Tundra Tailgate Assist

Replacing the tailgate assist/hinge on a 2014 Toyota Tundra to stop loud and dangerous "Tailgate Drop". This job uses a $60 part and takes less than an hour, potentially saving more that $100 in labor.

[@The_Beautiful_People]

Fantastic explanation and demonstration of the tools and technics necessary to fix this problem. I appreciate you taking time to make this video as it will continue to help people far in to the future just as it’s helped me. Thank you sir!

[@wolfeadventures]

6:30 this is exactly was I was looking for. My tailgate drops fast and I wasn’t sure how it’s supposed to. Thank you.

[@woodcraft70]

Glad to be of service. Thank you.

[@user-eg1sw7kd6g]

I recently replaced the hinged in this video, but it only helped a little. The shock looks good, no leaks, good resistance when pushed on. With the marginal results, I opted to try an assist by Rough Country, $32 which includes shipping. It works 200% better than the stock assist. Only takes about 15min to install. Its worth looking at.

[@woodcraft70]

That's awesome. I will take s look at that. I have replaced my OEM version 3 times and have always been disappointed in the longevity of the design. Thanks for the information.

[@user-eg1sw7kd6g]

I order both the stock hinge (my bushing was bad) and the rough country shock at the same time. I did this because I was very skeptical that the hinge was the real issue. Turns out the hinge was a very very small part of the issue. Replacing the hinge alone does prevent the tailgate from flopping down all the way and bottoming out. It still flops down, but no long bottoms out, but comes close. It now bounces back up just before bottoming out. My results didn't come close to what this video showed. Adding the shock gives me a soft smooth transition from top to bottom.

[@woodcraft70]

@@user-eg1sw7kd6g I purchased and install your recommended Rough Country tailgate assist. It works great, but unlike the OEM tailgate assist, it doesn't give any assistance when lifting that heavy tailgate to close it. But, I think I can live with that. Thanks again for the recommendation.

[@WaltWW]

Great video, clear explanation. Mine lasted about 10 years, that’s not terrible for a hydraulic damper, that was used 5,000 plus times.

[@brucewakefield2605]

I have to say this video made it easy for me. I bought a 2007 Toyota Tundra Limited back in 2007. It is now 15 years old, and looks like new, and runs the same. I wanted to replace the tailgate assist as it had lost its effectiveness 5 years back. This made the install simple, and I can say that my truck needed the #30 hex. The Assist needed to be installed upside down from the one I removed. If someone checks the stabil assist, they will notice one end is a little larger than the other. The larger end goes down. Also the one you remove has a rubber on for protection. It doesn't show a rubber boot in the description, but it came with one. Great service.

[@theyotaduo]

Man you’re awesome! Thanks for the in depth tutorial.

[@jeremiahrushford2315]

Thanks for the easy explanation. Gonna get mine done today 👍

[@theofficialpeterkim]

This video is perfect. Thanks for doing it.

[@technotrix6504]

Thanks, my wrist gave out today from the stupid heavy tailgate. Looking online I realize the tailgate is not supposed to drop like that. I bought the 2015 used in 2020. Thanks for your video!

[@woodcraft70]

You are very welcome and thanks for watching. Always glad to share what little I know.

[@wesleycrouch2135]

My goodness thank you! I couldn’t find anything for this issue!

[@woodcraft70]

You are welcome. My goal is to submit helpful content, if I can.

[@noahchiasson7809]

Excellent video! Very well explained. Thank you!

[@russbarker7513]

Excellent explanation of how to get to the damper and replace it. Awesome. Now I have to do it. Lol!

[@mrRoverkane]

Excellent presentation

[@dubaudiproject861]

Thank you for posting the steps.

[@markhwebster]

Thanks so much for the tutorial! I broke the same little bushing after only 2 years on my 2020. A few things that weren't covered: the piston has little clips, sort of like a clevis pin locking it on. Those have to be pried and slid away with a small screw driver. Also, I wonder if the all metal version of this hinge could be used instead of the one with plastic bushing? At Toyota Parts it looked identical...but had steel where the proper one has plastic-rubber.

[@woodcraft70]

Thanks for your comment. I believe the purpose of the rubber piece is just to reduce rattle. I wish Toyota would come out with a hybrid version with a rubber coating. All it needs to fulfill the anti-rattle feature is a rubber coating similar to the one on the right hand hinge.

[@robertholmes1556]

Appreciate your video. I have 2007 Tundra and I can not find the hinge with the bushing. I can’t even find the bushing? Did they modify the part, and make it metal? Dealership couldn’t even see a bushing on their diagrams. Gave them the part number in your video and guy said that was just for a 2019. I never asked if it had a bushing? Hopefully you may know something; as I’m at a total loss. Thank you

[@woodcraft70]

My Tundra is a 2014 and that part number fits perfectly, but I understand that Toyota did get smart and do away with the rubber bushing, which was 99% of the problem. Also, if you look in the comments on this video, you should find a part number for an aftermarket cylinder kit, that fits on the outside. Correction: He didn't give a part number, but he said it was sold under the brand "Rough Country". The comment said it takes about 15 minutes to install and works better than the original.

[@robertholmes1556]

@@woodcraft70 I’m guessing that the rubber bushing is now metal? Thanks, for your help

[@ke4kag]

Where do you find that hand crank driver tool?

[@woodcraft70]

Speed Handles or Speed Wrenches are slowly being replaced by impact wrenches, but I'm old school and have several of them. I find them all the time at garage sales. You can still buy new ones at Amazon, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. New ones run about $20, but garage sale prices run from $1 to $5.

[@maxwell48]

Excellent. Thanks

[@pullingguard5435]

Thank you sir!!

[@dgm0313]

excellent thank you!

[@chrisrobinson5413]

Awesome video

[@kcin118]

The tailgate camera wire harness has a disconnect under the rear of bed

[@woodcraft70]

Thanks for commenting. I assumed there had to be one, but didn't even look since it was pretty handy to just lay it in the truck bed.

[@speltwrong9009]

I had an clip set for the camera in my glove box when I bought my truck

[@raycharles704]

When do I get this part

[@woodcraft70]

@@raycharles704 Did you mean where? You can buy them from your local Toyota dealer, or from one of the online retailers, using the part number shown in the video. If you search online, one option you will find is the aftermarket cylinder, like the one from Rough Country. Those are very easy to install and they cost about half as much as the OEM tailgate assist. BUT, they only provide assistance when opening the tailgate. I put one on mine and it works great, when I open the tailgate. It actually makes for a slower and softer opening. Sometimes too slow, when I'm in a hurry. What it does not provide is assistance when raising and closing the tailgate. The OEM assist does, and I sort of miss that feature.

[@stephenchan6602]

I love that ratchet also. Is that cylinder a strut or something like that? I'm trying to figure out if the cylinder or the hinge needs to be replaced. 2017 Tacoma

[@woodcraft70]

It is usually the hinge. The cylinder can fail, but very seldom is that the case. 99% of the time, the rubber damper, built onto the hinge is usually the culprit. And I love the ratchet as well. I bought mine about 20 years ago, for less than $20.

[@stephenchan6602]

@@woodcraft70 Many thanks. The rubber damper looks perfectly fine, so trying to figure out what else it can be.

[@woodcraft70]

@@stephenchan6602 If the rubber damper has no cracks, fits tightly in the socket on the tailgate and doesn't have any free rotation on the hinge, you probably have a failed cylinder. The cylinder is basically a shock absorber and should have a fair amount of resistance when you push or pull on the rod. If the rod can be pushed in or pulled out easily, it has failed. I'm sure there is a pounds of resistance test, but I would have to search for that.

[@aplamantia]

Thanks for sharing!

[@harveymagsambol]

Thank you sir🙌

[@roballey698]

so if the bushing is ok, then the problem is most likely the shock correct?

[@woodcraft70]

99% of the time. The rubber bushing is molded to the hinge, so it should have zero free travel. You can grasp the bushing and try to twist it clockwise and counter-clockwise. It should not turn or move up and down at all. If the rubber bushing looks good and does not rotate or have loose motion on the hinge, check the shock absorber. Take the shock absorber out by popping it off of the top and or bottom ball connectors, behind the left taillight. Pull the cylinder open and push it closed. If you feel very little resistance, the shock absorber probably is defective.

[@devjohn1974]

What’s the part # and the website you bought it

[@woodcraft70]

The Part Number is 66102-0C021. I bought mine at my local Toyota dealer for $65.00,, but I have seen them on Ebay for $44.94.

[@mattman8569]

ty sir

[@gaetanorusso6691]

Thanks for sharing!

[@davemessenger6946]

what is the ratchet you use

[@woodcraft70]

That is a Stanley 3/8" Rotator Ratchet, Model 89-962. It is great for working in tight places. I have had it for nearly 20 years and it still works like new. I have found new 1/4" versions too.