Two Important Steps For A Successful DIY Radon Mitigation - Find Out! -

[@Vendemeer]

Thank you for posting and sharing DIY radon mitigation information on youtube and your website. I recently purchased an AirThings air quality monitor. After two days of monitoring, our radon level had climbed to 8.5 pCi/L average in our 1st floor living area. Although it's recommended to allow 30 days to determine an accurate average I decided not to waste any more time. I turned to your videos and website for information and decided to install a DIY mitigation system on our basement sump pit. The sump pit is fed by two clay tiles that run around the entire inside perimeter of the basement walls. I spent about $500 for all the materials including ~$150 for the RP145C and ~$100 for the Radon sump dome. There are so many unknowns that I wasn't sure what the results would be, but I was hopeful that levels could be at least halved. I spent about three days off and on installing the system. About 24 hours after turning on the fan the Airthings indicated that radon levels had fallen to .8pCi/L, and after three days the level is currently reported as 0. Needless to say I am very pleased with the results so far. Thanks again for all the helpful information, especially the sump mitigation system info on your website.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

That’s really wonderful to hear! Thank you for sharing your success story.

[@connies.7285]

Very easy to understand, and amazing how much difference there is caulking the cracks in the basement!

[@michlopedia]

Thank you! Will be doing some digging in the radon pipe hole myself too!

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Let me know how it goes 😊

[@bethriedman8454]

Thank you for this well made and easily explained video. I learned a lot. And I especially enjoyed the transition music.

[@ericviele4379]

Fantastic video showing the step-by-step improvement. I’m wondering if you also caulked around the perimeter of the basement walls where they meet the floor?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Hello! So glad the video was helpful. To answer your question, yes we always caulk the perimeter when we can if there is a crack. If it is a bigger crack we will use backer rod first and then caulk it.

[@walleye3330]

At 3:22 on the left hand side what is that large round grey cover? I have that too, but don’t know what it is for.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Hello! I believe it may be a backflow valve for the sewer. In case the main lines in street back up it won't flow into the basement.

[@mikegreen1095]

Good video, I’ve mitigated over thousand homes(250-300) yearly. Wish you would’ve expressed that cold crack caulking is the primary, as in northern states like minnesota and wisc only seperated cracks are addressed not spider cracks and they are endless.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Thank you Mike for your comment and all your hard work fixing homes. Working in those northern states you mentioned, we know that to be true. Focusing on those separated cracks is key. The smaller hairline cracks connected to those larger cracks do need to be caulked. Isolated spider cracks, because they aren’t all the way through the slab, are not necessary to caulk.

[@CodyGiles]

Great video and well produced! If my slab is on top of gravel / crush is it still advisable to dig up as much as I can of it through the suction hole? Will this improve airflow?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

We are so glad the video helped! When we have gravel we will typically dig out at least a bucket so the suction hole has room to pull air. To dig more can always possibly increase air flow and helps when you have a large square footage basement with no drain tile.

[@CodyGiles]

@@healthyairsolutions5950 appreciate it, thank you!

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Happy to help!

[@Nutrafin-3D]

What if the basement is mostly finished, how could you tell if and where there may be a crack?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

In some basements extensive sealing is not possible because of it being finished but caulking what you can, perhaps in a utility room, can still help. In basements where the carpet easily rolls back we may do this to get at more of the cracks. Some basements have a perimeter crack along the edge of the slab that we will pull the carpet back to caulk. This it’s important especially when drain tile is run along the perimeter of the slab. Without sealing you can lose some suction from such a crack.

[@ahcs2001]

Great explanations in the video! Quick question - the 6.8 pCi/L before level - was that peak or average? (and same question for the 1.4pCi/L after results). Thanks again!

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Thank you, we are glad it could help. So both readings were from short term tests showing the average radon readings over 2 to 4 days. Using short term tests is a good way to get an idea at where your radon levels are during any given time of the year, especially during the winter when they are at the highest. A long term test can give an overall view of your average through out the year.

[@ryanmolloy5421]

super helpful. The house we moved in to is 60+ years old. We bought it in October and the levels were just under 4, not enough to warrant mitigation, even though they were well aware they were going to spike in the winter months, which is kind of BS. We ended up having to gut the entire basement and after it was re tested in the winter months our numbers were over 12, consistently. I'm pretty mad about it. There were very large gaps along the edge of the foundtation and several in the floor. It'll be interesting to see how good of suction numbers we can get. All the edge cracks were sealed with cement caulk, as were the floors. I'm hoping for a great result once all is done.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Sorry to hear about your experience, that’s frustrating! We are in Wisconsin so we see just how much radon levels can swing up in the winter time. A long term radon test can give you a good idea of what you are on average being exposed to. That sealing will for sure help with your suction. I hope your mitigation goes smoothly!

[@bbnlabs]

Thanks for a great DIY video... I have a lot of cracks in my basement.. Which sealant do you suggest to repair those gaps before I proceed with Radon pump

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Thanks @Govind Paul, glad it could help! What we use is a silicone and urethane caulk. Here’s links to 2 different brands on our website we use on mitigation jobs: shopradon.com/products/RadonPro-Sealant-by-RadonAway-p145313404 shopradon.com/products/Titebond-Radon-Sealant-p145313441

[@bbnlabs]

@@healthyairsolutions5950 thank you so much for your quick reply... As I am very new to the sealant... I am not sure which one should I order from these 2 for my basement floor crack repair.... Or should I order both and apply one over other...

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

So the Radon Pro sealant is the better quality because it uses urethane. We would recommend using that. You only need to apply a bead and then smooth it out into the crack using a piece of cardboard like you see in the video. Please don’t hesitate if you have any other questions! shopradon.com/products/RadonPro-Sealant-by-RadonAway-p145313404

[@bbnlabs]

@@healthyairsolutions5950 thank you once again... it is so unfortunate that this product is not available in Canada :( Can you please suggest some alternate

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Sorry for the delay! We can’t say which brands would be available in Canada, but if you look for a caulk that has a silicone and urethane combination that would be the one you want.

[@dougmaverick3287]

Could you please post what product you use to seal the cracks in the basement. Thanks.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Hi @dougmaverick3287, here is a link to two different sealants we use and along with backer rod that is often helpful in sealing bigger cracks. shopradon.com/products/Sealants-and-PVC-Cement-c36410015

[@dougmaverick3287]

@@healthyairsolutions5950 thanks and Happy New Year.

[@chipmhandle]

I have expansive clay soil, no draw at all anywhere. 2 pits and removed 25 gallons of clay. No gravel or sand.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

That can be a difficult situation. If you want a free consultation, please fill out a contact form on my website. With the info I’ll be able to better advise on how you can best proceed. Here’s the link: www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/do-it-yourself-radon-mitigation.html

[@larrybrautigam7734]

Have you ever needed to make holes in the foundation perimeter ground for makeup air?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Hi Larry, makeup air is not needed with a radon mitigation. You wouldn’t want to do anything to lessen focused suction under the slab.

[@larrybrautigam7734]

My concern is that drawing from underground only draws up more radon.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

A house naturally draws air up into it due to the stack or chimney effect. Often when we put a test hole in a slab and use our digital manometer we will see positive readings, meaning air is pushing up into the home. But after installation of the fan and sealing the basement those numbers are brought into the negative. This means that the radon that would have naturally been drawn into the home is now being drawn up by the fan and evacuated and safely dispersed above your roof line. The proof is after the installation of your system you do your retest and see what your current radon levels are. No need to worry, this is the most effective way of lowering your radon.

[@wilcoxtactical3716]

How do you know if there is gap between the ground and the slab or is this the way its always done?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Every situation will be different but there is usually settling that occurs under the slab that can help with air movement. This settling often happens along the footings, which is why we often will place our suctions pits along the exterior walls. Even with packed clay, you can often pull a certain amount of air through it. This is not guaranteed tho which is why digging the suction pit out is very important. We have often experienced that digging out even an extra bucket helped us to reach an opening that increased our airflow greatly. Doing some suction tests with smoke can tell you a lot about what you are dealing with under your slab.

[@3dparagon]

One question, other than thew cracks in a basement floor, what about the joints between the floor and the concrete form walls of the basement where air can move also. I have read you are not suppose to seal those. any feedback?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Thanks for your question. If the joints run all the way through then they should be sealed. If not you will be sucking out air from the home and lose the negative pressure the fan creates.

[@3dparagon]

@@healthyairsolutions5950 Thanks for the response, so if we are running 4.7 pCi/L and the basement is approx 1800 SqFt then which fan would you go with?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

@@3dparagon To make a fan recommendation for you I would need to know: Do you have a sump basin with drain tile? What do you have beneath your basement? (ie sand, clay or gravel) If you prefer you can go to our website and fill out our questionnaire and we will email a recommendation. Here is the link: www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/do-it-yourself-radon-mitigation.html

[@braziliancrystals6054]

So I sealed all my cracks with concrete patch but I’m still getting readings of high radon? Is concrete patching supply from Lowe’s not effective in reducing radon?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

So sealing your cracks in the concrete helps only alongside a mitigation system. It helps with increasing the reach of the suction that the radon fan is able to accomplish. Do you have a mitigation system installed?

[@zHumanfactor]

What happens to the suction pit if there is a lot of rain or snow melt, and the water table rises?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

There are times when people will start to hear gurgling coming from their radon pipe in the basement and the reason being there suction pit has gathered water. But in most cases, especially with rain or snow melt the water will dissipate back into the ground. Only in a few cases have we had water that stayed and we then had to move the suction point. In these situations, if your water table rises then you will want to look into getting a sump and tile system installed.

[@zHumanfactor]

Okay, thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Cheers. @@healthyairsolutions5950

[@cashoryan1911]

I started my hole in the corner of a finished slab basement built in the 90's. I'm at least 12" from each wall. So far almost a foot of solid concrete. Maybe in a footing, would you try a new spot or keep going?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

Yes that sounds like you are hitting the footing or a place where excess concrete was dumped. You can start drilling holes away from the spot in 4 or 5 inch increments until your drill bit hits dirt. Then make that the edge of your suction pit.

[@HomewardPro]

Monolithic slab or in footing. Probably monolithic

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

I agree that is a possible. So either way you have to continue moving your holes away from the wall till you find a thinner section of concrete. It is very hard to dig your hole out if the concrete is too thick.

[@larsarildwold5975]

Two quick question: is the amount of vacuum measured in Pa? How want watts is the shop vacuumer you are using?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

No it’s being measured in WC. The shop vac is around a 1000 watts

[@cboutdoorfun9955]

How does a shop vac compare to a radon fan in cfm and performance?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

A shop vac has more power than a radon fan. From the reading we get with our test we can know that the communication is there or not and depending on how far down into the negative the readings reach with the shop vac, we can get a good idea of how the radon fan will do. We will test again once the fan is installed and even if we get a fraction of what the shop vac was reading we feel good that the radon levels will come down sufficiently.

[@AdamZuckermanInnovation]

How do you know how much dirt to remove without the possibility of weakening the adjacent wall?

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

To avoid weakening the wall, avoid going below the footing. Focus more on going along the footing and making your hole wide.

[@robertkapty5053]

How do you dig out a wide hole just working through a 4 inch hole in the concrete

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

We use a variety of tools that give us extra reach, like screwdrivers and my favorite, an old saw blade with a duct tape handle. Once you widen the pit enough you get to a point where you can actually get your arm (depending on the size of your arm) into the pit and reach an arms length in all directions. We also use a shop vac that works well with sand, loose dirt and gravel. We will push the hose into the hole and get good reach that way. Be prepared to clean out clogs in the hose 😅

[@Jthumper]

How about you guys rent out that digital manometer for its full retail price as a deposit there's a lot of us out here that would gladly return it to you and desperately need it. Second question is that Shop-Vac has a lot more suction than these little radon fans what's your thoughts on that? I commented on your other video but we're sitting at 32 when the maximum safe levels eight so I have a lot of work ahead of me

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

@Jthumper Thats a good question! So it being a pretty costly device we don’t really have a system of renting it out, it might be something we should look into. Looking at your other comment tho from our other video, if you have a situation with drain tile you can use a shop vac hose and stuff it into the drain tile in the sump with some bags in the tile to seal it up. Then if you drill a hole along the perimeter on the other side of the basement you can use a smoke pen to see if the tile is there and if you are getting good air movement. Using the shop vac we will see higher readings of air movement than we do with the radon fans but its simply telling us that there is air to move and we can also tell what fan to use by how hard the vacuum is sucking. Often we see good readings after the fan is installed, not as high but enough to know the system has a good chance at working. But you can only know for sure when you retest. Keep in mind to, that even with a reading if 32, if you have drain tile run around the majority of your basement and if you use the correct fan for your situation, that number can drop well below 4. We have seen it happen many times. The key is to always test after you install your mitigation. For more information you can fill out a contact sheet on our website www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/contact-us.html Let us know how the mitigation goes! We wish you the best with it and are here to help if you need it!

[@BrightOutlook]

We bought a $40 digital manometer on Amazon. (Autool brand) I would not recommend this for professional use, but since I'm a DIY'er it is more than good enough for me.

[@healthyairsolutions5950]

That’s nice for giving you an idea of what you are working with. Glad it worked out 👍🏼☺️ Thank you for sharing!