Tying the Michoacán Friction Hitch

The Michoacán Friction Hitch is my favorite all-around friction hitch. It's used in the JRB Tree Climbing system and is useful in a variety of applications including an adjustable tether or tree climbing in DdRT / DRT / MRS / SRS / SRT systems as well.
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer

[@ralphwesser8795]

Up until this video, I’ve been using the distal hitch on my saddle tether. For whatever reason I find this hitch easier to remember. Thanks for a clear demo.

[@jrbtc]

I also went from Distel to Michoacan. But if you have a mechanical failure of your footing, platform or stick or whatever, you don't want to be on a friction hitch that you can't break under load. I have moved on and now use either the compact JRB Ascender v3 or Longhorn Agile Hitch. I have vids on both.

[@ralphwesser8795]

@@jrbtc Yes, I’m experimenting with single stick saddle climbing, and started with a mechanical descender (Sterling F4). However, in using I don’t like how it clamps down on the rope when rappelling, especially if you slip faster than you intended and the stop the descent. I feel that can damage the rope, plus there’s too much metal clanking around. Therefore, I’m going to try your JRB hitch along with a figure 8 I already have from my climbing days, thinking that will be easier on the rope, and less metal clanking up until I rappel. Thanks again

[@jrbtc]

@@ralphwesser8795 I have several figure 8s but I don't like using anything i can drop. I can't drop the carabiner that's on my bridge and with the munter, that's all i need. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaatf6yNia2FrM0

[@ralphwesser8795]

@@jrbtc Thanks, I’ll give that a try.

[@eliosuarez723]

Super clear and didactic video. Kudos to you.

[@bowhuntznj]

John, this is a great video on trying an excellent friction hitch, very clear and concise! Friction hitches that hold tight and break free easily are a joy to use. I wish that more companies would come out with double eye splice cords for 8mm ropes. Is the cord you used from sterling readily available? Again thanks for a great video!

[@jrbtc]

Currently, you can find a 7mm VT Prussik (eye to eye) from Bluewater Ropes. The cords I used in the video were just for demonstration and optimal color contrast. Is always the responsibility of the climber to ensure that the cord and the rope that they have selected are appropriate for the application.

[@kennyking6325]

Hello Friends, Great video, thank you for doing the wet test also! Did you know the schwabich friction knot can be tied with a single loop? What friction knot do you feel breaks loose the easiest when set with say 500ish lbs. thank you

[@jrbtc]

I would like to see an illustration of how the Schwabisch can be tied with a Prusik loop. Sure, we can use it for a Prusik, Klemheist, Autoblock, Hedden and Bachmann... but as I understand things, a Schwabisch is tied with an eye to eye, not a loop. As for the easiest friction hitch to break under load, either the Double Michoacan or the 523 JRB Ascender. I have vids on both.

[@honestjoe1408]

Another excellent video. Do you prefer this over the schwabisch for any specific reason?

[@jrbtc]

I just retested Michoacán vs Shwabish and came up with same results as I recalled: Shwabish jams more after loading making it harder to advance during ascent. Also, it's more difficult to break under load, in order to start the rappel.

[@TreeGenie]

You can finish it like a vt or xt it back with 8mm and it runs really smooth with 3 wraps on 1/2 inch rope seems like it holds aswell but breaks underload very smooth for a swing landing idk if its legal or regulation but it shortens the sitback and release

[@jrbtc]

With those diameters, I assume you're using an MRS/DRT setup for an arborist application. If so, my bet is you know exactly what you're talking about and I will need to play with that. But most of my audience are not MRS climbers. Ya see, 2 years ago, the Michoacán was my favorite hitch, but i have been working on a Doubled Stationary Rope method that I call the JRB Climbing Method for saddle hunters. And an SRT method where ya climb with just friction hitches. SRT on a friction hitch will only work with something that moves easily and breaks under load. My 523 JRB Ascender Hitch is all I use now. Meech is not in its league. Put out a new video just today. It works great in a hitch climber MRS system too, but I wouldn't wanna tie it every climb... i leave it on the line. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXecoHp-hqmceKM

[@matthewpolo227]

I'VE NEVER SEEN THAT HUNTERS BEND BEFORE AND TRYIING TO CONTEMPLATE HOW TO USE IT IN THAT CONFIGURATION..SEEMS LIKE IT COULD BE USEFUL JUST NOT SURE YET HOW..CAN YOU SHARE HOW YOU'VE CLIMBED WITH IT ? AND HOW LONG IS THAT CHORD NEEDED TO TIE THE MICH AND HUNTERS BEND--THANKS🌲

[@dragan3290]

Hi. I find the 9 mm dynamic cord on 11 mm static holds like mad and no constant dressing. With 7 mm static cord, it needs to be constantly tightened. But then again with 5 mm static cord rated at over 5 KN. It also works really nice, with no slippage or constant redressing. I'm glad I came across your video. I was told the static cord should be 7 mm for 10 mm static rope? As you showed the thinner cord holds perfect. 5 kn static cord on this type of knot should be ok? I'm assuming tho? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia just subbed.nice. cheers from Australia.🙂👍👍👍

[@jrbtc]

First, cheers to you from down under; I still wear my Akubra I bought there in '99! Ok, There is a general rule that 70-75% is a good ratio of cord to rope diameter is good for friction hitches, some say 60-80%. However, there are variations for some hitches, and a general observation that very flexible cords do work with larger cords where rigid cords do not. 9 on 11 is an 82% ratio. I have also had good hold with a flexible 7 on 8, an 87% ratio. 7 on 11 is a 64% ratio, on the low side, but feasible in my tests. If yours slips, first try adding an additional wrap/turn. 5 on 11 is only 45% and not ideal. A 5kn / 5mm cord is on the light side. Specifically: I would not recommend your full body weight on a hitch with 5kn cord strength. I have used them on one side of a double rope system such as MRS or the JRB System. Consider the Double Michoacán I describe in the other video. Also be aware that unless you're using eye to eye prusik cords, a bend or knot is weaker than the cord itself.

[@dragan3290]

@@jrbtc thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad you like the Akubra hat. They are pretty comfy too. Cheers, and thank you.

[@oddjob66]

Thanks for sharing. I’m just beginning to research different friction hitches during this, my 2nd season of saddle hunting. Is there a reason you have such a long eye-to-eye length? I’ve read that generally most friction hitches are more secure with shorter tail ends... I attended a recent Tethrd Teach n’ Train and did NOT like how the Kong Duck works compared to a Ropeman but would like to transition away from 11 mm lines & mechanical systems if possible.

[@jrbtc]

Arborists use eye to eye cords for creating "Hitch Climber Pulley" MRS systems where a pulley serves as a progress capture or tending device. And most eye to eye cords are sold at an appropriate length for it. This one is a 7mm from Blue Water Ropes and comes in a 33in length, longer than most. I have some climbers who prefer to use the JRB Climbing Method (see playlist here on the channel) with an eye to eye instead of a loop closed with a bend. And for those applications, which tends to be on smaller-diameter ropes, this length works quite well. In that application, we are manually tending our hitches and the additional length gives our hands some space for placement as we climb.

[@oddjob66]

@@jrbtc does anyone manufacture eye-to-eye cords in the thinner cords like PowerCord? A sewn eye give me some mental “peace of mind”not having to put my life at risk with my novice knot tying. That’s why until now I’ve only used the prusik cords provided with my various lines from Tethrd. I’d really like to try 8mm lines but I can’t find any suitable commercial eye-to-eye options in the correct diameter.

[@jeffwshann]

It’s my understanding that a VT has a lot of play when too long but not a problem with most other friction hitches.

[@FerridayFieldHand]

Any considerations to using this for 1-sticking descent instead of others like MR Safeguard or Figure 8? Is there a need for secondary like an autoblock? Thanks!

[@jrbtc]

My preference for a rappel is a munter friction hitch with a standard friction hitch as the backup mechanism. There are multiple videos on my channel and which you can see me engage this combination. You also should look at this as an alternative. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGncXquibJimg7c

[@verticalfeel]

Hi John, I'm so glad for your work, i love to see your videos! Have a question; if you got to use a second line with some kind of fall arrest" hitch; do you think the Mich could work well for that? I mean, its so smooth in the rope but a the same time it blocks very well Thanks 👍👍

[@jrbtc]

Thanks for your comment & question. According to everything I am aware of, friction hitches are not supposed to be part of fall arrest systems. Nor are static ropes. But hang on... the fall arrest harnesses we traditionally buy for treestands come with a Prusik... and I have seen drop tests of saddles with em too. So let me make an assumption that we are discussing a very short fall... a foot or so. I have done some informal testing and my results were that the friction hitches like the Michoacán and the others which move so freely in ascent are the ones more likely to slide. And so my pick would be the Hedden Knot. It bites hard like a Prusik. If you're talking about a fall of more than a foot, well that sounds like an application for dynamic rope... and if I had to bet what would hold... my bet is on the Hedden, perhaps with an extra wrap, 4 instead of 3. See my video on the Hedden.

[@verticalfeel]

​@@jrbtc oh yes I'm taking about a safe line and a short fall I climb recreational and I'll buy some device for a second line, .. maybe a ASAP or something like this However, I guess I'll use some of those options you say, while I wait for my purchase. I got to test them in my practices/ I believe in the home made systems 🌿 So so thank you John ✨✨ Very nice person 👍👍

[@verticalfeel]

I've just try the hedden knot , and man it's amazing, with 4 wraps and my pulley i've got an excellent back up , easy and strong grab Thank you 👏👏

[@brandont7407]

What length do you cut your cord at to tie this with enough to do the hunters bend?

[@jrbtc]

It depends how long of a loop you're creating, and that will be affected by the length of your Bridge. On 8mm rope, using 6mm cord, the smallest length you can use is 36in. That makes a loop that's only a few inches long. If you have a short bridge and you need that to be a foot longer, then you would need 5 feet of cord.

[@PennNative]

I have 2 questions for you. When you make the hunters knot. What is the recommended stick out of the tag ends? If I bind down on the knot and plan to keep it there for the season, say on my tether. I don’t know if I like that leftover sticking out horizontally. My second question, when you tie the hunter knot. Should it always be oriented in the vertical section of the loop? Or can it be and the bottom? Is it a bad idea to have my carabiner against the knot, if it’s at the bottom, say at the bottom of the loop. I have never heard anyone mention this is any videos. I assume it’s best to have it up on the vertical portion of the loop as opposed to being at the bottom? Thanks

[@jrbtc]

1. A good rule of thumb for most knots is that longer tails are always better than short ones, simply because they provide greater security and flexibility in the event we wanted more length. However the minimum tail should be about 10x the diameter. And so if you are tying with 8 mm cord, 80mm equates to about 3in of tail. If you don't want the tail horizontal, consider a double/triple fisherman's, or sliding versions of them. They consume more cord though. 2. The bend should not be at the bottom. I believe you would like a sliding triple fisherman's. I will try to do a video on it for ya.

[@PennNative]

@@jrbtc Thank you for the detailed reply. I will be looking forward to that. You have a good channel going. And appreciate the content. You do a wonderful job slowing down and walking us through the steps. There are some like myself who want to get away from mechanical parts. That knot really sides well and appears to be a solid option for a lineman’s rope or a tether. As you know the higher you can get the knot up and away from you. The more length you will have in your bridge. That makes a saddle more comfortable in the hips. But the lower you have the tether for a leaner, the more comfortable it is. So you have to find a good median in knot size for a friction knot, bridge length and tether height. Thanks

[@robertbrown9237]

👍🇺🇸

[@michaellaura1231]

What friction hitch do you recommend to use above a figure 8? What releases by hand easily with your weight on it but still holds well if you let it go? Saddle hunting repel. Thanks.

[@jrbtc]

My favorite knots are on this page. The Longhorn Agile Hitch or 523 JRB Ascender are my favorites and are breakable under load for every combination I use. jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/favorite-knots/

[@BriarJumper]

What brands of hitch cords are appropriate for 8mm Oplux? The Sterling 6mm TRC is not readily available in 6' +/- lengths. Can the hollow core cords like the Beal Jammy and the Sterling hollow block be used appropriately for the Michoacan in ascent or rapelling as an above the Munter backup? Can you also use the bluewater tubular webbing as a munter backup and if so what hitch would work best? I want to place the backup above the munter which is connected to my belay loop. Thanks for your videos. I'm wanting to use your JRB hitch for my tether after I get more time practicing with it.

[@jrbtc]

There are many viable hitch cords in the 6mm range besides TRC. For example, I have also used Bluewater Titan 5.5mm. It's a bit stiffer. There's an active discussion on this topic in the Facebook group (same name as the channel). Some are even using 7mm standard Sterling cord with a 6 coil Michoacán on 8mm Oplux.

[@jrbtc]

Regarding tubular webbing as a backup, although I am not certain exactly what you're proposing, i have successfully used it in a Bachmann friction hitch. However, its not breakable under load and not something to be used as a rappel device, and so i don't recommend it in my system currently.

[@BriarJumper]

@@jrbtc I ask because I have a lot of climbing rated tubular webbing I used for bridges and aiders. I have seen one other video on repelling use webbing in a hitch as a safety backup, on the descending line, above an ATC or a munter or other rappelling device. It's hard to find out what hitches work well with tubular webbing. I kinda think that tubular webbing may work on all sizes of lines (8-12 mm). Probably only certain hitches are recommended. I can see the webbing get all tangled up easier than hitch cord...

[@toddw9518]

Hi John, could a handle be incorporated into the Mich? I am currently using it for all my needs, 2tc, DSRT, SRT.

[@jrbtc]

Sorry, but I didn't have much luck with that experiment.

[@jrbtc]

The Michoacán used to be my favorite friction hitch. Now I rarely use it. My favorite knots are listed here: jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/favorite-knots/

[@IRONHQ]

Is a bowline knot good for making an eye to eye? I’ve had problems with the eyes cinching down on the carabiner two much when I make one with the double fisherman’s

[@jrbtc]

Although I love the Bowline for some applications, and have never had one fail, there have been instances of failures and for that reason, it's not regarded as appropriate for that application. What is commonly called a Double Fisherman's is actually a Poachers Knot and it is the standard for that application. When ya need to get it off, twist it just enough so you can slide it off the end of the carabiner and then it can be collapsed.

[@IRONHQ]

@@jrbtc I use a running bowline as a tether to the tree I rappel on. Is this an appropriate use of the running bowline? I have a stopper knot as well

[@jrbtc]

@IRONHQ I could find 100 arborists who say it's fine. And I could find 100 from other disciplines who say it's not. The integrity of a Bowline is going to be affected by the stiffness of the rope and how hard you set it. My answer is that it's best to play it safe and use something more secure. I have a video on the Figure 8 end loop. Use that.

[@ericbrabham3640]

I have been practicing tying and using your 523. What if any benefits does the Michoacan have over the 523. I am using 8mm Oplux and 6mm Stering.

[@jrbtc]

I was using the Michoacan before I discovered the 523 jrb ascender. The 523 outperforms it in every Dimension. It's just a little bit more difficult to tie the 523

[@jrbtc]

jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/favorite-knots/

[@ericbrabham3640]

Thanks. I used a ropeman last season but making the switch to the 523. Have one tied in front me right now and love how smooth it functions. I am also leery of mechanical devices and my misplacement of them.@@jrbtc

[@davidnicholson6859]

Could use a double sisherman opposed to eye to eye

[@jrbtc]

I did mention at 1:10 in the video that it can be terminated with a pair of knots. It was intentional that I didn't mention the double fisherman's knot because it's the most commonly mistaken knot in climbing. Despite what we all might have been told, the double fisherman's knot is a Bend. And what so many call a Double Fisherman's knot is actually a Poachers Knot. Google those terms and you will see what I mean.

[@Simon-80]

Why i can Not take n blakes hitch?

[@jrbtc]

Your question is not clear. If you're asking about Blake's hitch, I would agree its a fantastic friction hitch, but it's tied with a rope of the same diameter rather than hitch cord. This video is about a different hitch, tied with a smaller diameter cord. If you are an old school DRT climber on Blake's, that's fine. But if you want to build a system with a hitch climber pulley for example, a Michoacán is a great hitch and a Blake's would not be. Good luck

[@DrewDiaz]

Again, well done. And stop with the electricians’ tape whipping.. dip the ends in latex poly.

[@jrbtc]

Thx. I just bought some Yale Beeline at the local arborist supply store. They recommend 2 pieces of electric tape then cut between em, then dip in rope whipping. I just bought some but wasn't aware of the polyurethane method.

[@DrewDiaz]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/emqldKmZpNisrdk

[@davidnicholson6859]

Also not a ideal friction hitch if you work with a ton of spruce the sap is a real showstopper

[@jrbtc]

Sap is definitely problem for all rope systems but much less so for a stationary rope system compared to a moving rope system. Are you saying that the choice of a friction hitch varies with the type of tree? Or that some hitches have a different performance on sap than others?

[@JoshTraub-te1ri]

the comparison to a Blake's hitch does not seem entirely correct. when tying the Blake's the end is passed in front of the tail and behind the standing rope...

[@jrbtc]

This video shows the Meech tied by starting with laying the cord behind the rope rather than in front of it. That's not the most popular way and everything will be backwards from that point onwards.

[@XxtwichedxX]

Hitch cord is too long. Long legs= slack re-enters the wraps= won't catch. The knot opens to tend upward, long legs get sucked backed into the wraps and it just loosens the whole shabang.

[@jrbtc]

Appreciate your input Rob. The purpose of this video is to explain how to tie the meech. What happens below the friction hitch can vary greatly. The most typical application is when an MRS climber ties it with an eye to eye in a hitch climber setup, which might be your point of reference with your comment. But my audience doesn't climb that way so I intentionally didn't show a pulley or hitch climbing rig here. In the JRB Tree Climbing Method (a non arborist method described on this channel), we use no devices, no metal on metal, no pulleys, not SRT and not MRS, and don't tie any knots at the climbing site. We rig the rope over the crotch and clip into the pretied hitches and simultaneously tend TWO friction hitches manually, one with either hand in a single movement. If we don't have a nice long Loop bottom, we won't be able to get our hands together properly for the ascending move. And the presence of our hand in that position ensures that the failure mode you described could never occur. Lastly, in my experience, the meech has a tendency to jam and get tighter, not loosen as we climb. Be aware that my climbers are typically on smaller diameters... 6mm cord on 8mm rope is typical. The bigger Arborist diameters are not as likely to jam as much.

[@masonstansberry2625]

Add a wrap

[@mikewarner2742]

Wish you could get your hands outta the way to see better!!

[@sabresys45]

Might want to learn how to properly pronounce your favorite knot lol

[@jrbtc]

Ha! Actually, the arbs i know say it like i say it... where the A is basically lost... but i just found this, lol. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5vNgGh_ZamoZpI

[@sabresys45]

@@jrbtc Michoacan is a beautiful state with some lovely towns (Morelia)and amazing food, but there is a lot of drug trafficking.

[@chocrow]

Me-cho-wa-kahn