Tutorial: Cleaning, lubricating and fixing an Apple 800k 3.5" floppy drive

[@ShawnGillette]

I often watch Adrian's Digital Basement to see him lube the screw and I'm rarely disappointed.

[@benstein7506]

isopropyl alcohol has to be one of the most misunderstood solvents out there hahah. It does not sterilize and it doesn't work well as an all-purpose cleaner. It is great for stubborn scuffs, permanent marker or other foreign stains that other cleaners can't remove, but there are cases where it still isn't enough. It shouldn't be used on any rubber components as it can accelerate dry-rot with them. I also discovered that it is not the best thing to use on all plastic compounds, especially on vintage electronics, but most ABS computer plastic will hold up fine.

[@Eyetrauma]

I feel like the counterpoint to your comment about these drives being over engineered and prone to failure is the fact that I have zero fond memories of a PC’s disk drive while this one instantly transports me back to grade school.

[@mariagiusto8074]

@11:22- As a painter with over 15 years of experience, neither I nor anyone else I've known of has found an effective "rust converter" that keeps rust away longer than a year or so. I admire the extra effort though!

[@ulerhond]

@14:43 - I use a small 1/4" drive deep-well socket to push those retainers back on. The socket only needs to be a tiny bit smaller than the retainer, and it works great. :)

[@ssharma1580]

Wonderful experience watching the mechanism within this floppy drive, also came across special tricks, lubricants for such jobs. I was wondering what special type the factory use, now I know! I still posses one this drive in my old PC (not in use). That drive use to fail 'detect' . This may encourage me to survey the problem there in. Thanks a lot for this detailed video explanation. 🙏.

[@retroattic4647]

ARRRGH! I just moved, unpacked my collection and two of my 6 Apple 3.5" 800k drives are acting up. One has a broken gear for the eject mechanism which I can easily fix thanks to this video! The other one will works fine except it will not initiate an eject when the eject button is pushed. I've taken it apart and swapped the gear and motor with the other unit and that works, so it't not the eject motor or the gearbox. I checked the switch, and tried the switch from another unit, it's fine. I also looked over the board for bad traces, leaky caps etc. and checked the connector for broken solder joints of which I found none. If anyone has experience with a drive that won't trigger the eject motor, please chime in, Thanks!

[@retroattic4647]

looks like it was in fact the motor, it's DEAD, binding and gets warm unject an eject. I pulled the gear from that gearbox to get one working drive from the 2. Does anyone know where to find a replacement OMRON motor?

[@tookitogo]

Why not use lithium grease on plastic? Manufacturers commonly use it for plastic parts. It’s in tons of things like CD players, tape decks, etc.

[@rager1969]

I just got a Unidisk 3.5 and the disk got jammed. This video helped me take it apart to get that disk out. When I find the Lithium and Silicone I bought when I first watched this video, I will clean it like you show. Note: prior to watching this, I was able to get the lever on the right to close the door on the disk, but it was still stuck. Per your video, I removed the top mechanism (but with the disk still in, cuz it was stuck). and then I discovered a little latch on the left that was hooking the disk. It only needs to move a little bit to release, but dang it holds that disk in place very firmly and it wasn't evident to me that it was there, let alone the culprit.

[@rager1969]

Oh man, that left side on the top of my mechanism was stuck solid. Windex and a toothbrush freed it up pretty quickly.

[@Polygonal95]

Excellent ! merci pour cette leçon de patience et de détermination avec résultat...

[@PHAESTOS64]

THANK YOU ADRIAN YOU'RE THE BEST!!!!!!Friendly always greetings and best wishes from Hellas (Greece to ya all)

[@TheGrapyl]

Just dug out a quadra 950 and the floppy drive needs a deep clean ! perfect video !

[@sungbyun3224]

Hi Adrian. I have about 8 of these 800k Apple floppy disk drives. They are all in good condition and lubricated and eject mechanism works great. The only problem I have with these drives is the the head does not read the known good disk and

[@HughbertJassGaming]

Excellent video! Following along i was able to refurb one of these drives and now it works flawlessly!

[@samemmitt7177]

Thank you very much for the comprehensive drive cleaning/repair video Adrian! I wanted to share that I used a battery blocker from ifixit which came in a toolkit to get those black rings off around 9:00 in to the video very easily. Looks like they sell them individually too if anyone would like one. I put those rings back on with steel angled tweezers since I don't have much in the way of nails. Happy repairing, everyone.

[@the_jcbone]

Just cleaning the drive of my SE/30, following along. Feeling a little like Baumgartner Restoration.

[@the_jcbone]

Oh, no. I just found that the eject lid on the right where the paperclip should push against is broken off. What to do… Solder something on?

[@СергейВладимирович-б9з]

Kersine or benzin or gazoline can be used to erase corrosion stain, if rust isn't deeply get into metal. So after applying IPA it is good to rub rusty stains with a cotton swab dipped in kerosine.

[@williamscott1094]

You've made my day. Thanks!

[@DanRamosDR]

I've never worked on Apple drives before and this video was perfect for me! Thank you!!

[@valejacobo]

Thanks a lot man, your video helped me a lot disassembling and servicing my Quadra 900 floppy. Tomorrow I'll finish re greasing it and testing it.

[@BilisNegra]

37:03 Hey, you stated exactly what I was thinking all along the video. The fancy feature was not worth it, after all. Yeah, nice to see in action, it looked sophisticated... But it wasn't necessary or helpful at all. Is pushing a little button any sort of inconvenience or effort? Not at all. But Apple wanted to set themselves apart from other manufacturers with these little things... which eventually came at a price.

[@TomRymes]

I disagree. It was always nice using the Apple drives with the auto-inject and power eject. Sure, it makes it harder to use them as classics, but but that was never part of the design spec. Besides, the lack of a button prevents users from ejecting a disk without first dismounting it (unless they have a paper clip).

[@CrystalMcNair]

@10:35 "So of course, the eject butter is gone..." --- I'd sure hope there's no butter in there! Great vid!! I love these teardowns. Going through your backlog now that I've finally caught up on all your mail call videos!

[@rusty119]

So glad I found this. I have three 800k drives that I was trying to make one working drive from and all three have a broken gear plus need a good cleaning. I ordered the gears from eBay and will be able to get them all working again thanks to this video. Thanks!

[@dschult3]

How did it go?

[@rusty119]

@@dschult3 Perfect. I fixed all three drives. Thanks!

[@dwincraig5350]

Great Video includes lots of very useful information better video about MAC/Apple 800K floppy drives!

[@andrewcooksey9390]

I have an Apple external floppy drive and would like to make a “useless box” out of it. Push the disk in, have it auto eject. After watching this I think I can just provide power to this motor and it will complete a rotation and eject the disk when a disk is inserted...?

[@PatrickMilligan-y4e]

Very helpful video. I'm attempting to do a repair on at Mac Plus internal drive. I have a question for you (or anyone else that can help). In the process of removing the ejection motor, the square piece of metal that covers the read head fell off. I hope to glue it back, but I'm unsure about what kind of cement I should use. |Any suggestions?

[@ChrisHalden007]

Just what I needed. Thanks

[@tony359]

That buzzing noise the stepper is making! I thought it was a fault of my drive (not having any actual Macintosh software to test)... lost quite a bit of time there! And I had watched this before! Well, thanks twice!

[@jgvillan01]

I just love the irony of testing a Mac diskette drive with a disk from Intel.

[@theshadowman1398]

Does that stepper motor on the back need any type of lubrication ( like drops of oil inside ? )

[@splugereport]

Used this to fix two Mac SEs! Now I'm trying to make a boot disk lol

[@nathankronew3434]

Phenomenal video, thank you for going so in-depth about every possible issue this drive could have. You helped me get my old SE/30 back up and running!

[@MaCJaX88]

Wow Adrian. Great video. I learned a ton with this one. Thank you !!

[@flashgordonsonerecordatati7591]

I will be using this to service my macintosh SE drive. Very cool video thanks.

[@HammondDirk]

These Sony drives Apple used make such a recognisable noise that has also been used in numerous movies and TV series. Good work to keep them running!

[@spidermcgavenport8767]

Sir, clear nail polish works wonders for rust prevention, this and a soft eraser helps to clean off contacts.

[@spidermcgavenport8767]

Lint free coffee filters with IPA rock under certain applications.

[@urvoodoonextdoor]

I thought the drive of this Mac SE was dead, followed your video everything is working great on this computer !!! Thanks a lot for sharing !!!

[@SomewhatLazy]

Any videos on fixing apple optical drives? I have several cd-rom drives that I can't get working. Do they need a recap?

[@ericjohnson6105]

Just had to replace that gear in my 800K Mac drive. Even bought new floppies to see if it would work. Doesn't seem to like to format any of them. However I don't really think its the drive as my Amiga also is having problems formatting the disks. Seems like 720K PC formatting on the Amiga works the best on them, i don't know if that from less sector area or what though.

[@vaelenorg]

This video is fantastic! Thanks so much for making it.

[@DrDavesDiversions]

Thanks for this tutorial! Just revived my Appled 800k floppy for my Amiga 2000 A-Max-based hackintosh. :)

[@stevvieb]

at 14:50 I use a small hex driver to put them plastic thing on, much like the plastic retention of a fan

[@marcgolombeck8771]

hello Adrian, thank you very much for this great video guide. I just managed to repair my Apple //c+ 3.5" drive and bring it back to life - even the jest mechanism after disassembling everything and cleaning, greasing the drive mechanics. Seems like the 3.5 drive is the same as in the Mac? Thx again!

[@federalexpression]

use a small socket to install plastic tabs?

[@RetroPCUser]

Good evening, I have an issue with the 1.44MB SuperDrive (internal for the Macintosh Classic M1420) not detecting anything and wouldn't format the diskettes. I already cleaned the Zero-Track Sensor, adjusted the head position motor, and adjusted the sensor position so the head will be dead center in the sensor region. I ordered capacitors for the drive and it's a Sony MP-F75W-01G drive. Anything else I should look at before I continue?

[@benmmaddog]

to help push those round "clips" find a small socket and use that

[@MaggieKeizai]

Thanks for this resource. Just what I needed to know!

[@anumeon]

No other computer sound evokes so many memories. God how i love the Mac floppy eject system. But, oh does it hurt to hear the totally diffenent harmonics of the new gear

[@anumeon]

@@adriansdigitalbasement I grew up with a classic Mac, then later with a Mac IIcI Both had the exact same sound from the floppy. It truly is distinctive.

[@guisoft]

Hi, Great Video, I clean up my mac plus floppy and now the ejection mechanism works great ... but I have the problem that don't read disk, it starts and after some second eject them (mac icon change but then go in X) and I know that they work on another mac. I think that one of the two head don't read properly, there is some way to verify or to repair them?

[@adriansdigitalbasement]

If the top head is bent from age or while working on it -- then you will have tons of issues. The pressure on the disk and the bottom head must be exact and fixing it be tough. Not really sure how to fix that I haven't personally encountered it but if they look misaligned, try bending it back.

[@EricsEdgeVideos]

This is an awesome tutorial. Thanks

[@CrazyTechReviews]

Adrian + Dioxit = happieness

[@adriansdigitalbasement]

Don't forget to take a shot every time I mention Deoxit :-)

[@CrazyTechReviews]

Adrian's Digital Basement 🤣🤣🤣

[@sungbyun3224]

And keeps wanting to format the disk. Can you do a video on show how to get the heads lined up to start reading the disks?

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

it may take some time to brake in and you can take a small drill but to open up that hole?

[@AddableStone13]

Not 20 minutes after ordering the replacement gear did the eject mechanism in the floppy drive of my Mac plus go haywire.

[@MyouKyuubi]

It's so weird that tech like this, only really breaks when it's not being used for a long-ass time. xD using them, keeps them in shape. xD

[@The-Weekend-Warrior]

You can definitely disassemble the PCB as well, it just comes out together with the motor. he PCB is held on with plastic tabs like the cover for the gears. It's just needs a little more caution doing so.

[@donald1056]

What is the name of that can of deoxidizer

[@Membrane556]

I need to do this the the drive in my IIfx.

[@anovaprint]

Manual eject now results in disk shooting across the room. Please advise.

[@anovaprint]

I'm on like my 10th drive so this video was quite helpful.

[@dave4shmups]

Are these drives as durable as the Apple Disk II drives for the Apple II?

[@zinfer1]

Is Vesperworks even on ebay anymore? Looking for some of these gears now. Yea I made the mistake of storing my Apple IIgs in my attic. I was going to try this method but the drive has a spinning sound inside and think from the sound of it my gear sheered. But I can't source these gears. I saw there was a link to the 3d print files but I don't have a 3d printer and apparently that source is untested. One source on ebay is apparently Australian but that is $17 + for 1 gear.

[@DontDeleteMusic]

I’m trying to fix up my Mac classic. The floppy looks to be in good working order, but when you insert the disk, the drive spins for 2 seconds and then stops. Any ideas?

[@sttrife]

I have cleaned my 800k disk drive. floppies go in easy now and it spins when it tries to read a disk, but i can't seem to read or write anything. Is there anything I can check to determine what the problem is?

[@jklein17]

Windex contains ammonia and you can get the same results from using straight ammonia.

[@Renville80]

For the rusty or corroded spots, what about a bit of grease over those spots after cleaning to form a barrier against further damage? Keep water and oxygen out. What about a bit of metal tubing from a hobby store to use as a tool to press the plastic washers in place?

[@mrpaulom]

Having an odd issue. The floppy drive on my macintosh 6100 doesn't seem to initialize. When I insert a floppy nothing happens. The floppy drive works fine though, connected it to another macintosh and initializes and reads discs as it should. Just on the 6100 nothing happens. Any clue what it might be? Thanks!

[@bradhansen2065]

Adrian, Great video, thanks so much. As I speak I am having the exact same problem with my eject motor on my IIgs 3.5 drive. I had to replace the gear, which crumbled, just got them yesterday and now mostly get the half eject issue. Tomorrow I will take it apart and give it the DeTox. Much appreciated Brad Hansen

[@KrishnaDraws]

Adrian Black the IIGS auto eject motor seems to have a slightly different setup. The circuit is on the side of the motor, and I haven’t been able to find the openings on the housing in which to spray the DeoxIt D5 inside. Both 3.5” floppies have the same symptom, where they get “stuck” half way while attempting to eject a floppy disk. It’s been super frustrating to be so close to getting it to work but just falling short of success.

[@KrishnaDraws]

Brad Hansen I’m having the exact issue. Replaced the gear but the drive only ejects half way. I’m unable to locate the opening on the IIGS auto eject motor as it has a slightly different setup. If you were able to get this working Brad, let me know. I’ve got two IIGS drives with the same “half eject” issue.

[@bradhansen2065]

@@KrishnaDraws Hi, yes I was able to get this working on my IIgs, rather sluggish but it does work. Just follow the wires where they go down in the motor and spray down in there. That's what I did maybe I was lucky, also sprayed most everything else with DW-40. Cheers.

[@KrishnaDraws]

@@bradhansen2065 Very cool! Congrats! Yesterday,I was able to get one of my IIGS drives to finally eject, but then after several tests, the Shapeway replacement gear stripped :( I believe it's exactly the same issue Adrian mentioned in his video. The replacement gear is too snug and doesn't freely spin as the old one did. (My order came with four replacment gears, and they all have the same issue.)

[@bradhansen2065]

Krishna Draws I bought mine from Shapeway also. But their are other places to get the gear and much cheaper too. So look around.

[@stephenkennedy6358]

what kind of silicone lubricant do you use for the plastic gears and is it something you can pick up at home depot

[@adriansdigitalbasement]

I'm using food grade liquid lubricant. It is commonly available as "personal lubricant." Is this the best thing to use? I have no idea but it has worked well so far. :-)

[@ronhutcherson9845]

I’m so glad you showed us this. The details you revealed about the mechanism are precious.

[@TheCj71984]

what about failure to initialize?

[@joejdl]

Adrian, thanks for sharing this video - it’s the best and most thorough tutorial on how to do it i’ve seen. I’ve serviced a few of these floppy drives in the past, but not often (so i keep forgetting the detail!), and this is a great guide i can refer back to. Will try those replacement gears too... cheers! Joe

[@Walczyk]

why no grease on the bottom?

[@nevilovermann797]

How does the read head mechanism lower itself? I have the same, or a very similar drive, but after I took it apart and cleaned it the read head won't lower.. :F It work perfectly, mechanically, but now it won't read or write disks any more. Do you have any suggestions ? :P

[@MrKeebs]

This was a very thorough and entertaining video. I don't even own one of those drives, but loved to watch this. Thanks for yet another great video!

[@einarofferdahl5863]

Thank you!!!

[@alexinnewwest1860]

Hello there. Maybe you can help me with a conundrum. I had a old 800k sim city disk that I tried to read using two old Mac (Mac plus and Mac performa ). And this sim city disk looks fine just like any disk. But it ruined two disk drives. The 1st was the Mac plus. It would not read the sim city disk and after that it would not read any disk after that. I took the drive apart and cleaned and lubed everything like your tutorial. Still wouldn’t work. Ok I thought maybe that drive was on its last leg. Stupidity I thought maybe I’ll be ok on the performa. Nope. That drive stoped working after that sim city disk. Same thing. Cleaned the drive and still nothing. These drives look like a petty solid design and the company city disk had no sings of physical damage. Any idea what’s going on ? Thanks

[@philgreenland1534]

Many thanks for this Adrian! I've been watching your videos for a while, finally took the plunge and bought a few Mac SE/30s in a bit of a state. Two completely dead, full of dust floppies both fully operational and as good as new again. No way I'd have got them apart and back together without this video. Keep up the good work 🙂

[@eg1885]

Apple didn't anticipate the need for the drive to last 30+ years. But the amount electro-mechanical engineering that went into this thing is very impressive.

[@Walczyk]

those brass gears are trouble in my bmw as well, the plastic gear that meshes with it disintegrates

[@rogerjones8809]

Wish someone made those gears out of metal! Fantastic job, I used to refurb the mechanisms on these drives when I worked at dealerships but never had issues with the eject motor, however that was 20-30 years ago. Nice to know how to keep them running. One thing about later Mac OS was that you could assign a particular sound for disk eject! Also the good old Talking Moose would come on and say things like, “Let me have a disk!” or “Put one of those babies in here!”, I won’t mention MacPuke although I just did, and I won’t go into a description of it, but those that remember will know what I’m talking about. Excellent video, excellent job. Only thing I’m wondering is if the PCB on the floppy ever needs any recapping.

[@ericjohnson6105]

I have a feeling that they did think about that and it was probably better to let that plastic gear fail than to have a metal gear rip into the shaft gear requiring a change of the gear and the motor/shaft assembly - the thing was spinning at a good clip when it was working. Just had to order those gear replacements myself.

[@djmips]

@@ericjohnson6105 I agree. It's probably a mechanical fuse - well at least it acts like one now.

[@oidpolar6302]

Should be testing using the "Motorola" disk but "Intel" one

[@simontay4851]

If you can eject the disk manually by pushing the mechanism from the front, why do you need the eject motor. It seems to just be a bit of a gimmic. The gear that breaks should've been made of metal. Would've only cost Sony a few cents more per drive to mass produce. To reduce strain/torque on the plastic gears, you could stretch the 2 side springs (the ones you took off) a little bit to make the mechanism easier to move.

[@simontay4851]

Drill out the hole bigger and make your own button.

[@charliesybert2683]

Has anyone thought to make a custom scsi chip to allow the drive to ignore modern full density disk limitations so normal non800k discs work

[@DisplacedGamers]

I think my favorite part was the side by side replay of ejection speed evolution. Nice work, Adrian! I also haven't really had to service any old PC 3.5" drives despite their mechanical nature. Belt-driven drives like MSX and Nintendo? Those definitely need TLC.

[@DisplacedGamers]

@@adriansdigitalbasement Yes! Cleaning all of that old gunk out and replacing the belt make up the primary needs of those drives, however sometimes that alone isn't enough. I ended up adapting a PC 3.5" drive for my MSX after the belt replacement didn't work. It is possible I just missed a detection switch (this was 10 years ago). Thanks again for your video because it got me thinking about revisiting that MSX drive.

[@Naturalbeachbum63]

This is an excellent tutorial on how to clean and fix these drives, Thank you so much. I'm using this video now to service my own drive

[@PetesProjects0]

Excellent video Adrian. I'll be following your instructions as I go through a drive I recently acquired.

[@ExStaticBass]

Yeah, those posts are a pain. Try using a small socket to apply equal pressure on it's outer edge. They set better that way too because the socket isn't as squishy as we are. As for cleaning the heads. I prefer to set the q-tip between the heads and gently scrub back and fourth. It pretty much guarantees that you don't over torque them because the only force being applied is that which it was designed to endure. I would highly recommend putting your white lithium grease in a syringe because it's way less messy. Especially if you get the syringe tips for model glue that come with a cap. Hard to find but SO worth it.

[@woodengamer]

for re-inserting the retention rings, I have used something like a small tube to give even pressure around the pin when pushing it down. In particular, I am using part of an old ball point pen that had a fairly small opening but a good way to grip it. Awesome video as always.

[@kd5byb]

That's a great suggestion! :)

[@beatadalhagen]

I often use a nut driver of appropriate size.

[@AlanGrassia]

Thanks, Adrian, for making this video. I found it informative and it is helping me clean and repair my Mac SE 800k Sony drive. Thank you!

[@TheMisterLOL1]

In fact, for my part, it's because there is a missing gear between the one you replaced and the one at the top

[@chriskxx1115]

Hi Adrian, I thought lithium grease was specifically for plastic to plastic joints, but you say you wouldn't recommend it. Can you tell me why? For metal to metal joints I thought oil based long term greases would be good? What is good for plastic gears then? Isn't silicone oil a bit thin? BTW: You're great, been looking through your KZbin library for days! Keep up the good work! :-D Thanks & best regards, Chris from Hannover in Germany :-)

[@winstonsmith478]

Why do you use IPA AND Windex instead of just Windex?

[@ToadSprockett]

Adrian, I just picked up an Apple IIe with a monitor and two disk drives for $40!, I know the power supply has to come apart and the caps replaced, what about the motherboard? Nothing's leaking it's actually pretty clean. The Keyboard needs some help, and I'll have to take the monitor apart and test everything in there and give it all a good cleaning. Where do I find kits for replacing the caps? Love what your doing. Thank You

[@biodek]

Thanks for this video Adrian, I just picked up an external 800 k that has the exact same issue, crumbled "orange" gear, plastic and metal NEVER play well together! 8( Did you have to go over the new 3-D printed gear and make sure all the pins were the same shape etc, or was your supplier (VesperWorks?) shipping perfect printed material? I did not have as much luck and the first thing that happened is the new gear's post hole was so tight it ended up lifting the post out when tried to remove it. I see now that the gear must spin freely on the post, it does not keep snug to the post and the post spins. I guess I need to make the post hole a little larger, which will be no small task without breaking the new gear 8(. Keep up the vids, we appreciate your hard work and attention to detail. Update: Turns out the probes on my Micronta Multimeter are the PEFECT diameter for the gear's hole and after carefully wiggling it in and out of the gear, the hole was now a perfect fit for the small shaft and spins with relative ease, that solved my problem after putting it back together, the eject now works fine, and as you say, its a little louder with these 3D printed gears.

[@sumplais]

I wonder: if you take an old motor (one that works but probably wont be put in service again (bad contacts?)) and one of your new gears and put some tooth paste on it and run it for a while. This is what one was suppose to do to quiet down a noisy HO train engine.

[@noedeparis]

Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong with a 400k floppy drive that reads just fine, but does not allow me to write? If I change the name on floppies it does not stick. Also, when I try to copy files onto different floppies the machine brings up an error and freezes. Sometimes the copying of the files completes, but when I reboot the machine the files are gone. The lock is not set on the floppies in case anyone thinks it might be that.

[@lemonherb1]

The four “pegs” on the disk tray are sleeve bearings that often seize up. You can get work them loose again by applying some silicone lubricant and then covering them with paper towel to protect it from some plyers and gently but firmly rotating them back and forth until it loosens up, then apply more lubricant

[@donald1056]

Kind of detailed

[@mulvenealonso1758]

Which is what we want

[@arnearne12345]

get naphtha that stuff breaks down ALL grease and it doesn't smell much at all and it really doesn't touch any plastic i know of you can usually get it in hardware stores but i live in sweden so i don't know about availability in the states but i use it for my rc car parts when they need a thorough cleaning

[@arnearne12345]

and the naphtha can very easily be washed off with any product similar to dish soap laundry detergent or just plain windex

[@dennisp.2147]

Naphtha is sold in paint stores in the US. You could also use "Coleman fuel" or white gas which is essentially the same thing. It will eat certain types of plastic though.

[@arnearne12345]

@@adriansdigitalbasement well naphtha is petroleum based so it's gonna be similar to most greasers that are meant for lower temperatures and not really unsafe pretty much odor free and it takes ages to evaporate by comparison propyl alcohol evaporates way faster as a distinct odor to it and can make you nauseous if you let too much evaporate in a room BUT propyl is better suited for cleaning of circuit boards as it really doesn't leave any residue naphtha needs to be cleaned off with some form of soap as it is effectively a extremely light oil

[@Danglebarry62]

@@adriansdigitalbasementZippo lighter fluid is basically naptha....

[@MandrakeFernflower]

Isn't wd40 naptha and vegetable oil?

[@faceboxtv4789]

I think you need to open the eject motor clean it and then put some new lubricant