Turning Garbage Into Gold: Elite 2 Controller Transformation

[@MoratayaVideo]

Killer fix up. Great closing with the montage with unzipping and opening case reveal of the final look!

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks dude, I super appreciate that awesome feedback

[@haggardfalcone]

Instructions unclear. I used IPA on my controller and now it doesn't work and smells like hipster.

[@RetroRepairYT]

Totally makes sense. I should have said PBR instead of IPA

[@lilguygamingandmore]

the grey and black wires above the red and black ones are actually more vibration motors that reside within the triggers

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks for that info, I really appreciate it

[@lilguygamingandmore]

@@RetroRepairYT np

[@dblgonzo]

I know this is just a video game controller and is not a critical component. The round dull solder on the second joystick looks like cold joints.

[@RetroRepairYT]

Good call on that, I will definitely keep a look out on future repairs to fix cold joints. I appreciate you looking out

[@YourPersonalGeek]

Good stuff Eddy, currently picked up a new joysitck module from ifixit and working on getting it put in as well. As far as im concerned the potentiometers are stilll good so I kept them on the PCB but the new module came with potentiometers too. I'm average at best at soldering so was trying to limit how much I had to desolder, it should still work with the existing potentiometers and just the new module but what do you think?

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks so much for your comment! From my experience if you're buying from ifixit then I would say to try to replace the entire module with potentiometers. The only reason why I say that is from that company those parts are very good replacements compared to what you would get on AliExpress or Amazon. I understand that you want to keep soldering to a minimum. But technically you could do more damages way because of bending the potentiometer is out. Because at that point if you do bend them out and push them back in the metal that's going through the through holes is going to consistently keep pushing the potentiometer out away from the module. I highly recommend using low melt solder. But if your skill isn't that polish please use something that is already broken like a clock radio or even in all the controller or something like that that you can practice on. Then when you get a feel for it you can jump to desoldering the module. Now I know it's going to take more time but it will definitely hone your skill and you'll be able to use that skill in your toolbox for later repairs and mods. I know it's upsetting cuz it's something that you have to feel out it's not a skill where it's informational based only. I wish I could be more of help. But I hope your repair goes well

[@Badget007]

Good fix up! Although, you could've used Hall Effect Joysticks instead of potentiometers

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks for your comment and that sounds like a new video sometime down the pipeline. Thanks for the suggestion

[@tubesami]

I was thinking of buying an Elite 2 with broken RB for only 20 euros. I asked the seller if it comes with all the thumbsticks, paddles etc. He said no so I'm not sure if it's worth buying

[@RetroRepairYT]

That's really not a bad price for controller only. But if it's really missing a lot like it doesn't even have the base sticks then I would move on. Or if you can find a really good deal on some paddles and the thumbsticks then that would be a good deal

[@jacohop]

what are the "additional mods"?

[@MrChocobit]

@@jacohop Obv the case and the backpadels

[@larrytaylor2692]

No one tried to get into it because my controller is falling apart in the top right corner just like this it’s insane because my controller spent 80% of its life inside the case.

[@RetroRepairYT]

I understand man, it really sucks I feel like Microsoft really drop the ball on quality check on everything with the elite series of controller. It's a disappointment though because we pay so much money for something that should be so premium but it's not

[@zerodark09]

@@RetroRepairYT Oddly enough the corners on mine did the same thing in that area. Replaced it with a different shell. And the white stuff is on mine as well, so I suspect it was from the factory.

[@solosamuraiz1526]

The irony is a own a Razor wolverine for Xb1 for over 4yrs & it still has ZERO DRIFT & ONly last year are the removable thumb sick coating eroding & face buttons NOt as responsive in terms of tactile click. The controller is still perfectly fine & coat $140 when i got it. Its a wired but wayyy more responsive cuz of that. I just cant game in bed, but that would be uncomfortable anyways

[@woozie_ztfo9285]

what game was that at the end?

[@RetroRepairYT]

CoD Vanguard

[@vinyminotaur2694]

Nice fix! 1:50 those white marks are just old flux

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks for the compliment and the insight. That is calming to know. I appreciate the insight

[@tomwylie9298]

Amazing vid my man, do you do repairs for people? I have a tool kit but I don’t go further than cleaning and replacing bumpers

[@RetroRepairYT]

I currently am not taking repairs from other people yet. My main workshop is down right now due to you the last hurricane. I'm trying to get that back up and running and once I do I'll be taking in repairs again. What are you needing to be done?

[@MrAwMan]

Bro question on my elite series 2 controller the Paddle 4 is unresponsive and I can t hear the click of Paddles 1 and 3 do you know what to do

[@RetroRepairYT]

Interesting, I would try swapping the paddles around to see if you can get it to click. If that works then that means you have use those paddles so much you have worn them down. And I would recommend getting a new set of paddles if that works

[@MrAwMan]

Bro I fixed it by putting a piece of paper on the button outside in the back and now I can feel the click

[@tristanclark4124]

@MrAwMan i used super glue, I put a small dab on the paddle itself. In the future, though, don't buy this garbage controller

[@MrAwMan]

@@tristanclark4124 don"t worry I won't buy the elite series 3, by the way thank you

[@solosamuraiz1526]

This is why I stick with Razor pro controllers. U cannot beat the price tactile clicks, 4 back buttons, & Zero drift after +1000k hours 4yrs & only minor face button stickiness & erosion of thumb stick coating. I dont have a new gen yet, want to want til I can afford a OLED TV or 120hz , & wolverine for xb1 is only 60 -70 bucks now

[@RetroRepairYT]

Thanks for the input, I definitely appreciate you sharing your experience and setup!

[@leightonanderson9263]

I’m on my 3rd one

[@RetroRepairYT]

Realistically Microsoft should have done a better job on sourcing parts for the Elite 2 controller. Facts are it's expensive and it fails . The quality control was drop hard imo

[@Restless2010]

And yet for 35 bucks you can get a controller with Hall Effect Sensors..... SMH

[@RetroRepairYT]

I agree, this was a big fail on Microsoft's end imo. They should have added Hall Effects for the price for this controller