Two Rows to Three Rows

[@banjomark9900]

I’m not even an autoharpist. Your instruction and playing is enthralling. 👏

[@JHHLnet]

You can use the fun trick of rubbing graphite on the strings and pressing the bars with uncut felts (and strumming) so the strings mark the felts exactly for each felt.

[@JHHLnet]

I'm also thinking of putting little screws in on the ends of the bars to more precisely adjust the closeness of the bars to the strings. The tops of the screws can push against craft foam or something more sturdy. The extra pressure might mean it'd need some more new holes & screws in the bar covers to help hold them down. But the felts could be really close and regulated!

[@zinglizh]

I just loved the dog singing along with you! That's a video all on it's own!

[@bonesinthewalls]

Super handy, just refelted my OS 15 chord, converting some chord bars to be more Americana friendly, and this video was very useful for shuffling buttons around to get them all lined up, looking like factory. Great video, thanks so much!

[@davidrohlader3498]

I did this on a March 1976 OSB and moved the assembly away from the fastening end so it can be played lap style on the bottom of the strings and still play on the less harsh sounding normal area.

[@otryma]

Great video, Jo Ann. I remember doing this to an OS ‘harp years ago when I converted it to a key of A diatonic. Eventually, I upgraded to Fladmark bars but they did a good job until then.

[@lindaberg1695]

Thanks for the great how to video Jo Ann, you've made the process very clear and precise! Many thanks! I have to say, it's nice to see Petey serenading at the end! My cat climbs up on the back of my chair and hangs over my right shoulder when I play and purrs like crazy. Yes, everyone's a critic! Great job on this video!!! Love it! ♥ PS: If it hadn't been for all your fantastic videos, I would probably never have had the nerve to buy a 'harp and learn to play!

[@theodoreschluenderfritz6448]

I'm trying to follow your tutorial (thank you for this and all of your tutorials btw! It's very generous of you!) but I want to keep as many felts intact as possible. I assume this means just cutting more of the plastic slides so each bar can be moved to the proper place in the new line up... ? ... or am I missing something?

[@autoharpist]

You cannot re-use the felt. This conversion requires removing ALL the original felt and applying new. If you try to keep some of the felt, it won't match the new and the bars won't function propery.

[@theodoreschluenderfritz6448]

@@autoharpist Thanks for the response! Would the bars not functioning properly be noticeable to a newbie (like myself) or would it just be something more subtle?

[@dustystrings36]

That silly Pete! He loves singing with the autoharp!

[@LeeAnnahsCreations]

Wonderful DIY and precious ending!

[@60mando]

Thanks for your detailed instructions. I can see this mod coming for one of my harps. I need to work in the A and E in there somewhere. I did want to ask, is there a reason for reversing the bars so the chord id’s are now viewed from the opposite side. The chord names are now covered by the hand. And I would really like to see another complete Diatonic conversion. Love the music too. Thanks

[@alpobc1]

I noticed some black/green discolouration on the sides of some of you bars. If they are aluminium, you can use vinegar and 0000 steel wool to clean them, before putting the felt on. The vingar reacts with the aluminium and steel wool, so things can get hot. A plastic scrubber, like brillo pads also work, but the aluminium can get hot and cause plastic residue. I cleaned up an aluminium equipment rack once that had been left outside. It looked brand new when I was done.

[@autoharpist]

The black and green ‘discoloration’ you’re seeing is probably marker residue from where I made cut marks for the felt. The aluminum bars are anodized so they don’t discolor.

[@fartwrangler]

I had never considered doing this, although it does make a certain kind of sense. But instead of cutting the plastic bars, wouldn't it be simpler to just remove the buttons you want to shift, and reglue them in the new positions?

[@autoharpist]

The buttons are attached to the plastic with the equivalent of super glue. Attempts to remove them from the plastic bar insert resulted in damage to both the buttons and the plastic strip.

[@DougKing4416]

I'm following you lead. My bars aren't as pretty. Lengths are slightly off. But I'm going for it. I suppose felt isn't available for less then $2-$3 a foot?

[@autoharpist]

This particular type of chord bar requires 1/4” wide felt. Virtually all autoharp luthiers carry this type of felt, just make sure you specify “OS 15-bar” set when you order. You can save some by buying a full roll rather than pre-cut strips.

[@helenslade1208]

Please can someone tell me how thick the craft foam is? I've been looking for something just like this. Thank you Jo Ann as I am just about to embark on this very project and your solution is very neat. However I use Bryan Bowers three row set up on my OS21 and will probably put my major chords in the middle row so that my two harps are reasonably consistent. Great video.

[@autoharpist]

What I used in that particular instance was the thickest I could find. I don’t remember the exact measurement. Another material works is self-stick foam weatherstripping material you can find at a hardware store. The foam is thicker, but it is less dense and compresses more so it works.

[@helenslade1208]

Ha! That's just what I had already tried experimentally and it seems ok, so I will tidy it up like yours and it will be fine. Thanks for that. I just love finding unusual uses for everyday things!!

[@OldWailer]

Wonderful tutorial! Are there similar charts to make a diatonic setup?

[@autoharpist]

Yes - there are an infinite number of ways to set up an autoharp in a diatonic tuning. My recommendation is to purchase “The Autoharp Owner’s Manual” by the late Mary Lou Orthey. (Check Amazon.). Not only does it contain tuning schedules for both single-key and two-key diatonic setups, there are also a number of articles that cover recommended chords. I have my own preferences of course, but this book is an essential part of my library. I also have blank templates for sale on my website (PDF download) that you can use to experiment with different tunings and setups. Be aware that a diatonic conversion using the existing strings is only possible for the keys of F or C. Any other key will require custom strings or else the autoharp body could crack/split.

[@OldWailer]

Thank you!

[@sabragalloway9828]

Could someone please explain to me why cutting and moving the plastic slides to rearrange to buttons makes it necessary to refelt the autoharp? If the metal bar isnt being cut isnt the chord still the same even if the button is in a different position because the plastic cover is cut and rearranged? I have a new auto harp and I was already to do this to make the fingering easier Until I found out I have to rip-off all the new felts and replace them. Why isn't the g cord still the g cord Even if it's in a different Order and the plastic thing on the top with the button on it has been slid around?

[@autoharpist]

The whole point of making two rows into three is so you can have all the necessary chords in a logical arrangement so your fingering is the same from key to key. The chords that came with your two row set are woefully inadequate. You don’t have all the minors or sevenths you need, and a couple of chords you won’t use at all. ANY TIME you rearrange the chord bars, re-felting is baked in the cake. However, you can keep the chord bars that are already cut for the chords you want to keep (the G chord, for example). But you will have to make sure you move the button on it so that it will fit in the proper row of buttons when you’re done.

[@autoharpist]

Also - never mix felt types on a single bar. The felt is not universally exact as far as measurement and density, so if you felt one bar with half of it original and the other half with new, it’s highly likely that the bar will not damp the strings correctly.

[@sabragalloway9828]

Thankyou! I'm also scared to ruin the new instrument. I might be able work up the courage to refelt the bars you think I won't be using anyway or maybe buy them individually from the autoharp store if they sell them. I've already had to restring the #5 e string after I broke it and it wasn't as awful as I thought it would be but I'm still worried I'll destroy it

[@sabragalloway9828]

Thank you very much for Patiently explaining everything to me. Now that I've downloaded and printed everything out I can see that Not only do the Buttons need to be repositioned but about half the chords (not a couple) Need to be abandoned for more useful ones ,so I've ordered a bunch of felt And After watching the video a few more times I will go for it. Buying them already cut doesn't seem like an option. Now I clearly understand that is not just about having the buttons in an easier position ,it's also having A whole bunch of better chords that don't come with my auto harp. Thank you so much For taking the time out of your day To help

[@DisVietVetUSA]

Good for a rainy day

[@DisVietVetUSA]

I am happy I found you, you are a real inspiration though I am not a beginner, it is helpful to review from time to time. I am Luther and build musical instruments.

[@debrahoffman2128]

Newbie here, small hands, learning to play an old 15-chord Sonata (Korean-made, Chromaharp design) picked up at an Asheville pawn shop last month. Is this same conversion doable on a Chromaharp? Related question: Do you know if replacement bars are available for sale? I'm confident I can make the modification from your fine demo and instructions , but I'm also feeling just a little trepidation over compromising the cosmetic integrity of a vintage, albeit inexpensive, instrument. If I could start with a fresh set of bars, I could tuck the old ones away for safekeeping (or maybe vice versa). 🤔 LOL, once I can move to a nice 21-chord luthier 'harp, maybe I won't even look back! 😂 Still... that Sonata does have a nice voice, across the board. P.S. Petey's backup vocals had my old Swedish Vallhund running into the room and right up to my PC to check it out! She cocked her head and just STARED. 🤣

[@autoharpist]

Hi, Debra. Unfortunately, the 15-bar chord bar sets on Chromaharps are not constructed the same way as the ones made by Oscar Schmidt. If memory serves, the Chromaharp bars are made of a wood core that is wrapped on three sides with aluminum, so it’s not possible to do a three-row conversion like what’s shown in the video. Chord bar sets aren’t interchangeable between OS and Chromaharp either, because the string spacing is slightly different (English vs. metric, respectively). Chord bar sets are not sold separately by Chromaharp or OS, so that isn’t an option. What you might think about is purchasing a set of luthier chord bars from someone like Ken Ellis whippoorwillacoustics.com or Greg Schreiber schreiberautoharps.com . Although it would be a bit of an expense (at ~$15 per bar), luthier bar sets are vastly superior in function to any manufactured bar set and are reasonably easy to install DIY. The bars come with uncut (blank) felt, so you would cut the chords yourself following the instructions in the video. Twenty-one bars would be about $300. But I’d recommend getting 15. You can make a very nice three-and-a-half key chromatic with only 15 bars. Luthier bars look fantastic and the gain in function will make playing vastly easier. Hope this helps!

[@debrahoffman2128]

@@autoharpist We might be onto something! Finding the Chromaharp gently used saved a bundle, and IMHO even the existing strings have some life left in them. Splurging a bit on a set of Chromaharp-compatible luthier chord bars might be the ticket. Would I still need to specify a particular 3-row setup, or does uncut felt give me total free rein? Sounds fun either way. THANK YOU SO MUCH for a prompt and thoughtful reply.

[@marychastain9975]

Can you convert a diatonic to a chromatic

[@autoharpist]

Yes. But you would need a string set that is optimized for chromatic tuning. Using the existing strings, depending upon the tuning, would be risky. You could re-felt the existing bars for the chords you need.

[@marychastain9975]

@@autoharpist Thank you for replying. My husband bought me a vintage 15 cord. I have wanted to learn to play the autoharp for a long time. I was wondering if once I have learned some, about converting it to o 21 cords. I thank you.

[@DougKing4416]

Why cut the foam at the top?

[@autoharpist]

I assume you’re referring to the piece of weatherstripping that I placed underneath the cap of the chord bar holders. The reason that you need to cut slices is because there are channels in the chord bar holders that keep the chord bars in place. The walls of these channels are flush with the underneath side of the cap when the cap is in position. Cutting slices in the weatherstripping where it comes in contact with the channel walls allows the ‘foam’ to protrude into each channel, which helps to lower the action of the bars and further quiet them.

[@DougKing4416]

You are really a real person 😀

[@DougKing4416]

I made two wood replacement covers for the ends of the bars. No way to send photo I suppose 🤨

[@penguinspeaks1969]

Great info!!

[@catherineroth7489]

There are no chord labels on my felt cord bars. Just numbers 1-21.how do I keep from getting the bars mixed up. Do the numbers represent a chord.

[@autoharpist]

It sounds like your autoharp was previously owned and may have been modified by the previous owner. Virtually all 21-chord autoharps will have the chord names printed on the buttons when they come from the factory. The best way to determine the name of the chord on each bar is to push down on the bar, and then pluck each of the strings one by one until you find which notes are open for each bar. For instance, if you push down on one bar and you find that all the C, E and G notes are open, then that bar is a C major chord. A chord bar that has the notes C, E, G and B flat open is a C7. I have another video that addresses 21-chord autoharps: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnerkIagpd16nJI It shows the standard layout of an Oscar Schmidt 21-chord, and how to modify it to play better. The video has links in the description to several PDF documents you can download that go into more detail.

[@kd-npnaz3717]

My keys on the far left side are E flat, D major and F7, rather than E major, A major and D major like yours. Will this method still work on mine? Thanks!!

[@autoharpist]

It doesn’t matter what the bar label says, because every single one of the bars will have all the felt stripped off and replaced with new, uncut felt. No matter what the bar button says, you set up the bar to make the chord you need by cutting the felt. The existing name on the button is irrelevant. You can cover up the label with a new label you make with a label-maker. That’s what I did.

[@kd-npnaz3717]

@@autoharpist Thank you so much!!! I'm excited to make my autoharp more playable for me. I'll let you know how it goes!!

[@reallyoldtom9352]

So what you're sayin' is "don't be afeared" ?

[@autoharpist]

Yep!

[@angelikasmales465]

Thank you so much, been trying to make 3 rows out of 2 row set ups for ages, but I tried to move the buttons, which is impossible. 🎶💜

[@merlynschutterle7242]

I never liked the scratch of the picks. For a sweeter sound, play bare finger like a real harp.. It's a beautiful mellow sound.

[@autoharpist]

Many people play it bare-fingered, and this is good for gentle strumming. But playing this way can only be heard well by the player and isn’t well-suited for playing with others. When picking melody bare-fingered, precision suffers greatly because the fingertips cannot fit in between the strings adequately. The autoharp is unrelated to a so-called ‘real’ harp, whose strings are spaced much farther apart from each other and allow an actual “grab and pull” from the fingertips to isolate melody notes. The autoharp is a chorded zither, with strings placed much closer together and was not designed to be played bare-fingered due to its tight string spacing, small size and even smaller volume.

[@merlynschutterle7242]

@@autoharpist I don't have any trouble with volume in small groups. If it is a large group, most players get amplified even some guitar players. If you get overpowered, that is because the others are playing too loud.

[@henkneijer77]

really cute and a dog almost sings better than you I live in Austria and these car harps are not available here, which is a pity because I am also an estate and would like one made entirely of wood love greetings

[@DougKing4416]

Only lost one screw!

[@DougKing4416]

Still looking for it. ACE hardware?

[@DougKing4416]

ACE Hardware helped. Couldn't do springs though.