Two Color Print Using Z-Offset Plugin in Cura

[@jgarmer]

Thanks! Pause and filament change sometimes fail because the printer looses position from the man handling of removing of the filament. This will work better.

[@kzukez]

so true. I ran into so many print fails cause of this

[@jgarmer]

I even tried sending locking the steppers with sending the gcode and it took it but the z-axis moved and print was toast

[@MrJackfriday]

@@kzukez exactly!

[@bortasha]

You made my day! I was disappointed the pause didn’t work on my ender 3, but not I can do multi color prints! I have already successfully done a couple smaller prints. Thanks so much!

[@phil-phildc483]

You are a life saver!!! I was going to loose my mind!!!! I was meticulous in swapping the filament....yet the second colour dug into the print ...... grrrr..... I then stumbled upon your video.....and voila!!! THANK YOU 1,000,000x!!!!!

[@Viking8888]

You are on fire with these short tutorials. I love em! Now I just have to wait who knows how long for creality to either send me a new CR6-SE or the parts to fix mine, before I can try this! Update, March 11th: After almost 2 weeks of back and forth with creality, it will take at least 15 days to get the repair kit and new power supply....I hope!

[@kzukez]

Are there any benefits on doing multi color prints this way?? I've been doing Pause at height plug in for my prints.

[@BadVoidShip]

Pause at height doesn't work for some of the newer touchscreen printers like Ender 6. M0, M25 and M600 all don't work.

[@santiagoblandon3022]

Or you could uncheck the "remove empty first layer" setting on Mesh fixes and it will print it in the air where you place it :D

[@gerleimarci]

Exactly. @CHEP should pin it

[@ricksoutdooradventures5250]

CHEP....I FINALLY found your video, on the Z-Offset Plugin. Your instruction(s) and help via your video, is JUST what I needed !!! It's the perfect option, for nice "clean" backgrounds when printing at 20-25% infill. THANK YOU for the HUGE help !!!!

[@frogmandave1]

Another short, very helpful video Chuck. You da man!

[@francisduvivier]

You can make cura auto-align the models by exporting them on the correct place from tinkercad and after importing them in cura select both and right click -> "Merge Models". Also, you should mention that cura already has suport for multiple materials if you change your printer settings to act as if you printer as multiple extruders. Then you can put some custom extruder switching code as well to make it pause or something.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Slick. Those who have a BLTouch can just reslice w/o any extra features and it'll home off the previous part. The previous part has to be under the Z probe location though. The prime line might not play nice, but 🤷🏼‍♂️. Just snatch it by hand.

[@Numenor7]

Love it. I've had this idea for a while. Glad there's a simple plugin that does it for you instead of messing with the G code manually.

[@DavidAsch]

I have an Artillery Genius that doesn't understand Change Filament commands and is flakey with pause, so this is a great workaround. One thing to consider is the purge line on the second print. It's fine for low-height models but you risk the gantry wiping it out for taller models, so it would be a good idea to edit the start Gcode to either omit the purge line altogether, or better still, move it to the back.

[@marsgizmo]

great tip, well explained 👌

[@MrFaiqueShakil]

you guys are legends.

[@Eisforever473_]

Wow didn’t expect to see you here

[@avejst]

It is so much more easily in Prusaslicer Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us. 👍😁

[@jgarmer]

Thanks! This will work better then pause and filament change as those I have found may knock the printer out of position.

[@DJparsons89]

Just do a Filament change in Cura when you hit the level you desire. No need for 2 stl files.

[@Schnabulation]

Srly! With Jyers‘ Ender 3 V2 firmware the M600 command works perfectly well - even with pop ups and all.

[@bac26c]

This whole video is unnecessary. Cura and PrusaSlic3r have a simple way of just adding an m600 wherever you want and the code automatically triggers a filament change

[@FilamentFriday]

3D Bengineer - I’ve covered those in previous videos. This shows how to add Z Offset.

[@rockstopsthetraffic]

@@FilamentFriday indeed, useful information to have even if the function to do this exact example is easier using other methods. Nota bene.

[@rockstopsthetraffic]

@@Schnabulation such a shame they don't have it working in stock. But this is the double-edged sword of open source and cheap ;)

[@sdeske]

Epic video. I didn't know that you designed the world renowned chep cube!

[@moulinherve8374]

Hello CHEP. Thank you for this very practical tip. On a machine like my Ender S1so with a CR Touch, there is no need under Cura to shift the overlay. Simply leave the part in place, the G28 takes into account the thickness of the part and prints on it. Only the purge strips are done in vacuum. Thanks again.

[@eswillke]

Your comment saved me. I have a s1 and I was wondering how it would react with the CR touch. I took out the x offfset and the second color printed perfectly. Thank you.

[@carlosgoncalves78]

Thank you very much for your comment! I needed to print a second color over the first one with a other gcode file in my Ender 3 S1 Pro and it works perfectly how you said! God bless you!

[@Satchboy71]

I just tried this out and it worked perfectly. Thanks!

[@emreaytac25]

Another perfect CHEP tutorial! Do what you said in video, and the result is perfect! Thanks for all of your informative videos. Also I want to inform that I didn't have any issues about stick to the first print.

[@grahamdwells]

I have been struggling with the most technically difficult print I have ever done. Getting an ender 3 to do fine detail on a custom watch dial. This video provided me with the info I needed to solve the remaining issues. Thanks Man! My custom watch dial - The base is pink with very fine detail in dark blue on top. The issues I was getting were that the dial was weak and broke apart. I was using a concentric top and bottom pattern so that I would get a nice sunburst effect. however, the result was that there was little strength and the dial would come apart in rings. This z-offset has allowed me to do the dial in 3 phases each with different settings. Phase 1 2 X 0.1mm layers no walls lines pattern. This gives a good strong base. Phase 2 2 X 0.1mm layers, all walls for the sunburst effect. Phase 3 2 X0.1mm layers with the detail but with a colour change in between after phase 2. All done on the super fine detail FF ender 3 cura 5.4 profile. Which are well worth every penny. :) I could have done the color change with a pause but flushing the filament is so delicate. With a 0.2mm nozzle, I found the extrude movement on the printer would not work properly. Thus I had to do it by hand which meant the z-axis would drop slightly meaning I had to start again. This approach means I can print a small test cube elsewhere on the print bed to flush out all the old colour. So thanks a million for this video. As ever, it is clear, helpful, with no BS and just straight to the point.

[@AMDoes]

I believe you can achieve the same result by unticking the "remove empty first layers" setting in Cura. This will allow you to slice a model exactly as it is loaded into cura, whether it is up in the air or not. Maybe handy in certain cases in conjuction with the z offset plugin

[@TheHL2Man]

That's what I have been doing for a while now

[@dragonstyneenterprises5344]

Very nice Chuck. Thank you for the introduction of the excellent plugin.

[@jerryfette5543]

Love your videos I stumbled across another way to do this without z offset. Position the first layer so the homing sensor will touch it then start homing after the first layer. Print the letters flat on the bed in cura and the nozzle will be exactly the right height above the printer bed to print the letters. Don't forget to rehome after your finished.

[@CoroaEntertainment]

3:25 I can see the corners lifting on the black base layer. A skirt (or raft) would of helped. 3:50 Imo, rounded corners would have looked nicer than those square ones. The badge would have matched up better with the Ender's rounded cover. Cool though.

[@clintstlaurent4263]

At the end of the first job, you need to edit the gCode so it doesn't turn off the heat bed. Otherwise the bed will cool, first part will pop free. Then "later when I come back" your job is ruined. I'd also edit the gCode of the second job to Z +15mm at the very start. That way it is above the existing part by a lot. When it moves into position it will fly over and down, landing on top of it instead of potentially colliding with the side; depending on where your seam XY is. IE: If the seam starts in the back right corner the head may not have gotten to the full Z height in time normally.

[@mick_hyde]

Good advice. Problem is, I hate changing the filament.

[@sysghost]

Can also be used when printing stuff on plywood/mdf.

[@andrewsad1]

Isn't there a setting in Cura to enable or disable empty lower layers? I once made an AC/DC keychain with black background and red text by doing that. This could be really useful if you need support on the top part without it trying to print support inside the first few layers

[@CatofManyFaces]

Yup, I checked it's under Mesh Fixes. Good memory!

[@nosr1437]

Hi, excellent tutorial. If you can help me with a question. I have a CR-6 Max, and before each print, it automatically homing, touching its nozzle to the bed. If the print is in the center of the bed, the homing will be affected by the height of the initial layer, and also, with the nozzle already heated, it will damage the already printed layer. Is there any way around this? PS: I want to make large prints, which will necessarily be in the center of the bed.

[@LostInTech3D]

I've had so much trouble with pausing and swapping on the ender 3 v2, and the carriage slipping when removing filament. This ought to be a decent solution! The only caveat is don't let the glass cool down or the part will pop off!!

[@TheLordNoodles]

If you use Octoprint, I had the same issue. I fixed it by doing auto home on the printer, and then resuming print on octoprint. on my Ender 5 Pro it is no issue but on my ender 3 pro where the extruder is on the z axis, i see the same thing. sucks to lose a long print that way, but i figured it out with auto home.

[@mizakoreia]

I was scratching my head the other day trying to do this. Thanks!

[@rodneysmith1750]

Another winner! Thanks for all you do for 3D printing!

[@geauxracerx]

Great fix for the creality printers that don’t recognize pause @ command like Ender 5 pro! Thank you

[@brownell10]

Beautiful. I disliked pausing to change filaments at layer height, as my last Ender 3 could never "resume" without scrapping a print. I was scared to even try on my v2 until now, thanks!

[@toms.3977]

Thanks for another great video, Chuck. I always learn something here.

[@MRPtech]

WOW!!! Thank you for this quick tutorial. Im gonna print so many things now. I might try to do 3 colours mix this way.

[@thomasbaetens]

Good tip, only something to mention is that you need to disable auto leveling, because a lot of printers will level (bltouch and etc) on the print then

[@FilamentFriday]

It’s been mentioned many times in comments for those that have installed autolevel.

[@thomasbaetens]

@@FilamentFriday aah didn't read all the comments. Keep up the good work!

[@jeremyposey3608]

That's a great use of that plugin. Great tip Chuck.!!

[@MCsCreations]

Really, really interesting! 😃 Thanks a lot, Chuck!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@aconman26]

I Love all your vids !!!! I had to figure out that, for those of us with the BL Touch the probe re-homes before every print. And it probes over the base and the nozzle is 3 mm over the base. I just took off the 3 mm offset in Cura and then let the BL touch go to work. Resulting in a great print thanks to your tutorial.

[@naldrich50]

Acon Man can you explain how you took off the 3 mm offset in Cura and still get the BL touch to not interfer with the second color?

[@Rancid_Ninja]

Mind blown, thanks for the great idea

[@Spartacusse]

Hey Chep, nice video, you can do this without a plugin and as a bonus it will show the item raised over the bed in the preview. Just print one line anywhere on the bed (the purge line doesn't count). The easiest way I found is to add a support blocker, make it a normal model and resize it to be only 1 line (it could be just a dot, but for retracting and priming purposes, a little line works best).

[@jgarmer]

Have looked at arc welder plugin for cura yet ?Promises improve gcode making curves smoother and reducing the size of the gcode file .

[@FilamentFriday]

Tried it but first impression, I don’t see much of a difference.

[@jgarmer]

@@FilamentFriday same i plugged in a design and saw minimal change

[@clintstlaurent4263]

@plasticjo I use Arc Welder and I see a HUGE difference when it comes to round things. For example, coffee cups and round planters/vases etc.. Without it on my CR10s-5 the head will stutter as it travels around the circle. I can reduce the resolution (in cura "Special Modes|Resolution) but that has a tendency to straighten the arcs, not improve them, giving the cup a faceted look like a cut jewel. With Arc Welder the circles are done as actual circles. No stuttering around the perimeter which means no visible pox marks on the outside. CR10s-5 running Marlin 2.whatever - FYI

[@BusyRetiredGorden]

I've learned a ton from you Sir and for that I thank You. Regarding multiple color printing on Ender 3 I must be missing something because after I set the new color filament, I have a nozzle crash. Is ther a way to lock the gantry so that I can avoid that? Thanks Again.

[@FilamentFriday]

Your end code is probably releasing the Z motor. Comment that out on the first print.

[@BusyRetiredGorden]

@@FilamentFriday I figured out that I was bumping the gantry. Used the disarm timer set at 1200 so that I had plenty of time to get out of the way. It worked. Thanks Sir.

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

Did you purge the black before starting the red?

[@DaveO-te1iv]

This is a great option for those who'd rather not "stand by" their printers waiting for an M600. If you're using a bed the prints remain adhered to after cooldown you could even print the bottom part one day, then come back the next day to print the 2nd color.

[@stevebailey1682]

Hi CHEP. You did a video some time ago about how to print a 2-color print by having the slicer pause the print at a specific Z layer height, swap the filament, then resume. Coming that method with the method you show in this video, which would you say is easier to do?

[@FilamentFriday]

Depends on your machine as some won’t recognize the Pause at Height commands but I find this two print method very easy to do.

[@ЛевСтоляревский]

@@FilamentFriday yes, for example Longer LK4 Pro\Alfawise U30 Pro with this problem - the reason is the color touch screen

[@braddixon3338]

Geez, can't get any simpler than that! I've been looking at g-code solutions and such for my Ender 3 S1, and ran across your video. I've installed the z-offset and will have to try this out sometime. thanks for a great solution!

[@Guapogiboy]

Cool keep exploring these plugins!

[@justinchamberlin4195]

This seems like a slightly different version of the filament change process I use on my Sidewinder, the firmware for which does not have the M600 command enabled. However, one thing I see that your method lacks is a way to ensure the lower layer stays stuck to the bed - the filament change procedure I use on the Sidewinder requires a little cutting, copying, and pasting in the gcode to slice one file, separate them into top/bottom layers, remove the command that turns off the bed heater on the bottom file, and remove the prime strip for the top file. I've made a couple different things this way, the neatest of which was a scannable QR code for the guest WiFi in my house, and it provides a good balance of control over the filament change itself (particularly with avoiding ooze falling onto the print) and print quality.

[@trendstrategics]

Thank you Chep. Followed your guide and used z offset successfully - first attempt! Awesome

[@sissisammakko]

Actually this helps me with one customer project alot. Dont have to glue them together... Thx!

[@Martunex]

there is also a way to do this without the plugin and it also purges the previous filament, all you have to do is to create a cube that isnt in the path of the print (i usually put it in the bottom left corner) that has the height of what would be the start of the 2nd color (e.g: the red part is 2mm from the bed so this purge cube would be 2mm tall, how wide it is, doesnt matter) if the first color isnt flat like in this case you would need to use a z hop between layers so it wont hit the previous part already printed. But still great video, this is easier for a beginner and its also less of a hassle to set up

[@cybernetix86]

I think it's much more simpler to do a color change in PrusaSlicer. I don't really see the benefit of this technique over the other. You say you can change it when ever you want but depending on the build plate it might not be true if the first part releases itself. To each their own I guess. Is Connor Hellebuyck really your son??!

[@sixcolors4226]

3:30 You can see the corners are warped on the upper and lower right of the first print. It's ever so slightly lifted, but still noticeable.

[@alekseytsaruk3060]

Why not just use the Pause at height script, which is added when installing the Calibration Shapes plugin( for which you already had a video)? Menu->Extension->Post Processing->Modify G-Code : Add a script -> Paused at height : Pause Height 2.0 mm When the print reaches this height, the hotend will move away from the model, it will be possible to replace the filament, push as much as necessary so that the color becomes normal and continue printing by clicking on the encoder. There is also a Filament Change item in the scripts, but I did not use it, there is an automatic retraction before replacing and squeezing after. In theory, it should also work.

[@genau14zeichen]

You didn't watch the video all the way to the end, did you?

[@pnwRC.]

Great video! I can think of a few other ways I might could put this plugin to use, for my 3D printed RC projects. Thanks for sharing!

[@colinfielder6695]

You've done it again Chuck , another great tip. Thank you

[@cy8646]

I just tried this. I got a visible gap and curling in some areas of the first layer of the second print. They're attached to each other for sure, but it doesn't look great. Anyone else had any issues with the first layer?

[@LICCG]

Was so excited I did a quick print on my CR-5 Pro it was awesome but failed on CR6E Max because nozzle homed to center of initial print burnt a hole I need to figure how to avoid that center homing

[@FilamentFriday]

Move the print forward on the bed.

[@LICCG]

@@FilamentFriday I tried and failed can you do a youtube on this? or direct me where i can read how to do this-very much appreciated

[@FilamentFriday]

You failed at moving the first print forward on the bed? I don’t understand. You just move it away from the center in Cura far enough so the nozzle doesn’t hit it.

[@LICCG]

@@FilamentFriday ok let me do a test print and again thank you

[@deanbestall]

Please model in the corner radius though, that's bothering me :D - Great work!

[@xoutgh]

cool as always! by the way, the "iron" option is very suitable for printing both parts of this logo

[@Pef273]

Thanks, that is easier than manually splitting a gcode (that is what I have been doing since none of the gcode pauses work with Anycubic printers)

[@wendyruiz6982]

did this work for you? i also have the same issue with my anycubic

[@sometinghuge2291]

This has given me tones of ideas! Thank you so much.

[@BenjaminVaterlaus]

This seems like a lot more work than just doing the M600 filament change. Can you address why you didn't just use that gcode?

[@FilamentFriday]

@Benjamin Vaterlaus - In case you missed it, it was because I was showing the Z Offset plug-in not M600. Also, FYI, many stock Ender 3 won’t recognize M600 unless their firmware is updated.

[@cygnet1963]

I just found your channel. Great! So helpful I just switched to cura so you have been incredibly helpful! Thanks for the great content!

[@venados65]

I have a BL touch this won’t work. It will hit the print when probing during the second print.

[@FilamentFriday]

Turn off the auto level for 2nd print. It should be close enough.

[@mkegadgets4380]

I been trying to do the same thing for a while. With no success. Now I know what I need, the plug-in, thanks...

[@techex8383]

There should be an option to to keep models from dropping to the build plate. That’s worked for me in the past, this is also a great idea as well!

[@FilamentFriday]

There is that option but I had it turned off. It won’t affect the GCode anyway so doesn’t matter.

[@peterkiss1204]

Looks promising. Some fillet on the corners would have been nice to match the motor's contours.

[@cooperwrks]

Great tip! It worked on my parts. What printer head is that? My ender 3 is different

[@jgarmer]

Used it today worked so much better since the base is forced to be a smooth top for the lettering the quality is vastly improved. Its not trying to build the infill up into the lettering. This can be a headache with fine detail being lost.

[@lilMonroe88]

I having a problem in Cura, I made my design in Tinkercad and put my design on Cura but it wont offset at all. Even if I try to manually pull it up it just falls back down. I'm super new to printing, and I don't know if I have a setting on the prevents it. I installed the offset from the marketplace so it should work... but it wont. I watched this video and did it step by step, I don't understand why it's not working.

[@FilamentFriday]

In Cura preferences, uncheck “Automatically drop models to the build plate”.

[@PowerAirSimulations]

How would you go about doing this if you have the auto leveler from creality installed?

[@RushMyEx]

Perfect love multiprints in a single print

[@barakrl]

Is there a way to do this with ABL on?

[@nairdaboss]

thank my dude. Straight to the point and dont miss a step!

[@maxgajo]

Hi, very nice video. When I change the Z off-set of the text, it doesn't work, stays at zero. I'm using Cura 4.13.1 with the Z off-set plugin. Any suggestion, please? Thanks!

[@bobpaugh6725]

I have a bltouch. Would i still be able to use this plugin?

[@michaelbiri6676]

Why not just add a Pause to the Print at the right Layer Height? As your Bed will Cool down and as you can see at 3:37 you have warping off the bed. You have a high risk of Getting the nozzle ripping the part off.

[@evlsc400]

If your print is curling/curled will the nozzle know not to hit that part of the print or no?

[@FilamentFriday]

Michael Biru - It was more about showing the Z offset plug-in option. Pause at print doesn’t guarantee no warping on first color.

[@michaelmerryman577]

Awesome Might need to modify end code so that the bed stays hot !!! I have glass and no hair spray and they pop as soon as bed hits like 45°!!!

[@clivedackus9427]

Great video Chep. Have never tried this before and works a treat. Only problem I had with the CR-6 was that at the beginning of second print the head goes to the centre of bed and drops down to touch. Therefore first print cannot go in centre otherwise second print is to high. Is there a easy fix for this?

[@FilamentFriday]

You found it. Not sure if there is a way to shut off autolevel on CR-6.

[@brianczeiner5612]

Can you do a video using the filament change plugin on cure 4.8? I got it to work once and can't do it again.

[@scotthancock8225]

so simple, so awesome

[@thumbwarriordx]

Filament change is definitely a feature worth tinkering with bootloaders and Marlin firmware over. Filament break? Nozzle jam? Or the much more rare case you actually want to do what it's named for? Boom. All taken care of, just send the command or put it in your gcode, load, purge, click the button.

[@pigletshow]

Good idea! This way the base layer before the text will be much cleaner.Thanks a lot

[@mikeleestermans83]

To the point instructions👍, but how to use this feature when a bl-touch is installed?

[@Tokolist]

You can move model outside of z-homing point and use previously saved mesh (M420 S instead of G29 after G28)

[@naldrich50]

Is there a way to do this only printing the text inside of a plate that has raised edges. The letters would look like they sit down inside a bowl. For example a plate with 5 mm outside ring with a base set at 2 mm thickness and the text sitting on the 2 mm inside base. Hope this makes sense. Great videos. Thanks

[@x10iman]

This is a great alternative for filament change as sometimes the gantry may move during changing filament.

[@TheLordNoodles]

i do a lot of filament changes and if the gantry moves i just auto home it again, and then resume the print (octoprint).

[@sipmarton]

Exactly, just add a G28 after the filament change. I edited the python file for the pause at height plugin so it does it automatically for me. Works great!

[@CHDA80]

I do wonder though. If you could make a jig for your plate so you could print a bunch of the bases then come back and do the tops, for easy alignment. Also what if the bed cools too much and releases then the base moves. That's a fail then if you can't get it back in the same spot.

My master, I learned a lot thanks to you, I recommend you to the people around me.

[@FilamentFriday]

Thanks

[@avissar]

Great method! gonna try it. I'm using ender3-v3, when I do a filament change, it does auto-home and it poops on the middle of the bed. How can I avoid that?

[@FilamentFriday]

Shift your print if possible

[@ljbeng4475]

This is awesome because the "filament change" feature is soooo buggy in Cura. I get a major Blob unless I modify the Gcode before prining... No way to load the new filament because the extruder motor on my direct drive is still enabled... :( and not to mention, it just doesn't work at all on Ender 5!

[@valerio95valerio]

i found another way: you can just add another stl (i use a little cube sink down in the bed to print just 1 layer) when sliced you will see the print up in the air. so if you print multiple parts only one is needed to touch the bed. i don't know if can actually be usefull but in this way is possible to print an entire model only on supports

[@avexoidavex3577]

I think we can print more then two layers using your way. Thanks a lot!

[@robertusm]

Great explanation of the Z offset! Let's say you were going to print 10 copies of your logo doing this, but wanted to print them all at the same time. How would you position the second file to perfectly match up with the 10 prints of the first file?

[@michaelzarutsky3624]

Try using Cura's Multiply feature. Import your base, multiply but do not modify Cura's (sometimes far from optimal) placements of copies! Slice, print. Change filament etc. Now import the top, multiply (see above...), use Z-offset. As long as your up/down portions have the same shape Cura will multiply them into the same places...

[@wnctrailcam]

Worked like a charm in Cura 5.0 using ironing, Thanks Chep.

[@danilocedeno9765]

Great video and super simple! Just wondering, I have auto bed leveling and use the probe as my z limit switch. I could just get rid of the g29 but the g28 will still try and probe in the center. Any suggestions?

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

looks like the heating-cooling-heating cycle caused it to warp. I would edit the gcode to keep the printer from turning off the heat bed on the first print. Seems like I've printed into thin air without this plug in before.. even complicated stuff that shares the same layer by using z-hop.

[@luisdominguez4307]

Not working for me Im using Cura 5.0 and Z offset is not doing nothing at all. I have an Ender 3 Pro