Professional Life Hack for Truly Jaw-dropping CNC/CAM Guitars

[@ericguillot6402]

I run a 5x10 cnc in a cabinet shop, and I use basically the same z zero setup. I zero to my spoilboard, bring it 5 thousand up, zero out, raise my material thickness. It's worked wonders for our vacuum table setup for sheet goods. Not cutting .005" into the spoilboard every sheet quadruples the amount I can cut before needing to resurface. Using this setup I almost never have parts shift around and ruined.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

It's always good to keep the spoilboard in good condition, sometimes the stock is just a tiny bit of from what you expect, and this method does the trick.

[@AmerikkkaGuitars]

Wow, thanks for sharing pro tips. Was discouraged trying to come up with indexing pins. Using bandsaw also saves on buying worn out router bits. Definitely going to try this method on next build.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

I think it's a good solution, many disagree, try both ways and find what works for you.

[@wookiXL]

As a pro 5axis operator (on a 6x2meter) i never had problems with slot milling as long as you follow some rules. Your advice for improvement are very good, thx...

[@TwoCherriesIns]

At time it is necessary, it's not as if I don't ever use it, I just like to think out all the details.

[@machine.grundberg]

Thanks for sharing your setup process. I am currently in the second year of machining school at the local tech college and deep into this type of setups on open bed CNC mills. Lots of details to keep track of but essential knowledge for machining. I really want to buy a cnc router for making some guitars once i have graduated and have some extra money. love your channel! cheers

[@TwoCherriesIns]

That's awesome, thanks for watching and keep up the work at school, make plans, and get that CNC.

[@ClinToneCust23]

Great news! I finally got my first CNC. Ive seen your methods and they make sense to me.. When routing a body on the router table its very important to cut as little material as possible to avoid chip out and kick back.. Thats the entire reason i wanted a CNC.. well that and the ability to do some tiny inlay.. and a quicker method of neck profiling.. okay lots of reasons.. Anyways thanks for the amazing tips and inspiration! Ill be honest half of what you say in describing your methods are spanish to me but im willing to put in the effort and learn this.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

That's great, feel free to ask a question if you get stuck.

[@alanstclair8040]

Surely slot milling a couple of mm off your finish line, then a final pass on the line would achieve the same result as your pre cutting method? Sand off the tabs, or route them off as part of the edge finish process?

[@TwoCherriesIns]

Sure, takes more time, and the machine will also run slower for the full engagement pass, and you will have to deal with cleaning up the tabs. This provides a quick way to keep things moving, with less cleanup work later.

[@braylonallen5276]

This is a great theory where would a beginner start to study these methods

[@TwoCherriesIns]

I generally study at the school of hard knocks, so I'm not the best guy to ask. I would say to just get into it, and solve problems as they come, each mistake is an opportunity to learn a valuable lesson.

[@bradutube]

I realize there’s a certain stigma against slot milling but I don’t really understand why. I’ve cut a few hundred CNC’d guitar bodies and used slot milling every time. So far not a single issue not even one time. Is the slot paranoia rooted in metal fabrication?

[@TwoCherriesIns]

If it works for you then great! as a practice in my shop it makes the work more difficult.

[@bradutube]

Ok Everyone has their process based on the tools and skill set but it looks like you’re taking the long road just to avoid slot milling. Difficulty is subjective but time is time. I promise I’m not criticizing but I don’t see the need for the extra steps. Does it save sanding time if it adds prep time? I’m sure you know Fusion is a tool that keeps on giving as we learn. I’ve only been using it for about 6 years and I still enjoy learning from it. The “finish only at final depth” feature might be an asset per this particular conversation. 👍

[@TwoCherriesIns]

@@bradutube I understand that it can be tough to validate your assumptions and provide justifications for your reasoning. However, that is exactly what this process is all about. It's an opportunity to test your assumptions and ensure that they hold up under scrutiny. While it may take more time and effort, the knowledge and insights you gain from this process are worthwhile.

[@LoudandProudBSE]

You could just slot offset .25" and then run a finish pass. No way your faster marking those then manually cutting vs the 5 extra minutes for a roughing offset pass

[@ghijkmnop]

Are the plywood blanks for testing, or are you capping them for a low-cost body option?

[@TwoCherriesIns]

These are all for the @design theory channel. The ply is for testing I believe, and there is some relay nice stock for the rest.

[@ronc1231]

I have learned the the depth of cut and rate of feed speeds in my software are to great for the hardwoods I frequently used. I would guess rock maple is harder than some aluminum. I can do aluminum on my desktop cnc, but slow down the rate of feed and maybe. 005" cut depth. I have created much more cleanup work going fast, broken bits, even loosened critical parts on the machine. When I slowed down the parts were instantly better. If it's something you care about, speed isn't your friend. If you need more product output consider adding machines and running proven files on them.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

I run CAM jobs in tool steel all the way through to spruce. What I have found is that wood is very forgiving when it comes to feeds and speeds. While you can get away with a variety of configurations, dialing in the feeds and speeds like you have to on harder-to-mill materials is still worthwhile.

[@SoleilCustomGuitars]

Is there a specific reason for a straight flute bit? I would love to know the pros and cons. Thanks!

[@TwoCherriesIns]

Well is about a quarter the cost. You will get a better finish with a more expensive bit, for me its not worth the price.

[@_trzn_]

Nice video. What are the dimensions of the router bit you used for the edge milling? thx.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

I typically use this 1/2" x 3" tool.

[@_trzn_]

@@TwoCherriesIns thx.

[@_trzn_]

I just watched the video again, and keep getting more out of it. In terms of how you secure the material to the cnc bed, what sort of glue / hardner is that and is that regular masking tape? Also, in terms of setting the z axis zero, are you adjusting for the height of the tape? thx.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

@@_trzn_ it's starboard CA and accelerator, there is a discount code in many of my videos descriptions. It's just standard masking tape. And yes I do account for the thickness of the tape, usually about .030" gives me an onion skin and avoids any engagement with the spoil board.

[@Sc3neShit]

Can you build an 8-string guitar?

[@TwoCherriesIns]

7 or 9 sure, 8 I don't think it's possible...

[@eschmalzy]

Why not run a full depth pass ? No water marks and less wear on the bit by using the full cut length. You would cut the machine time 2/3 … ramp in on X,Y one cut and a finish pass. The strategy you are using is for slot milling but you removed the waste… full length of cut is the best way to save time and your bit life. This is coming from a machinist.

[@TwoCherriesIns]

Ahh, well I hate to tell you this but it doesn't work that way and pretty obvious why. What you are talking about is called HSM, and it's great for production, but the feeds and speeds have to be perfect.

[@eschmalzy]

@@TwoCherriesIns if you say so

[@spoke4915]

No idea what your talking about. Machine setup is just that a setup process, which from the looks of it you have not figured out. Sure your top surface will be exact, but once you flip that body it is no longer align correctly. Why are you the only person who does not use spiral router bits. They are cheap reduce tear out and have a lower load on the machine. After 40 years of hand building guitars I finally moved to a CNC and I can understand your reluctance to use the WCS and pins. Auston Shaner has some very goo videos on CAM setup. It will save you many hours of unnecessary alignment..

[@TwoCherriesIns]

Well your entitled to you opinions, as it where, It's pretty obvious that I disagree with them.

[@BADGERCO]

Батенька, это какая-то наркомания)) Имея чпу, вырезать сперва на ленточке))

[@TwoCherriesIns]

I'm not sure how to respond.