you might get hang on it. How about you make a video on it. It will be fun.😊

[@zavier3644]

My Mate VINCE you should just try it, what’s the worst that could happen?

[@cruise0074]

Great video, more ups and downs than watching a united match. Nice you finally got it working. Keep up these gaming related fixing vids ;)

[@ajd9978]

Its good that you say you're not getting bored of fixing Switches as I've got to say, nither am I. Next you get to get a job lot of them.. Should go back to the 1st one you blew the chips off and replace them from another broken one, you're a lot better at using the hot air now...

[@TheAussieLeo]

Just an FYI (I may have mentioned this in your water damaged one). On the motherboard, between the Power Port and the Battery, there's a small white piece of paper with purple/pink dots. This is a highly absorbent paper with Iodine crystals. If even a *"HINT"* of liquid touches the paper, it will turn entirely purple/pink. So when you pop it open, always look at the colour of that swatch of paper for an instant "Oh good" moment. :)

[@BeerBellyDK]

No, it needs more than "a hint" of liquid to react. It won't happen instantly. I've tried experimenting a little bit with wetting these patches on other Nintendo systems. It does take a bit of time. That means that the PCB could have been exposed to water, and then if someone was fast enough to open it, and dry it out, the patch would not have time to react, but the PCB could still be water damaged, due to the battery being connected. Water, despite popular belief, is not really that dangerous for electronics, unless current is flowing somewhere on the board, then you can almost guarantee something is going to happen. I've also seen boards that were clearly corroded from liquid damage, but where the moisture indicator hadn't turned at all. It's a good indication, sure, but it's not 100% effective. Nevertheless, i agree that it's pretty much the first thing you should check, when opening a switch, or other electronic devices that have them. :)

[@Operational117]

Christian They oughta put these in other areas as well. It’s obviously possible for water to affect one side but not the other (like a brief dip in water that doesn’t cover the entire thing). So one single patch on just one side isn’t a good enough indicator; best to have three or four patches, scattered to the far sides of the board. Then again, I don’t know how much each of those patches cost...

[@Bralkor]

@@BeerBellyDK I dont know about switches but in other electronics those pads are sometimes so sensitive you can "trigger" them by just having the device in a really damp room without causing any actual damage.

[@BeerBellyDK]

@@Bralkor So far as i'm aware, that's only the case with apple products. :) But hey, those guys will use any shady way to void your warranty and just force you to buy a new device.

[@BeerBellyDK]

@@Operational117 Agreed, there should be one near the fan grill or cartridge slot as well. They probably put it where they did, because it's near the USB port, which is an easy entrance point for moisture.

[@cassandraclark7359]

“Since my last killing.” I’m dying

[@MichaelBritt23]

The start of the video had me rolling on the floor! You are hilarious!

[@ecds7393]

I realize this is a super old video and i'm sure you see it but I have been screaming about the wrinkle in the end of the ribbon cable this whole time. Currently at 1:00:54 good work. Very entertaining to watch sir. There is NO training quite as good as learning things the hard way.

[@johnschatz5221]

I love your video I do the same thing across the pond personally. But no youtube channel. I peruse thrift shops for Nice Items that people have tossed because of loose wires and such and fix them. The world today has become a throwaway culture. It's nice to see someone besides me still fixing serviceable items.

[@starchildluke]

I love stuff like this. Great to see the improvements over time!

[@chrisjohns7990]

Thank you for another switch video I'm still working on 2 myself thanks

[@ErroneousClique]

I like hot glue for holding down broken connector tabs like that screen connector tab. Holds much better than tape and easy enough to remove. Wont come loose over time like the tape will as the adhesive breaks down due to heat. Just a little dab on the broken side, from the top down the side of the connector will hold quite well.

[@DEmma1972]

Great vid Honest seller Proper faults Good fault finding Great fix End result: Working switch at a fraction of the price of working sale switch. Will be interesting to see if you can get the battery charged.

[@chrisblaney3453]

The switch killer is no more 😏 another great video good job on the fault finding and man for £54 that’s a steal now!

[@caseyplayz4975]

Past - failing to fix rip-off game-boy Present - fixing Nintendo switch Future - fixing broken nuclear bombs Love ur vids! Keep it up! Also please dont blow yourself up

[@wsketchy]

IF YOU CAN FIX A BIKE YOU CAN FIX A CAR

[@calceus2640]

if u are wondering if u put too much or too little i can confidently say it was a bit much but it will work fine the first dot would be enough beacuse u need just a small layer beetween the contacts and great video keep it up with the fixes !

[@philsey6913]

I was humming along to some of your background music when I realized "Hey, that's the U.S. Army Song...'The Army Goes Rolling Along!" Probably just part of your march mix, but thanks for the nod to your compatriots across the water!!

[@standishgeezer]

Nice fix! Those little battery charging boards are excellent. If connected properly, the battery will not catch fire or be damaged as the whole purpose of the board is to provide protection against over-charging etc. The B+ and B- pins read/monitor the battery voltage status, the outer ('OUT +/-') pins simply provide output (effectively allowing use of a device whilst charging is in progress). Just a case of finding the right connector to marry the battery to the charging board.

[@kevinp2293]

Great Video. Learned a lot from your troubleshooting steps!!! Now I can start working on my switch that does the green light of death when docked. Take care.

[@AleksanderFimreite]

Think this is the first time I'm wishing someone a congratulations for a lost kill streak! Haha =D

[@Live4Ibanez]

Awesome! Glad to see it worked out nice. Love these videos, I like tronix fix but he just doesnt give the details as you do!

[@DjXzo]

I would love to see you do a mod chip install. I bet it would be the most thorough and informative video for it.

[@danskifpv]

Hi Vince, Highly entertaining video and glad you got to the bottom it. Just a little pro-tip, you can use a pair of variable heat hair straighteners together with a flux pen in order to access small areas of the PCB. Its great for those gazillion pin connectors.

[@michaelpegasiou4531]

That squealing is fear,it’s heard your reputation!

[@Operational117]

Nice one. But the Switch can breathe a sigh of relief now.

[@zeewolf1116]

always a pleasure to watch Vince... Just an idea but with all the switch consoles you have.. why don't you do some upgrading on them.. for example... up sizing the internal memory to 256GB ?.

[@DaMu24]

No.

[@BloodyClash]

They called him THE SWITCH FIXER aka. THE MAN WITH THE HAIRDRYER :D That noise you heard is called coil whining. It happens when a capacitator gets out of phase and the magnetic fields makes the coil vibrating. :D and my english makes me headaching

[@hardkore360]

a cap has no coil, that would be an inductor. A capacitor is made up of two parallel plates with a gap in between....

[@Rodox2k10]

Would you happen to know how to fix that?

[@Rodox2k10]

@@hardkore360 Yeah but what exactly is that buzzing indicating? Is it because of wrong capacitance? Bad soldering job? How to fix it?

[@davesmith7671]

I'm sure I've heard similar sounds come out of some electrolytic capacitors on the power board to an LCD tv I was repairing before. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this one Vince.

[@stephenbrady25]

hi vince, i've had the same thing happen with those batteries (too discharged to charge) on a lot of tablets and the solution i found worked EVERY time is to get any usb cable, snip off the micro usb etc end and wire the + (red) to a safety pin and the - (black) to another safety pin (just wind the wire through the hole) open each safety pin and push the pint into to othermost of same color, making sure safety pins cannot touch eachother, some insulator between to 2 to be sure, then using a usb plug (wall socket) plug in usb, recheck connections are solid and not toughing and turn on wall socket, after 10 minutes battery will have enough charge to be put back into device and charge again as normal. i have literally dont this more than 50 times and it worked every single time

[@Mymatevince]

Nice little tip. Cheers Stephen :-)

[@gordoncunliffe8038]

I have no idea if this has anything to do with the gamecard reader but maybe when you cleaned it , prehaps its meant to have a chemical coating on it because, if you know the gamecards have a toxic coating to stop kids eating them, but this is just a random theory that could well be wrong. Great video :)

[@hundjsiegfried]

Definitely my favorite video. Really great job. Oh man i hate ribbon cable connectors...

[@spooktasticaparanormal]

Fantastic fix Vince. Well done.

[@tungadilla]

Awesome job vince, keep these coming. Great price for a now working switch :)

[@daniel784512]

You are the best in fix! I love it, man want Nintendo switch but no money to buy one so sad😢

[@dogsbody49]

I am always thrilled when I see a new video from you (especially a nice long one) I will watch it later. have a good bank holiday weekend Vince.

[@dkracingfan2503]

Same thing happened to my switch in the dock won't turn on and it would only flash green for a second in the dock! I never fixed it unfortunately. if you want I could send you my broken switch

[@vxolimpic84]

Hello. Nice videos. You should try some vinegar or a commercial lime remover on corroded contacts. That would do a more thorough job of corrosion removal than IPA. Here in the US products such as LimeAway or CLR are available. I do not know what is available in England. With IPA you are using a lot of scrubbing to remove deposits. Lime remover chemically removes deposits without scrubbing. Good luck and keep up the good work.

[@io-buggy6925]

Hi Vince,Love your videos. Just the info m92t36 that is on the mainboard can be replaced by BM92T17 BECOUSE ONLY THE STAMP HAS BEEN CHANGED just to fool peaple.the BM92T17 or as we see it as BM92T36 can be used from a dock's mainboard. today I had a switch with stuck nintendo switch logo and not charging,just for test I replaced it with N92T55 that is also in the dock's mainboard. The battery was not charging but the console passed the stuck nintendo switch logo.I could play games until the battery died xD. Then replaced it with a M92T17 FROM A DOCK. Works like a charm,battery charges normaly. Hope this helps.

[@welestgw]

Man I'm impressed you recovered after that pin got pushed out. I figured you were done at that point, at least I'd be pessimistic at that point.

[@mixedkidz]

I really enjoy watching these videos

[@TheOldRogue]

Well done Vince, perseverance paid off with that connector, nice one mate :)

[@CurseAndy]

Haha you guys be commenting that it's good even though it has only been uploaded 15 mins ago & It goes on for an hour.

[@Natei]

Exactly what I thought

[@cwatson42785]

Some people are much faster watchers than others. Duh.

[@3DMegadoodoo]

I always watch at 2x speed and on two screens at once so that I can watch an hour-long video in fifteen minutes.

[@pigsboogawillnepoop9884]

Chris Watson sir I’m very sorry but unless you watch the video in the future or have control over time how do you watch a video faster than others with s all the same info

[@x1ic1x]

Very well done Vince!

[@ThePoxun]

nice fix. for info there are replacement connectors available on ebay and other sources... might be worth orderning a few and have a go at replacing them ...

[@myfastcars]

WOW!! Excellent work! I would love to see you fix that damaged game port. If you ever get a beyond repair screen, can you dissect it and show us how they are constructed??

[@ekens6344]

Amazing job. Can't believe you had the patience to fix the screen connector - twice! On the TP4056 lithium charger boards, B+ and B- go to the battery. So connect the battery there and plug in micro usb to charge it up. Out+ and out- are the optional connections for something that you want to supply battery power to. Say you built a home made torch or something similar that you want to power from a lithium battery, out+/- supplies power from the battery you can use. The chip gives protection e.g. switches off the output before the battery goes flat, protects from short circuits etc that you wouldn't have if you powered things off the battery directly.

[@Irilia_neko]

Normally the battery of the switch have an integrated protection circuit.

[@lordmuaddib]

haven't finished the video, but don't unplug batteries while it's charging, the hiss comes from the transformer probably.. edit: great job on the nasty connector!

[@sdfsdf1960]

Love the vids! We like to use some IPO to dissolve the sticker behind the battery. This tip comes to you from a smartphone repair centre worker in europe with a daily target of 21 confirmed repairs. Cheers!

[@BeerBellyDK]

Here's a thought. If you have a Switch motherboard that is faulty in some way, but with a functioning charging circuit, could you not just use that to charge batteries? I mean it already has the required connections, and it'll stop the battery from over charging, as it's made specifically for those batteries.. Just make a small little case for it, so it doesn't get damaged, then you'd have a nice little dedicated charging station for Switch batteries. :)

[@Irilia_neko]

I think the battery need a working switch to charge I don't think the charger part is separated.

[@BeerBellyDK]

@@Irilia_neko No, it just needs the motherboard, but it can easily have a variety of faults that wouldn't impact the ability to charge a battery. That could be stuff like faulty connectors for the screen, the joy-con rails, and stuff like that. This is also stuff that wouldn't be easily fixable without specialty equipment. The plastic on the screen connector, as an example, would just melt if you applied heat to it in an effort to replace it. So, a motherboard that might otherwise only be useful for parts, or is just heading for the scrapheap, due to a fault that couldn't be fixed, might be perfect for a project like this. :)

[@Irilia_neko]

@@BeerBellyDK ok I see the idea

[@Natei]

Honestly wish I could find a deal like this, not got enough for the price they actually are. Nice find Vince

[@TannerCh]

Excellent video! Thank you for making this!

[@Win1037]

Congratulations on you fix

[@bramvandenbroeck5060]

I hate it when manufacturers glue in batteries like here in this switch! Why not have pull taps or something? Fragile connectors, i have my own history with those, i like to try and fix old apple laptops, and the one that breaks on me all the time is the dreaded keyboard connector on powerbook g4's, especially those 17 inch models are a pain, so fragile! When it breaks its game over, because apple likes to put the power button on the keyboard side, and if i break that lil small connector, there is no way to turn them back on without having to resort to putting a cable on a ground somewhere and shorting out the pins on the motherboard. They should've used a stronger connector, both on the switch and on laptops! Great vid Vince!

[@abir.chowdhury]

I guess that prayer at the start of the video worked 😂

[@yourlocalratz352]

The B + and B - On the usb charger is balance plus and balance negative, I Believe If its a balance charger meaning it charges lithium cells equally... :) love the channel btw :)

[@TY2FADED]

Did anybody else here the battle bus a 47:19 to 47:35?also great vid I love your channel I hope to see more of the vids like this I watch this channel all the time

[@SlasherSRL]

yes

[@CannibalShadow]

The switch killer is back in action haha, love the vids.

[@iFxSnake1]

Just paid £84 for a faulty switch, but the only problem with it is it doesn't charge, except when docked. will see how i get on when it arrives

[@iFxSnake1]

Update: got my switch today and it's in flawless condition baring a missing serial number sticker on bottom. The listing says 'The console would only charge from the Nintendo dock , when a power adapter was inserted directly into the console the battery would not charge. ' Got it with 3% battery and don't yet have a power adaptor but tried it with my galaxy s9 charger and its charging fine drawing 5.07v at 1.5A. so either they made a mistake with the listing and it doesn't dock charge or it's working perfectly fine and sold as faulty.

[@rhylinzux]

Great job on fixing it! I hope this inspires others to do the same to save some money.

[@DownHillCol]

Nice one Vince do you put these back on eBay? Also when are you going to do another Ebay challenge? 😬👍

[@jase555uk]

Really enjoyed this one :) here’s to the next hour + of mymatevince

[@AC_Milan1899]

That connector brings back some nightmares of when I used to fix HTCs - took years off my life!

[@TechThusiast]

Vince, have you ever thought about upgrading the nand to a higher capacity? Would be an awesome video.

[@BeerBellyDK]

Problem is, more than likely the Switch's OS, is on that NAND, so it can't really be done without some way of putting the OS back on the new NAND, which i don't think really exist right now. But it might be worth trying to boot a Switch without the storage attached, to see of the OS is separate. If so, it might be possible, but i highly doubt it. You'd still need the NAND to be formatted correctly, and i don't think you can just do that through the Switch itself. I could be wrong though. The OS would also have to be able to recognize the larger capacity, which it might not be, seeing as there's only that one single configuration available. I really do hope that someone figures out a plug in storage solution, that just replaces the original storage PCB with a new one with larger capacity. It's wasy enough to do that almost anyone could replace it, and upgrade their native storage that way, if larger capacities were available.

[@TechThusiast]

Christian it has been done gbatemp.net/threads/switch-nand-upgrade.517923/ here pascoe.pw/2018/09/switchnand.html

[@ToshiqAzam]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIqzkJiEZbisZrs

[@DaMu24]

Dude, you're asking the wrong guy for a NAND upgrade. I read through your references. It's been done, but this is WAAAAY over Vince's expertise. To list: You have to hack your Switch, plain and simple. Vince has never hacked the Switch, and I doubt he'd be interested. You have to use a separate Linux machine to decrypt the Switch NAND partition. The guy uses Windows tablets, not a high-end Linux tower. Once the NAND is removed, you're working with a dead Switch, so you'd need a lot of confidence that your performance on the next few steps are optimal, including faith in all the community tools used to modify the NAND and spot-on soldering skills. Not suited for an amateur.

[@nintendoplaystation7211]

my nintendo switch seemed dead a few months back if you put it on charge but keep the switch completely off leave it a few hours if the battery is still alive it will work it could take to anywhere from a few hours to a full day to get it back up and running its a safety built into the battery if you have the switch on it wont work it will have a charging icon but wont work this will only work if the battery has the charging icon but is not going up in % hope this helps vince

[@paullefur6213]

Got popcorn at the ready, go for it Vince !!!

[@user-wj9xq7ig2v]

I started fixing video games and consoles because I liked playing video games. Turns out I like fixing them more than playing them now.

[@Armfan99]

Awesome result, good work m8!

[@patrykw2192]

Hey Vince! What kind of camera do you use above blue mat? The macro mode is pretty nifty.

[@ericrichardson3332]

As for the battery pack it's most likely still good if you can bypass to over/under charge protection circuits to get the voltage back up to a decent level it should charge again.... on power tool lithium battery packs its a common problem where the battery sits around and get under the low voltage rating for the protection circuit and it will not charge any more because it rejects the battery as bad

[@ELY3M]

$70 is killer deal! I hope you could take time to do homebrew stuff on your spare switch that I have talked about in the email. lowest I ever went is $98 for a switch. I had to stop with ebay stuff because I have too many switches myself.