TUNE Up Creality Ender 3 S1 3D Printer (and others!). Fix Bad Layer Lines, Ringing, Z Wobble, Etc

I took one for the team, and suffered through working with a Creality S1 Printer, that had the bad layer lines problem. I worked through countless potential causes, to come up with a laundry list of items, for you to check, in order to solve the problem, and get back to Quality prints! This applies to many other 3D Printer Models as well! I'm ‪@GreggAdventure‬, take a seat next to your printer, press the play button, and let's do this...
Sandisk 32gb High Endurance MicroSDHC: amzn.to/3XFwQHG
TEST MODEL: 1drv.ms/u/s!As...
Pro Firmware: github.com/mri...
Official S1 Manual: 1drv.ms/b/s!As...
Help this Channel continue to exist: Use my Links:
Amazon: amzn.to/2miGQq9
Creality: shrsl.com/424l2
Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky
Anycubic: shrsl.com/4gssz
Biqu/BTT: shrsl.com/4l9jz
Sovol: shrsl.com/4l9k2f
Sunlu: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9
Send a TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button, or Venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio
Become a Member, by clicking "JOIN", or this link:
/ @3drundown
Learn with me!
My 3D Printing Udemy Course:
3DRUNDOWN.COM
CURARUNDOWN.COM
BAMBURUNDOWN.COM
Support me via Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown
Model by the Wonderful Mr. 3D PRINTY: www.thingivers...
Upgrade your Printer:
Capricorn Boden Tube: amzn.to/3wOAT8X
Creality Official Metal Extruder: amzn.to/3JBeguj
Nozzle Cleaning Kit: amzn.to/3JsK307
Razor Tool, for easy Stubborn Print Removal: amzn.to/3pQ7Jnr
Get The Smart Kit Here: amzn.to/328eBDr
Get a CR-TOUCH Here: amzn.to/3oWhrnK
My "Must Haves" Amazon 3D Printer List: a.co/5RxTkYl
Find me on Facebook: / greggadventure
Find me on Instagram: / greggadventure
Find me on Etsy: www.gaetsy.com
#3dprinting #ender3s1 #creality

[@zac2877]

this is one of the best 'comprehensive' videos for ender 3 s1 on all the different tips in Tuning. appreciate much

[@patrickbodine1300]

One thing that I did was to replace the bed springs with those silicone spacers. Doing that actually stabilizes the print surface.

[@3DRundown]

Some people like those, but I prefer the springs, and teaching the springs just makes sense since 99% of users have them. But, do roll with what is working for you. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@azimuth9819]

I use the blue heavy duty springs, best of both worlds

[@hollisbabybeats]

I tried that then went back to springs. Silicone spacers were not consistent for me. Plus they shrank

[@mkabakian]

Hands down the best video I've seen on the S1. This is the S1 Troubleshooting Bible!!

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. This machine put me through the ringer!! Lol

[@ferdinandoportel]

I'm glad I found this obscure channel. Thanks to you, I managed to fix the problem I had with my S1 Plus every time I activate retraction on Cura. I never thought that that little nut regulated the clamping tension of the extruder spring. thanks

[@3DRundown]

Hey now.... 😆😆 Good to hear you up and running. I lean on my S1+ ALLOT.

[@ehltechwiz1775]

When I did my initial setup, I didn’t do half these things. After 3 months of printing and getting pretty good prints but uneven layers I did all of this and the quality is like night and day. Thanks for the brief but precise explanation and getting my prints to a higher level.

[@hatcherluke]

Incredible video. After a few months of great prints I noticed my S1 was producing bulging layers and I was having confusing issues with first layer/leveling. In my case all of the axis were properly tuned but the Sprite itself had come loose from the mount (all of the screws around the tensioner were extremely lose) and was wobbling freely! Very simple fix and now it’s back to perfect printing.

[@3DRundown]

Epic! Thanks so much. Happy to get you going! #SuperThanks

[@SwapPartLLC]

Bed warp is another major issue with these printers. Mine is really bad, but I was able to get it close to flat with foil tape. I've always had a ringing problem. Being my first 3D printer, I just thought it was normal and sanding them out was just part of the process. I'll be going over everything you mentioned now.

[@3DRundown]

ALLOT of people think their bed is warped, but, in reality, it isn't. Check out my leveling and ABL video as well. Layer lines will tend to exist in some form, but, should be minor. I think you'll find improvement if you run down this video. Good luck!

[@moto61texas74]

Great Video. You go at a pace that is really easy to follow as well as providing great information. I struggled with my new printer for a few days before finding this video. My printer is now tuned up about as well as I can get it. Keep turning out the good videos!

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. My pace is 100% Deliberate. I'm blabber a mile a minute in real life. 😂😂 Welcome to the party!

[@Sysshad]

I can add to 8:00 that something that is also overlooked is that one of the two z axis mig be higher or lower then the other, this will also make one of the two sidewheel have different amount of traction. I had to losen the belt at the top, then manually turn one of the z bars, just a little bit, and then it was in level. I did this by moving the printer head to the max, manually

[@RobertoGardenier]

I have done absolutely nothing that you mentioned, yet! I will check everything on my printer thanks to your detailed and clear instructions. I absolutely am a fan of your video and your insights. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share it with us mortals. Much appreciated!

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome. Thanks for being here. Get it done!

[@ArkiSouls]

This probably one of the best vids ever. Everyone else loves to beat around the goddamn bush for no reason.

[@3DRundown]

Thank you. This one was a TON of work to shoot and edit. :)

[@KenanYusufTemel]

I loved how you said you will mention all the important parts but only briefly but still gave the most detailed check-correct method of eccentric nuts hahaha.

[@3DRundown]

I never know WTF I'm actually doing. I just wing it all 😂😂

[@AHollowVoiceSaysFool]

Really one of the best videos out there on this topic. You've not only provided an explanation for why things keep going south on my prints, but also shown the ways to fix it. A question: you made it clear that both wheels on the left rail should be equally tight to each other, and that both wheels on the right should be equally tight to each other; but should all four wheels be equally tight as a group as well? Seems like they should, but I don't want to assume.

[@3DRundown]

The key takeaway here, is that the bed should be stable, and not wobble AT ALL. Focus on that.

[@AHollowVoiceSaysFool]

@@3DRundown Sorry, I was unclear, I meant the vertical posts holding the gantry.

[@howlandneal]

Your video has been tremendously helpful, your channel is underrated! I'm embarrased to say how long I've been running my refurbished Ender 3 S1 Pro without touching any of those loose eccentric nuts. Thank you!

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome! And you're not the 1st one to do this...

[@AaronNW]

Amazing video. I've been Printing and modifying my Ender 3 Pro for about 4 months now. I just got this printer refurbished and you gave me some good extra details I was not paying attention to before.

[@dougskucas5004]

After tightening all the loose components, using Oldham couplers on the lead screws, and flexible couplers sitting on thrust washers for the Z motors. That fixed 95% if the problem. I never thought an issue could be the memory card! I was indeed using a crappy one. Problem solved! Many thanks illustrating an easily overlooked issue.

[@3DRundown]

I wish there was a way, I could get this message in front of EVERY 3D printer owner. It's critical. Happy to get you there! 🔥🔥🔥

[@shennalim111]

Thank you so much. I'm going to tackle this tomorrow. Best greetings from Australia.

[@3DRundown]

I love AU, so much so... That I literally had a conversation, 5 minutes ago, with a friend that visited there!! Greetings from NJ, USA, Mate!

[@HobkinBoi]

I actually had my print bed rocking about when i first bought it. I didnt notice it until a little later on when investigating an unrelated issue.

[@3DRundown]

Always check EVERYTHING when you get a machine. Only YOU build your printer.

[@jasonlima9264]

Thank you for the video man. I owned my s1 for almost a year and didn’t do 90 percent of the tuning till now.

[@alberthlimalucena7901]

I found a couple of these problems on my printer, just made the ajustments and I'm printing right now, thank you! I'll tell if it works!

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@justinluttmer]

Thank you. This is just what I needed and saves me the frustration of scouring KZbin for each and every thing I need to check on my S1.

[@3DRundown]

Awesome. These comments sure help it feel worth the time that went into this! Happy to help. Update me on anything specic that was happeneing, and what fixed it! Will be great for future visitors.

[@justinluttmer]

​@@3DRundown I had issues with the rollers not being equally snug when adjusting the eccentric nuts on the Z. I wasn't ware you could loosen the nut you pointed out at 7:50 (kzbin.info/www/bejne/poGWZ6Kwp8uFh5I&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=469).

[@Overlandingireland]

Has anybody ever had an issue with the fan shroud touching and tearing the first few layers? love the video by the way, nice and clear explanations.

[@3DRundown]

It's likely not seated right. Loosen the screws and tilt the entire hot end. Or, then fan itself, back a smidge.

[@lucasmaximilianokramer6161]

your videos helped me a lot since this 10 months after I started this hobby and I bought the s1 because it was the best choise at the moment in our market in Argentina, then I bought another one, now I have 2 and I needed your videos for practicly every single problem, even for the glass bed. So thank you very much. It would be nice if you can post the video for the e-steps explanation, I'm using klipper right now. Cheers!

[@Paulilmys]

You are a life saver for me today.

[@LeeHollis-y4q]

you are the goat!!!!! thank you so much iv been struggling with this printer for over a year. It has caused me great dissapointment. THANK YOU!!!!

[@3DRundown]

Love it. Very welcome. Thanks for being here. Now go make fun stuff!!

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@hitash32]

this resolved the issues i was having with inconsistent z axis. very much appreciated.

[@3DRundown]

Epic. For future visitors: What was the Issue, and the specific fix for you?

[@hitash32]

@@3DRundown the issue i was having was that my z offset would change every time i used auto home, as well as the more typical ringing issue. i actually had two causes, the z rod on one of my stepper motors was not properly secured, and the gantry that travels up and down was no longer straight (one of the wheels was barley making contact)

[@3DRundown]

Join this channel to get access to perks, such as priority message replies: kzbin.info/door/bUb8QjvZiimB-8sN6oDl9Qjoin

[@rubenverster250]

Thank you bro! I have had my 3S1Pro for over 3 months, and man did I have to tighen a lot of stuff XD

[@3DRundown]

Welcome brother!

[@rubenverster250]

​@@3DRundown Thank you for this tutorial. Just finished tuning up a printer I bought second hand this week! ^-^

[@3DRundown]

Epic. This is the way!

[@Feibie]

You legit explain the tuning very well and very clearly, thanks man, I done it wrong watching other tutorials.

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much! Doing my best... 🤜🏼🤛🏼

[@Red11John]

Great video. In video is mentioned that link to SanDisk card will be shared in description. I cant find it . Can you share link to card and adapter for card ?

[@3DRundown]

Forgot!! Thanks for the nudge. amzn.to/3XFwQHG

[@arnolouw]

Liked and Subscribed! this was a super easy video to follow and was able to do the same adjustments on my s1 plus. Did not even know about halve of these!

[@3DRundown]

🔥🔥🔥 Got u

[@chopperreed5274]

GREAT CONTENT HERE! I just received this printer for my son, for X-mas and looking forward to setting it up for him. This video will definitely help getting the initial setup perfect, but why can't I save this video on my watch later que???

[@3DRundown]

This is my #2 most watched video ever, and I made it out of neccessity. Please do follow it, and also be sure to follow my Tramming and ABL video for this printer. You'll have a much better experience, getting this all out of the way up front. Also.... I have no idea!?! You should be able to...

[@JasonLihani]

I just bought one of these so I'm definitely saving this video for later.

[@3DRundown]

Definitly come back and go through it with me. It will pay off.

[@Photosyntech]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. I really needed this video!

[@shutupandlisten9588]

You are the best. I was able to get a lot of my problems solved. Thanks for your video

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. This one took allot of work. Stay tuned for one more thing to check, tmrw!

[@milagroslunafigueroa4639]

Estoy viendo tu video, me compre esta misma impresora y soy principiante, me pasó que la cama choca hacia adelante y hace tope, también hace un riido horroroso a veces en el eje x, todavía estoy pensando que es lo que puede ser, buen video para este tipo de máquina (me ayudó mas que el manual) saludos desde Argentina

[@3DRundown]

Happy to help! Greetings from NJ, USA

[@brendoncarroll6904]

Great easy-to-follow tutorial. Thank you so much.

[@lublubh6034]

This video is a life saver!!!! Thank you for this amazing tutorial because my S1 was with some bad layers and this video helped me a lot!!

[@3DRundown]

Epic love this. Your welcome!! Check out the pinned comment on the video. 🙌🏼

[@jhyland87]

This was very helpful. Thank you! Earned a new subscriber

[@3DRundown]

Welcome friend

[@AI-Creations-LLC]

Maybe you can help me but I have absolutely no problems with small prints. But big prints seem to go wrong. Especially when its laying down the first layer. Its almost like its missing whole spots.and when it misses those spots it fucks up the rest of the print. Sometimes it causes my head to get jammed.

[@3DRundown]

Feels like a Tramming and Bed Mesh issue. I would follow my S1 Tramming/ABL video, and make sure you are using "M420 S1" in your GCODE after line G28

[@hollisbabybeats]

I think we can all agree we’d rather it be a little too tight than a little too loose.

[@3DRundown]

Neither is ideal. Z-Binding, Belt Binding, etc, due to over tightening is the cause of many problems.

[@hollisbabybeats]

@@3DRundown I’m having pillowing problems with my S1

[@mikefernandes3959]

Best instructions around

[@martinoffermann2238]

Thanks a lot👍

[@Rich_Cardboard]

Would these changes be the same on a ender 3 s1 pro? Or is there a different process?

[@3DRundown]

They are identical. Only the Screen & Heat break are different.

[@wowfunnyjoke1322]

How would I go about installing and different firmware and which would I choose? I’ve seen people needing to purchase SonicPads for stuff like that and it looked quite daunting. Also, great video! I haven’t been able to find anyone else doing tweaks to the Ender 3 S1.

[@3DRundown]

Sonic pad isn't so bad. Don't be afraid. It DOES require some new learning, but, it's not too bad. Firmware is pretty easy. You do it via memory card. I would use MRISCOC for the S1 (not the pro). Firmware goes on a card. Card in machine. Turn it on. That's it. You may also need to update the screen, the same way. There is a slot on the screens PCB.

[@garthy1982]

So many videos on the S1 and not on of you is covering the top belt the only thing that I need to adjust as its loose as hell :(

[@3DRundown]

A.) cut it, crimp it tighter, with a copper buckle: amzn.to/3Ujl6vU B.) Get a new belt & buckle set: amzn.to/3HuFEKp C.) Get one pre-made: amzn.to/3SykjGw

[@garthy1982]

@@3DRundown legend for the reply thank you very much

[@SinisterGamingTabletop]

I put glass and clips like that once. First time I ran a level test it knocked them off and sent them flying...lol

[@3DRundown]

🤣😂 Use strong ones, and only use about half the clip depth. run an ABL, and adjust them out of the way. Good to go. ✌️

[@iamjawnwick]

3:53 amen brother

[@mildmannered1086]

Thanks! Any ideas if the X-axis belt is rubbing? As in it's not running centrally on the adjusted knob side...

[@3DRundown]

Rubbing... Is the tensioner itself, or the gear, in some way crooked? I would remove it and reinstall it. I have not encountered this. Elabortate?

[@mildmannered1086]

@@3DRundown I think it must be the gear angle, having the belt roll to the edge and rub. :( Thanks for your reply Gregg

[@pardeepbhathal3978]

No matter what I do I can't seem to get rid of the layer lines. So frustuating.

[@3DRundown]

It can be really tough on the P1P. Go over everything! Especially the ZROD

[@leonardojoy]

And where is the before/after print to compare?

[@3DRundown]

In my Hand.....and On my FACE.

[@tinkermakerman]

thanks Gregg. this video is great. was the print from thingi?

[@3DRundown]

Thanks! Your welcome! My bad, I meant to link it: 1drv.ms/u/s!AsUNEpEglKSchshUt3Ge9_VRfXeV5w?e=zw51KN

[@panosfxable]

Hey i am trying to install the professional software but when inserting the memory after i start the printer it gets bricked and i have to reflash the previous latest marlin version i have to unbrick it. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

[@3DRundown]

Possibly using firmware for the wrong chip. There are F1 and F4

[@panosfxable]

@@3DRundown no I made sure was for the f4 chip that I have.

[@R0DR1G0S]

Nice video! I have heard a lot of uneaven or bad layer lines on the S1 and many people blame the Sprite extruder, in your experience is that true?

[@3DRundown]

I very much dislike the S1. Mine has been a royal pain. That said, lot's of Sprites are out in the wild, on all sorts of machines and people are having good success with them. My S1+, prints massive masks in Silk Silver, flawlessly. I don't think it's the Sprite. I think it's poor assembly and Q/C

[@kutsanan]

great video thanks

[@johnx9318]

Wish I could give you a second thumbs'-up!

[@3DRundown]

Check my pinned comment for the next best thing. 🙌🏼🙌🏼

[@johnx9318]

@@3DRundown Thanks...

[@johnx9318]

@@3DRundown Sorry - bit of a duffer - can't find it!

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: Click the "💗THANKS" button, to Tip or Venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@br0k3nilluzion]

Are you going to jump into Klipper via Sonic pad or any other means if not?

[@3DRundown]

I have 2 Sonic pad here since launch. Both still in the box.... I am going to have to dip into that eventually. Probably soon. I do run a large FB Group for the Sonic Pad.

[@br0k3nilluzion]

@@3DRundown what's the group? Anyone working on profiles for other printers outside of the creality supported ones and their new update..?

[@TheLuciano1806]

Sonic Pad is like night and day on this printer. I have one on my S1 PRO and it was totally worth it

[@LWJCarroll]

Ah ha my S1 Pro doesnt do that, per model shown. Thanks Laurie. NZ.

[@3DRundown]

Doesn't do what?

[@LWJCarroll]

@@3DRundown what he shows on the print he holds up…course layer lines…

[@3DRundown]

Your are saying yours doesn't have bad layer lines. That's good.

[@melissamoore6733]

I feel like the fan is messing my prints up. How do I fix this

[@3DRundown]

How so? Elaborate

[@melissamoore6733]

It is like it prints so long then the fan hits the print and messes it up. I have an s1 with that fan in front

[@melissamoore6733]

Also this started happening when I changed to a glass bed. I haven’t been able to complete a print

[@3DRundown]

Loosen the screws for the fan, and tilk it up a bit. OR, loosen the sprite mount screws, and check that the sprite is seated well, and not leaning down in front. snug it all back up.

[@chananel9756]

Hi I have an ender 3 s1 and I connected a fan to it and it gave off a burnt smell and now the fan doesn't work I tried to change the fan I tried the motherboard in the extruder and it still doesn't work I would be happy if you could tell me if you know what the problem could be

[@3DRundown]

Bummer. I would disconect as much of the electronics as possbile, and see if the board will turn on with the screen. Make sure the power supply is set to 110, and not 220

[@rmgrimshaw23]

My cr touch probe sometimes rubs my part while printing. Any thoughts?? Ender also sent me standard bed springs with my S1. Kinda pisses me off as this is a slight selling point. I’m off to grab silicone or vinyl “springs”

[@3DRundown]

Your S1 shoulda come with Yellow Springs, but, it's not really a big deal, TBH. I wouldn't do the Silicon. If you want, you can swap for Yellow Springs. It's a pretty easy swap, but, you can live with the other ones. Your Touch should not touch the model, as it should be higher than your Nozzle. Something is a miss. Check the mounting bracket. Make sure there isn't a slight downward bend, or something along those lines. Also, check the mounting of your Sprite, as it's possible for it to be slightly adjusted

[@rmgrimshaw23]

@@3DRundown I went to micro center and they agreed, it appeared to be a returned or refurbished unit. There were other signs of this. I have and Im currently in the final stretch of a 48 hour print but I’ve been watching it waaay more than I ever have my V2. So after this they’re going to swap it out. One problem is getting the marlin firmware back on the screen though🤦🏼‍♂️ they might reject the return since I immediately updated to mriscoc, since I’m familiar with his firmware. Any suggestions on flashing back the screen would be awesome. If they don’t take the return, I’ll tear it down and grab a sonic pad. Oh,…. And the CR touch probe is perfectly in line with the print nozzle I did some minor adjustments but it just doesn’t seem right.

[@3DRundown]

Just put the creality firmware on the root of a card (with nothing else), and it will flash back to stock. I swap all the time. I am not fan of the S1. Mine is a royal pain in the ass. However my S1+ works great. Go figure...

[@rmgrimshaw23]

@@3DRundown This will flash the screen as well? obviously ill have to pull the cover again,.... Correct? Thank you so much for your help BTW!!

[@3DRundown]

I didn't flash my screen. If you did, you may need too..

[@Suchtzocker]

is the s1 the first one ? i have just a ender 3 pro does that make it a s1 pro ? 😂

[@3DRundown]

The S1 is 3 models after the E3 PRO. E3PRO - E3V2 - E3NEO - E3S1

[@Suchtzocker]

@@3DRundown oof 😅 but for now the tut. showed me the key things to look for and the names wont differ much 👍 already printing

[@3DRundown]

The ancient E3 Pro is a very reliable machine.

[@Suchtzocker]

@@3DRundown i got it to print really nice, learned basic fusion, already created some stuff people appreciate with it ... but messing around with precision details now and a elephant foot i cant get rid of

[@jaya8352]

What print speeds are you running? I'm constantly jamming if I try to print at 60mm/s (+reductions), currently I'm finding 45mm/s and .2mm layers is the best I can do and that's for a very small print. I wish I could get as far as considering print quality, I can barely get it to complete a print. 300°C printing? Yeah right, mine can't handle 225 without major heat creep.

[@jaya8352]

.4mm nozzle BTW.

[@3DRundown]

I always use 0.2. I print PLA at 200, give or take a few degree. Occasionally a little higher. Never over 205ish. I haven't had a single clog on either of my S1. for as long as I've owned them. Same since the new hot end. I usually print 50ish. Never over 60. Why is it jamming? Perhaps extruder Tensioner too tight? Retractions too much?

[@jaya8352]

@@3DRundown Thank you for the reply. Interestingly low temps you're running, don't you get fragile layer adhesion? Interesting point on the tension, I haven't messed with it much other than when I realized the adjuster screw was there I think it was quite loose, I could pull the filament through it, and I simply tightened until I couldn't, could be problematic, I'll check that, maybe too tight. Retractions are off for this. I'm now thinking better to strip the filament to keep the motor from working/heating extra in a skipping situation, as the motor is skipping, not filament stripping. I saved a baseline profile my last good print (3 prints ago) and next derrivative print profiles failing. Thinking I only had tried 25% overlap from 15, thinking that could have been the difference. The more I think about it I can make myself believe more that too much overlap obviously would lead to over-extrusion at higher infill situations, and possibly also too much tension on drive gears contributing. I had gone quite a few months with old dialed in printer and settings, funny forgot how many dials and parts to get dialed in or if not then bad to no prints. Looking about 80% good here though.

[@jaya8352]

Good print was with tension as-is, but I'm definitely trying looser, thank you for the suggestions.

[@3DRundown]

Yes, I find when it comes to temp "more is more" isn't always true. Same with Speed. I Shipped 1300 orders last year (@greggadventure prop business), and nearly every PLA print was between 200-205. I start low, and only increase if needed. Strength is super. :)

[@olywier13]

Well it would be nice to see a result of your tips at the end… before and after

[@3DRundown]

You mean the big pink mask, that's also in the thumbnail!? 😛😛

[@olywier13]

@@3DRundown well showing completely two different prints doesn't really show improvement...

[@TheLuciano1806]

@@olywier13 actually it does in some cases...

[@olywier13]

@@TheLuciano1806 yea in some cases.. I want results not randomness!

[@MichaelDeeterIA]

Did you have any issues upgrading your firmware? I got an Ender 3 S1 in September and I tried to update the firmware but it failed. Some research shows that it's likely related to the chipset on my printer (STM32F401). Any suggestions on how to upgrade/change it as easily as possible?

[@3DRundown]

Hi. Firmware is pretty easy. But...... there is an F1 and F4 chipset. Must be sure you use the proper firmware to match the chip on your machine. Also, thanks for the reminder! I am going to link to better firmware in the description. I'll try to do it tmrw (Thursday)

[@Gtamaster2612]

You must have the folder within the .bin ,Not the bin alone on the Card wirh the F4 chip

[@3DRundown]

github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1

[@3DRundown]

Right. F4 has 2 Folders, and a file, inside 1 folder, that does the screen and mainboard. F1, is a single Bin file, that goes in the root directory. Screen can be updated seperately. Both official firmware updates, come with a txt file, to explain.

[@jamesmcnally1661]

Its pronounced Xcentric

[@3DRundown]

I don't care.

[@andrewmoore7601]

Thank you so much for this video! I went from 8/10 prints completely failing and needing to constantly watch my printer to just being able to press “start” and walking away. I’m new to 3D printing so a lot of resources online went completely over my head, but your video is very clear and concise.

[@markbutler7205]

great video, clear and easily understood and you actually showed changing them rather than just talking about it. thanks!

[@SoggyBiscuits1000]

same here, easy to understand and good video shots of what you need to do

[@LonghornTexasFan]

I'm brand new to 3D printing. I bought a refurbished ender 3 S1 Pro. I thought I received a bad unit but thanks to your video I fixed the issues it had. Thank you soooo much.

[@3DRundown]

Epic. Love this. Happy to help! You may like my full course

[@vonpoop1102]

Thank you. Clear, crisp, concise. Solid, followable style. I wasn't having issues, but you certainly directed me to some wobbly fasteners I'd never paid attention to.

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. That was the goal! Happy to help. One day it's not an issue, the next day she prints like sh*t! Good to get ahead of it.

[@vonpoop1102]

@@3DRundown For the autodidact (as I imagine many of us are), it's so hard to gradually learn actual mechanical setup and overcome that innate hesitance to touch anything. Always wondered why so many spanners were included. 😬 Certainly underlines that Creality really should be producing proper manuals for their machines. Sigh. Cheers again, anyway.

[@3DRundown]

Touch everything. Break everything. Fix everything! Thats how you get from lost, to found, with this kinda stuff. :) Very pleased to be able to help you get into things. :)

[@mrmister9969]

This is it. This is the video. Very well explained helped a lot and the prints improved massively. On the topic of the print speeds tho: isnt the speed setting almost irrelevant as long as the acceleration is low enough. Because inaccuracy are usually caused by massive accelearations. And for small parts or pints speeds in the tripple digits wont actually be achieved if you keep the acceleration reasonable. But for larger parts the printer can save some time on long straight lines without sacrificing quality. Obviously you need to have the flow to match the print speed

[@NateGreySummers]

Thanks a lot, so much clearer than Creality aftersales vids. Thanks to your video, I've noticed one of my z axis wheels was turning loose and I've been able to fix that. I've also greased a little the z endless screw with unilube. I don't know if it'll be perfect (print is still in progress) but it seems to be better than before. You have a new subscriber :)

[@scruffles87]

This is the exact video I wish I'd had getting into 3d printing and the kind of video I've been thinking about making myself for the past few weeks. But here it is! Sending this to anyone who wants to get into 3d printing that I know.

[@TerryLondon]

Thanks for super good tutorial! Clear and explanatory. Saves a lot of time for people who are trying to figure out why their printer prints crap :D I fixed all of those issues mentioned in this video.

[@marioguitarra1]

I've just followed these steps you told on the video in my ender 3 s1. It literally solved EVERY problem I was having with the surface of my prints! I'm so happy right now!!!!!

[@3DRundown]

Epic! Consider a super thanks or membership, to help me help others do the same. 🔥👏🏼

[@lkjhgfdsayxcvbnm]

About the tensioner: I saw a video suggesting to look at the "bite marks" on the filament when you pull it out. They should not look like the filament is squished or nearly cut through, nor should they be too superficial. These marks give you a nice hint whether the extruder has enough grip. Here, you also should be able to see if the extruder gear is worn out in case lots of abrasives were printed

[@3DRundown]

Yup. Don't over-do it. Over tightening is super common. I have never worn out an extruder gear. Firm but not tight

[@leonardoinhoqui]

I've been tinkering with mine for weeks and I don't think it's a problem where it generates some ripples in the vertical, looking like resonance, making 3mm cubes at 30/35mhs, it's very noticeable and a low speed for this printer. I don't know where else to turn because I've already done countless tests, including testing with very tight, medium, loose straps, etc. The printer is very firm, I disassembled it completely, cleaned all the areas that had dirt on them, thinking it would solve the problem and I can't solve the problem.

[@MeneerGaming]

Really good video thanks

[@thiagoamaral5912]

Excellent video. Thanks very much.

[@workhardplayharder4924]

Thanks for your clearly video❤

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome!!

[@diy_wizard]

thank you, I'm one of those who use 3d printing to create ideas, not to do 3d printing with the desire to tinker around with the printer. My Ender 3 S1 was printing worse and worse, i now have another one (i wanted to get a bambu with AMS either way), but now i watched you video and quickly managed to bring my ender 3 s1 back into the game, it was just some tensioning i never thouzght about before! Thank you very much for this short, straight to the point, easy to follow video. One thing I noticed: in your video it is not clear, which nut you tightened for the extruder, because your hand is in front of it every time you screw ^^ but its easy to find the information.

[@3DRundown]

Some of these shots are really tough to get. I *try+ to avoid that, cause it would drive me nuts too!

[@TronSAHeroXYZ]

The consumer shouldn't be required to make the 3d printer work, it's supposed to work out of the box. Why force the consumer to do the engineers job? If the printer doesn't do what it says, then don't sell them to the public.

[@3DRundown]

Bro. No.... These are complex tools, not Toys

[@edmundbrunning7387]

Grab it and abuse it . Your a rock star as far as I'm concerned. Thank you for all your advice and experience that you share with everyone. If your ever in NYC dinner is on me . Sincerely Edmund B . Thank you.

[@3DRundown]

I'm in NJ, born in Brooklyn. I'll take you up on that Dinner sometime. Very welcome! 🔥

[@edmundbrunning7387]

@@3DRundown The garden state. I'm a man of my word I'm in the Bronx but I used to work in Brooklyn and I'm from Manhattan born and raised so with that said you let me know what type of cuisine you like or a restaurant you prefer and you got it . Thank you again . Sincerely Edmund Brunning

[@brianfield4170]

Just wanted to drop a "thank you"! I was having issues with my new Ender 3 S1, and was starting to get frustrated. My extruder tensioner was quite loose, and extruder assembly was loose, the brass pieces on the back were lose, and I tightened up the belts of bed a little more. After doing all that and slowing the print speed just as you suggested, its a game changer. I was having significant issues getting the first layer down without being either too smushed, not smushed enough, lack of adhesion to the bed, etc. All of those issues are now gone and my prints are coming out "perfect" (in comparison to how they were before). There's always more tuning that can be done, but at least now I'm off to the races.

[@3DRundown]

You're very welcome. It does kinda never end with these things, but that's just part of the the game. You'll get used to it, and you'll get better at it, till it becomes less of a headache, and more of a routine. Stick around, and we'll suffer together. #SuperThanks

[@colekeller]

Thank you for this!

[@3DRundown]

Very welcome. My S1 was a royal pain in the ass.

[@davek4128]

Just got an Ender 3 and after a couple of failed print , I found your channel. I didn't know there was so much to adjust, especially the part about the wheels on the vertical rail. Amazing video, I really like how you take time to explain how each adjustement affect the printer. Well explained and easy to understand for a beginner. You got a new follower ! Thanks

[@3DRundown]

Welcome to the party!! Thanks for being here. Consider becoming a member to help keep me afloat. 🔥🔥

[@IAMPOPP]

Great video. Now i jnow all the different parts and where all my adjustments are. Thabk you for this video.

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@matteopascale483]

I want to thank you so much i resolved all my problems with the printer thanks to your video. I love your format and clear explanation I can see that you are a really hard worker. You are so underrated and you got a new subscriber😊 keep on going you deserve so much more!

[@3DRundown]

wow, this means allot. Thanks so much! These videos are incredibly time consuming. Messages like this make my day! #SuperThanks

[@BKnight7z]

Bro ngl you’re really the goat. Keep grinding and making vids you genuinely make a difference in the world. Appreciate the help

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. This channel is ALLOT of work. I struggle to handle it all. Promise to keep the Grind and do my best! Welcome to the party

[@BKnight7z]

@@3DRundown I know running any small channel is ALOT of work. I just wanted to make sure you knew your hard work helped someone out a lot today. Have a great 2024 man!!

[@3DRundown]

Friend, knowing that, and being told that.... is the one thing, that keeps me going, on those days where I feel I just don't have it. I appreciate you more than you know.

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@Malik-tn6cu]

Just buy a Bambu Lab printer :)

[@3DRundown]

No thanks. I prefer my Creality machines. I have 5 Bambu Machines. Learn how to use your tools. I make masks for National Television on this machine. Prints cleaner than my Bambu's

[@miked8156]

This video has helped me resolve my issues with quality. Have you done a video on speeding up print times while retaining quality?

[@3DRundown]

Thanks so much. Consider adding the HIGH-FLOW kit, and a Sonic Pad to your S1 (I have a High-Flow Kit install video). OR: Get an Ender 3 V3 KE or CR10-SE. However, there are ways to help with prints times, on the slicing side. While I am not somebody that focuses on speed, perhaps a video on that topic would be helpful.

[@jamesharris9894]

thanks to your tips my ender 3 s1 running great just stopped by show support

[@3DRundown]

This made my day... Thank you brother. Honored to have you around

[@Blazs120gl]

Hi, when adjusting the gantry wheels, hogy firm should the single inside wheel be? For me they are super tight and they get tighter as I go lower and lower on the Z axis.

[@3DRundown]

You should be able to turn them with 2 fingers, and should feel firm-ish. Sounds like the sides are a little miss aligned. Loosen their nuts a little. Move Z all the way up and down. Tighten them.

[@MrBateau]

genius

[@kevinlotero3871]

Muchas gracias me ayudaste mucho, saludos desde Argentina

[@3DRundown]

Greetings from NJ USA

[@marioguitarra1]

Thank you!

[@3DRundown]

Epic. Thank you. These help SO much! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🫶🏼🔥

[@3DRundown]

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: Click the "💗THANKS" button, to Tip or Venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio Become a KZbin Member, by clicking "JOIN" Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

[@tropenband]

Advice at 09:00 to fix unequal load to the wheels does not work. Loosing the two screws on the rear and tightening them again does not habe any effect...

[@3DRundown]

Wrong. But thanks for playing

[@tropenband]

@@3DRundown Not wrong, just checked it out. You also did not mention that on the right side (seen from the rear) only one screw is accessible...

[@MrChans_S3]

I’m wondering I have a belt at the very top of the printer that’s loose that’s drives the up and down for the extruder is it suppose to be loose?

[@3DRundown]

Which model. Sounds like a sync belt. keeps the 2 lead screws in sync. SHouldn't bee too loose....

[@MrChans_S3]

@@3DRundown it’s an ender 3 s1 pro it’s very loose.

[@tempacc9589]

Wish I found this far earlier. Best starting place for anyone trying to fix problems. One more recommendation: My Z axis were not at equal height. The bar always looked a bit diagonal. I manually turned on the side that was lower on the coupler that is attached to the screw base and it slipped over two belt positions until it was aligned with the motor on the other side. Now it is straight