Tutorial: How I Sew Woven Buttonholes and Buttons

[@teresastevens2084]

I’m loving these “summer tutorials!” My first sewing teacher (aka Mom) always used tailor tacks to mark EVERYTHING! My job was to keep her many many tiny needles threaded with brightly colored threads for that purpose and she taught me how to mark buttonhole and button placement with those tacks. Now, fast track to 2022, where we have friction pens! Love them! And, I love your technique of sticking a pin through the buttonhole center to mark the perfect placement for the button! Quick, easy, and accurate! Thanks, Whitney!

[@k3of5ks]

Me too on sticking the pin through to mark. One really great tip! 💗

[@TomKatStitchery]

The pin through the buttonhole was a trick my mentor, Joyce, shared with me!

[@jacquelinecebuliak5112]

@@TomKatStitchery love it! i do the same👍

[@ChristineL2011]

I just came across your tutorial as I was finishing a blouse, so I tried your method. All the buttons and buttonholes lined up beautifully and sewing on 6 buttons was amazingly quick. Thank you…😀

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good! I'm so glad to read this!

[@cherylp.3347]

I’ve never actually used my machine to sew on the buttons, I’ve always hand stitched them. Next time I’ll give the machine method a try. Thanks

[@imamonstr]

Me too !!!

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@lpga8007]

Starting at the bottom of the shirt: that is a tip I will always remember ! Thank you

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@lynnries7729]

Great demo...40+ years ago when I was in the class that was included with the purchase of my brand new Bernina 830, (yes I'm still using it) the instructor taught us that if your buttonhole looks a bit sparse to go over it a second time. I always do this. Makes for a beautifully filled in and sturdy buttonhole. She also taught us to scotch tape the button to hold it in place...still doing this too! Really enjoy your channel. My darling husband bought me a Bernina 335 last year, it's very similar to your B330. I love it!

[@imamonstr]

I just purchased a used Bernina 930 !! Already in love !

[@lynnries7729]

@@imamonstr Congratulations! They are fabulous machines.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Those are great tips!

[@k3of5ks]

Thank you Whitney. Great tutorial. I would have never thought putting wrong sides together to mark for button placement. I use a tiny little dot of Beacon Fabri-Tac to glue on buttons prior to sewing them on. Works beautifully. 💗

[@margaretgorski7947]

What a great idea to use the fabric tac, I always have it on hand for my paper crafting!

[@k3of5ks]

@@margaretgorski7947 only the tiniest bit is needed. I like it lots 💗

[@patriciaclements9457]

I use a glue stick to the back of the button.

[@k3of5ks]

@@patriciaclements9457 another great tip! 💗

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s such a great idea!

[@craftymystic4868]

Would add a test buttonhole for sure. I never start on the actual buttonholes until I’ve tested the machine, interfacing, thread and fabric combination on scraps prepared the sam e time I do the interfacing on collars, etc. I’ve actually had a Simplex for over 30 years, only vaguely remember what it’s like to hand mark the button placement. Really truly believe in test buttonholes, particularly if you’re hesitant about them.

[@TomKatStitchery]

This is a great point!

[@millysews5646]

Thanks for the tutorial. I have been avoiding buttonholes but you make it look easy.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I hope you try some!

[@donnaschindlbeck7457]

These are great tips Whitney! I never thought of using Fray Check🤷🏻‍♀️. When I was in Jr. High my teacher had these funny little scissors made specifically to safely cut open buttonholes. I’ve never seen a pair like them to this day.

[@jacquelinecebuliak5112]

oh! i have some of those button hole scissors, love them!

[@Roxy0405]

@@jacquelinecebuliak5112 Me, too! Very practical.

[@donnaschindlbeck7457]

@@jacquelinecebuliak5112 where ever did you find them? I need some!🙂

[@jacquelinecebuliak5112]

@@donnaschindlbeck7457 @@donnaschindlbeck7457 i found them at a local (Vancouver BC🇨🇦) notions shop ~ 8-10 yrs ago. The owners have now retired & closed shop 🙁

[@TomKatStitchery]

What a cool notion to start hunting in the thrift shops!

[@barbaramccollough1116]

Thanks for the tutorial on Buttonholes. Love the fray check suggestion. Also, wanted to let you know that Bernina has a foot especially designed to sew on buttons. It’s a game changer. The foot number is #18.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I'm going to have to take a look at that foot!

[@karenprovost2035]

Thank you Whitney! That video was great! All your tips were awesome, especially the button sewing “hack” of using the #20 foot to sew on the buttons! I was elated to see that I had already purchased foot #20 so I will be test driving that the next time I make a button up shirt. Woo hoo! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 😁

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@marlenede-abel1336]

Love the fray check trick - really appreciate your how to videos as I always learn something new.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good! I'm so glad you enjoyed it!

[@gorgo1945]

A happy coincidence today as I tuned into your channel after just completing my Melody Dolman, ready to do the buttonholes. BUT I am usually too nervous to do them so I sew the buttons on right through and have a permanent closure. Your tutorial has given me the confidence to try the buttonhole foot and the chisel for the first time and for this I shall be forever gratful to your channel! A million thanks Whitney!! xx

[@denisedorsey2889]

You can do it! Practice buttonholes on interfaced fabric first. Then go for it!

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good! This makes me so happy!

[@suelongview9925]

Thanks Whitney’s for a great demo. You can also use the hole on the little bobbin case arm to make the buttonholes a little sharper if you wish. 😄

[@TomKatStitchery]

I just learned that in this machine class I'm taking for my new Bernina 770 😂.

[@jackiegreen2658]

Great tutorial! Like the fray check & press info!

[@TomKatStitchery]

It makes a really lovely buttonhole!

[@kathleenkolb3316]

Great demo! The button hole foot makes things so much easier. How do you determine if the buttonhole is placed horizontal or vertical? Maybe I missed the discussion on that.

[@cherylp.3347]

Good question. I’m not attempting to answer for Whitney and I’m no expert but I had that question today when I was about to make them on a winter wool coat I was finishing up. I found an informative website. It was just a random website I googled and wouldn’t be able to find again. It basically said shirt plackets are generally vertical. Anything that has stress ( crosswise pulling like on a waistband ,or like my coat) do horizontal to keep the buttons from popping out. It was a good demo, I learned a thing or two. I think it’s great how we can learn perhaps new, better and different ways of doing things from each other on here. 🥰

[@k3of5ks]

Hi Kathleen. I think the pattern designer and instructions suggests button placement for vertical or horizontal position as determined by factors such as width of placket design, etc.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Typically, I do my buttonholes vertical unless it’s in a coat or jacket. If I’m using large and thick buttons, I like horizontal button holes.

[@becky3161]

@@TomKatStitchery such a useful video and very timely. I just did buttonholes and buttons on a Ballad blouse. I sewed the buttons with the stitch horizontally but now I realise it should have been vertical to look right!

[@DoloresDeeBodnar]

Enjoyed the machine sewing on the buttons, I've mastered the button holes, but sewed the buttons on by hand

[@TomKatStitchery]

I still sew buttons on by hand when I'm doing shank buttons or coat or jacket buttons. There is something very relaxing about hand sewing!

[@Bhd1812]

Thanks so much for this! I watch all the tutorials when the first publish but I came back to this today to finish my Lyric dress. You made it super simple :-)

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@karenbensdon4643]

Thank you for this tutorial. It was great to see every step in real time.

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@patricialevinson2867]

Like the fray check + iron tip

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@Escape10mom]

Yes! Love my chisel and using fray check is a must. I finally learned how to sew on my buttons by machine & never looked back! Never saw the pin trick though. I usually pin the top and bottom of the shirt overlapping & mark that way. Gonna try this technique!

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good! That trick was taught to me by my sewing mentor!

[@cindyesposito7384]

Same with me!

[@raspeight22]

Thanks for tutorial!!! I always appreciate tips and tricks!

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@kimdimond6921]

I have the exact same machine. Total work horse. Love it. I love to use button hole thread looped through the channels at the toe of the foot. Then it incorporates that with the standard buttonhole. It makes for a sturdier button hole and effortless.

[@TomKatStitchery]

What a great idea!

[@Grace-lw4hd]

Thank you so much ! This was wonderful to see in real time 💕🌈✨I just love your channel ! Thank you again !

[@TomKatStitchery]

What a lovely comment! Thank you!

[@4snkhouse]

I love that you’re doing all these summer tutorials. I have the melody dolman pattern but I’ve never done a pattern with buttons ( or zippers) can’t wait to try this. Thank you thank you

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@nancyhurt7145]

Learned a new trick watching you line up the buttonholes! Thank you. Never have seen anyone do that!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad it was helpful!

[@alig8530]

About Frixion pens…. I find they sometimes leave a mark and occasionally inconveniently disappear (under heat as they do 😉). I have started using water soluble markers. Those sold for children (crayola). So far so good… the marking persists through the sewing and disappears at first wash.

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s a great idea!

[@alig8530]

@@TomKatStitchery and a cheaper one 😊

[@sharonnewport7257]

Whitney that was brilliant. I have a Bernini and I learned so much from you, thank you so much. Using the chisel was great. I usually put a pin across the bar tack and slide my seam ripper very carefully to open the buttonhole. Love these tutorials ❤️

[@imamonstr]

I actually stick my seam ripper in the middle and then have it come up at the end of the whole and then pull. So I never go over. Then repeat on the other side ! Not that I need more gadgets but I am really tempted by the button chisel !!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

[@JG-fl2ph]

Poking the pin thru the hole to mark the button is a great tip. I’ll use that. Fraycheck - so u just press w the iron? Apply 1st side, press, apply 2nd side, press? Didn’t realize that would dry it faster. Great tip. Thx

[@TomKatStitchery]

Yep! It’s pretty quick and it keep it from getting stiff. This was a bridal workroom trick!

[@ExpressionistMakes]

Thank you for this awesome tutorial! You make it look so easy.

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@brenholmes4894]

Thank you for these tutorials. I was taught/told to sew buttonholes horizontally on women's shirts and blouses, to reduce the risk of buttons popping open under pressure, like at the bust apex area. I have never actually sewn them horizontally and I wondered if you ever do? I prefer the look of the vertical buttonholes and I have never had a problem, even being busty, like you.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I do know of people that do horizontal button holes for that reason. I have found that if my shirt fits properly (with an FBA) I don’t have an issue with gaping even with the vertical holes.

[@karenmiddleton1681]

Thank you for this demo. I feel less fearful now of doing buttonholes. Good tips I never knew.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@sharonrimsza7960]

Fabulous tutorial. It is always scary doing button holes. Whitney is using Pilot brand ‘Frixion Colors’ markers instead of Frixion pens. The markers are fabulous. So very versatile AND you can see the marks and you barely have to touch the fabric. I bought 2 sets from Amazon. Love them. Thank you again Whitney! Hey, I just looked and Whitney has these jewels in her Tomkat Stitchery store👍 That was easy!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I really prefer the markers to the pens as well!

[@Judy-rk1ge]

Thank you!

[@TomKatStitchery]

❤️❤️❤️

[@lynnshepard7485]

Love how I pick up tips from you with each tutorial even though I’ve been sewing for 55 years, e.g. hitting the fray checked button holes with the iron to soften. Thanks for that! Just a curiosity question (because I couldn’t tell with the white on white): were you marking the center of the button holes? It appeared that some marks were going at the top, others at the bottom. You’re so speedy, my eyes weren’t following! 😂

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m sorry! I was marking at the top of the buttonhole because my machine starts at the top.

[@lynnshepard7485]

@@TomKatStitchery Oh, apologies. I wasn’t very clear. When you were marking for the button placement, were you marking in the center of the buttonhole? Or do you mark at the top? Just wondering which gives a more accurate placement. I don’t normally have a problem with marking centers, but as my eyes ages with retinopathy, I’m questioning myself. Thanks, Whitney!

[@Aurora-uh9nk]

She pokes pins in the center of each buttonhole to mark the position of each button to be sewn , then uses her special pen to mark the position on the garment.

[@TomKatStitchery]

@@lynnshepard7485 oh! I think that was my misunderstanding. I put the pin in the center of the button hole. It gives just a bit of wiggle room for the buttons!

[@lpga8007]

Hitting the Fray Check with the iron: how long do you wait for it to dry before putting it under the iron to soften it ? Thank you

[@TomKatStitchery]

I do it directly after applying it.

[@jacquelinecebuliak5112]

@@TomKatStitchery another grrreat idea,Thnx! (i also use frey check on button holes but had no idea about the ironing-it part! yay, more learned today!!)

[@kandacek63]

Generally you don’t use a foot when sewing on buttons, just set the shank down on the button. I don’t know about the Bernina, but my 30 year old Viking and my 2 year old Pfaff show what foot (or not) to use in the advisor window (if you have an advisor screen).

[@charlottealexander2329]

I have a 50 year old Bernina. It has a button foot that holds the button in place. I’d be worried about getting stabbed with the needle without it. 😀

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s a great tip if you don’t have an appropriate foot!

[@kaygee4691]

Whitney! Thanks so much for doing these tutorials! I have a different model Bernina, but appreciated learning what that red arrow is for on the buttonhole foot. My machine sizes the buttonholes via the computer screen, so I didn't know what that red thingy was used for. Also, the way you mark your button placemaent is a revelation!!! I'll be using that method on my projects!!! Thanks again!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I'm so glad you enjoyed it!

[@lynnleipold2617]

Your machine does indeed make beautiful buttonholes. I luckily have a Bernina too.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I have been so impressed with the buttonholes my new machine does!

[@imamonstr]

I thought "I know how to sew a button... But heck I like Whitney so I'll watch." Definitely learned a bunch ! I never thought to actually sew the button on with my machine too ! #mindblown

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@victoriahannah1633]

I’m getting better with doing buttons but still probably do a lot of over thinking. I love doing the holes with my brother machine. You just put button in the button hole presser foot & it makes correct size hole. Love sewing buttons on . I still use my seam ripper to make holes but I put a pin across so It won’t rip. So far no problems.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I think the pin at the top of the buttonhole is a great idea to keep from ripping through!

[@dianemorrall2687]

I love your Bernina button holes! I have a Janome and it starts from the bottom of the buttonhole. As a result, the bulk of the foot is behind the needle and if it comes up against, say a seam at the top edge, it stops going backwards and I get a shorter buttonhole. Very frustrating. Thank-you for these tutorials...very helpful.

[@TomKatStitchery]

I can sympathize as my previous machine was a Janome and I had the same issue!

[@barbaracastle1690]

Thanks for this demo. I haven’t sewn a lot of buttons recently, but have some plans to. Thanks for showing how you use your simflex. I also use a Bernina. You might like Bernina’s button foot. It does cost a bit, but it is nice to have. It has a little prong in the center. The thread goes over it and gives the button a little thread shank that can make buttoning easier (kind of like using a pin or toothpick when hand sewing). If not needed, the prong can be removed. I love this foot!

[@lynnleipold2617]

Yes I definitely love the Bernina button sew on foot. So worth it.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Ooh! I'll have a look at that! Thank you!

[@Nobrand289]

So glad I watched this! You have some neat tricks, Whitney!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

[@patriciaclements9457]

I install my buttons and buttonholes the same way. Have been doing that for decades (I'm a couple of decades older than you (I've been sewing since 1958, 'there abouts' so have had a bit of practice.)

[@TomKatStitchery]

❤️❤️❤️

[@J-UK62]

Thanks for sharing your tips Whitney. I was all ready to order a button foot but might try and make do with one of my existing presser feet. X

[@TomKatStitchery]

This wide one worked fine for me!

[@nedawilmhoff3599]

I have used a glue stick to hold my buttons in place. Just let it dry a little before sewing.

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s a great idea!

[@patgottshalk8808]

Great demo filled with lots of tips. How do you decide the direction of the buttonholes? Vertical or horizontal?

[@TomKatStitchery]

I usually do vertical for clothing and horizontal for coats. It’s more of a button size and width issue for me. I find it easier to button the bulkier coat buttons with a horizontal buttonhole. However, I do know of people that do horizontal button holes on shirts because they say it helps to decrease any gaping.

[@donnabronner4837]

Thanks! So helpful.

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@reneelang5714]

Hello Whitney, gee, it’s been years since I’ve done buttonholes, I appreciate the refresher! How do you like the Mega Mat? I have a couple of large self healing mats on my table, but I know the Mega Mats leave “grooves” after cutting, do you find the “roughness” of a used mat a problem?

[@TomKatStitchery]

I have had mine for almost 10 years now and use it every time I cut out (and I use a rotary cutter). I just recently rotated it so I’m primarily using the opposite corner, but I’ve not had any issues. These were the same mats we used in the workroom!

[@jackiegenandt6661]

Awesome tutorial!!! Thank you so much!!!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

[@livinganeclecticlife]

Fantastic demo!

[@TomKatStitchery]

Oh good!

[@raeirvine7216]

Thank you. Great tutorial

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!

[@isewnow]

great info!

[@TomKatStitchery]

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

[@gailmontgomery879]

Those are nice buttonholes! My machine starts at the bottom and goes up and back down. Sometimes it goofs and doesn't quite finish where it started - urgh - unpicking is not fun! Any hints for buttonholes on a collar stand where there's some bulk at the edge?

[@TomKatStitchery]

My old machine did that with buttonholes as well. When you have a lot of bulk in an area (like a collar/collar stand) I use a rubber mallet and just pound the daylights out of that area. It will flatten the area and make it so much easier to do buttonholes!

[@ruthirwin8222]

Love ur buttonhole mechanism mine is near useless esp if fabric id different thicknesses

[@TomKatStitchery]

That was my experience with my old machine!

[@susiegoettel6627]

Thanks again for your wonderful tutorial! Do you use a regular zigzag stitch or a triple zigzag to sew on the buttons?

[@alexandraemrick2799]

You use a regular zigzag stitch, NOT the triple zigzag stitch to sew on buttons. Ask me how I know! 🤣

[@TomKatStitchery]

Just the regular zig zag.

[@nicolajackson3760]

I struggle with buttonholes where the fabric isn’t beautifully flat (where there are seam allowances for the waist or collar etc) the machine can’t feed it through properly and it gets the buttonhole length wrong and will often just seize up, I then have to very carefully unpick it and try again trying to pull it through if it’s getting stuck but it’s not very good. I have a Bernina as well, any ideas what I can do to get perfect buttonholes in tricky spots? I haven’t used the machine to sew buttons on before either so I’ll give it a try, I’m in the middle of doing the buttonholes in a shirt dress now so it’ll save me ages sewing buttons on by hand. Thanks

[@k3of5ks]

Hi Nicola. I understand exactly what you’re saying and I used to tremble in fear doing buttonholes. I got rid of my very expensive Bernina b475 for this reason. You don’t mention what kind if machine you have. My Juki has a built in height compensation plate that allows for going up against uneven surfaces or seams. There are also aftermarket devices for this same purpose. The best suggestion I can give is test, test, test. Use the same fabric, layers and interfacing as your finished garment to test. You can do this!!!!💗💗💗💗

[@TomKatStitchery]

If you’re having issues with different layers not feeding well, my suggestion is to pound the living daylights out of the area with a rubber mallet (purchased at home improvement stores). It will flatten the area beautifully and allow the buttonhole mechanism to work properly!

[@nicolajackson3760]

@@TomKatStitchery thanks so much for answering, I’d never have thought of that, I’ll give it a go next time.

[@sandy_sews]

Your summer series of tutorials is great idea. By the end there will be a great reference library for us all. Your machine looks like it less temperamental than mine doing buttonholes. However, I have my Mum’s previous Bernina on loan at the moment so will have to give it a go. Just curious though, how do you know where and when to use a vertical buttonhole as opposed to a horizontal one?

[@TomKatStitchery]

I use vertical button holes for most of my buttons. However, I will use horizontal ones for coats or jackets where the button will be larger and thicker. I find horizontal buttonholes easier with larger and thicker buttons. It's really up to you, though!

[@ceceliaharris5660]

I have used FrayCheck but didn’t iron, so that will now be in my toolbox. I always wonder about sewing buttons on by machine and how there is any kind of shank like you create when sewing them on by hand. Do they lay flat? Reluctant in Colorado

[@TomKatStitchery]

These do lay flat and there isn't a shank (although there is some give in the button). If I'm needing a shank for thicker fabric I do them by hand.

[@peggydid]

This is a lovely shirt, and I'm sure Ava will love to wear it! I love the fabric, too. Is it still available anywhere? Thanks! Peggy

[@TomKatStitchery]

Thank you! It is still available at Minerva: www.minerva.com/mp/1187830/linen-cotton-blend-fabric-multicoloured

[@helenwood3199]

Will daughter ever button the top button at her throat? Can it be omitted?

[@TomKatStitchery]

You can definitely omit it if you like. She actually frequently buttons all the way to the top so I use it for her.

[@michellelemesurier3106]

This was awesome... Thank you :) I have only attempted single button holes thus far, so this has taken some fear out of doing an actually shirt with multi buttons. I just have one question with regards to sewing the buttons on... Do you need to do anything at the end of sewing the zig zag stitching for each button to secure the stitch? i.e. a backstitch?

[@TomKatStitchery]

My machine does a locking stitch at the end, but you could also do a couple of backwards zig zags to secure it.

[@libbymcculla2650]

Thank u-I have never sewed buttons on like this but will be trying this.Can I ask, when u iron the fray check do u just iron straight on top of wet fray check or do u put a cloth under iron??

[@TomKatStitchery]

I iron straight on top, but I also have a Teflon foot on my iron (that’s easy to clean and doesn’t scorch). If in doubt, use a press cloth!

[@teresastevens2084]

I forgot to ask…do you use a different thread to make your buttonholes?

[@TomKatStitchery]

I don’t normally. If I’m doing them on a coat or jacket, I might use buttonhole or topstitching thread.

[@marydiamond3322]

Is there ever a time when you go around twice on a buttonhole?

[@TomKatStitchery]

I usually just go around 1 time. However, my machine does allow me to adjust the density of my stitches. If you are using fabric that really loves to fray and are worried your buttonhole stitches aren't close enough, you can definitely go around twice!

[@margaretgorski7947]

Thanks Whitney. Do you fray check the buttons as well?

[@TomKatStitchery]

No, just the buttonholes.

[@christimarsh783]

Do you have a how to for simple machines that do not program the buttonhole size? I have to manually start and stop for the top and bottom of the buttonhole which makes it hard to mark them the same size.

[@TomKatStitchery]

Unfortunately, I don’t have a video on that.

[@kathygann7632]

I take off my foot, and just use the arm that you attach the foot to, to hold the button .

[@TomKatStitchery]

That’s a good idea!

[@anessaharris9947]

🇨🇦😃

[@TomKatStitchery]

❤️❤️❤️

[@kathygann7632]

The reason women’s buttonholes are traditionally are opposite men’s is because men’s shirts are made so it was easy for men to button them, but women who had clothes with buttonholes had maids who dressed them so seamstresses made it easier for the maid to button. My advice: figure out which way YOU prefer them. No one else will ever notice or care, unless they sew.

[@TomKatStitchery]

You are so right!

[@andreawalker2535]

Thank you!

[@TomKatStitchery]

My pleasure!